Saturday 28 February 2015

February Indie Pattern Update!


There has as always been a lot going on in the world of indie sewing pattern design this month. I have spotted in particular lots of calls for pattern testers on individual pattern company blogs so if that's something you've been interested in doing keep your eyes peeled! I haven't listed them here as the deadlines to apply tend to be super speedy and have all passed by the date of publishing this!

New Pattern Companies/First Releases


  • The very first pattern from Sewing Avenue is the Camellia Top and the even better news is that it's completely free to download! It's a simple shape with just two pattern pieces which Sarah is going to be showing you how to manipulate to create a wide variety of top designs!


New Patterns

  • Heather Lou from Closet Case Files continues to release contemporary and chic designs which fill holes in our pattern collections with her latest offering - the Carolyn Pyjamas. I'm not usually one for wearing a traditional full PJ set to bed but now I'm dreaming about making a silk pair! It has an extra smaller size than her other patterns too.
  • Abby from Blue Ginger Doll released a whole collection of four PDF patterns which mix and match to create a selection of beautiful outfits. The range includes the April Skirt, Anne Top, Abby Singlet and Alicia Shorts.
  • The latest By Hand London dress pattern is currently available on presale at 15% off! It's called the Sophia Dress and features unusual angled darts on both the skirt and bodice as well as options for a fitted skirt and a flared skirt with godets which I can't wait to try out!
  • The Cowl Neck Dress is the new PDF pattern from Sew Over It. As with all their patterns it looks to be a great wardrobe staple as well as being super speedy to sew! I think you could make a whole variety of dresses from it depending on fabric choice.
  • Jennifer Lauren released the Felicity Dress which I can't wait to sew in breezy cotton for summer! The bodice is shaped with gathering around the neckline and there are options for a gathered or three quarter circle skirt.
  • The latest pattern from Sew Caroline is the Downtown Tunic. It has a relaxed fit and features either a peplum or button front skirt to be made in contrasting fabric.
  • The Bellevue Top is the most recent release from Straight Stitch Designs. It's a pattern designed for a mixture of knit and woven fabrics which is really interesting and has options for a facing or band finishing along with differing sleeve lengths.
  • Waffle Patterns have just released the Marmalade Gathered Jacket. I really like the combination of design elements in this one; it's got a lovely sporty feel. Plus it's 20% off until 6th March!
  • UPDATE! Lindsay from Design by Lindsay released a FREE pattern for a faux fur jacket. It's a simple boxy shape which looks like it would be a fun project if you fancy something different. She's got some great tips for sewing faux fur too!

Sew-alongs


Upcoming!

  • Scandinavian pattern company Named are releasing their Spring collection of 12 new patterns tomorrow (March 1st)! I always love that they release a whole collection at once and am so excited to see what they have come up with this time! Five of the designs will be available in an expanded size range; up to a UK 22/US 18.
  • There's a new pattern coming soon from Deer and Doe which Eleonore has been working really hard on. We know it's called Cardamome but I haven't spotted any other clues as to what type of garment it might be!
  • Marilla Walker is developing a pattern for a classic a-line denim skirt which is going to come with a maxi length option - so wonderfully nineties! Keep an eye out on her Instagram for more sneaky peaks.
  • Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic have got a couple of patterns coming our way in the next few days. They're called the Pinot Pants and the Cabernet Cardigan; love the boozy naming!
  • The next pattern from Itch to Stitch is going to be the Emily Culottes which you can get a full run down on by following the link. After sewing up the Marbella Dress I'm really keen to try another of Kennis' patterns; the instructions were brilliant!

Other Exciting News

  • Elisa from Salme Patterns revealed her very first paper patterns! Seven designs from her gorgeous collection of classic styles are now available to buy in paper as well as PDF form.
  • By Hand London re-released their Charlotte Skirt pattern as a PDF with updated instructions. I've made a fair few of this dream of a pencil skirt and seeing it pop up in my feed again has reminded me to try out a version with the ruffle hem
  • Paprika Patterns re-released their Jade Skirt PDF pattern. It now has an improved design and larger size range so if you were tempted before now is the time to buy!

As per usual I feel like there's a lot I've missed (particularly in the non-existent sew-along section this month!) so feel free to point out any other gossip you've heard of in the comments and I'll be sure to add it in! To wrap this up here's some of your inspiring completed projects I've spotted this month:


  • Emmie's tropical Anna Dress has got me desperate for summer; partly for the sunshine and partly so that I can sew some gorgeous things like this! Doesn't that print look stunning on her?
  • I was eagerly following Leisa 's progress with her lace Archer Shirt and my jaw dropped when I saw the completed garment. Sewing a garment with so many pieces and tricky elements in a fabric as tricky as lace AND doing it so beautifully deserves a round of applause!
  • I don't usually include designer's own versions of their patterns here but I'm completely in love with Pauline Alice's biker jacket variation of her Quart Coat. That fabric! I'm making one.
  • Rachel's printed playsuit version of the Holly Jumpsuit is so fun and comfortable looking. I really got into the practicality of playsuits last summer and will be trying out this pattern combo soon I think!
  • Kirsten's monochrome silk/cotton Carolyn Pyjamas are what is seriously tempting me to buy this pattern! Loving the piping and the monogrammed pocket!

Sunday 22 February 2015

A Cotton Laurel Blouse for my Mum

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns

Today I've got a completed garment to share from last year which for once isn't for me to wear! When I made my polka dot blouse version of Colette Pattern's Laurel back in June last year my Mum spotted it and decided she quite liked the simple lines of it for herself which I wasn't surprised about as I had thought it was just her sort of top! I really love the proportions of it and particularly the shape of the neckline and length of the sleeves. A few weeks later she popped in to see me when I was taking part in the John Lewis Sewing Bee and while she was in the store chose fabric for her own version. It's a quilting weight cotton from the Heritage Collection they released for their 100 year anniversary and I only needed just over a metre even with cutting the pieces to line up the coloured stripes. I don't usually sew with this sort of cotton as I prefer to wear drapier fashion fabrics so it was a bit of a treat for me to work with a fabric which is so straightforward to cut, sew and press!


Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns


The main reason I don't usually sew garments for other people is because I am nervous about achieving a good fit, particularly when that person isn't around to try it on throughout the construction process. However, with this I felt fairly confident as my Mum is a very similar size, shape and height to me and tried on my top for me! It was a good fit so I cut the same size 2 for her; the only issue she had was the same as mine which was feeling a bit restricted above the bust. (I made this before my Black Laurel Dress and so before I discovered the strange difference in the drafting of the armholes!) I made the adjustment I was planning on doing for my next version for myself to add a bit of width at this point. I simply taped a scrap of paper behind this part of the pattern piece and drew in a new curve at the point where the armscye dips in, adding about 1/2" at the narrowest point and smoothly blending it back into the original line. I just did this to the front pattern piece as the back fit beautifully. I did however measure the length of the total armhole (subtracting the seam allowances) and check that it was still roughly the same as the length of the sleeve head so I didn't end up with too little or too much to ease in when setting the sleeves.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns

In general the stripe matching wasn't too tricky on this as there are not many pattern pieces to match (just side seams and a centre back seam) and the bold bands of colour are quite wide. The only thing which bothered me for a while is that the bands are made up of a series of smaller stripes which kind of wiggle across the fabric and this means the widths of the bands vary at different points. After a bit of thought I decided there was no way to conquer this irregularity and I just had to accept that the widths of the bands may be slightly different where they met at the side seams. I'm really happy with how the placement of the pattern works with the darts and how that orange stripe appears to curve down over the bust. I won't lie...that was a happy accident!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns


Because of the irregular widths of the bands I wasn't too bothered about any exact matching at the armholes but I did know I needed to consider the placement of the stripes on the sleeves to avoid it looking like a hot mess where things intersected and also to keep the design of the top looking balanced. Once I had cut my front pattern pieces I marked on the tissue where the bands of colour began and ended then used this to roughly work out where I wanted the orange and green bands to lie on the sleeve head, using the notches as a guide to match things up. I drew this onto the sleeve pattern pieces so it was super simple to cut. I was really happy to have the paper version of the pattern opposed to the PDF at this point as I could see straight through the tissue! I'm really pleased with how the sleeves turned out as when Mum's arms are by her sides the colours appear to run straight across the garment, through the body and sleeves.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns

I again used a facing I drafted myself to finish the neckline rather than using the bias tape recommended in the pattern instructions as I found this really tricky to manage around the tight curves at the shoulder seams. As with my original Laurel blouse and subsequent versions I still had real trouble getting the neckline to lay flat, particularly in this crisper cotton despite vigorous pressing. I clipped the seam allowances right up to the stitching line every half inch or so and then under stitched all the way round. Once the edges of the facing were then tacked down by hand at the shoulder seams and centre back I was happy with the finish. On my polka dot version I had to resort to topstitching to stop the facing flipping out to the right side and I really didn't want to have to do that on this one as it would have been much more obvious crossing the various colours.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns

The only other change I made this time was to turn and press a small hem on the sleeves rather than using bias tape. It is a lovely clean finish which worked well in this weight of cotton but I might revert back to using a bias tape on future versions. On my polka dot blouse I used a lovely soft inch wide rayon binding which makes the sleeve edge really comfortable and also the width of it seems to help the sleeve sit nicely against the arm.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: John Lewis Heritage Collection Cotton Laurel Blouse from Colette Patterns

I finished all my seams on the overlocker and turned the hem up twice before machine stitching which turned out beautifully in this lovely cotton. The insides look really clean and tidy and you get a really nice crisp edge when pressing.

After seeing the things that I have been sewing Mum has been tempted recently to buy herself a sewing machine; all I need to do now is persuade her that she'll love sewing as much as I do and she can make herself some more blouses!