tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post3872077583442916435..comments2023-06-01T15:17:07.178+01:00Comments on Diary of a Chain Stitcher : A Trio of Renfrew TopsFiona Parkerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-38580114189604968702014-11-15T18:59:58.638+00:002014-11-15T18:59:58.638+00:00That's really interesting Nicole. I think the ...That's really interesting Nicole. I think the thing that I struggle most with about knits is that they are all SO different so you can never confidently set out knowing exactly the best way to handle it and they produce such different results. Sewing up the same pattern in different fabrics is a great way to learn though I thinkFiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-77375663342767850012014-11-15T18:58:32.165+00:002014-11-15T18:58:32.165+00:00Oo I hadn't seen the Brigitte before, I'll...Oo I hadn't seen the Brigitte before, I'll be looking into that! That fusible web sounds great, I've got some steam a seam but it's not stretch. Those are great tips thank you, I'd love to try some merino one day!Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-63419323138310309012014-11-15T18:57:21.216+00:002014-11-15T18:57:21.216+00:00Jo, I'm so happy with that last t-shirt and mu...Jo, I'm so happy with that last t-shirt and much more confident now! I think I'd been relying on my overlocker too much and it definitely leaves way to much room for error!Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-70267303163023101702014-11-15T18:55:57.382+00:002014-11-15T18:55:57.382+00:00Thank you, you're welcome! It was actually qui...Thank you, you're welcome! It was actually quite a revelation to look at all three next to each other and write about them. it really made me feel like I had accomplished something and I could understand my learning process and why certain things worked or didn't in a wayFiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-85956706580229285212014-11-15T18:54:47.477+00:002014-11-15T18:54:47.477+00:00Thanks so much for all those fantastic tips Brooke...Thanks so much for all those fantastic tips Brooke, that all makes so much sense to me after working with these three different knits. I used to be very impatient with my sewing and just want to get stuck into the real thing rather than doing any trial and error on scraps but that is probably the best tip you can give! I've tried both sharp and stretch twin needles and was surprised to see that the sharp worked better on some than others. It seems all the advice out there says to always use ballpoint or stretch but it's definitely good to play around and find out as all fabrics are so different.Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-55634883294360449622014-11-15T18:51:16.183+00:002014-11-15T18:51:16.183+00:0017????!!! That's got to be some sort of record...17????!!! That's got to be some sort of record! Yes I think each knit fabric behaves totally differently with the twin needle, much as they behave differently to one another in every other respect!Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-76591020737695842872014-11-15T18:49:42.937+00:002014-11-15T18:49:42.937+00:00That's a fantastic tip thank you, it sounds li...That's a fantastic tip thank you, it sounds like that would absolutely solve my problems. And prevent that wavy hem I sometimes get...Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-8239915360012957602014-11-15T18:48:55.153+00:002014-11-15T18:48:55.153+00:00Maybe you've hit on something there! It might ...Maybe you've hit on something there! It might be the thread...I could not get the twin needle to work at all on the stable ponti knit I used for my Lady Skater and I think someone mentioned to me at the time that those sorts of fabrics could be tricky. Leaving off those bands seems to be a popular choice with the Renfrew!Fiona Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02009622644944619042noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-27473650028270538722014-11-11T15:30:17.313+00:002014-11-11T15:30:17.313+00:00I loved seeing your knits progression! I've do...I loved seeing your knits progression! I've done the same thing, but with the Plantain pattern.<br /><br />One thing that is still frustrating to me is how differently knits behave! My two latest Plantains were made using verrrrry drapey jersey, and I don't really like the neckline binding on them very much.Nicole from PudgeAndNico.comhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14275812104010636173noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-4144462015066012492014-11-11T07:29:23.102+00:002014-11-11T07:29:23.102+00:00I've been on a knit making binge. My favourite...I've been on a knit making binge. My favourite pattern is the Brigitte boatneck top by Tessuti. I use a fusible web by clover to press up the hems and I then stitch all hems with a twin needle. On my machine I use 0 presser foot pressure and also decrease the tension on the bobbin as well. I also tend to use merino knit from New Zealand (reasonably priced here in Australia). Hope this helps, MelAudrey Chrysalishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13135258531943025410noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-21924764522702458992014-11-10T08:40:59.300+00:002014-11-10T08:40:59.300+00:00I would always do necklines and armholes on a knit...I would always do necklines and armholes on a knit on the machine. Imagine unpicking overlocking if you had a pucker? Side seams and shoulders are fine to overlook normally but I do generally go with machine first and finish on the overlocker. And look how much better you've got with your knit sewing!Sew little timehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04027164681383524032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-82053732977628805662014-11-10T08:25:29.577+00:002014-11-10T08:25:29.577+00:00Such a great post! I've noticed changes in the...Such a great post! I've noticed changes in the way I sew certain fabrics over the years but I've never put it into words like this or done such a great comparison. Thanks for sharing your knit journey - it's great to share this kind of information!Scared Stitchlesshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15771432636922702422noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-37952888127649117552014-11-08T17:22:20.978+00:002014-11-08T17:22:20.978+00:00Such a great way for you to see your improvement! ...Such a great way for you to see your improvement! Improvement seems to happen so much more slowly when you aren't able to step back and objectively observe yourself. Great job on all three tops and wonderful how you were able to learn from all of them - I'd call that super successful sewing!<br /><br />Sometimes, skipped stitches have to do with a needle bouncing off a knit fabric and not completely piercing it to complete the stitch properly. This can be either a result of the fabric (spandex is often dense and causes all kinds of bouncing) or the type of needle (sharp vs. ballpoint). Some knits actually behave better with a sharp needle while others are so much better with a ballpoint. It's all about testing and making samples with whatever fabric you are using. A dull needle can also cause skipped stitches. And as Becca Porter mentioned above, sometimes you need to stabilize the fabric where you plan to stitch with a twin needle. Even sewing through a strip of paper placed over or under your fabric as you sew can help make a difference.<br /><br />I often prefer a small zigzag stitch and then a serged edge after as well. It's a good way to imitate an all-in-one industrial serger that has a chain stitch to the left of the serging. If I'm not sewing a zigzag seam, I always use four cones and two needles for construction on my serger (I use 3 cones and one needle for all other basic serging).<br /><br />Love all three tops! I agree that the shorter sleeves on the last one are the nicest proportions. The other sleeve length is nice too for some variety. =)Brookehttp://customstyle.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-8184305837896861722014-11-08T14:23:24.090+00:002014-11-08T14:23:24.090+00:00I agree, it's great to see how much your skill...I agree, it's great to see how much your skills with sewing knits have improved over time! I've made a ton of Renfrews (I think I'm up to 17?), as they're such versatile wardrobe basics. I use them a lot for layering in the winter. I've been thinking of omitting the hem band and trying a twin needle, but so far I've just been too lazy to do so. :)<br /><br />I've only ever tried a twin needle on fairly stable knit fabrics, and it worked out really nicely with no tunneling. I suspect a thinner knit would behave very differently though!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-85589916607386408862014-11-08T12:54:40.331+00:002014-11-08T12:54:40.331+00:00I like your tale of sewing with knits-really shows...I like your tale of sewing with knits-really shows your progression. They are a tricky fabric to master but so satisfying once you do. I find with twin needle hems that using a strip of elasticated interfacing on the reverse really helps to stop the tunnelling, particularly on lightweight knits xBecca Porterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11259432626814474864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8566831796183567008.post-59165350559079769182014-11-08T10:44:58.118+00:002014-11-08T10:44:58.118+00:00I love how you've put them all in one post so ...I love how you've put them all in one post so we can see the differences between them and the improvements - it's really noticeable how much the things you changed affect the finished item. I've made a couple of renfrews recently, and I agree with you on leaving off the hem and sleeve bands - I like it a lot more that way. I've also been having twin needle issues, but have yet to conquer mine. Mine was on Coco, which was a decent, fairly stable knit from Cloth House, but it would just not play ball at all. I used leftovers from that for a renfrew, so didn't even attempt the twin needles! So I don't think that could be because of the quality of fabric, maybe the quality of the thread though, I'll try changing that next time! I'm super impressed with all your stripe matching on these!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com