Black Linen Vali Top

Hello! Long time no blog.

I had considered not mentioning my absence but actually think it is important sometimes to be honest when you've been having a rough patch. So often on the internet everything looks rosy and that makes it more difficult when you’re having a hard time as it can feel like you're the only one who feels that way. I can't remember if I wrote about it on here or just on Instagram at the time but I lost my wonderful Mum to bowel cancer in October. Grief is exhausting, at times overwhelming and sometimes feels a bit like I'm losing my mind as it tries to make sense of what has happened. It can make getting on with 'regular life' and collecting my thoughts challenging. I wanted to bring it up, not so much as an explanation, but more in the hope that it might help someone else who is going through similar to feel less alone. Every grief is different but I know speaking to others who can somewhat understand and seeing others share their experience has been really helpful to me.

My motivation and energy to sew and blog definitely took a dip but over the last couple of months I have actually been doing a fair bit of sewing (I think the arrival of summer here in the UK always inspires me to get stitching). But I've still been lacking the motivation to take photos; that has always been my least favourite part of blogging! I took photos in bulk of quite a few projects today so hopefully that will keep me going for a while and I can get back to the more enjoyable task of writing.

The first thing I want to share is this Pattern Fantastique Vali Top which I've just finished sewing up in some beautiful deadstock black linen from The Fabric Store. I did consider using a printed rayon fabric but I'm glad I stuck with a solid coloured linen as the structure of the fabric really emphasises the drama of the gorgeous sleeves and I think a print would have hidden some of the lovely details. It is also quite a fiddly sew so I'm glad I picked a stable fabric which presses well for my first attempt.

I cut a size 10 based on the upper bust measurement as recommended by the pattern and am really pleased with the fit. It is a smock style but I think having a nice neat fit across the yoke helps to balance out the volume elsewhere. I also manged to get the elastic in the sleeve hems the right length for once! For some reason I always end up making slim elastic like this too tight but this is nice and comfy at only a fraction shorter than the measurement around my arm. This is the top version of the pattern (it includes a midi length dress too) and didn't adjust the length at all and used 1.5m of fabric.

I really enjoy using patterns which construct garments differently to methods I usually fall back on and therefore test my brain a little bit. I like to feel like I am learning something new. This pattern definitely tested me! The instructions are written in a different format to a lot of other pattern companies I sew with; more a long list of short bullet points rather than detailed larger steps. They are very thorough but in a way which was perhaps slightly overcomplicated. For example when inserting the ties you sew the seam then unpick a little bit to insert the tie and sew it again...I just pinned the tie in place and sewed it into the seam in one go. Much quicker.

At first I quite enjoyed the way the instructions jumped around between pattern pieces and did a bit of prep on all of them first as this is quite often the way I like to sew; assembling each element individually so they are all ready to put together as you come to each step. However, after a while I did find myself a bit confused. I was sewing this top in short little bursts here and there when I had the time so perhaps that didn't help.  

I found it difficult to get into my usual flow when sewing this, particularly when constructing the neckline which involved lots of small pattern pieces and continuously changing sizes of seam allowance. It has created a beautiful finish but I felt like there was definitely some room for error there. If I make it again I think I might create my own all in one facing for the neckline rather than all those little individual bits. I also got a bit muddled at the point where the diagrams and instructions seemed to indicate that the hem had already been finished in a previous step but I could find no reference to that anywhere. I did think the issues were just my confused brain but a couple of other people mentioned on Instagram that they also found it to be quite a complicated sew.

One of my least favourite sewing techniques is gathering, yet I seem to be drawn to all the gathered styles at the moment! This pattern approached it slightly differently by giving you the measurements to gather your pieces to before you get to that stage of construction. I quite liked this as securing the ends when it gets to the right length then makes it easy to adjust the density of the gathers to be even. However, I did find I needed to adjust it again anyway when it came to attaching it to the other pieces so don't think it made it easier or saved any time. Next time I think I'll just stick to pinning the ends and centre then gathering it to match the other pattern piece.

Despite the slightly taxing construction it has turned out beautifully and is a style I can see myself wearing a lot. It was actually really nice to tackle something a bit different though as that is definitely one of the things that motivates me to sew. I love the drama of the sleeve and the seventies smock inspired yoke. I'm putting it on my list of things to make again as I'd really like to try the dress version, perhaps in a crisp cotton poplin.