Diary of a Chain Stitcher

I really enjoyed making my top version of Birgitta Helmersson’s  Zero Waste Gather Dress last year and decided it was about time I tried another. This is the ZW Block Pant . Her patterns don't come with much in the way of pattern pieces (this time it was just a patch pocket and template for shape at the hem) and instead instructions to draw out the pattern pieces on your fabric. It is really fun to do something a bit differently when you've done as much sewing as I have. I also like that drawing it out really helps you to understand the drafting and how it all works together. The key to making a pattern zero waste is tessellating the pattern pieces so that you don't have any scraps left over. In this instance the interior of the crotch curve for the patch pockets and the back legs are formed of two pieces with a seam just under the bum.

I have been intrigued by zero waste sewing patterns for some time now and there seem to be more of them available lately. I recently updated my list of Independent Sewing Pattern Designers to include a number of companies who have zero waste patterns if you'd like to explore. The idea of a zero waste garment is that it uses up every little bit of the fabric you have, using clever tessellating pattern pieces to leave you without even a tiny scrap left over. I'm always quite careful when buying fabric to not buy more than I need and often lay out the pattern pieces prior to purchase to figure out how little I can get it out of as pattern designers often over estimate to avoid disappointment. Despite this I still end up with large amounts of unusable awkward shaped and sized scraps which I never know what to do with in an environmentally responsible manner. A lot of work and resources go into the making of every single piece of fabric so shouldn't we do our best to use and no...

Elbe Textiles are one of my favourite indie pattern discoveries of last year. They produce women's, mens and unisex patterns (I love Lauren's thoughts on gendered clothing in modern western society) alongside a few accessory designs. Their designs have a chic, modern, minimalist vibe and are effortlessly wearable. Just what I need in my life. Their samples are all made up in lovely tactile natural fibres and I'm drawn to their sustainable sewing ethos. A few months back owner Lauren posted a tutorial for a Zero Waste Kimono Pattern and it was the first thing I thought of when I realised I needed a lightweight cover-up for my holidays. Zero waste sewing (using up every scrap of your fabric for a project) is increasingly drawing my attention. I hate waste and I'm sure a lot of you, like me have been appalled to learn more over the last year about the impact of the clothing industry and waste from it on our planet and the people on it. How I can change my own sewin...