Floral Challis Tudor Blouse

This is another slightly spontaneous sewing project which wasn't initially on my plans for summer. I don't usually have a tendency to jump on a pattern the instant it is released. I'm one of those sewers who likes to sit back and see it made in a few different fabrics and on a few different body shapes first. Particularly when it is a pattern from a company I haven't used before. However, I've been totally sucked into the square neck with big sleeves trend of this summer and when Stitch Witch Patterns released the Tudor Blouse I knew it was for me! It felt slightly more accessible as a way to dip my toe into the trend rather than a full on dramatic dress. Plus I'd identified that I needed some more tops to go with the high waisted skirts and trousers in my wardrobe.

The fabric is a beautiful floral rayon challis from The Fabric Store which unfortunately looks like it has now sold out. I could absolutely envision the top in this print but deliberated over using the fabric for a while as I thought the challis might be too lightweight and drapey to work for the sleeve. The sleeves would definitely have more of a dramatic shape and impact in a crisper fabric but I actually really love the softer look of this. This one has already become a real workhorse in my wardrobe so I will definitely be making up a more structured version in a cotton lawn or poplin anyway too! Don't you think this would look so good sewn in Ankara?!

The top is really straightforward to assemble and is finished nicely with a facing at the front and back as well as a nice deep hem. You create elastic channels at both the top and hem of the sleeve and insert the elastic before sewing up the underarm seam and attaching them to the bodice. This works well at the shoulder but next time I'd probably create the cuff channel after sewing up the underarm seam so you don't end up with bulky bits of elastic in the seam allowance/ I opted to hand stitch down this flappy little bit of seam allowance and also hand stitched down the seam allowance where the sleeve meets the neckline so I didn't get any unsightly bits poking out. 

I did find the sizing a little confusing as there are options for full bust and small bust sizes but I could only see one set of measurements on the pattern and no further information about cup sizing...I took a punt at the smaller cup size in a size 8 at the bust and 10 at the waist and hips, then measured the pattern pieces to be sure once I had assembled the PDF. Luckily this turned out spot on. I also got confused when the instructions said to use the 'button guides' to mark your buttonhole placement and ended up making mine up before realising they were in a separate folder with the pattern download! Note to self - when making your first project from a new to you pattern company make sure to look everything over and read all the instructions before you start - different companies do things differently!

The fit overall is great and for me personally includes a nice amount of ease. It is fitted without being tight to the body and sits really nicely. I did shorten both the elastic over the shoulder and around the arm which is probably to be expected as I am quite short in the shoulder and have quite skinny arms! I'm not usually a big fan of elastic in clothing, particularly elasticated waistlines as I don't like how they move about and ride up to unwanted places sometimes. However, the elastic on this works great and is very comfortable. I haven't had any problems with the sleeves slipping down off the shoulder but if you did (as is potentially likely with a wide low neckline front and back) you could add that slightly sticky silicone elastic or even bra strap holders. Bra-wise I can wear a balcony style bra with quite wide set straps with this - non need for strapless. 

This is actually the longer version of the blouse just tucked into my high waisted jeans. I was tempted by the cropped length but ultimately saw myself wearing this top at work and didn't fancy flashing my midriff as I lifted stuff about. My jeans are my third iteration of the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans and I absolutely love them! This pattern is such a gem. I'm certainly not done with it and all its plentiful variations yet. This is the View C wide leg in the cropped length with purple topstitching! I've previously made the shorts and straight leg variations. This time I chose a denim with just a little bit of elastane content which makes them SOOO comfortable! I love the rigid high waisted fit of my previously pairs but they don't half take some wearing in to make them comfy. These are super soft straight off the machine! To accommodate for the stretch in the denim and keep the figure hugging fit I used a 1" seam allowance down the side seams. This worked a treat although the fit around the crotch has taken slight hit, I'm seeing more wrinkles in this pair and they feel like they could do with shortening a touch through the back rise. Something to remember next time. 

Back to my Tudor Blouse, I ended up using these pearly blue buttons because they were the only thing in my button box in the right size, quantity and vaguely correct colour. I'm not completely happy with them and in fact since taking these photos five of them have been removed and used on the set of Carolyn Pyjamas I just finished! I think an off-white button to match the flowers might work better and stand out a little more than the blue.

Over the course of the pandemic the one thing (I'm talking sewing-wise obviously) I've found problematic is getting the right buttons and zip colours for my projects as these are things I'd usually buy in person with some of the fabric to hand. Now we can venture out to the shops again I'm still a little stuck as there is no-where local to me with a wide selection of either. I used to buy my buttons and zips while I was shopping for work in London, in places like MacCulloch and Wallis and John Lewis. But as the theatre industry has ground to a halt I'm not show shopping or even going in to town. Has anyone got any tips for notion shopping without access to those big haberdashery stores? I'm in Surrey about an hour out of London.

I'm delighted with this whole outfit and know both garments are going to see a lot of wear. My wardrobe could still do with a few more tops like this. What are your favourite top patterns for with high waisted trousers and skirts?

Floral Viscose Crepe Frankie Wrap Skirt

I try really hard to put thought into my projects and sew practical clothing which is going to earn its place in my wardrobe. However, sometimes I just cannot resist a gloriously frivolous make which I've chosen to sew just because I WANT to. This project today is one of those. I deliberated over how much I would actually get to wear it and whether it was the best use of this beautiful piece of viscose before thinking 'sod it' and diving in. Let me tell you that was an excellent spontaneous decision. I loved every single second of making this skirt and I love the final outcome so much that it is inspiring me to get more dressed up every sunny day of this summer!

This is the Frankie Wrap Skirt; a free pattern download from the reasonably new pattern company Made Label. When I made this a few weeks ago this was the only pattern available, but since then three more patterns have been launched. Before I start talking about the skirt itself I just wanted to mention a couple of things I spotted which really impressed me about the company. They work with the Batwa Rock & Cave Project in Uganda to support the Batwa Pygmy Tribe, something that means a lot to me personally since Ed and I visited Uganda in January this year and were able to meet some of the Batwa. The Batwa lived in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest up until 1992 when it became a National Park and World Heritage Site and they were evicted. A percentage of what you pay for your pattern goes to provide food, shelter and a sustainable future for the Batwa. I also noted that Made Label give a pattern credit for any projects that they share on their Instagram. I feel like this is a pattern company looking to do things the right way from the start.

I'd been looking at options for wrap skirt for a while and it was the more fitted shape of this pattern which really appealed to me. I love the the slim body-skimming cut but combined with the drama and movement of that looooong ruffle! I really like the length and the proportions of the ruffle which is formed of a series of semi circular pieces without any gathering which I love. Firstly because I really dislike the process of gathering and secondly because it has a much less bulky effect. It works sort of like a circle skirt. The circular pattern pieces mean less volume at the top but a lot at the bottom.

The pattern recommends a fabric with a good drape like viscose of rayon to make this and that is exactly what I chose. This floral print viscose crepe is from The Fabric Store. Unfortunately it must have sold out since I ordered it but they often have a great variety of modern and wearable prints on a viscose base. This one has a very similar weight and hand to their plain viscose range. The properties of viscose crepe make it perfect for a flirty little skirt like this. It has movement but a bit of substance so that the ruffle doesn't hang too limply. It is probably my go-to choice for summer dresses and skirts.

The pattern is advertised as perfect for beginners and whilst I agree that it is fairly straightforward to put together with no fastenings or complex techniques, the suggested fabric of viscose/rayon combined with all those curved edges I think needs a bit of experience. Viscose and rayon can be quite delicate and prone to stretching out especially along bias and curved edges so you need to handle it with care.

I added in some stay-stitching along the waistline and the front curved edges of the wrap as I was worried about this delicate crepe stretching out. I also in a way stay-stitched the hem edge of the ruffle as I find the quickest and easiest way to do a long narrow hem like this is to stitch along the raw edge at the depth you want your first turn of hem to be. The stitching provides a clear marking line to press up along so you don't have to keep measuring all the way along and also kind of keeps that edge nice and tight making it easier to ease in as you press it up. I think the only other thing I did differently to the instructions was to add some lightweight fusible interfacing to the waistband and tie. I wanted the waistband to have a bit of structure and the tie to have some body rather than hanging limp.

Whilst straightforward to construct without much fitting to fiddle with, it does take a while to put together especially if you follow the instructions to use french seams throughout. That and the miles of narrow hem to do along the ruffle certainly eats up time. 100% worth it though and I love that the instructions suggest french seams. I really enjoyed putting the time into this beautiful and robust finish and not using my overlocker for once! The instructions in the video for french seams are really good and clear if it is you first time doing them. In fact the instruction video is really clear full stop! I did slightly wish there was a brief set of written instructions alongside the video so I didn't have to try and find the right point in the video if I had a query. This is a free pattern though, so I can't really complain! The new patterns also have sew-along videos, I don't know if they come with written instructions too. The seam allowances are included on all the pattern pieces so for a simple pattern like this you can kind of do without the video or instructions if you have a bit of sewing experience.

I was between sizes and ended up sizing down to the 4 as I thought my fabric might stretch a little. The wrap is quite forgiving so I didn't bother with grading between sizes to get my exact size or anything. It turned out absolutely great but I am conscious that I wouldn't want the overlap of the wrap to be any less, I do flash quite a bit of leg when the wind blows in the right direction! Each size is in a separate file to print out which makes grading between sizes a little problematic but I do like that it means that if you are cutting a smaller size you save on wasting paper. The instructions are really clear about what pages you need to print for each pattern piece which is good but because there is no more than one pattern piece on each sheet it felt like there were some quite big offcuts.

One thing I did like about the PDF if that there is a page of labels for you to print and cut out to pin to your pattern pieces. I think that's really useful for a project like this when you have a lot of similar looking pieces that you don't want to mix up.

I highly recommend this as a bit of meditative sewing. You can get nicely lost in the rhythm of pressing and sewing all those long french seams. I think because the pattern was free I was expecting it to be quite basic and simple to whip up. But I was so impressed with the thought that has been put into both the pattern and the instructional video. This isn't a simple gathered or pleated skirt with a gathered ruffle along the bottom edge. It is cut really well and sits beautifully on the body. It is a simple and fun style done really well.

Black Lichen Jacquard Axis Dress

Papercut Patterns describe the Axis Dress as their ode to Audrey Hepburn. When I picked this combination of fabric and pattern I certainly had high hopes for creating the kind of failsafe little black dress which would become the perfect choice to wear to so many events for years to come. Have I succeeded? I'm delighted to say I think so! This dress is absolutely going to be my go-to for all kinds of occasions. It feels modest whilst still a little sexy. Dressed up but understated. Interesting but o so timeless and chic. I just love it.

I've sewn this up in black viscose jacquard from The Fabric Store. I know a lot of people when they hear 'jacquard' or 'brocade' think of heavier, stiff upholstery fabrics but this jacquard is like liquid. This dress works great in a fabric with structure or crispness but I love that this particular fabric is heavy enough to hold the shape of the dress but brings some movement. It looks like it might be quite thick with a bouncy sort of texture to it but actually it is completely smooth and has a beautiful fluid drape. So dreamy.

The Fabric Store describe the design of the jacquard weave as 'lichen' and it is the most perfect word for it. It has a kind of organic and mossy feel. The combination of matt and satin texture in the jacquard gives a real depth to it and the dense black of the satin areas look almost like spongy velvet from a distance. So much more interesting than a flat black fabric. I actually couldn't decide which side of the jacquard to use as there is no clear wrong or right and both are equally beautiful. I went for the less shiny one in the end. The other side has a bolder pattern in the jacquard which felt a bit more modern, almost animal print and I wanted to keep this classic.

I generally get away with only a few small fitting tweaks with most pattern companies. However, I've learnt from prior experience that Papercut Patterns take a little bit more work as they are drafted for a slightly different body shape than mine. I started with cutting the size 3 and grading out to between a 3 and 4 at hip. The 3 should just about fit my measurement at the hip but I have found some Papercut designs to be a little snug in this area in the past. I also find them quite long in the body and I'm both petite and short in the body, particularly between the shoulder and bust. I often find I need to take straps up. There is no lengthen/shorten line on the pattern but after holding the front bodice pattern piece up to myself and deducing that the dart point could do with coming up a little, I decided to shorten it by 3/4" between the bust and the armhole. Shortening it at this point worked well for the back too as it was high enough not to affect the waist ties. I shortened it then redrew the curve of the wrap.

I wasn't dead set on 3/4" being the right amount but I figured I could adjust the length slightly when attaching the shoulder strap. However, because the shoulder straps are attached early on and because of the nature of the wrap style of the dress it is hard to try on and assess the length until the dress is pretty much done! You could go back in and alter the strap length at the end but it would be a fiddle. Luckily my 3/4" adjustment has turned out perfectly! I've definitely got so much better at knowing the proportions of my own body in the last couple of years.

I am delighted with the fit. The wrap nature of the bodice does make the fit a bit more forgiving but in general it skims the body with the perfect amount of ease. It fits so well over the hips and seat and because of the wrap at the back there is no need for a sway back alteration which is a problem I sometimes encounter. Now I've worn it a little bit to take photos I think I could do with taking in the centre back waist a little as the zip sits away from the body and fights against the wrap bodice a little. The neckline lays flat across the collar bones and I find the height of it very elegant. I thought I was going to want to take a huge chunk off the length of the skirt to suit me as the skirt panels looked really long but I actually really like the elegance of the long midi length! I ended up only taking off 2" to achieve a true midi length on my height.

Next time (as I really want to make another of these in a colour for daywear) I might make the opening in the side seam for the waist tie a little shorter. At the moment the tie slips down a bit as you wear it and you get a little peep of skin which really shows up against the black. The dress can also be worn simply tied at the back rather than wrapped around which I rather like but then the slit is left open exposing your skin up the side seam. I think you probably have to decide which way you are going to wear it and sew up the side seam if you want it tied at the back.

This was such a fun project to sew because of the unique construction. I love making something a little bit different. I've tried to get some flat photos of the dress that give you an idea of the unusual way it comes together. The only change I made to the instructions was to stay-stitch along those long back edges (maybe not necessary in a more stable fabric but definitely needed in this slippery viscose) and to also under-stitch them. The instructions suggest under stitching the front as far as possible but don't mention it at the back and I think it is really useful to keep that curved wrap edge sitting nicely without the lining peeping out. I did this by sewing along the long curved edge, then under stitching before sewing the armhole and bottom seams rather than sewing all of them at the same time as instructed. To prevent the lining peeping out along the bottom edge I offset the raw edge of the shell fabric slightly inside the raw edge of the lining fabric when I sewed them together so that the lining was naturally pulled to the inside of the garment when turned right side out.

As I approached the home straight when making this I just had a feeling it was going to be a winner. So much so that I even went back and unpicked the top of the side seams to get a better match at the underarm. I also gave it the special treatment and hand sewed the hem and front split. I'm so happy that finished result 100% lived up to my high hopes. This fabric has been sitting in my stash for well over a year with a note pinned to it saying 'Axis Dress' and I'm slightly kicking myself that I didn't get around to making it sooner!

Maple Linen Blanca Flight Suit

How many jumpsuits does one woman need in her wardrobe? If you're me the answer is an awful lot! I was just beginning to think I might have stated my desire to have any more jumpsuits on rotation when Closet Case Patterns released the Blanca Flight Suit. I love the contemporary cut of this and all the little details which Closet Case Patterns do so well. Whilst I love the full on workwear vibe in the denim I felt like the second view with the short sleeve, tie belt and cropped leg I might get a little bit more wear out of. Heather models a sample made up in a linen which I loved the soft, chic yet relaxed vibe of so I hunted down some linen for my own.

This is the Vintage Finish Linen in Maple from The Fabric Store. Their vintage finish range is fairly new and is about the same mid-weight as their regular linen line but has a slightly worn in look and lovely soft hand. I loved working with it and am loving wearing it even more! All the colours in the range are right up my street so I'm going to be ordering a lot more of it. Maple is the perfect word to describe this colour; warm, rich and soft all at the same time. In some lights it looks like a dusky pink, in others more of a brown. It somehow feels like a neutral to me.

Blanca is quite an involved project and I tried to approach it slowly and with care; spending 2-3 hours on it over the course of about 4 days. I think slowing down and paying attention to the details really shows in the final garment. During lockdown I've re-found a care and attention to detail in my sewing which I think being so busy for the last couple of years caused me to neglect. The extra time has really given me space to dream creatively, think about the small details and invest time into fit and finish. I've been pausing to read through all those bits of the instructions I usually skip over, eager to dive right into the sewing and have picked up some great hints, tips and ideas along the way.

Closet Case patterns are ideal for this as their instructions are thorough and packed with useful information, particularly in the pages before the sewing instructions actually start! I always find putting together their garments a please as there is no confusion despite various fiddly aspects and I learn something along the way. The instructions are clear, the techniques spot on and everything comes together just as it should with all the notches e.t.c matching up.

As this is such a 'full body' garment you are potentially going to be dealing with a few fit issues, particularly the length through the body which you definitely don't want to end up too short or long. The instructions recommend making a basic muslin first and I would advise doing this too despite being a bad sewist and skipping it myself! I figured I could always tweak the length for my petite frame when attaching the bodice to the trousers but actually you assemble the front and back in their entirety before sewing up the side seams so you can't try it on to test the length until it is almost finished! However, this order of construction does mean that it is really easy to tweak the fit around the body if you want it slightly slimmer or looser fitting around the waist or hips. I'm pretty sure this is intentional and I love it.

Thankfully mine turned out fine length-wise thanks to the exceedingly thorough list of finished garment measurements in the instructions. I was initially planning on taking a bit of length out the bodice and possibly the rise too given that I'm 5ft 3" but I compared the finished front and back length measurements to that of my Zadie Jumpsuit and the Zadie was a fair amount longer (despite me shortening that pattern). So I decided to err on the side of caution and sew it up with the length as is. It is spot on. I do find I am lifting the trousers up a little when I tie the belt around the waist (if that makes sense) causing the slightly blouson effect of the bodice. But actually you need this extra bit of length in order to get in and out. So be warned not to shorten the length of your zip or you might have trouble!

I cut the size 6 at the bust & waist and the 8 at the hip which is standard for me for Closet Case Patterns. I'm glad I went up in the hip as this has turned out slightly slimmer through this area than I expected. But I do adore the slim cut of this. It feels chic and modern as opposed to particularly utilitarian. Particularly made up in this soft linen. When it came to hemming I took an inch off the length of the trousers. The cropped leg wasn't looking so cropped on my short pins! The sleeves I hemmed at the intended length but I like wearing them rolled up a couple of times as pictured. The rear patch pockets are possibly a touch too high and large for my shape, something I found with the Closet Case Ginger Jeans too. It doesn't overly bother me though and would be easy enough to tweak second time around.

I love a bit of contrast top-stitching but wanted to keep this quite clean and contemporary so opted for a regular sew-all thread in another earthy colour. I love how it has turned out. I've found shopping for fabric and haberdashery online fine while the shops were closed here in the UK but the only thing I found difficult was matching up colours of zips and buttons. I was over the moon when this one arrived from Jaycotts and the tape was an almost exact colour match! I like the brass teeth and pull against this colour too. (FYI The Fabric Store are now selling a selection of invisible zips with a zip matching service online). While we are on the subject of zips I'm really pleased with my zip insertion which was a new method for me. A little bit nerve-racking with all that visible topstitching and metal teeth to avoid!

One of my favourite details is how the top of the front patch pockets form the belt loops. So clever. My machine generally does really great buttonholes (although I had a disaster with a keyhole buttonhole on a pair of jeans the other day - there were nearly tears!). However I've always had trouble with the automatic bar tack function. I can never get the length just right and it almost always ends up tangled up or wonky. I thought it might do better on this linen rather than a pair of denim jeans but had to resort to using a tight and narrow zig zag stitch and attempting to make them all the same length! it gives the same effect anyhow. Any tips for bar tacks?

I must apologise for the slightly wrinkly photos as this has already been worn a couple of times. It has already become one of my favourite things to reach for in the morning. If I ever get back to work this is going to be so good for it in this gorgeous warm neutral colour. It is comfortable enough to crawl around the floor in during a costume fitting and is ever so practical with all those pockets. Yet it also feels smart and put together enough to walk into a meeting straight afterwards. Ed said I look like Jane Goodall in Tanzania with the chimpanzees which I'm taking as a HUGE compliment. Blanca, it's love.