Saturday, 31 October 2015

October Indie Pattern Update!



Is it just me or has October felt like a reaaallllly long month?! It must be the increasingly shorter, gloomier days but some of the first bits of news I was typing up I felt sure must have been from months ago. The good news is that this extra length seems to have been reflected in the number of new releases and amount of indie news that I have to share with you this month! The change of seasons has given us an shedload of new patterns to be tempted by.


New Pattern Companies!

  • Jenny from Cashmerette released her very first pattern; the Appleton Dress. Her patterns will be specifically drafted for plus size women and the size range covers size 12-28 and cups C-H. This particular design is a wrap dress and every version I've seen so far looks gorgeous! As well as paper and PDF versions there are kits including fabric available.
  • Another new company on the block is In The Folds who launched with the Rushcutter Dress. It's an oversized knee length dress with interesting style lines and various interchangeable features such as long sleeves and differing pocket styles.

New Patterns

  • Fancy Tiger Crafts released the Fen Pattern which is available in both PDF and paper formats. It has been designed by Amber Corcoran and is a pattern for a casual top or dress.
  • There were two new releases from Wendy Ward at MIY Collection; the Kelham A-Line Skirt and Wisewood Top and Dress. I'm yet to sew with a MIY pattern but have been seriously eyeing up her draped cardigan as a contender for the Derek Lam knit I picked up in LA.
  • Hey June Handmade released the Halifax Hoodie. I think it would be a great addition to any pattern collection as it includes a classic zip up version as well as lots of other variations.
  • Taylor Tailor released his eagerly anticipated Desmond Roll Top Backpack. I've never tried sewing bags before and if I didn't have a sewing queue as long as my arm and no time for any of it I'd definitely be taking the plunge as I love this design.
  • The patterns released alongside this month's issue of Seamwork Magazine follow the issue's menswear theme; the Paxson Sweatshirt is a great way to dip your toe into sewing for men and the Denali Vest is unisex.
  • This month's releases from Style Arc included the Beatrice Pea Coat, Mavis Knit Tunic, Vivienne Designer Frock, Louisa Dress & Top and the Pearl Knit Top which was this month's freebie with any purchase.
  • For me one of the highlights of this month's pattern releases has been Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection. The pattern includes a jumpsuit, dungarees, a dungaree dress and top for wearing underneath the lot. Such great value and contemporary design in a pattern.
  • The Roscoe Blouse and Dress pattern is the latest release from Kelli at True Bias and is so on trend with it's seventies boho design. 
  • Sally from Capital Chic Patterns released a free pattern for her amazing Valentino inspired swan collar. It can be used alongside her Bellini Blouse pattern and is a super effective design idea created with appliqué.
  • Make My Pattern released the Cathrin Corset. It's an under bust style corset with lots of options for variation. I love the wide variety of garment types there are now patterns available for!
  • The latest release from Tilly and the Buttons is the Orla Top. It looks like a simple design but has lots of lovely details such as a shaped, faced hem and optional scalloped collar.
  • Whitney Deal's second pattern for women is the Glea Dress. It's currently available in PDF for in her Etsy shop and features a button front and round collar. 
  • Hot Patterns had a couple of new releases this month; the 1196 Metropolitan Urban Gypsy Blouses and the 1197 Classic Nouveau Skinny Bootcut Jeans. Don't you think they'd look so great worn together? I love the big pockets on those jeans.
  • For the French speakers amongst you, Anne Ka Couture released the Robe Malo, which is a simple dress with a high neckline and cute cap or long sleeves.
  • Also Dessine Moi Un Patron released the Blouse Violette. I adore the back of this design with the centre back pleat and button back on the yoke. The amount of beautiful new French pattern releases every month is almost enough to make me brush up my French! At least the sewing related part!
  • There was another release from Grainline Studio this month. Perfect for this time of year the Tamarack Jacket involves quilting your own fabric with one of two designs and is available in PDF format only for the time being.
  • I discovered The Maker's Atelier only a few weeks ago at the Knitting & Stitching Show and shortly after they released the Atelier Coat. Like all their patterns it has a simple yet glamorous feel; just take a look at their fur sample!
  • One pattern that particularly caught my eye this month is the Pauline Alice Rosari Skirt. It really nails the balance between seventies inspired and contemporary with the A-line cut and button front. I love all the pocket variations and might end up trying them all out as I can see me wearing denim, suede and corduroy versions!
  • Salme Patterns released the 121 Maria Top. It's another classy and classic design which uses the reverse of the fabric to create detail at the centre front.
  • One release that caused quite the storm on social media is the new Colette Pattern. The Wren Dress is another pattern for knits with a faux wrap bodice. I've particularly enjoyed the colour blocked versions I've seen so far.
  • What I love about the new Sundance Jacket from Green Style Creations is that the two variations give you two so totally different jackets. The first is smart and chic with that stunning pleated rear peplum and the second more casual with a hood.
  • Peekabo Patterns released the Bristol Button Up which really appeals to me because it is so wearable. I love the combination of checked flannel and plain knit hood they've used.
  • Di Nuvole Di Cuori released two new patterns this month; the Anna Blouse which features a button back and the Silvia High Waisted Skirt which has six panels giving you a slightly flared hem.
  • The new Novelista Shirt from Blank Slate Patterns has many classic shirt features which can be easily customised and a variation with a cross over back panel which I love.
  • The new pattern from Make My Lemonade is the Rosa Jacket. Each month I'm tempted to try a Wear Lemonade pattern despite the language barrier and I think this might be the one! It's a relaxed bomber style jacket which I can imagine worn in so many ways.
  • And last but not least Muse Patterns released the Tahi Woven Skirt and Shrug pattern this month. The skirt has gorgeous 1940s inspired panelling and looks so great made up in a tweed or wool for the winter.

Sew-alongs

  • Taylor Tailor has been running a very thorough sew-along over on his blog for his new Desmond Roll Top Backpack pattern. I'm really interested in how to use all the hardware and create some structure.
  • The sew-along for the new True Bias Roscoe Blouse and Dress went up on Kelli's blog over the week of 19th October. Make sure to refer back to those posts for some extra tips.
  • Betsy over at Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic has been posting a sew-along for their Moto Chic Jacket. It's a great pattern to pick for a sew-along with some more challenging elements and a great way to try sewing your first jacket.
  • Sew Over It posted a two part sew-along for their gorgeous Joan Dress. The posts cover the trickier parts of assembly such as the neck tie and kick pleat.
  • The sew-along for Tilly and the Buttons' new Orla Top has been happening throughout October. For less experienced sewers this could be a great way to tackle some new things like collars and exposed zips.
  • There's been a mini sew-along happening for the Capital Chic Cosmopolitan Dress. It takes you through the more complicated steps of the construction process including the lace hem and neckline. I've not tried sewing with lace before so I think this might be a great way to dip my toe in!
  • The sew-along for Jenny's Appleton Wrap Dress is well underway over on her blog at Cashmerette. Knit sewing tips galore!
  • Gabby Young has been running a sew-along over on her site for the Simple Sew Sophia Top. The last post is how to adapt the pattern for knits which is a great idea.

Upcoming!

  • After releasing children's versions of some of her patterns Kelli from True Bias is developing a men's version of her popular Hudson Pants.
  • Lauren from Baste and Gather has been working on a pattern for flared jeans. The seventies trend is everywhere this autumn so I'm really tempted to give it a try with these.
  • So Zo... is currently testing for her next pattern; the Anya Shoulder Bag.
  • Kennis from Itch to Stitch is currently testing for her new pattern, the Liana Stretch Jeans. I think having a wider variety of jeans patterns out there can only be a good thing and Kennis' patterns are usually super thorough so I'm looking forward to these.
  • For those of your interested in expanding your handmade wardrobe into shoes, Atelier Louise is releasing her second shoe pattern next month. I loved the easy wearable style of her first sandal pattern.

Other Exciting News

  •  I know a few of your at least (including me!) have been eagerly awaiting this bit of news. Republique du Chiffon has recently released a number of their patterns in English including the much lusted after Dominique Jumpsuit.
  • One Puddle Lane released the PDF version of the Miss Ruby Tuesday dress pattern.
  • To celebrate their launch The Foldline have been offering their Sailor Top pattern free to anyone signing up for an account on their site. If you haven't signed up yet make sure to check out their pattern database and groups pages!
  • Kristiann from Victory Patterns released her book 'Boundless Style' this month. It features a number of patterns with mix and match design features.
  • Another gorgeous book release this month is 'London Stitch and Knit' by Leigh Metcalfe. It's a guide to London's best craft shops and haberdasheries and features beautiful photographs taken by Leigh herself.
  • Marilla Walker is starting to do small runs of printed patterns for some of her designs. Keep your eyes peeled for their release if you want one!
  • Jennifer Lauren is also going to be doing a limited run of paper Bronte Top patterns before Christmas; again make sure to get in there quick if you're after one.
  • Gertie from Gertie's Blog For Better Sewing is releasing her third book 'Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book'. Her first two were very popular so I'm sure this will be a big hit too.
  • Megan Nielsen's Briar Top pattern is now available in printed format.
  • Style Arc patterns can now be bought on US Amazon (UPDATE! And UK Amazon too!) and this month they have uploaded quite a number of their designs to Etsy in PDF format. They are also launching a new website with multi-size patterns which is good news for any of you who may have been frustrated by only being able to buy the one size.
  • Waffle Patterns released an increased size range for their Dropje Vest pattern.

Please feel free to add in in the comments anything I may have missed. To finish up this month's fairly epically packed post here's your dose of indie sewing inspiration!



  • Rachel from Sew South London has been sewing up some gorgeous Laurel dresses and I particularly liked this one in a beautiful Japanese print.
  • I love the sheer wool Lisa from Paprika Patterns chose to make this Grainline Hemlock Tee. The oversized shape paired with such a fine fabric is a great combo.
  • I think Mary's is my favourite Appleton Dress I've seen so far! It fits her so well and I love the colour blocking combination she chose.
  • I would never have thought to use the Joan Dress pattern as a top and I absolutely love what Lori has done with it! The check combined with the plain grey neck line and the length she decided to cut it at, gorgeous!
  • Lauren's Stacie Jean Jacket is a thing of beauty! Such a great wardrobe staple and beautifully sewn. Look at all that topstitching! I really need to try a Style Arc pattern.

Thursday, 29 October 2015

Embroidered Raw Silk Vogue 1247 Mini Skirt

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

So this fabric is AWESOME. It was definitely the piece I was most excited about packing in my suitcase as I left the US last month. It's a Rag & Bone embroidered raw silk and is one of the most unusual yardages I have ever laid my hands on despite being only $18 a yard. It's a kind of home dec weight but so tactile because of it's uneven slub and dense embroidery. The white stitching against the vivid indigo blue is beautiful and I think it's the contrast between the uniformity of the embroidered design against the raw, natural feel of the base fabric that drew me to it. Unfortunately it's not/no longer available online but I often find myself drawn to the Rag & Bone yardages so make sure to check them out here. When I spotted this one on the shelves in Mood Fabrics LA I had one of those 'I have no idea what to do with you but I simply must have you' moments. I knew I needed to make something with clean simple lines to showcase the beautiful embroidered design and that amazing border but what...Another customer in the store recommended a cushion (it would make an amazing cushion) but I wanted to wear this. A bag? A dress? A coat? Whatever it was it had to be the perfect project, I had to do it's uniqueness justice.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

In the end I settled on a skirt with a straight hem so I could make use of that stunning border. Vogue's 1247 pattern (designed by Rachel Comey) has been on my pattern wish-list for a while. I've seen so many gorgeous versions of it (including Sallie's leather one on the Mood Sewing Network last year) but Vogue designer patterns in particular are fairly pricey over here in the UK so that's always put me off. Then, just a week after I returned from America, I came across a brand new copy of the pattern in my favourite charity shop in Windsor for just £1! I think it was meant to be.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

I wanted to make sure I got this right and didn't waste my precious yardage so made up a quick muslin in the size 12 as that was the size my measurements indicated. I usually go down a couple of sizes in big 4 patterns but I had heard a rumour that the designer patterns can run a little truer to size and I think this is right here. The 12 was a little roomy so I probably would have cut the 10 but unfortunately I only had the larger size range of the pattern so instead I chose to just use a larger seam allowance on the side seams and reduce the length of the waistband piece by the same amount. I took an extra 3/8" on the double off each side seam, meaning the seam allowances were now 1".

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

Of course in choosing this pattern I had given myself a bit of a challenge; for such a simple looking skirt when worn there's actually quite a few seams involved! My favourite feature of the skirt are those big pockets in the front of the skirt which sit invisibly in the yoke seam. Keeping them invisible within the repeat of the embroidered design across my fabric was a daunting task to say the least. I have never put so much time and effort into cutting and pattern matching but it totally paid off. This skirt is right up there in the list of garments I'm most proud of. I don't know about you but as much as I'm all for experimenting with cheap yardage, working with the good stuff makes me push myself so much harder and also means I will get that un-picker out and redo bits over and over until I know it's the best I can do.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

I began my fairly epic pattern matching challenging with the front skirt piece so I could align the front symmetrically and make use of the border for the hem. I then cut the back skirt pieces so I could make sure the border continued at the same level around the skirt. When working on the back I concentrated on how the centre back would look rather than the side seams as those curved edges were never going to line up perfectly. I'm really pleased with how symmetrical the pattern is down the side seams though and how the criss cross lines do intersect with one another. After cutting the skirt pieces I moved on to the front yoke then back yoke, before cutting the waistband and pocket pieces last. The yoke pieces were my biggest challenge as I really wanted the embroidered design to continue seamlessly across the front and back panels. I am so SO pleased with how it turned out. There were many little victory dances in front of the sewing machine with each seam I sewed!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

I found the easiest way to match the pattern from one piece to the next was to draw it onto my pattern pieces as you can see below. Before starting any cutting I drew the seam allowances onto all pattern pieces as it is important to remember that you are wanting to match the pattern at the seam line, not the edge of the pattern piece. Once I had cut my first piece I folded back the seam allowance on the next pattern piece I wanted to match and laid it over the first matching up the seam line. Then I traced the key lines of the embroidery onto the pattern piece itself so I could simply line these up with the design on the fabric when laying out it out to cut. That's hard to explain in words but hopefully the picture is more helpful!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

I had bought 2 yards of the fabric. I only needed just over a yard for the skirt, despite having to be a little wasteful because of the pattern matching. I've already got another project up my sleeve for what's left over! One thing I would point out about this pattern is that it's very short! I haven't lengthened it here and love this length but the instructions tell you to hem it by 2" and I haven't hemmed it at all. Plus I'm only 5ft 3. I deliberated long and hard about whether to hem this or make use of raw and uneven selvedge edge which doesn't fray. In fact I wore it out to a sewing meet up last weekend un-hemmed so I could ask the advice of other bloggers. The unanimous decision was to leave it as it was! I think the depth of plain border before the embroidery starts really works proportionally with the skirt and I wouldn't want to make it any narrower. The only other change I made to the pattern was to remove the overlap at the waistband join, I just prefer the flat finish when it's edge to edge.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

I used a mid-weight fusible interfacing for the waist band and a bit of white cotton shirting I had left over in my stash to make the binding. I was nervous of this step in the construction as I thought it was pretty skinny for finishing the bulky and uneven seam allowances of my chosen fabric, especially around those tight little corners of the pocket linings. But it turned out pretty great and I love how the plain white looks against the rich blue and bold embroidery! I applied it in two steps and made sure to trim down the raw edges of the main fabric between stages. This pattern needs a lot of binding; it wasn't all that painful applying it but man did it take a long time to make. Binding is the perfect finish for this fabric though as the slubby weave means it likes to fray in big chunks plus it keeps the cut edges of the embroidery nice and secure. I had very little trouble with the embroidery; despite being concerned about the density of some areas and how thick it would get where seam allowances intersected my machine had no trouble at all. I chose a side 90 needle, one up from what I would usually use as I thought an extra bit of strength to get through all those threads wouldn't go amiss.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey Skirt in Rag & Bone Embroidered Raw Silk from Mood Fabrics

This skirt pattern has won another huge fan. I'm thinking my wardrobe could definitely benefit from a denim one, a black one, a corduroy or maybe a fun floral...I've been making quite a lot of repeat or similar patterns recently which has been lovely and satisfying but it was really great to get my teeth stuck into something a little bit more involved and that really pushed my pattern matching skills to the limit. Sometimes slow sewing is the best.

Saturday, 24 October 2015

Silk Sutton Blouses

I actually made these two tops months ago but other projects always seemed to get in the way of getting them photographed and blogged! I don't know why because they've been in regular rotation in my wardrobe being super easy to dress up or down.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse

I purchased the True Bias Sutton Blouse pattern almost as soon as it was released. I own quite a few ready to wear tops like this, they're so easy to grab in the morning and feel comfortable in all day because of the loose yet flattering fit. I'm also a big fan of a v-neckline and easy kimono sleeves. Shortly after buying the pattern I ventured along to the Biddle Sawyer Silks factory sale at their Berwick Street shop (which has since sadly closed). Their silk is top quality and I came away with two pieces which both turned into Suttons; a lightweight maroon hammered silk satin and an amazing black silk morocain. I had a feeling these would both be tops I'd want to wear a lot so would want to be able to throw in the washing machine rather than dry clean or hand wash. Therefore I pre-washed both fabrics in the machine on a gentle cycle at 30 which is how I was the finished tops. I often treat my silks this way and have never had a problem. It did give the morocain a slightly sand-washed finish which I really love.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse and Tropical Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt

For my first version I used the maroon hammered silk (hammered means the fabric has little dimples to it which you can see in the close up shots below). I decided to make use of the matt reverse side and use the satin as the right side for the yoke and the matt side as the right side for the rest of the top. I'm really pleased with this choice as it makes it a little more casual than having it all satin, plus the satin on the inside feel so nice to wear! It's quite a delicate silk so I wanted to give the top some durability by using french seams. The vents at the hem of this design means it's impossible to finish the side seams this way so I decided to omit this feature, level the hem off and finish it the usual way.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse and Tropical Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt

I cut the size 0 despite my measurements falling almost exactly in the size 2 as in the instructions Kelli makes it clear that the design includes a lot of ease and I've got quite a small frame and am short with it I'm not a huge fan of things being massively oversized. The amount of fabric in it still feels a little overwhelming but it's really grown on me. Even with needing to cut the bias binding to face the neckline I managed to get the top out of 1m (of 150cm wide) with some fairly big scraps left over.  I'm really, really pleased with the finish I achieved on the neckline by the way!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse

I made a few alterations to the pattern before cutting my second version from the silk morocain. It's heavier and thicker than other silk crepes so I thought the oversized look would be even more exaggerated in this. I felt like the kimono sleeves on the first version were a little 'wingy' for my liking and this definitely wasn't going to improve in a fabric with more body. I therefore removed 1" along the armhole edges to reduce the length of the shoulder seam and how far the sleeve might stick out from the shoulder. I also removed 1/2" on the double from each side seam and am much happier with this slimmer fit.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse

The silk itself is absolutely gorgeous to sew with and I love the matt finish which wears in nicely with each press and wash, I'd use it all the time if I could afford it! It's one of the most expensive types of plain silk and even on Goldhawk Road I've never found it for less than about £25/m; however I managed to pick up this metre piece for just £6 in the crazy sale!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse

As this is a thicker silk I finished the seams on my overlocker and followed the instructions exactly this time and included the side seam splits and longer back hem. I love this detail for adding a bit of interest to a simple top and really liked the instructions for how to finish this cleanly. I had less success with the neckline binding on this one but am pleased with how skinny and neat it finally ended up. It is a lovely finish but it is very fiddly and tricky to get it to match exactly at the centre front.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse

In the photos I'm wearing the maroon version with my third Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt. I love this pattern! The high waist is flattering and the fit is great on me now I've worked out the length I like. I can whizz one up in a couple of hours too so it's a super satisfying project. I made this one in a tropical print cotton sateen from A to Z fabrics on Goldhawk Road. Both A to Z and A One Fabrics are great places to go if you are after printed cotton sateens in that mid weight with a bit of stretch. The stretch in this one means it does loose a bit of it's close fit towards the end of a days wear but a quick wash or press and it pings back into shape. It's a brighter and bolder print than I would usually gravitate towards but it's actually had a surprising amount of wear; including to the Sew Over It summer party and the renewal of Sally's vows in Vegas! I think using a bright print on a simple and classic separate like this makes it much easier to wear as you can pair it with plain neutrals to tone it down. If you're interested in more details on this pattern my first two versions and a more in depth pattern review are here.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tropical Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt

I've mainly worn both of these blouses thrown of over a pair of skinny jeans with pumps;  they're great for wearing at work all day then still feeling dressed up enough to go out for a drink that evening. I have also worn them both tucked into high waisted skirts and shorts but as you can see from the side on picture below it's not ideal for that because of that deep pleat at the back and therefore the volume of fabric at the waist. I don't mind it but I'm really tempted to make another and remove the centre back pleat, I'm just waiting for the next perfect piece of silk to come along!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Silk True Bias Sutton Blouse and Tropical Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt

Sunday, 18 October 2015

Sewing and Steam

I believe it to be a fairly well known fact amongst home sewers that pressing is one of the most important steps in garment construction. Well pressed seams and features can take a garment from looking homemade to indistinguishable from professional. Steam is probably the most important aspect for this process; it can shape and mould your fabric and also give life to older garments which won't stand for or would be tricky to press.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

Working in theatre I've long appreciated the value of a good steam. All wardrobe departments will house a big stand steamer for sprucing up costumes which won't stand for pressing and to prolong life between trips to the dry cleaner. Steam can give skirts bounce, give shape to a suit sleeve head and perk up bows. I've actually borrowed a little hand held steamer from work before when I wanted to wear a particular rtw dress to a friend's wedding but it was looking rather crumpled and sorry for itself! The fabric would have stood up to an iron if I used a pressing cloth but there were lots of little details that were too fiddly and intricate to press. Now that I sew I can appreciate the benefits of steaming clothes even more. I love working with silk and also love design features like pleats, twists and tucks which can be tricky to get looking their best under an iron.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

So when Tefal asked if I'd like to try their new Access Steam hand held steamer in exchange for a product review I wasn't going to say no! I've taken a bit of time to put it through it's paces on a few different garments and fabrics and have been really pleased with both the results and how easy it is to use. I've found it works best of fabrics with a drape and flow to them; fabrics which you want a nice crisp finish on really need the pressure of an iron to get clean sharp edges but the steamer is still a good option for perking it up if it's been sitting in the wardrobe for a while.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

I know most of us home sewers are limited in space (unless your lucky enough to have one of those beautiful big crafting studios I eye up with envy on Pinterest all the time!) so this is a great tool as it can be squirrelled away in a cupboard until you need it; it's a little bigger than an iron and slightly heavier. The water tank is removable so you just take it out, fill it at the tap and click it back into it's slot at the back of the handle.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

It has a long 3m cord which is great for manoeuvrability and heats up in just 45 seconds, with a light on the back showing you when it's ready. There are two attachments; one a brush to move the fibres of the cloth and allow the steam to penetrate the fabric and the second is a cover which helps prevent any water drops from leaking onto your cloths. These simply clip on and off over the head of the appliance. I was slightly concerned that the bristles of the brush might be a bit too abrasive for delicate fabrics like silk so I'll stick to the other attachment for any precious garments.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

I've actually tried to use my iron as some sort of steamer in the past by holding it up and using blasts of steam but let me tell you that just isn't the same! I had to press the steam blast button over and over on my iron to build up a decent amount of steam. This gadget has a lock which enables you to have a continuous flow of steam. Obviously it's not a replacement for actual cleaning so precious/delicate garments will still need the odd dry clean but it will freshen things up and mean less frequent trips.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

My favourite use for it so far has actually been to prepare fabric before cutting. I've finally decided on the wrap dress pattern which I want to use my precious yardage of New Zealand merino wool for and wanted to crack on with cutting it out last night. I'm always a bit nervous about sewing with wool because most wools are not machine washable and even if you do decide to make a dry clean only garment the fabric still needs to be pretreated as it can shrink so much. The Fabric Store advertises their merino wool as being machine washable so I popped it on a gentle machine cycle and hey presto it came out beautifully. However, I was still wary of it not being shrunk to it's full extent. I've seen various techniques for preshrinking wool on sewing blogs including the tumble dryer and wet towel method (I don't have a tumble dryer), dry cleaning (expensive) or pressing it between wet press cloths then leaving it to rest for a few minutes before moving on to the next section (so time consuming!). So my new hand held steamer saved me a bunch of time/hassle/money. I simply hung up my wool and steamed the heck out of it! It still took a fair amount of time as I had a couple of yards to work through but it was so easy and I only needed to refill the tank once.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

The tank can take a decent amount of water; obviously you don't want it to hold too much or it will make it too heavy to carry and manoeuvre. In fact the amount of water it holds, and therefore the length of use before you need to refill it is pretty much the only noticeable disadvantages between using this and one of the stand steamers at work which can obviously have a big tank in the base and run for some time. At home I'd only ever need to do a couple of garments rather than a whole show of dresses and suits on a daily basis so this is the perfect size.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tefal Access Steam Review

One of the things that I love about sewing is trying out new things, new patterns, new techniques and new fabrics. This means that I have a fairly varied wardrobe and not all the garments I've made can be looked after with a quick spin in the washing machine and a press (I'm looking at YOU boned Oscar de la Renta silk chiffon party dress!). Special occasion dresses such as these which only get a trip out once in a blue moon can often look a little sorry for themselves after a few months in the wardrobe and a good steam is a great way to give them a lift.

The steamer was provided for me free of charge by Lexis on behalf of Tefal in exchange for my review. All options are entirely my own!