November Indie Pattern Update!

I can't believe I'm writing the second to last update of this year already! I spent part of November on holiday and wasn't on the internet much of the time I was away so I'm fairly sure there will be a few holes in my info this month. Please feel free to update me in the comments and I'll edit the post! Black Friday/Small Business Saturday/Cyber Monday happened last week and seemed to be bigger than ever within the sewing community this year. Many indie pattern designers offered huge discounts off their patterns over the weekend; did you pick up any bargains?

New Pattern Companies

• Coco Wawa Crafts launched their very first sewing pattern this month. The Marshmallow Dress is available as a PDF download in either English or Spanish. Its a trapeze style dress with peter pan collar and lightly gathered skirt attached to a dropped waist.
• Another company with their first pattern release this month is Savvy Patterns with the Runway Skirt. Designed by Audrey from Skirt Fixation its a fitted skirt in three lengths with a number of narrow back panels with flippy godets between. The midi length looks so 1930s!

New Patterns

• Sally from Capital Chic Patterns launched her second collection this month. Featuring a number of dresses and shirts in classic yet unique styles designed to push your sewing skills to the next level. I photographed my test version of the Sangria Dress this weekend and can't wait to show you all! It's become my go-to going out dress.
• Style Arc's new patterns this month included the Sadie Set (which is a pull on trouser and tunic) and the Winsome Designer Dress. Their two freebie patterns to choose from with an purchase were also new; the Josie Hoodie has a funnel neck hood and corded hemline and the Rae Tunic Top has on trend split sleeves.
• I love Seamwork Magazine's two new loungewear patterns this month. Both the Monroe Silk Pyjama Trousers and Charlotte Tunic Blouse have an elegant early 20th century feel to them.
• Tessuti released the Isla Top which features dolman sleeves and a back yoke piece. It's designed to be a knit wardrobe staple. Also new from them this month is the Nina Pant which is a classic slim legged style which I've already got my eye on to wear with pumps in spring.
• The Auden Men's Cardigan is the first menswear pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. Influenced by the 1950s its got saddle shoulders and an optional contrast neckline and elbow patches.
• Simple Sew released the Anneka Tunic inspired by the clean lines of Nordic design. I think the deep centre front box pleat and patch pockets would look fab in a wool tweed.
• The Karl Dress from Schneidernmeistern inspired me to make my green merino turtleneck dress. There is something so chic about the combination of high neck, midi length and loose fit.
• Waffle Patterns continued their trend of releasing cleverly designed modern coat patterns with the Bamboo Straight Cut Coat. It's two styles in one with two lengths and pocket options to choose from and either a notched classic collar or high round neck.
• There is so much that appeals to me about Megan Nielsen's new Karri Dress; the challenge of sewing all those panels accurately, the deep v in the back and the variety within the samples (piping, colour blocking and stash-busting patchwork) showing you just how much fun can be had with the pattern.
• I'm just venturing into the world of coat making so any new coat release has me intrigued! I like the way the raglan sleeves on the new Cocoon Coat from Wardrobe By Me extend into a yoke at the back but the timeless cut and features of the recently released Classic Coat also appeal.
• Designer Stitch released the Gypsy Tunic Dress. Its easy to wear with an elasticated waist and comes in four lengths; I really like the high low hem and maxi length with side seam splits.
• I had the pleasure of testing Tilly and the Buttons' latest release; the Cleo Pinafore & Dungaree Dress. Its an ideal balance between practical/casual and yet on trend and pulled together. 
• Itch to Stitch released the Vientiane Skirt. I'm very tempted to give this a whirl as the idea of something fitted around the hips but flared at the hem really appeals. Super classy.
• With the Farrow Dress Jen from Grainline Studio has yet again nailed a simple and utterly wearable pattern that is deceptively well designed with diagonal seaming concealing front pockets.
• I AM Patterns launched the I AM A Star collection. I love the big funnel neck of the Mimosa Cape but the Sirius Top with that pleated back insert really appeals the most.
• I am wishing summer back around all the quicker now I've seen the new Acton Dress from In The Folds. I adore that neckline and the fit of the curved under bust seam. The wrap skirt is a really intriguing variation that I'm keen to try.
• Ready to Sew released the Joseph Jacket. Its a boxy style with lovely details like the little pleats along the raglan sleeve seams.
• At the end of last month Eglantine et Zoe launched the Colibri Blouse; the tulip style cuffs on all three sleeve lengths mimicking the curved wrap hem is a beautiful touch.
• I also missed last month the new collection from Louis Antoinette. There's a competition running to make up a winning version of their new Imagine Dress but it closes on 4th December so you'll have to speed sew to get involved!
• Cashmerette released the Turner Dress and in doing so filled another gap in plus size sewists' wardrobes. Its a staple knit dress with a slightly flared skirt, v neck line and three sleeve lengths to choose from.
• New releases from Kommatia this month included a long cardigan with welt pockets, a ribbed crop top and jersey dress with draped feature at the waist. I really need to make some time to try one of these as I am always drawn to the youthful styles and appeal of a speedy knit project.
• Pauline Alice released the Aldaia Dress which is a knit pattern with three variations, the design details of which can be mixed and match to create endless dress options! The gored skirt is my favourite, so feminine!
• New from The Maker's Atelier is the Seam Detail Dress. Scandi chic yet comfortable with no fastenings and pockets concealed in the waist seam; it must be a winner.
• Pearl Red Moon released her next Boho Banjo pattern End Point; a maxi, bell shaped dress with panelled front. She also updated the instructions and cover art for the Adeline Dress.
• Just in time for Christmas and the perfect gift for a new seamstress Sew Over It have released the Ultimate Pyjama Bottoms pattern download and kits (although the kits are already out of stock!). Perhaps the ideal thing to whip up last minute?
• Vanessa Pouzet released Haut Vol. Currently only available in French its a top featuring a deep opening back with centre back exposed zip and a truly gorgeous cuff detail! 
• New from Snapdragon Studios is the Villager Blouse & Tunic which features a button back and lovely neat cowl collar. It's currently available in their Esty shop as they are working on a new website!
• Swim Style released the Rashie Top/Swim Vest for women. Designed for lycra and high stretch fabrics it can be sewn up as a crop top or hip length and with cap or long sleeves.

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• Waffle Patterns gave us a free downloadable pattern piece for a box pocket with accompanying tutorial. This would work great on any of their fab coat patterns.
• I hit download immediately on Heather Lou's new free pack with 33 topstitching design templates for the back pockets of the Closet Case Patterns Ginger or Morgan Jeans. What a great idea.

Sew-Alongs

• Sew House Seven have been running a sew-along on their blog throughout November for their popular Tea House Top & Dress. This pattern is high on my list for Spring/Summer sewing.
• A sew-along is in progress for the Grainline Studio quilted Tamarack Jacket and as soon as thats over they'll be starting one for the recently released Farrow Dress.
• Jenny from Cashmerette has started a sew-along for her new Turner Dress over on her blog.

Upcoming!

• I'm itching for the cold weather to disappear before it's even really hit so I can make up a Kelly Anorak from Closet Case Patterns so I was very excited to spot Heather Lou's tips for underlining in flannel for extra warmth. She is planning a lining expansion pack to come out in the spring.
• Spotted on Instagram was a call for testers for Designer Stitch's up coming pattern - the Bridget Blouse.

As I said I'm sure I've fallen a bit out of the loop with the news this month so please do add in anything I've missed in the comments and check them out too. It'll be a group effort this month! I've needed a little kick start to my sewing motivation over the weekend with post holiday blues kicking in and these indie sewing makes from you guys have sure helped!

• Katie's velvet Martha Dress is exactly what I want to be wearing right now! The velvet, the print and the seventies style all together are too much to handle!
• Ping's Tosti Jacket is one of those projects that you think no one is ever possibly going to think that that's handmade! The plaid lining, fur trim and all those professional looking design details...beautiful stuff!
• Also inspiring my coat sewing is Jasika's pink Kelly Anorak. Maybe it's good that I've got to wait a while for the appropriate weather for this lightweight a coat as it will give me some time to mull my own choices over! This has made me see the pattern in a whole new light.
• I've got a bit of a merino wool addition going on this winter and Kelli's festive red merino Esme Maxi Cardi has got me desperate to get my hands on more! Great match of pattern and fabric.
• Totally out of season in my neck of the woods but bookmarked for next summer's sewing queue is Rachel's Holly-Anna hybrid dress. I would never have thought to pair that bodice and skirt and it's fab in that print. Plus the halter neck looks ace.

Genoa Tote in Bamboo Print from Fashion Formula

I've got a project slightly different to my normal dressmaking to share with you today, it's a bag and a fun print! The pattern is the Genoa Tote which Pattern Fantastique released in collaboration with Blogless Anna a couple of months back and the bamboo print fabric was sent to me by fabric printing company Fashion Formula; more on that in a moment! It looks like a super simple tote but there's actually more to it than it may seem, being fully lined with a zipped pouch and key clip inside. You end up with a very professionally finished bag and you can tell that the best method for construction has been well thought through. For example as one of the final steps the box corners of the lining and exterior are secured together inside to keep the lining from shifting around which is a lovely touch. The top edge of the bag is faced and under-stitched so you have a nice clean top edge.

I had great fun picking a fabric from the Fashion Formula website. You can create your own prints on the site and as well as fabric they'll print on wallpaper, gift wrap and even accessories such as cushions, aprons and tea towels although I'm guessing as sewing addicts like me you'd prefer to sew your own! I can't review the custom design service as I opted to choose from the database of prints designed by over 500 independent designers. The database is really easy and clear to navigate; there's a search function or you can filter results based on a keyword or colour. The biggest difficulty you'll have is making a choice from the huge selection! Once you've chosen your print there are around 35 fabric bases to choose from including a variety of silks and cottons as well as stretch fabrics and even speciality fabrics like velvet and fleece. Fabrics are available in a 20cm x 20cm sample size, as fat quarters or in metres. If ordering in metres it's worth noting that the fabric bases vary in width so check carefully what yours says. Mine was 140cm wide and that's the width of the print, the base fabric was actually 150cm wide with a white border along each selvedge.

My exterior fabric is 'Bamboo' printed on the canvas base as I wanted something hardwearing. The pattern actually recommends using three fabrics; one for the exterior, one for the lining and one for the zipped pouch inside. I was trying to use only fabrics from my stash with the fabric from Fashion Formula and didn't have anything that went quite right so I decided to use the exterior fabric for the pocket too and some duck egg cotton poplin for the lining. You could have great fun mix and matching prints and fabric bases on a project like this and I think a poplin lining in a tropical print with a striped pocket would have been exciting. I'd really like to make a completely leather one at some point as I think I'd get a lot of use out of it. Marilla's two leather versions of the pattern are really inspiring!

The canvas is an ideal weight and quality for the project (the bag is actually deigned with denim in mind and this canvas has very similar qualities). It has a crispness to it and is nice and tough but with a soft and smooth hand. I gave it a good hot pre-wash before sewing and didn't notice any shrinkage which I think is really good in a custom printed fabric as you don't want your print getting distorted or changing in size. After the pre-wash I have noticed a slight softness in the surface texture which is nice but I am wondering if with further washes it would start to go a bit fluffy and loose the density of colour in the print. As it's a bag it won't be seeing all that much washing but I will report back! Being a tightly woven cotton it sewed up and pressed really beautifully. I wasn't expecting to enjoy sewing a bag as much as I do a garment but found it a really satisfying project to get absorbed in.

The most tricky thing I found about this project was actually getting together all the supplies! The zip I actually had in my stash and is one of a selection I picked up in SIL Thread in the NYC garment district earlier this year as I couldn't believe how cheap they were! You could easily do without the swivel key clip but I really liked this feature so was determined to locate one! I tracked one down at MacCulloch & Wallis but the opening was smaller than the pattern requests so I made my fabric loop piece narrower to work with it. I might add key clips to all my bags now; so useful!

Attempting to find leather straps turned into a bit of a saga and as you can see was a quest I gave up on. Pattern Fantastique do actually sell leather handle kits at a more reasonable price but sadly for me they are based in Australia so that wasn't an option. I'd highly recommend it if it is an option for you though! I found some leather strapping in MacCulloch & Wallis but it was all either too skinny or too expensive. The pre-made bag handles by Prym are also very pricey. I did consider purchasing some leather to make my own straps as there are some excellent leather merchants in London (my favourites being Walter Reginald, JT Batchelor and Alma) but most of them only sell whole skins so that turns into another expensive option. As I had chosen a nice robust fabric for the exterior I decided to make some matching straps out of it. My straps are an inch wide and I cut strips of two times the width plus a 5/8" seam allowance on each side. I then sewed the raw long edges together right sides together, trimmed the seam allowance and turned them through to the right side. I then turned the ends under by an inch and topstitched around every side. I attached the straps with rivets as the pattern recommends for the leather straps as I liked the look. I was worried that the might be too tough a treatment on the cotton rather than leather but as it's fairly thick and I was riveting through six layers it's worked really well.

I made this before I made the Aeolian Tee I posted last week so it was my first experience of a pattern from Pattern Fantastique. The instructions are VERY thorough and there was a lot I liked about them, particularly how they are broken down into very brief points. It makes it impossible to go wrong really! There are lots of instructions to clip corners and grade to reduce bulk which I like and even tips on when to change needles and machine feet for inserting the zip and working with different fabrics. The assembly of the PDF was a little different to what I am used to. There were no diamonds or little squares to line up, you just had to line up the borders and the pattern lines themselves and there is a diagram on each page showing where that page fits into the pattern as a whole. As I was using the medium size I wasn't sure if I'd need to print every page but a diagram of the layout of the pattern across the sheets isn't provided. In this case I did need to print all of the 21 pages but when it came to the Aeolian Tee when I made the shortest length I didn't need about 12 of the pages so took some time looking through the PDF to work out what I needed to print. For this pattern the printer scale test square is on page 18 and as I like to print this page individually first to check the size I found it a bit frustrating to have to scroll through the whole PDF and find it.

All in all I'm really happy with how this combination of fabric and pattern has worked out. It definitely feels like more of a summer print but I'm constantly using canvas totes for carting around work stuff and this is the perfect size to hold a folder, script, notebook and my laptop! I made the medium size and it's very roomy, the large would be huge and great for a beach bag. It would make a great Christmas present; the interior pocket and key clip detail really set it apart from a standard handmade tote and you could pick or design prints appropriate for each recipient at the click of a button!

Disclaimer: Both the pattern and fabric were provided free of charge by Pattern Fantastique and Fashion Formula respectively but the opinions are all my own!

Black Friday Sewing Sales!

The sewing world seems to have gone mad with Black Friday Sales this year! My Instagram and inbox are full of them! I'm trying to show some restraint this time around but thought I'd share what I found for those of you who are on the hunt for a bargain, partly in the hope that it'll help me resist. Plus compiling this post kept me occupied at the airport in Russia! It's a little late in the day but luckily the majority of sales are running all weekend and even into Cyber Monday too so here's a little run down of what I've spotted so far. Do be careful with the listed end dates and times; don't forget the time difference!

Sewing Patterns & Kits

• By Hand London has 25% off all patterns with the code TURKEYLURKEY until Sunday. The new Alix Dress is going to be hard for me to resist!
• Sew Over It have 30% off all patterns and kits using the code BLACKFRIDAY
• Melissa from Fehr Trade is offering a free copy of her Steeplechase Leggings pattern with any purchase of her limited run of Print Club fabric kits
• Tilly and the Buttons has 25% off until Sunday 11.59pm GMT using the code BLACKFRIDAY
• All of the Measure Twice Cut Once PDF patterns are reduced for the whole weekend
• Cashmerette has 25% off kits (or just fabric if you'd prefer) using the code GIVETHANKS until end of play on Monday 
• Pauline Alice has 15% off all paper and PDF patterns until Sunday with the code BLACK
• OhhhLulu is offering 20% off all her sewing patterns (and 10% off her lingerie and eye masks) with the code LOVEANDKISSES until Monday 
• There's 50% off ALL Simplicity and New Look sewing patterns on their official website now
• Thread Theory has 50% off all PDF patterns until 10pm on Monday PST
• Papercut Patterns are offering 30% off paper patterns along with their usual free delivery using the code BlackFriday until Monday 
• Paprika Patterns has 25% off all patterns until Monday. No code needed! 
• Theres 25% off all patterns at Schnittchen with the code SEWBLACKFRIDAY
• Sprout Patterns has 10% off everything online with the code THANKYOU until noon on Monday 
• Seamstress Erin has 20% off all patterns until Monday with the code thanksgiving2016
• Use the code GIVETHANKS16 for 20% off at Grainline Studio all weekend; excluding the Stowe bag and printed copies of the Farrow Dress and Tamarack Jacket
• Deer & Doe have 20% off all patterns until 6am on Saturday EST. No code required! 
• Megan Nielsen has 30% off everything but pattern bundles all weekend with the code BLACKFRIDAY2016
• Republique du Chiffon have 15% off the entire site with the code BLACKFRIDAY
• How To Do Fashion has 25% off with the code BLACK
• Fish Petals Do Fly are offering 25% off all their hat patterns until Monday with the code BLACK FISH
• Fabrics for Sale have a 20% discount on offer using the code BLFRI20 until Monday
• Itch to Stitch has 30% off all patterns until Monday with the code black
• Blank Slate Patterns have deals running until Monday. Use the code THANKS2016 to get two kids patterns for $10 or the code GIVING2016 to get two women's patterns for $15
• Winter coats and jackets are 50% off at Knipmode
• The Foldline are offering 30% off the PDF version of their recently released Billie Collection with the code BLACKFRIDAY. Valid until midnight on Monday
• Eglantine et Zoe have 15% off until midnight tonight (Friday) with the code BF15
• Theres 30% off all printed and digital patterns in the Colette Patterns online store, including Seamwork styles. No code necessary and valid until Sunday
• All patterns from Wardrobe By Me are reduced by $2.00 until Monday. Plus if you use the code iloveblackfriday you get an additional 15% off your order
• Closet Case Patterns have 20% off all paper and PDF patterns using the code THANKSGIVER up until Sunday at midnight EST
• Maison Fleur is offering 30% off your entire purchase all weekend using the code gobblegobble30 at the checkout
• There is 25% off all Hot Patterns right now! No codes needed and the sale ends on Monday at midnight EST
• Use the code GIVETHANKS16 at Straight Stitch Designs for 25% off patterns until Monday
• Waffle Patterns have 20% off all patterns until Sunday. No discount code required
• Charlotte Kan is offering 40% off orders using the code HIGHFIVE until Cyber Monday

Fabrics and more! 

• Girl Charlee UK & Europe are offering 20% off all fabrics on their website with up to 60% off sale fabrics until Monday
• Eternal Maker has 30% off everything on their website 
• Fabric printing company Fashion Formula are offering 35% off all fabrics, homeware and accessories on Friday only with the code BLACKFRIDAYFF
• One of my favourites The Cloth House has 20% off all cut fabric in their Soho Store and Camden warehouse shop; Friday only
• Stoff Stil have a number of deals on their site or Friday only including discounted machines! 
• Mood Fabrics has a big sale on starting today! Up until Sunday you get 10% off any purchase with 20% off if you spend $100 or more. Some exclusions apply
• As well as discount off their patterns Fabrics for Sale have 20% off across all their fabrics using the code BLFRI20 until Monday
• Dragonfly Fabrics have 15% off site wide until Sunday. Use the code BLACKFRI and get free shipping too! 
• Use the code BLACK FRIDAY on Fabric Godmother to get 10% off all fabrics including those just in
• Sew Essential have a wide range of offers running including 50% off Simplicity, New Look, Burda and Kwik Sew patterns and even deals on machines!
• Calico Laine has 10% off site wide until Saturday at 9am with the code BLACKFRIDAY20
• Spend 45 Euros to get 15% off at Pretty Mercerie with the code PMBLACKFRIDAY until Saturday at midnight 
• Imagine Gnats has 25% off all fabrics, patterns and notions in their online store until the end of Monday with the code 25off
• Blackbird Fabrics have various discounts running until Sunday at 11.59PM PST. 25% off all regular price fabrics, 15% off sale fabrics and 10% off bra kits
• Miss Matatabi has up to 70% off fabrics in her online store running right through until Tuesday 29th. I've been after some Nano Iro double gauze for a reaaaallly long time now...how am I going to resist?!
• Made By Oranges have 50% off their sewing magazines My Image and B-Trendy as well as any sewing patterns in their store using the code BLACKFRIDAY. Friday only

Green Merino Neenah Dress

As you read this I'm freezing my butt off in wintery Russia and at the time I've scheduled this to post I should be on a train out of Moscow on to my next adventure in St Petersburg. To prepare for the cold I honed in on the merino wool I've had waiting in my stash for just such an opportunity. Way back in March The Fabric Store got in touch with me when they first started offering their international shipping from New Zealand to see if I'd like to try out some of their products. I'd absolutely fallen in love with this company when I visited their LA store in September last year so I was quite honestly hopping up and down with excitement at the opportunity. If you aren't already familiar with this company they are known for being one of the only stockists/probably the biggest stockist of New Zealand merino wools along with beautiful silks, rayons and linens. The section of prints and colours in the LA branch blew me away, whoever does their buying has excellent taste.

Top of my shopping list was of course the merino which is nigh on impossible to get here in the UK. Its not cheap but sold at a very reasonable price by The Fabric Store considering the quality of the fabric. Its so soft against the skin, is amazing at regulating body heat and is also surprisingly fine with a delicate drape depending on the type of knit you choose. If that wasn't enough it dyes amazing vivid colours and can be machine washed (I use a 30 degree wool cycle). You do of course have to factor shipping costs from New Zealand but if you order over $150 (currently about £85 and very easy to do!) its free and pleasantly speedy. I was very excited by all the different varieties of knit the merino is available in and eventually selected the Premium Merino (which is the standard medium weight) in Malachite Green and Silver along with a piece of Black Merino Sweatshirting. You'll be seeing what I made with the latter two soon.

I've managed to keep this wool waiting for months as a) we were heading into warmer weather here in the northern hemisphere and b) I was paralysed by the fear of picking the wrong project for them and wasting the precious yardage. The idea to use the green piece for a turtleneck style dress came from Clare over at Sew Dixie Lou. She brought the new Karl Dress pattern from Schneidernmeistern to my attention and said she thought it would really suit me (even though I think she would totally rock it!). To be honest the thought of wearing a dress like this wouldn't have even crossed my mind as being on the short side I tend to shy away from midi length skirts and I'm not the biggest fan of a turtleneck as I find them irritating when they are too tight/close around the neck. Clare had noticed the pattern on Style of Constructing's Instagram feed and seeing those pics suddenly changed my mind! I hadn't been following her before and now I'm a wee bit obsessed with her chic minimalist style.

Despite it looking very similar this isn't actually the Karl Dress that I was inspired by! I was having a browse through the collection of Seamwork patterns looking at ideas for what to do with  the rest of my Merino when I spotted the Neenah Dress. It's a very similar style to the Karl, just closer fitting and a little shorter. The Karl has a very relaxed fit which I was a bit uncertain about as I thought in the longer length it might overwhelm my petite frame a little so I decided to go with Neenah but go up a size in that for a looser fit. It actually comes up much longer than it looks in the sample pics (even factoring in my lack of height) so I've got the midi length that I liked about the Karl anyway!

I cut the size small which is a little larger than my measurements and I used near enough all of the 2m of fabric I had. This knit is reasonably lightweight so I'm glad I went for the more relaxed fit as I think it would have clung in a way I don't like otherwise. I could not be happier with the collar which is the perfect size of turtle neck for me. It's loose and soft so doesn't irritate me to wear at all. I've folded it down on itself in these pictures and it holds an nice soft shape and depth really well.

Seamwork PDF patterns frustrate me a little as I think the layout of them could be better thought through. As I was cutting one of the smaller sizes at least 5 or 6 of the pages I printed I didn't even need and I had huge offcuts from the rest. That being said this is a cracking pattern, so satisfying as it is really quick and relies on techniques that I am well used to by now. The instructions are great and I've ended up with a garment I'm delighted with. With Colette patterns I usually have some fitting issues in the shoulder/upper chest/sleeve head area but this is absolutely spot on. Perhaps I should always go up a size above the waist with their blocks?

I love the skinny little cuffs. It makes a really nice change to either the common wider cuff or turned up and twin needled hem. They looked really tiny once I had assembled them and i was a bit concerned that I had done something wrong but of course they are just going around your wrist not your upper arm. I was expecting to have to shorten the length of the sleeves as that's pretty standard for me and the dress itself came up long but these are actually sewn just as intended. Spot on.

I wasn't 100% happy with the way my first merino dress turned out last winter as I chose a more complex pattern and don't think I had the experience handling knits that was required to make the most out of it. Now I am used to responding to the stretch of the fabric I had no problems and can see how beautiful it is to work with. It can be slightly tricky to cut as things shift and stick to themselves but it responds to heat and steam in a wonderful way and I had no trouble with curling edges. I used a size 80 ballpoint needle with a narrow zig zag stitch on my regular machine and finished all the edges on the overlocker. The hem is turned up and twin needled. The construction methods in the instructions are exactly as I would normally expect for a knit garment; the sleeves are set in flat before the side seams are sewn up and the collar, cuffs and hem completed. The only thing I did differently/additionally was to stabilise the shoulder seams with a little bit of twill tape.

I'm so pleased that I took the plunge and made this dress before I hit the Russian winter; being wrapped in merino is just what I need! Its an ideal fabric for travelling to cold climates as whilst snuggly and warm they aren't bulky knits and won't take up much room in a case. Plus being a knit it won't wind up looking badly crumpled. I tried really hard to save all three merino garments for my trip but resisting for a couple of weeks proved too much of a challenge! I'm relieved to report that they all washed up beautifully and are hopefully keeping me toasty overseas.

I really enjoyed sewing all of the projects I settled on using my precious bits of merino for and could not be happier with the choices that past me made all those months ago! I had just enough of each piece for the project I thought it would match best with. I can't wait to get my hands on more.

Gabardine Marigold Trousers and Comfy Tops

One of the joys of being self employed is that I often get to work from home or have a bit of down time between contracts to stay at home and sew! If I'm working at home I'm sure going to take advantage of the opportunity to dress as comfortably as possible but I'm a big believer in keeping a getting up and dressed as if you were going out to work routine anyway as I think this really helps with productivity. Plus answering the door to the postman in PJs at 3 in the afternoon on a Wednesday (yes guilty!) isn't ideal. I decided I needed to top up my secret pyjamas, that part of my wardrobe that is super comfortable yet still looks somewhat pulled together. For this month's Mood Sewing Network project I chose to whip myself up a little three piece outfit using classic fabrics in neutral colours and choosing garments with classic minimalist cuts which I could get a lot of wear out of.

I've had the Marigold Jumpsuit & Trousers from Tilly and the Buttons waiting to be sewn up for a while now and ordered this black wool gabardine specifically to make up the trousers. I've never worked with gabardine before and can't believe I haven't given it a whirl until now. It's got a really beautiful smooth hand and has a high end feel. It really makes these trousers in my opinion. It wasn't quite what I expected when it arrived as i's quite heavy and therefore has some body and crispness to it. However, once it was washed and I started sewing I realised it was absolutely perfect for this style. Its a great bottom weight and has the most beautiful drape.

I cut the size 3 and used about 1.2 yards of fabric. I ended up taking 2" off the length and used 1" for the hem. Looking at the pictures I'm wondering if I should take off a little more and go for a slightly cropped style but I've also worn them rolled up which I quite like the look of. I chose to use the side with the visible twill weave as the right side although the underside has a lovely flat finish too.

They are a little bit roomy in the crotch and bum so I think I'll take a little bit of length out of the crotch curve next time as we are heading a little towards hammer pants! I was unsure about how I'd feel about the elasticated waist as I've never been a major fan of how this feels and looks but it's great on these. I think the thick elastic and construction of the waistband really help this to work and it's very comfortable. Doesn't do that weird shifting about and riding up thing that sometimes stretch waistbands do. When I first put them on after completed the waistband I thought they had come up way too big but then I remembered Tilly's tip from making her Fifi Pyjamas about steaming the elastic to help in spring back into shape after it's been stretched out when sewn in. This made such a massive difference and now they are pretty much spot on!

I really enjoyed sewing these because they have enough details to be interesting to assemble yet are straightforward with thorough instructions so I've ended up with a garment that I feel is really well sewn. The biggest challenge I had to deal with was the fraying of the gaberdine! There were little hairy fibres all over the place. To combat this I overlocked all the raw edges. Apart from that it sewed up beautifully; I used a standard size 80 needle and a medium heat iron as it does have a tendency to get that shine on it if ironed too hot.

Pattern-wise the only thing I'm not sure about are the pleats on the waist at the front. They're really small so are not obviously pleats and almost look like they could be a dart sewn badly. This style is a bit of a departure from the norm for me so it's taking a bit of getting used to but I'm slowly falling in love because they feel so chic in this fabric. Now I'm thinking I'd totally wear these out with a silky little top and some killer heels.

The camisole top is the Ogden Cami from True Bias which I've made multiple times now and I shared two versions of earlier this week so I won't go into detail on the pattern. With the first two I had made the most of the minimalist style to showcase some special fabrics but what my wardrobe really needs is neutral basics. The pattern is best suited to a fabric with a soft drape and when this is required I always jump on viscose/rayon whenever I see it. This midnight navy slubbed rayon woven really intrigued me when I searched the Mood Fabrics site and I could not be more delighted with it. Its slightly heavier than other rayons I've worked with in the past and has this gorgeous feel of a raw silk with a matt finish. Its a basic that remains interesting and is just up my street. I think I'm going to be ordering some in the other available colours!

I thought I might want another comfortable layer to throw on over the top and knew I had this lovely Italian grey periwinkle linen jersey waiting to be sewn which I ordered from Mood a few months ago after loving using linen for my Bowline Sweater earlier this year. I was thinking of making a drapey little cardigan but spontaneously decided I'd prefer a pull on sweater style top. Having a browse through my PDF pattern collection reminded me that I hadn't yet tried the Aoelian Tee Shirt/Dress pattern from Pattern Fantastique and it looked like it would be a good choice for the fabric.

It was my first time trying a Pattern Fantastique pattern and I was really impressed with how in depth the instructions were; the illustrations are particularly good and you could almost follow them without reading. I did feel like some of the instructions were overly complex now I'm used to putting together garments that are relatively straightforward like this. I really liked the inclusion of small pieces of knit interfacing around the neckline (and that pattern pieces were provided for these) as in general linen knits don't have the most fantastic recovery and could be prone to stretching out in this area.

I was a bit nervous about the neckline binding method. There seemed to be a lot of steps and you have to trim it down both in width and length before attaching. I'm used to patterns where you just cut the piece, sew it into a loop then distribute it around the neckline but this has you attach it open and judge the stretch as you go the sew up the end as you would with a bias binding on wovens. I am relived to say it turned out fab and I really like the width of it. It's fairly easy to achieve nice clean finishes in a linen knit (as long as you're careful not to stretch it too much!) as it is very well behaved and presses beautifully.

I love the inclusion of a back facing piece. It serves no real purpose, just an extra design detail. I would recommend basting it in place first as the instructions suggest as if you are using a twin needle you will be stitching it from the right side and that curve will be really hard to keep even without a line to follow. I also basted the turned up hem and cuffs in place before twin needling as they are quite deep so following a marking on my machine to keep the depth even wasn't going to work. I love how deep these hems are. Its another unique little detail that sets this pattern apart.

It turned out pretty much exactly as I'd hoped and is lovely to wear because of the breathable natural fibres. However, I think a fabric with a bit more body would make the best out of this pattern, particularly if you're going to make the longer length. Maybe a sweater knit, ponte or even a scuba or neoprene for a more dramatic look.

A Pair of Ogden Camisoles

I'm finally getting around to sharing with you what is possibly my favourite pattern of the summer. The True Bias Ogden Cami was released back in July alongside the Emerson Cropped Pant/Shorts. I bought it immediately as it was at a time when I was giving the holes in my handmade wardrobe a lot of thought and the one RTW garment I was still wearing repeatedly was little camisoles. This design was very close in style to my favourite Topshop cami so it was a no brainier of a purchase. Since then I've made these two, have got another to show you later this week as part of this month's Mood Sewing Network post plus I've been working on a hack of the pattern this week. I think that's worth the $10 and time assembling the PDF don't you?!

This is exactly the kind of design I need to be making more of for my wardrobe, minimalist and classic with a host of outfit opportunities. The simple design plus the fact that it needs less than a yard of fabric makes it the perfect garment to showcase a particularly special piece of fabric which is exactly what I did. I picked up a yard of this amazing paper chain print silk at Mood Fabrics in the garment district when I visited NYC earlier this year. The unusual print was what drew me to it initially but when I touched it I was sold. Its a luscious thick and heavy silk with a beautiful subtle sheen, similar in weight to a 4 ply crepe or silk morocain. It was a perfect match for this top as the delicate drape combined with the heavier weight skims the body in such a flattering way. Not to mention how luxurious it feels against the skin.

There was a weird line dissecting the paper chain print right in the middle of the yard I bought. It must just be where the pattern repeat starts again. I noticed it when I washed it but then completely forgot when cutting out so of course it has ended up right across my chest. Luckily the print is so busy it isn't all the noticeable. If any of you remember me saying a few posts ago about how there's always one thing not quite right with every garment; that's it with this one. Frustrating because I'm so delighted with this garment otherwise.

The second cami may look familiar to you as I was wearing it in my post about my first pair of handmade jeans. This one presented a slightly different challenge to the first as I decided to make it in velvet. I love all the velvet that's in the shops at the moment and the idea of wearing it as part of a more casual look to mix up the textures a bit. I chose this rich fudge brown rayon velvet so I could do just that; the jewel tones and brighter colours all seem a bit more glam to me. As the back of the velvet is not quite so nice against the skin I decided to fully line it rather than use the half lining/facing pieces that are provided with the pattern. I used a piece of delicate brown silk satin I for some reason had lurking in my stash. Some things are just meant to be!

Velvet might be a fabric some people shy away from because of the shifty pile but if you choose a good quality one and take your time you should be ok. The biggest problem I had with this one is how much it shed fluff everywhere when cut! I used plenty of pins to control it when sewing and pressed fairly lightly using another piece of velvet facing up against it underneath to protect the pile. Make sure you cut all your pieces facing in the same direction as the nap of the pile shines a different colour when brushed in opposite directions.

I cut the size 4 and made adjustments whatsoever with the exception of shortening the straps by 2". This is really easy to do as the perfect point to test the strap length is highlighted in the instructions. They are attached at the front then almost the entire neckline is sewn before you feed the straps through at the back and baste them in place so you can try the top on. With my first version I only shortened them by 1" to begin with but then realised when I finished the top that I still felt a little exposed at the front. It was easy enough to go back in and unpick them at the back to feed them through an extra inch. To begin with I thought that the strap pieces looked super short so couldn't believe I needed to take any length off but they actually begin higher up your chest and back than you think because of that beautiful curved neckline of the bodice pieces.

The instructions are super. Great illustrations and nice and thorough including techniques such as stay stitching and under-stitching to give you the best results. I was concerned about getting that neckline and the straps tidy and sitting right but it stays put perfectly when worn. It might look super simple to put together because of the minimalist design and low number of pattern pieces but it does require a bit of handling skill, especially if you're using a slippery or delicate fabric. The under-stitching along the neckline is a little fiddly and the whole neckline needs to be sewn very accurately to achieve the lovely shape. You definitely need to clip and trim those seam allowances throughly to get a clean finish. On both tops I chose to trim my seam allowances with pinking sheers; partly to prevent fraying but also because if you trim quite closely the zig zag edge can act almost like little notches in itself and allow the seam allowances to spread around the curves.

At the side seams I used french seams on the silk and also the satin lining of the velvet version. The velvet is too bulky to do a french seam on so I overlocked the seam allowances together to control the  shedding. On both versions I pressed the seams on the shell towards the back and the facing/lining towards the front to reduce the bulk at the armhole that would be created by pressing them all the same way.

I did consider using my rolled hem foot for all the silk hems including the facing but I wasn't sure I wanted slightly fluted effect this often gives. Plus I've had a nightmare trying to rolled hem across french seams in the past and these were not the finest silk to persuade through that tricky little foot in the first place! I followed the instructions to hem by turning up by 1/4" twice. As the hemline is slightly curved you might find this made a little easier by stitching 1/4" away from the raw hem to begin with. This gives you a guide to press up along but the tightness of the stitches also helps you ease the fabric in along the curve.

As those of you who are aware of what the weather is like here in the UK at the moment these pictures were taken a little while ago! Bring back sandal weather please. Despite the winter chill that has descended these are still getting a lot of wear layered under cardigans and snuggly jumpers. Did you know that silk can be surprising warm? It has natural temperature regulating properties and as its so fine its the perfect winter under layer as it won't add much bulk. I think silk gets a bit of a bad rep sometimes for being difficult to care for and work with but I love it and use it as often as I can. Yes it's not all that cheap but its incredibly robust and you will produce garments which are in your wardrobe for years. Both of these have been washed and worn numerous times and look as good now as they did when I finished them. In case your interested I wash all my silks on a 30 degree delicate cycle in the machine and line dry. Just make sure to pretreat your fabric in the same way before cutting and if you're concerned maybe just wash a small swatch to begin with.

I feel like I could make these beauties in my sleep now and can definitely have one finished in a few hours. Every time I look through my stash now I see pretty much every fabric as the perfect Ogden Cami. I reckon the handful I've made so far will cover every eventuality for now though; surely the paper chain print is perfect for a New Year's Eve celebration!

Pattern Testing: Cleo Pinafore & Dungaree Dress from Tilly and the Buttons

Tilly and the Buttons has just released the Cleo Pinafore & Dungaree Dress which I had the pleasure of testing a little while back. The dress shown in the pictures here is my test version so might be ever so slightly different from the final pattern released but it's pretty close and I'm really chuffed with it I so thought it worth sharing! I said a big fat yes to testing this baby when Tilly asked as it's a style that is all over the shops this season and definitely something I wanted to give a whirl as utility style it seems somewhat suited to the practicalities of my job. I've already seen a tonne of inspiring versions all over Instagram that have got me inspired to try this out in a multitude of fabrics and lengths. With mix and match pocket choices on this pattern too the options appear to be endless.

When I first received the pattern, however, all I could envision was a standard, classic denim pinafore. As luck would have it I had just enough indigo denim lurking in my stash. It's the darker version of the denim I used for my McCalls shirtdress (still one of my most worn garments to date and the fabric has held up to washing and wearing beautifully). I bought it from Unique Fabrics on Goldhawk Road. It's a kind of mid-weight non stretch denim which is nice for this as it still has quite a soft hand and moves nicely when worn but I would like to try a version in a thick and heavy denim with nice chunky topstitching too. I'm looking forward to this denim washing out in a similar way to my dress as that has a really lovely worn around the seams look now.

I chose to make the mini length version as while the knee length looks super cool with that front split I'm not sure I could quiet pull it off. Having said that as I type I can't get the idea of a burgundy corduroy midi length one out of my head so we'll see what happens! I cut the size 3 which is about an inch bigger than my measurements on the size chart and easily got it out of one metre of my denim. i hemmed it exactly as instructed without altering the length and it is spot on for me but I wouldn't want it any shorter and I'm only 5ft 3". The length will of course be affected by how much you shorten your straps but it's worth bearing in mind that you may want to add length if you're tall.

I like how slim fitting it is around the hips as that feels quite contemporary and a little less nineties! I wouldn't want the sides to scoop down any lower as there are already a couple of tops in my wardrobe that I can't wear with it for fear of flashing a bit of flesh at the hip! I did play around with making the straps even shorter to rectify this but then it felt like the dress wasn't sitting right. The straps are a generous length so if you're tall I wouldn't worry about adding anything to these. Mine are folded back by a good 3.5" and I'd take a bit of this off next time. I stitched my straps down with two lines of stitching; one at the end of the strap and one just above the clip to hold it securely in place.

There's a lot I love about this pattern like the deep topstitched hem and the pocket placement which is spot on. There's a also a lot of room to make it your own in the details. The only thing I am wary about with this trend is looking too much like I've dressed like a child as I'm aware I'm small with a bit of a baby face as it is. For that reason I opted to use the dungarees clips rather than buttons to fasten the straps. I'm not sure why...the metal hardware just seems to have an edgier workwear vibe I guess. The only thing I'm slightly dissatisfied about with this project is that the pattern calls for 30-35mm dungaree clips and despite hunting high and low across London I could only find 40mm. I thought maybe I'd get away with it but they do look too big for the straps. I'd definitely recommend going for the smallest size you can get your hands on as I think a strap that fills the clip would look best.

My interior is all overlocked to finish, which was a little tricky getting into the point at the top of the back facing but I got there in the end! I did faux flat felled seams as recommend in the pattern by overlocking the raw edges of the seams allowances together before pressing them to one side and topstitching. I chose a contrasting golden brown thread for my topstitching but stuck with normal thread rather than the thicker topstitching thread you can buy as I wanted the effect to remain subtle. I did two lines of topstitching down the centre front back and side seams just because I like the look of it and think it ties it in with the pocket stitching. To keep my two lines neat and even I aligned the seam line with the gap in the centre of my sewing machine foot for the first pass, then with the outside of my foot for the second. If you do want to use thicker thread to make a feature of your topstitching the best tip I've got for you there is to keep normal thread in your bobbin and just use the topstitching thread in the needle. Play around with the tension on a scrap before you start and that will really help stop your machine getting snarled up.

Tilly's patterns are in general aimed at beginner or advancing beginner seamstresses and I think this is absolutely perfect for that. It gives you the opportunity to experiment with some fairly easy to handle bottom weight fabrics and is also the ideal thing to try out your first bit of topstitching on. There's not too much of it and quite a lot of straight lines. You don't have to deal with too many layers of fabric at once either which I found to be the most difficult part of topstitching my Ginger Jeans. If you've got some simple dressmaking projects under your belt and are looking for something a little different this could be just the thing. The accuracy needed to sew this pattern neatly is a good challenge.