Leopard Brocade V1247 Skirt

I had such success using the berry coloured triple crepe from Remnant Kings to make my Ailakki Jumpsuit last year that when Hazel contacted me to see if I'd be interested in trying out another of their fabrics I said yes please! A quick browse of the site and this amazing leopard brocade (actually ex-River Island stock) had jumped out at me. The good news for you guys is that there's currently a 20% off store wide sale running right now! Get on it quick if you're hankering for a piece though as the sale is to make way for the new spring collection.

I was really intrigued by this fabric as it looked to have some depth and interest which I couldn't quite work out online. I wasn't disappointed when it arrived. Its quite thick and loosely woven which gives it a wonderfully unusual crinkled texture. In fact it crinkles right up in the wash and needs a good press to flatten and stretch it out into shape again! That somehow sounds like a negative thing but I love it! To make it even more exciting the black of the leopard spots has a texture like chenille. The different colours are different textures and thicknesses of yarn all woven together to create the pattern of leopard spots.

I had been thinking about making a third Rosari skirt inspired by one I'd seen on the high street (I love that pattern and honestly don't think my wardrobe could ever have too many!). However, once the fabric arrived I decided it would be better suited to Vogue 1247 which is another beloved skirt pattern of mine after making a version from this amazing embroidered raw silk a while back. The Rosari has a beautiful a-line shape which I think best suits a fabric which is going to accentuate that with a little bit of a kick. This brocade has a wonderful softness to it which really moulds to the shape of the body so I thought the cut of the 1247 would make better use of it. My favourite feature of the Vogue skirt are those deep pockets concealed in the seam running across the front and something about the slouchy texture of the brocade really works for these.

I fitted the pattern the same way as I did last time I made it; using a larger seam allowance down the sides as my version of the pattern only has the size 12 and up when I ideally need the 10. The pocket sizes and placement don't change with the size so that method works out just fine. It also means I can get the fit spot on as the side seams are one of the last steps. I needed just a metre of fabric and had plenty to spare. The panelled style of the skirt means that all the pattern pieces are fairly small.

Its a nice and challenging pattern with lots of accurate sewing required to match up all those seams and get the binding looking nice and even. The construction method and instructions are fab though so no one should find it head-scratchingly difficult. I find this pattern so satisfying to make as it ends up almost more beautiful inside than out! Theres also something really lovely about the fact that you can't rush making this one. You need to go slowly and carefully and get lost in the process of making which I love. I am particularly delighted with how neat my invisible zip turned out!

You may have noticed that as I did first time around I omitted the flap over of the waistband at the centre back. I've always found it tricky to get these spot on neat and tidy and prefer the clean finish of running the zip right up through the waistband. Perhaps I should put some effort into perfecting the other technique though! Theres a bit of hand stitching involved to get those insides looking as pretty as possible; both the waistband edge and hem are hand stitched down. I used as small a hem as I could manage (1/2") as this skirt does come up pretty short!! I forgot that I used the raw edge of the silk to create the hem on my last one and that gave me that extra little bit of length. I'm 5ft 3" so if you're taller you might want to consider adding a bit of length.

The fabric was pretty great to work with as it responded so well to steam, which being 100% polyester I was surprised about. I know some people shy away from poly fabrics as they have a reputation for being poor quality and not so nice to work with or wear, but there is a huge variety of them available which vary wildly in quality and type so don't tar them all with the same brush just yet! This particular one feels soft and gorgeous, both to handle and wear and I am glad I didn't pass up on it because of the fibre content. I'd recommend swatching polyester fabrics before purchase so you can give them a good feel. You might be surprised at some of the wonderful qualities they can have.

The lovely spongy, loose weave did mean that the fabric frayed EVERYWHERE in big chunks when cut so it was great that the pattern asks for all the seam allowances to be bound so I could keep this under control! Those chunky bits of chenille were falling out all over the place. I made my own binding from some cotton sateen in my stash. Last time I chickened out and used shop bought bias as the pattern requires so much but I bit the bullet this time as I thought the colours were so great together. Theres a richness in both the maroon and the rusty brown flecks in the leopard. I love that as many edges are bound as possible so that lovely contrasting colour runs throughout.

The brocade is a great weight for this skirt as something with less body wouldn't support the shape but you can't use anything too thick as there are a lot of intersecting seams which are made more bulky but the binding finish. It is a great choice for projects requiring a bottom weight fabric and could also work well for jackets but I'd say if you want to make something with real structure you'd need to underline it with something to give it a bit of crisp support as the nature of the weave makes this quite malleable.

I sort of surprised myself with this fabric choice as the leopard is quite bold for me but there's something subtle about the colour way and scale that makes me understand why some people class leopard print as a neutral (I'm looking at you Nicole!). I am so delighted with my decision and how I ended up using it. Its one of the most interesting fabrics I have come across in online fabric stores; the kind of thing that you might uncover in the depths of one of the stores on Goldhawk Road and know you've hit on a gem.  It can be so difficult to get hold of interesting garment appropriate fabrics sometimes, the kind of thing that RTW clothes are made of but Remnant Kings are really good at stocking this sort of thing.