May Indie Pattern Update!

And we're at the end of May already! Where is this year disappearing to? We've seen the first hint of summer in London and the days are flying past yet my sewing queue doesn't seem to be diminishing...in fact after compiling this list I'm pretty sure it's longer than it was last month! Just take a look at my Pinterest Sewing Pattern Wishlist board for proof. I'm just about to head into an incredibly busy spell at work so I'm not sure how well I'll be able to keep up with the indie news throughout June. Apologies in advance for next months post being late/a bit brief/non existent but I will do my best! Anyway on to May's sewing excitement...

New Patterns

• It was the month for dresses over at Seamwork Magazine. The two patterns released with the May issue were the Reggie Dress which is a woven empire line wrap dress and the Gabrielle Dress which is a skater style with cut out back and option for a tied yoke.
• The Avid Seamstress has released yet another wardrobe staple in the form of her A-Line Dress pattern. There's lots of room to play around with that classic fitted bodice and gently flared skirt combo.
• Style Arc released a number of patterns throughout the month including the Casey Coat which has a slightly cocoon shape and zipped front that gives it the feel of an on trend bomber. The new freebie with any purchase this month was the Cher Knit Dress and their Peony Dress is a dead ringer for the frock Kate Middleton wore to her sister's wedding which got a lot of love on Instagram. Well worth a look. They also released the Beshari Outfit bundle which consists of a shawl collar jacket with kimono sleeves, a pull on pant with tuck detail at the hem and boxy tee with angled side seams. Each pattern can be purchased separately too.
• New from Tilly and the Buttons is the Etta Dress. This is a knock out of a wiggle dress and I'm particularly taken with the version with the v shaped back neckline and collar. Very Joan Holloway! There is also an online class to purchase and follow plus limited edition fabric kits.
• Scroop Patterns released the Ngaio Blouse which is 1930s inspired with a classy high v neckline and gathered upper bodice. I can see this looking great with a pencil skirt. It also comes with three cup sizes.
• Itch to Stitch treated us to a FREE pattern download this month! The Lago Tank is a classic simple knit tank top which would be a great way to try out an Itch to Stitch pattern if you haven't before. I highly recommend them for their in depth instructions and this would be a great way to practice your knit skills with the bands finishing the armholes and neckline.
• New menswear pattern alert! Thread Theory related their long awaited Belvedere Waistcoat pattern; filling another hole in a man's classic handmade wardrobe. A waistcoat could be the perfect introduction to dabbling in a bit of mens tailoring don't you think?
• Noodlehead released the Traverse Bag. I've not yet tried making any bags other than a basic tote and this cross body design with various zip and patch pockets quite appeals to me.
• You can clearly see the Japanese pattern cutting influence in the new Kyoto Vest from Tessuti. It's a shawl collared wrap vest with curved front edges. Their Oslo Coat has totally stolen my heart however. Released just in time for winter in the southern hemisphere the classic clean lines of the double breasted style with shawl collar are gorgeously classy.
• As well as updating their Midi Bodycon Dress pattern to improve fit and add illustrations to the instructions Kommatia Patterns released the Tapered Trousers pattern which features an elasticated waist and cargo pockets.
• Love Notions released the Rhapsody Blouse which has a relaxed cut gathered lightly into the yoke at the shoulders and various options for classic bohemian sleeves. Perfect for the summer.
• The Willamette Shirt is new from Hey June Handmade. It would be a great first shirt for a beginner with it's soft collar and options for a curved or cropped hem. Love the use of stripes in one of the samples.
• Sew Caroline and Simple Life Pattern Company have collaborated to bring out a collection of Mommy and Me patterns by taking 3 of each others designs and turning them into womenswear/childrenswear. What a fun project! The new ladies patterns are the Ayda Top & Dress, Molly Top, Dress and Maxi and Tammy's Tulip Shorts.
• The Tailoress released a whopping 5 new womenswear patterns this month! The Olivia Top, Agatha Dress, Lily Cardigan, Karli Dress and Sophie Shrug are all inspired by the approaching summer season. I think my favourite feature is the dropped waist of the Karli Dress.
• New from Blank Slate Patterns are the Barton Shorts and Austin Tee. That tie front detail is all over the place at the moment and I'm sorely tempted by this design in particular as I like it combined with the split neckline.
• The Lenox Shirtdress is the latest release from Jenny over at Cashmerette and I'm sure there are plus sized ladies all over the globe swooning over it! The combination of v-neck button placket and princess seamed bodice are ever so flattering and it's a truly classic style.
• The silhouette of the new Gaston Trousers from Republique du Chiffon are so on trend this season. If you've been following my Me Made May on Instagram you'll have noticed I'm enjoying floaty cropped culottes a lot recently but seeing these has made me question whether my wardrobe needs a more structured twill pair. 
• The PDF pattern release from Sew Over It this month was the Lulu Shift Dress which features raglan sleeves and a gathered neckline with keyhole detail. Very effortless sixties summer.
• The Rochester is a new dress and top pattern from Maven Patterns. The high gathered neckline is a really interesting feature which I think would look really chic in a neutral colour paired with slim cropped trousers.
• Just in time for summer Seamstress Erin has launched the Laminara Swimsuit pattern. It's a simple one piece style with flattering inserted panel which twists around the body. It has two cup size options and instructions for including cups if you wish to do so.
• I love a maxi skirt for summer and Seamingly Smitten has released a beauty of an opportunity to showcase a border print or special fabric in the form of the Orleans Avenue PDF download. It features a centre front slit and hip pockets.
• An entirely new discovery to me this month, Honig Design appeared on my radar with the release of the Athena Top. I like how the angled pleats on the bodice are mirrored on the peplum and emphasise the waist. 
• The new Wrap Dress Pattern from Schneidernmeistern is cut like a dressing gown so you can wear it loosely draped as a top layer or tightly wrapped as a dress. I'm enjoying the understated glamour of a more relaxed fit.
• Designer Stitch released the Kiera Skirt. It has a very Vivien Westwood vibe to it with ribbons attached internally to each panel for the you can create swags and drape your own shape by tying them up at different lengths.
• Made for Mermaids launched the Mama Sommer Mini, Dress and Maxi pattern along with the children's version to match as always. It's a simple strappy knit dress with options for an empire line or natural waist.
• It feels like I am seriously tempted by a new release from Wear Lemonade nearly every month and their new Daria Dress is no exception! That tie front detail is intriguing me again. Particularly on a shirt dress.
• New from Greenstyle Creations are the Moxi Shorts. I love the flattering style lines of these and am intrigued by the construction. Definitely one to add to my handmade activewear wish list. There's even an add on available to make internal compression shorts with side pocket!
• Anne Kerdiles Couture released the Belle-Ile Dress. It's the perfect sleeveless, collarless summer sundress with yoke and front button placket to the waist.

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• Blank Slate Patterns re-released their Oceanside Pants/Shorts pattern and it now includes an expanded size range from XXS to 3XL.
• The Deer & Doe Datura Blouse is now available as a PDF download. I've long been tempted by this design - mainly because I'm intrigued about the construction technique for the lovely cut out detail around the neck!
• How To Do Fashion released a downloadable PDF pattern piece to add a pleated peplum to their No.10 Stockholm Jacket after the version Nanna made herself proved so popular online!
• Closet Case Patterns launched the Lining Expansion Pack for their Kelly Anorak. I've had mine cut out with underlining for a good couple of month's now waiting for a decent stretch of sewing time and the release of this may have given me a change of heart with the plan!
• Nina Lee Patterns recently launched and have already worked on expanding their size range to include a size 6.

Sew-alongs

• A sew-along for the new A-Line Dress from The Avid Seamstress has been running over on her blog since the 20th May.
• To accompany the release of their new Belvedere Waistcoat pattern Thread Theory have been running a waistcoat sew-along. Packed with tips that you can apply to sewing any waistcoat, not just their pattern.
• Jenny from Cashmerette has been running a lovely detailed sew-along for her new Lenox Shirtdress. Shirt-dresses are proving very popular this season so if you've got plans to make one be sure to check out her posts for tips.
• Seamstress Erin has posted a series of tutorials and handy tips for making her new Laminara Swimsuit pattern. Making swimwear is a lot of fun and more straightforward than you might thing although this design includes plenty of options to challenge yourself. 
• Throughout the month of May Made by Mermaids has been running a sew-along for the Mama Ella and Ella top & dress patterns. Now concluded it's worth checking out for tips on sewing children's clothes.

Upcoming!

• Itch to Stitch are currently testing the Beausoliel Top & Dress. It features cold shoulder cut outs and includes options for various cup sizes.
• Schnittchen gave us a sneaky peak on Instagram at the photoshoot for their new patterns at the beginning of May so eyes peeled for that release which should be coming soon.
• Also photographing their new designs earlier this month was Megan Nielsen. The last couple of patterns I've made of hers have been HUGE hits in my wardrobe so I'm super stoked to see these.
• Trend Patterns hinted at something new and exciting coming in June...let's hope it's some new patterns to fall head over heels for! 
• The next set of patterns from Pauline Alice are due to be released in July and Pauline has suggested that she has returned to her retro aesthetic for this collection.
• The next pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade will be the Laneway Dress. It's 1940s inspired with multiple cup sizes. I'm sensing a trend for indie companies working on providing different cup sizes for their patterns and think it's fab!
• Sarah from Ohhh Lulu has two new patterns almost ready for release! She discusses some of the details of the Kate Camisole and Anouk Bodysuit in this preview video. She's also planning a swimsuit sew-along using a couple of her lingerie patterns as a starting point. 

Other Exciting News

• Gertie from Gertie's New Blog For Better Sewing more than doubled her target on Kickstarter to fund her new line of independent sewing patterns so Charm Patterns should be coming later this summer! Congrats!

As always please feel free to jump in to the comments with any news I may have missed or anything else you would like to share about the new releases this month. What are your favourites? I'd love to know!

I've seen so many inspiring projects in my blog and social media feeds this month it's been really difficult to whittle down a little selection to share with you all today but here's a little taster to get your creative juices flowing as we head into June!

• Mie's version of the No.8 Svaneke Blouse from How To Do Fashion is just gorgeous! The combination of peach fabrics works so well and I love the slightly boxy shape and where the waistline hits.
• I don't tend to wear shirts a lot but Lauren's slouchy linen Archer Shirt has got me rethinking my stance on that. This kind of shirt definitely has a place in my wardrobe! Beautiful sewing.
• I adore Carolyn's version of the new Lenox Shirtdress. I'm always drawn to clever use of fabric and I love this combo of printed and plain denim and her choice of placement.
• Mags' version of the Colette Laurel Dress is a real stunner. Great fabric and I love that she chose to make those bell cuffs and little bit bigger. That's a dress I could wear all year round.
• I've seen a couple of knock out Etta Dresses in my feed over the last couple of weeks but had to give Jane's a mention. Just look at that fit and the finish inside! Her post on sewing and running really resonated with me too.

Liberty Silk Crepe de Chine M6696 Shirtdress

At the start of the month The Fabric Store got in touch to see if I'd be interested in trying out a selection of their fabrics. Of course I jumped at the chance as I've been addicted to this store since I visited their LA branch 18 months ago and was blown away by their carefully curated selection ideal for dressmaking. They are New Zealand based but their online store has been shipping to the UK for about a year now with free speedy delivery over $150. If you're a long time reader of my blog you'll already be aware that I adore their merino wools so this time I tried to branch out a try a wider selection...although I couldn't resist snagging a piece of this merino/polpropylene honeycomb jacquard. I've never seen anything like it and the idea of some merino sportswear was too tempting! I sewed up my new favourite t-shirt over the weekend from this marle rib knit and to get a good variety in my selection I added a couple of metres of rich teal linen which I am considering making a pair of slouchy dungarees/overalls from. Every piece is top quality and it is a treat to work with such gorgeous natural fibres. They looked so lovely when I unwrapped them I could hardly bear to unfold them to get them in the wash!

The fourth piece of fabric in my order was this beauty of a Liberty print in sand-washed silk crepe de chine. I'm not usually that much of a sucker for a Liberty print but The Fabric Store do stock a great selection of the kind of prints that I would actually wear and I fell head over heels for this one. I prefer larger scale prints and I like that this is vaguely floral but has a more organic feel. It is the perfect summer dress or blouse weight and has that liquid type of movement to it. Although more opaque than a georgette it is quite sheer in direct sunlight so I will probably be wearing this with some sort of slip. The sand-washed aspect means that it is missing that sheen that crepe de chine usually has which for me makes it infinitely more wearable. It gives the fabric a soft, matte texture but the effect on this particular silk is a little more subtle than I have seen on other sand-washed silks which have the feel of a peach skin.

This project 100% started with and was driven by the fabric. This print has such a romantic vibe and I knew before it even arrived that it would have a beautiful delicate drape. I wanted to be able to waft around in it all summer. I've been really enjoying the trend for midi and maxi shirt dresses with vents which enable the skirt to billow and float around your legs as you move and decided this silk would be the perfect match. I looked at a few different patterns (including the Capital Chic Cuba Libre and Named Reeta which would both be great choices for this style) but suddenly realised I already had a shirtdress pattern I adored and which I could easily adapted to have the floaty feel I was after. I still wear my denim version of McCalls 6696 to death and know it is a favourite among many other sewing bloggers due to it's classic lines and clean finish.

The pattern does come with the option for a fuller pleated skirt than the fitted version I originally made but I decided not to use the pattern for that as I was after more of a contemporary straight cut and a gentle gather so it didn't get too bulky around the waist. The skirt with the pattern is a knee length style and I thought if I lengthened those flared panels I was going to end up with way too much fabric around the hem. Instead I cut four simple rectangles as my skirt panels, using the pattern I drafted for my pleated midi skirt last summer. I was really happy with how much fabric and volume there was in that skirt and the rayon for that had a similar weight and drape. I then extended the M6696 pattern piece for the front placket to match the length of my new skirt as the placket running all the way from neck to hem is a feature I really like of the original pattern.

To assemble the skirt I sewed the centre back seam then the side seams, leaving them open from about 25cm above the hem. I finished the seam allowances then pressed them open; continuing down to fold back and press the seam allowance of the open part of the seam in place too. Then I topstitched up from the hem pivoting to sew across the seam about 1cm above the opening and back down the other side. It turns out that the split hem was really hard to capture in photographs as you can see above! It's much easier to show you in flat photos.

After running some basting stitches across the waist of the skirt and pulling them up to create a light gather I attached it to the waistband in the same way as the original skirt. I followed the pattern instructions to hem the skirt before attaching the front placket pieces as I love the way that is so neatly finished at the hem. One of the reasons 6696 is such a great pattern is that it's packed with these lovely techniques to achieve a clean finish inside. There are only a few seam allowances exposed as the yoke is lined, the armholes finished with bias tape and the placket and waistband hide many of the other raw edges. I french seamed the side seams of the bodice and the centre back seam of the skirt but the side seams of the skirt I opted to overlock as it was going to make creating those hem vents so much easier. I did think the silk might be too delicate for the overlocker and I might end up with a bit of puckering but I had a little experiment on some scraps and it's actually worked really well. I think it's a common misconception about silk that it is usually very delicate and fine but despite its weight it's usually super strong although easily stretched out on the bias.

I know some people shy away from and even hate working with silk but I love it. It doesn't need to be a huge challenge especially when it's a top quality crepe like this. The sand-washed nature of this silk gives it a slight texture which means it has some grip against itself so doesn't slip about too badly. It does still move about and shift as any silk will but patience and plenty of fine pins in the seam allowance can soon sort that. If you're having trouble laying out your silk to cut I would recommend either cutting in a single layer or if folding it pinning your selvedges together. I also like to cut silk on the carpet rather than a table top or smooth floor for a bit of extra grip. I thought this crepe was rather beautifully behaved and all those shirt details came out so well because it responds so well to a press and holds a nice crisp corner. The fine silk also meant limited bulk to deal with around that collar. As always I followed Four Square Walls' tutorial for sewing a collar as I find that order so much easier than any other I've tried.

I love so many things about the classic design of this pattern but did make a few tweaks to suit my personal taste. I've worn my denim version a couple of times recently (hello British sunshine!) and am still very happy with the fit so as before I removed the gathers from the back of the bodice and stuck with those alterations. If I remember rightly I cut the size 10 with the B cup (yes another great thing about this pattern is that it has different cup sizes!) and removed a smidgen of length from the bodice. The pattern instructions do involve quite a lot of slip stitching by hand but I actually avoided all of it as I love the look of topstitching on a shirt or shirtdress! I used the 'burrito' method for the rear yoke which eliminating the hand stitching at the shoulders and topstitched the whole collar, front placket and waistband as well as the bias finish of the sleeves. I used the standard white thread I'd been using to keep it subtle. I found a fine microtex needle and Gutermann Sew All thread worked best for this silk by the way. Good quality silk crepes can sometimes be nightmare for skipping stitches!

The buttons are from a beautiful East of India card that my Mum gave me yonks ago! I've been wanting to use them for ages but never found the right project. As soon as this fabric arrived I knew they had met their match. I'm really pleased with how my buttonholes turned out on this project too. I've had a few disasters sewing them recently so made the effort to clean out the machine and get it freshly threaded before starting them and luckily it seemed to love this silk! I interfaced the collar, stand, front plackets and waistband with a lightweight fusible woven interfacing which I'm pleased to say hasn't affected the drape of the silk too much.

Being quite petite I would never have considered wearing skirts and dresses of this length a couple of years ago but I'm absolutely loving this. I'm not sure exactly what it is but there's something about the combination of delicate wafty silk, the close fitting waistband and figure skimming bodice that's really working for me. I can see me wearing this to death this summer as it will be so easy to dress up or down for many occasions. Thank you so much to The Fabric Store for offering me the opportunity to try out the fabric and adding some real gems to my summer wardrobe. I'm looking forward to showing you what else I've made!

The Vogue Cocktail Hour Sew-Along! - Floral Brocade V1537

Today it's my turn to share with you the outfit I've made for the Vogue Cocktail Hour Social Sew-Along in aid of The Eve Appeal! I really enjoyed taking part in their Big Vintage Sew-Along last year and am delighted to be one of the bloggers spreading the word about their campaign this year. McCalls UK have selected a variety of cocktail hour appropriate patterns including dresses. jumpsuits and separates. The proceeds of the sales of these patterns from March right through until November will be donated to The Eve Appeal who are the only UK national charity raising awareness and funding research into the five gynaecological cancers. They do invaluable work focusing on risk prevention, early detection and screening. There are a whole host of fantastic bloggers taking part in the sew-along and sewing up their choice from the patterns to show you their potential and inspire you to make your own!

So this is the maddest outfit I've ever made and I LOVE it! I chose the pattern before the fabric and then had real trouble deciding what I wanted. I often sew with soft and drapey fabrics so the fact that this requires fabric with a bit of structure which is also occasion appropriate was a nice challenge. The idea of using a jacquard/brocade like the sample garment appealed to me but everything I was coming across seemed a bit home dec/old fashioned/something I'd use for a period costume at work! I was after something fun and contemporary. I decided to hit Goldhawk Road and after not much success finally spotted a roll of this amazing floral brocade hidden away in Classic Textiles. Just after buying it I discovered that Fabrics Galore also stock it and have seen it pop up on social media a few times since. Rumana took full advantage of the amazing inverted colour-way on the reverse and made a great reversible sweatshirt style top out of it!

This brocade has an amazing texture to it which appears slightly crinkled and almost quilted in the way that the flowers seem to rise out of the black background. The texture means the fabric has a bit of give in it as the texture can be flattened out which makes it interesting to sew and also very forgiving to fit! I'm not sure what the content is but there's definitely a bit of poly in there so I kept my iron on a mid rather than high temperature but it washed well at 40 degrees. The only thing I didn't like about this fabric is how much it frayed. Big fluffy chunks come off the moment you cut into it and my floor was more thread than carpet by the time I was done! Luckily both dress and coat and fully lined so it's not a problem now it's done but it certainly made the more fiddly construction elements tricky.

I cut a size 12 which is a size down at the waist and hips from what the pattern recommends but my experience with these patterns has told me that there's more ease built in than I personally like and a 12 does just fine. To make doubly sure I checked the finished measurements which are printed on the pattern pieces themselves at the waist, bust and hip lines rather than the envelope. I'm VERY pleased with the fit and am glad I sized down. The dress has the perfect amount of ease for a shift and I like that it still gives you a figure and has great shape through the back. When I first put it on it seemed a little roomy in the shoulders but has settled into place with wear. If I made it again I'd probably take a smidge of length off the shoulder rather than width as I think the problem is to do with where it sits rather than the size of the neckline. For the first time in a long time I did absolutely nothing to the length of the pattern! Being 5ft3 I normally have to shorten things by an inch or two but I love this as is. It is quite a short style and looks much more youthful for being that length but if I was any taller I think I'd feel a bit concerned about bending over!

This was certainly a challenging and time consuming project but a very enjoyable one. There are huge number of techniques and steps to work through and no less than 28 pattern pieces! Just the cutting took me a day. The coat wasn't as complex as the winter coat I made myself back in January as I wasn't contending with a thick wool but it contains pretty much the same number of techniques and elements. Luckily as it was only a few months ago that I made that one the method felt quite familiar so I went into it with confidence. To make the process a little speedier I actually tackled the instructions in all the wrong order and did the coat and dress simultaneously so I could pin lots of pieces, sew lots of pieces then press lots of pieces without having to move around too much. I assembled all the little bits and pieces like the pockets, sleeve tabs and collar first so they were just ready to attach when I got to that point in the instructions.

To my surprise I discovered that the trickiest part sewing wise was in the dress rather than the coat. The finishing techniques on this pattern are to die for and one of my favourite things is the facing and lining combination inside the the dress. Attaching that shaped lining to the facing a sewing the deep v of the centre back was definitely a challenge that required accuracy and patience! I'm really delighted with the way it turned out though and almost want to wear the dress inside out. It's such a stunning feature.

This design is labelled as advanced but I wouldn't class myself as an advanced dressmaker and wouldn't say you need to be to tackle this one. If you break it down into small chunks and take your time it's entirely manageable. You definitely do need a bit of dressmaking and basic coat making experience under your belt though as I think you'd benefit from an understanding of how these kind of garments come together. The instructions are very thorough and clear but do rely on you having a bit of sewing knowledge.

Always daunting when sewing a coat is the fact that you start with your bound buttonholes! The method in the pattern instructions is different to the one I followed when I made my coat but I decided to go with the pattern instructions this time. I think I'll go back to the method from 'Couture Sewing Techniques' next time as I didn't get as clean a finish this way and it was difficult to get crisp and even welts in this textured fabric. The fraying of the brocade made them particularly difficult, especially when it came to slashing and turning in the edges inside the coat to finish off. I didn't enjoy that part at all!

I pretty much stuck to the instructions all the way through as they're great. I was confused by the ease stitching instructions for the front and back princess seams as it said to ease stitch the centre front and back pieces when I would have thought it should be the side pieces as that is the larger curve that you are trying to fit into the smaller. As it was I had no trouble easing in those areas by hadn't without gathering stitches.

The only other time that things got confusing was attaching the coat lining to the facing as you are meant to sew down to the small circles near the hem but I couldn't see any small circles! There was a notch but that seemed quite high up from the hem. I sewed to that point anyway figuring if the gap was bigger than usual I'd just have to sew more by hand. There's A LOT of hand stitching involved in the coat. You could avoid a lot of it by bagging out the lining but I quite enjoyed sitting by the tv and closing everything up nice and accurately!

I love that the coat includes top-stictching. It's another of those little details that really elevates a project. It doesn't really show much on my bonkers brocade but looks great up close. I added topstitching to the side and shoulder seams even though the instructions don't indicate too as it seemed odd to leave them out. The shoulder seams I pressed open and topstitched on both sides. The side seams I pressed towards the back and just topstitched on that side of the seam.

I chose a plain black cotton lawn to line it as I thought this was a good match for the weight and structure of the brocade and I'm not a fan of wearing those more traditional 'silky' lining fabrics against the skin. I used a lightweight fusible cotton interfacing on both the coat and dress. I was concerned about how the brocade would fuse because of the texture but it actually moulded to the ridges of the fabric beautifully. The buttons came from my stash. I figured plain black and simple would do just fine with a fabric this loud!

Both the coat and dress are packed with little details that elevate this design to real 'special project level'. The swing catches between the lining and dress at the hem to keep everything in place are a lovely touch, as is the fact that the patch pockets are lined. Next time I'd probably trim down the lining pieces slightly though so that they are encouraged to roll to the inside of the pocket.I had a hard time pressing those curved corners and getting the lining hidden away.

My favourite features are the bracelet length sleeves of the coat and that amazing back detail on the dress. I really enjoyed the process of sewing a totally new design detail and love how it looks. It's just the right depth and width to be slightly sexy without being one exposed and I was delighted to discover that the lower strap is in the perfect place to hide my bra band!

The instructions recommend adding ribbon hanging loops inside the shoulders of the dress which I decided against as I didn't want them to peek out when wearing. I'm actually tempted to add smaller ribbon piece inside the shoulders with poppers to connect them so they can act as bra strap carriers as well as keeping the dress on the hanger. It's totally possible to wear a bra with this style but the straps could do with a little help to stay hidden.

I was a little sceptical about how this style would suit me but I feel surprisingly comfortable and 'like myself' in it. I think it's a great look for petite ladies and the shape of the dress is totally timeless; when can't you wear a shift?! The bracelet length sleeves of the coat and it's cut have a slightly sixties vibe (especially in a flower power brocade!) but the combination of shift and jacket is also giving off a nineties feel too.

It feels so 'fashion' to wear both pieces together but I'll be honest and say that it's unlikely I ever will. I adore the dress on it's own and definitely can see me getting a lot of wear out of it but I absolutely love the coat paired with a simple ensemble of skinny jeans and a white tee with black stilettos. I've never had a statement piece of outerwear before and I'm really enjoying it! I do have a friend's wedding to attend in November which the full ensemble might make it to if I pluck up the courage. Speaking of winter weddings, I never know what to wear and this combination of coat and dress is perfect. If my choice of fabric is a little bit much for you I think it would look amazing in a solid, vivid colour of beautiful wool crepe!

Do take some time to check out the other patterns you can by to support the campaign and keep your eyes peeled for the other projects over the next six months. I can't wait to see what everyone has been up to! 

Stretch Gaberdine Flint Cropped Trousers

The project I've got to share with you today is a total departure from my normal silhouette and one that I thought could wind up a complete disaster for many reasons. But it turns out I love these trousers and can't stop wearing them! They are the Flint Pants & Shorts from Megan Nielsen and I've been telling pretty much everyone who'll listen about what a fantastic pattern these are. I would never have seen myself wearing this wide-legged, cropped style of trouser but I have seen some gorgeous versions popping up on Instagram and Pinterest over the last couple of months and the idea had been bouncing around in my head for a while. I'd been seriously eyeing up an M&S pair that a colleague of mine looks incredible in and as she's quite petite like I am I decided the look was worth a try. Then Megan released Flint and I think I bought the pattern that very day. I was so intrigued by the unusual crossover closure which is cleverly incorporated into the pocket opening and loved the front release tucks which add volume to the leg.

I actually bought the fabric for these before the pattern was released. My colleague's trousers are quite smart looking black ones with a bit of weight which flow beautifully and I had my eye out for a similar fabric. Classic black seemed like a good way to go for this first try of a new shape! I was shopping for work in John Lewis on Oxford Street when I came across their range of stretch suiting. Just the weight I was looking for and beautifully soft with a gorgeous drape provided by the viscose content. It is a polyester/viscose blend which I know might have some of you running for the hills but some modern day polyesters are world's apart from those nasty crepes and chiffons that melt as soon as they get anywhere near a cool iron. I couldn't tell that this was a poly to touch or work with it and as these trousers are a particularly breezy style I wasn't worried about the it getting hot or sticky to wear. I didn't need the spandex content but it's nothing too dramatic and it has made the completed trousers exceedingly comfortable with a nice 'bounce'.

I knew it was ideal on first touch and figured 2x the length of the trousers I wanted plus a little extra would be plenty so bought 1.8m with no deliberation. The Flint envelope actually recommends 2.4m of this width but with a bit of jiggling I managed with what I had. Phew! If you're using a fabric with a directional print or nap you will need more as I placed some of my pieces upside down to squeeze them on. Interestingly John Lewis's tag recommended hand wash or dry clean only which I'm assuming is because of the viscose content but I pre-washed it in the machine and have washed them a couple of times since with no trouble. I also risked a medium heat iron rather than the recommended cool as to get a nice flat seam it needs a good steamy press the eliminate that bounce that is so lovely to wear.

Labelled as a stretch suiting I'd call it a stretch poly gaberdine as it's got that visible twill weave and smooth finish. It comes in a range of neutral colours and I'd very much recommend it for tailoring projects that you want a bit of movement or give in. At £14 it's a bit more than I'd usually pay for a black basic but I knew it would be perfect and I'd pay a lot more than £25 for a pair of RTW trousers like this.

I cut the size S which is a teeny bit larger than my measurements but I was concerned about them being snug around the hips as proportionally I've got a bit of a bum on me! They did come up quite large on the waist so I just moved the button over by 1.5" which worked out quite well to give me a snug fit. I think this may have something to do with the stretch in the fabric as I haven't had as much of a problem with the pair I'm currently making but then the waistband is interfaced so it shouldn't have stretched out. I'm training for a half marathon at the minute and all that running seems to be doing some crazy things to my measurements so that's made keeping track of fitting a little tricky!

Fit wise they're fairly easy to manage because of the loose fitting style. I think I could do with a really tiny sway back adjustment as I have a little bit of excess fabric sitting below the waistband but it's nothing to overly bother me. I did put a lot of consideration into the length as I don't exactly have the longest legs in the world and was concerned about the cropped length really not working for me. The length of these was going to be key to their success! Before hemming I tried them on with pretty much every pair of shoes in my wardrobe to find the optimum length for all possible occasions and whilst I'd usually only pin up a section of the hem to check it I pinned up both legs so I could properly see how they would look. I ended up removing 1.5" from the hem and used the recommend 2.5" hem allowance.

The fastening on these is genius and a detail unlike anything I've seen before on RTW or otherwise. The waistband overlaps slightly to one side and opens up into the pocket to give you enough room to get in and out, eliminating the need for a zip or fly. You have the option to use buttons to fasten the waistband or a tie which I opted for as I love this kind of unusual detail. If you're concerned about the tie not being secure enough fear not, there's an additional button fastening hidden inside the waistband to keep things safe. This also provides the perfect opportunity to use up those odd beautiful buttons you've been hoarding but never quite know what to do with! I think my button is a discarded sample from a show I was working on a couple of years ago; I remember getting it in Cloth House on Berwick Street.

I was going to say that the fastening was my favourite thing about this pattern but actually there's so much else to love! Just the general cut of the trouser is fab; the width of the leg is spot on and super comfortable yet chic. I really like the release tucks and the way the front hangs because of them and also the deep hem gives a bit of weight which again helps the way they hang and move. The hem was a little tricky to sew as the widening of the leg plus depth of the turn up means you've got a much wider edge to fit into a narrower space. I noticed in the sew-along that Megan suggests to fold down the excess fabric near a seam and sew over it which is exactly what I did but I wasn't personally sure about that finish. Now I've decided on my ideal length I might adjust the pattern next time so that the leg pieces start to taper in again from the hem line to match the area that the hem allowance will be turning up into. Another construction aspect I thought might be tricky was topstitching along the bottom edge of the waistband to secure it inside but I'm really pleased with how neat that has turned out.

I bought the PDF of the pattern as I was so impatient to make them and ended up printing way more pages than I needed to because the waistband for versions 1 & 3 isn't nested and each size prints individually. And I wasn't even making that version! Entirely my own fault as I forgot that on the first page of Megan's PDFs she lists exactly which pages you need to print for which version and size to save you wasting your paper. This is a feature I really loved when I made her Dove Blouse so I'm annoyed at myself for forgetting! Something for you to bear in mind if you're planning on using the PDF.

I couldn't be happier with this combo of pattern and fabric and can see me wearing them all year round as I'd definitely layer them over tights with ankle boots in the winter. As it's such a new shape to incorporate into my wardrobe I thought I might have some trouble styling them but my favourite thing about them is how surprisingly versatile they are! I love them styled down with a t-shirt and pumps or trainers like in the majority of these pictures but they are so easy to dress up too. I wore them to the press night of my latest show with my Inari Cropped Tee and a pair or wedges but they also look great and feel super sophisticated with a pair of killer heels. A total triumph of a garment.

The proof of how much I love this pattern is in the fact that my sewing queue is out of control right now but the photo above is already happening! I decided my wardrobe could absolutely benefit from a pair on more of a summer weight so am using this beautiful chambray from Sew Over It to make a pair pretty much exactly like Megan's sample. And a pair of the shorts in striped linen are on the list too!