July Indie Pattern Update! (and giveaway winners!)

Hey guys! Well it has been another whopper of a month for new pattern releases and I've been really enjoying all the seasonal sewing inspiration you've been giving me on both your blogs and Instagram over the last few weeks. I'm currently wishing someone would grant me the gift of an extra week slotted into my life when time stands still and all I have to do is sew!

New Patterns

• The two new patterns released with this month's edition of Seamwork Magazine were the Veronica and Georgia Dresses. I really like the clean, contemporary feel of both of these and the chambray version of Veronica is just like an image I've been coming back to on Pinterest for years!
• Style Arc released the Quinn Woven Top & Quinn Woven Skirt which can either be bought separately or together as part of a discounted bundle. The new Lacey Dress is also a breezy summer delight with panelling to play with. One of their July freebies was also new; the Sia Knit Dress.
• Seamstress Erin released the Ultraviolet Tee. It's an oversized shirt with short grown on sleeves that comes with two cup size options. The larger size is darted/gathered for a little extra shape.
• If you're after a speedy and fun summer sew the new Wardrobe By Me Hera Top could be just the thing. Best of all it's a free PDF download! The faux wrap top combined with small flutter sleeve and peplum created by the elasticated waistline makes for a sweet feminine style.
• Savvy Patterns released the Grace Tankini. It's a vintage inspired, modest two piece swimwear option with two top versions and four bottoms to choose from including a flippy little circle skirt.
• The patterns launched with the 4th edition of Sew Sew Def were the Reese and Wooster. Reese is a tie-up dress featuring eyelets down the front and Wooster is a pair of mens cargo shorts with dropped crotch. Both come free when you by the downloadable July/August issue. 
• New from Evie La Luve is the Mimi Bikini. I'm really interested in making one of these. I love the cut out look created by the double back straps of the top and waistband of the briefs.
• Lisa from the Avid Seamstress added the Shift Dress pattern to her collection of classic designs for timeless wardrobe staples. The low back adds a touch of elegance and the pencil style skirt with vent is a nice detail.
• Sew Over It's PDF release of the month was the Juliette Blouse which features an on-trend ruffle front. They also released a new paper pattern this month, the Elsie Dress, which is a gorgeous full skirted 1950s inspired design with a fitted bodice. I'm wondering if I've got time to sew one up before a friend's wedding in a couple of weeks!
• Christine Haynes released the Varda Dress and Top. It's a shift style garment which has a curved shape to flatter the lines of the body and three sleeve options. A lovely blank canvas for special fabrics.
• Schnittchen had a flurry of new releases this month. The first was the Marta Dress and Skirt which is the first in a series of four patterns designed by the winners of the Maker's Wish competition. The combination of pieced cups, button front and flared skirt is gorgeous. Also released were the Amanda Top, Chari Dress & Top and just yesterday they sneaked in a fourth with the Carla Jumpsuit! LOVE the cut of this one. It's just the sort of thing I've been wearing all summer
• Fairly new to the block, French Navy Now released their second PDF pattern this month. The Forsythe Dress has a breezy silhouette and short cuffed kimono sleeves. The curved panels on the bodice provide opportunity to play with colours, prints and stripes and I can imagine it making up beautifully in lightweight crinkly cottons and linens. 
• The Raglan Blouse and Sasha Skirt are new from Friday Pattern Company. The volume of the blouse which is elasticated at the cuff and waist has a beautiful seventies vibe and I love the clever design of the wrap skirt with ruffle.
• Always offering a new challenge up to the sewing community, Scroop Patterns released the Rilla Corset. It's a WW1 era style under-bust corset which comes down over the hips. The two views feature slightly different neck and hemlines. A great introduction to corsetry for anyone with a bit of sewing under their belt.
• Hey June Handmade released the Sandbridge Skirt; a pattern for a classic straight cut denim skirt with raw hem. It features all the classic jeans style details with five pockets, back yoke and belt loops.
• The big summer release from Colette is the Penny Shirtdress. Shirt dresses seem to be this year's big thing and this one comes with a classic view but also a second variation which includes a wrap over waist belt which I adore! The kind of little detail that elevates a garment into something special and interesting.
• Pattern Fantastique released the Glacial Tee which is a classic t-shirt base layer but with a contemporary feel which I appeals to me. I like the close fit, slightly shaped hemline and high neckline.
• I Am Patterns launched their I Am In Africa collection which includes three new patterns as well as updated versions and samples of their previous patterns. The Jain Top & Dress features batwing sleeves and a slightly raised waistline, the Joy Top is a simple style with elasticated full sleeves and my favourite of the bunch the Celeste Dress & Top features a heart shape neckline and back yoke.
• I'm really drawn to interesting wrap styles at the moment so the new Designer Stitch Ravanna Faux Wrap Pants certainly grabbed my attention. The high low hemline is unusual on a trouser.
• Ready To Sew released the Jazz Jumpsuit & Dress which has already proven pretty popular on my Instagram feed. The loose fit is bang on trend and certainly appealing for the muggy London weather of late.
• Pauline Alice launched two new patterns for summer in the form of the Mirambell Skirt and Lliria Dress. The topstitching on the skirt really accentuates the shaped waistband and pockets beautifully and I adore the 1940s feel of the wrap dress with asymmetrical buttoning front.
• The Suki Kimono is new from Helen's Closet. It's a pattern for a classic, comfortable robe which can be kept practical and straightforward in a simple cotton or made glamorous in a beautiful silk.
• New from Made for Mermaids is the Mama Tara Twist Top which accompanies the release of the Tara girls pattern. The twist front to this basic tee is unique but simple to achieve.

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• Blank Slate Patterns updated the Juniper Jersey to include their new expanded size range and a better overall fit.
• As part of their new collection I Am Patterns released a free downloadable pattern piece for adding short cuffed sleeves to their kimono sleeved Cassiopee Dress. There is also now an ultra long variation included in their Hermes Shirt pattern.

Sew-alongs

• Pattern Review has been running a sew-along for their recently released Claire Wrap Dress. You can find all the posts here.
• A four-part sew-along for the new Marta Dress from Schnittchen started over on their blog on Thursday. Could be useful if you've not tackled that style of bodice before.
• The new Sandbridge Skirt has an accompanying sew-along running over on the Hey June Handmade blog. Worth a look for tips on how to sew a fly front and get the top stitching on point.

Upcoming!

• Deer & Doe have a new collection coming at the end of August. It looks like it will include an updated version of their Bluet Dress, two new patterns and a surprise!
• Pier and Palace are a new indie pattern company on the block and were looking for testers for their first patterns. I'm super excited to see what they have to offer and what their design aesthetic will be. Eyes peeled guys!
• The Tailoress is soon to launch a small range of menswear patterns plus has another pattern for a ladies jumpsuit up her sleeve.
• Itch to Stitch are currently testing the Chai Shirt and Dress which is inspired by vintage wasp waist dresses. I love a shirtdress with a waistband.
• The new pattern from Grainline Studio is coming tomorrow!

Other Exciting News

• Wendy Ward from MIY Collection's next book will be 'The Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics'. I'm really exited to see what this will include as I have been wearing my merino Longley Cardigan so much that I had to make myself a second to wear when that one is in the wash!
• Colette launched a new look for their paper patterns. At the moment just Zinnia and Violet feature the new package design, including full colour photo booklets and fit guides, but as patterns are reprinted they will be updated. The new patterns come in misses or curvy size ranges and if you purchase a paper pattern direct from Colette you will get a digital copy including all sizes.
• I know a fair few of you were disappointed when some of Trend Patterns' first collection of paper patterns sold out and were not set to be reprinted. Well the good news is the whole of their TPC collection is now available in downloadable PDF format!
• Christine Haynes is discontinuing her printed patterns to focus on PDF downloads. There was a huge sale to finish up the printed stock but all sold out just yesterday.
• Jennifer Lauren Handmade is trying out a new idea and putting together a group of pattern reviewers to honestly review and spread the word about her patterns. Each month around ten people will be selected to receive the Pattern of the Month and post a review about it.
• French pattern company Mouna Sew are now offering their PDF patterns in English and their accompanying You Tube tutorials feature English subtitles. English paper patterns will be coming towards the end of the year!

There's certainly lots to look forward to over the next few months, not that my sewing queue needs to get any bigger! As usual feel free to add any news I may have missed into the comments and I'll finish up with some indie sewing inspiration from the online community!

• Charlotte's Liberty Print Inari Tee Dress has made me rethink my restraint in the Liberty sale last month...it's so good to know that you can squeeze this dress out of just a metre! Great combination of pattern and print.
• Rachel from The Foldline made a maxi length Charlie Caftan from Closet Case Patterns which is simply scrumptious.
• I would never have though to use broderie anglais to make the Kalle shirt but Helen has used in to perfection! It's the perfect layering piece and the thickness of the embroidery adds structure to the style.
• Pauline blew my mind with her hack of the Papercut Bowline Sweater into a dress. I must own one immediately!
• Melissa made an outstanding fabric choice and then used it to it's fullest potential with her cityscape version of the Gabrielle Dress. It has totally made me rethink this pattern.

Finally as promised I have the winners of the tickets to the Great British Sewing Bee Live to announce! Selected by random number generator the lucky ladies are:

• Crazyrina
• Sarah Guthrie
• Roo
• Emmie
• Astrid Breel

Congratulations! You should each be receiving an email from me shortly so I can get hold of your contact details and arrange for your pair of tickets to be sent out to you. Hope to see you there!
All those of you not so lucky don't forget you can still get £1.50 off the entry ticket price using the code DCS at the checkout.

Cornflower Crepe Holly Trousers

I haven't had a lot of time for sewing recently, which (aside from being incredibly frustrating!) means I'm running low on finished projects to share with you. However, I have had these beauties finished and photographed but as yet un-posted since last summer! Now actually seems like a better time to share them with you though as they didn't get much wear last year and I've fallen back in love with them recently. Luckily I keep a pretty detailed notebook of alterations and my sewing experiences so I'm still able to tell you a bit about the sewing process too!

I really wanted a pair of solid wide legged trousers back when they were starting to creep into fashion  early last year. There's something so effortlessly elegant in the breezy flowing cut. This however was before the influx of patterns for wide legged trousers and culottes happened this spring so I turned to to my stash and happened upon just the thing in the form of the By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit. Unfortunately this is the only one of their pattern collection still waiting to be released as a PDF and the paper run is all sold out so if you're inspired to make your own pair you'll have to beg the BHL ladies or beg/borrow/steal a copy from a sewing pal!

The pattern does come with a waistband piece for making as separates but the line drawings in fact only suggest shorts. I opted to use it for trousers as I was after something simple with a wide leg and I loved the way the shorts fit me when I tested the playsuit a few years back now. The waist hits just where I like a high waisted garment to sit, there is the perfect amount of ease around the bum and depth in the crotch and I like the way they're cut to skim my lower back. I think the key to a great pair of wide legged trousers is to balance that width with a great slim fit around the waist and hips.

The inspiration from my fabric choice came direct from Lisa Comfort at Sew Over It. Just when I was mulling over this project she posted a very similar pair of trousers on their YouTube channel made from their triple crepe. I adored the way these moved and flowed on her and the gorgeous range of colours it comes in sold it for me. In the end I went with the blue violet which unfortunately isn't stocked any more (such a long time ago!) but there are still a lovely range of blues on offer. I had these trousers in mind for wearing on my trip to Antibes, perfect for long summer evenings sipping wine by the sea. Therefore I wanted a fresh, summery colour but nothing too bright or shocking as the style was already quite a departure from the norm for me! This soft cornflower blue has worked out perfectly. Blues always feel quite timeless and classic to me.

I'm not going to lie, the crepe was a bit of a nightmare to work with. Which probably explains why I'm getting so much more enjoyment out of them now. The not so pleasant sewing experience is a distant memory and I can enjoy them for the beautiful trousers that they are! It has a lovely weight and drape which is great to wear; I'd definitely call it a bottom weight and it's one of the heavier crepes I've worked with. If you made a dress with it it would move beautifully but you wouldn't get a lightweight, floppy little dress from it. I've just thought that the red colour would make an amazing bias cut evening gown! I wouldn't have thought that I'd see a plain poly crepe fabric as an option for evening wear but actually in the case of these trousers it's the fabric that makes them feel a little too dressy for everyday.

The poly content was what I had trouble working with. First of all it seems to be made up of lots of tiny little fibres which when cut into go EVERYWHERE. It's not the usually kind of fraying with fluffy threads but lots of little shards. I decided to overlock the raw edges of all my pieces before starting to sew so I didn't have to deal with all the mess! Next I had real a real problem with skipping stitches. I was using a universal size 80 needle and changing it didn't help. As often seems to be the case with a troublesome poly it was actually changing the thread that made all the difference. I started out with Gutermann Sew All but got the best results with a cheap and cheerful Moon polyester spool. Lastly it was difficult to get a nice flat seam as the poly content means you can't turn the iron up too high and steam makes little to no difference as that kind of crepe just bounces right back!

As usual with By Hand London Patterns I cut the US6/UK10. The fit is exactly as I'd hoped and nice and snug around the waist. Their patterns always tend to come up really long on me. I'm 5ft3" so am used to having to shorten things a bit but do find BHL to be quite exceptionally long, particularly their earlier designs. I measured the pattern pieces and compared them to my inside and outside leg measurements before cutting to save wasting fabric. I took 9cm off the hem and this turned out to be pretty much right, although once made up I decided such a glamorous style required floor sweeping length rather than my usual ankle grazing style so I'd not left myself much to play with! I ended up hemming by overlocking the raw edge and just turning the stitching up to save all the length I could. On their eyebrows as they say in the business!

The sewing and fitting process sure makes us discover those little individual quirks about our bodies that I think I wouldn't otherwise notice! It was in the process of making these that I realised that I have one leg longer than the other, or actually more like one hip slightly higher than the other after years of carrying about bags on one shoulder. Lesson learned to always pin the hem on both legs and measure from the floor up rather than the waist down! Another thing to bear in mind when making flowing trousers like these is to be sure you've cut your fabric on grain. Anything off grain will start to make those legs twist and hang funny which will feel mighty uncomfortable as well as looking odd.

Once you've got the fit right (which luckily for me I knew was spot on straight out of the envelope) they are super fast to cut and sew as it's basically three pattern pieces and lots of lovely long seams. The most challenging aspect is putting in the side zip which I've done a lot of now so aside from the fabric issues this was a lovely, mindless, satisfying sew. I definitely recommend sticking with the invisible zip the pattern suggests. It helps maintain the classy clean lines of this style. The skinny waistband is another thing I love about this pattern as it doesn't sag and wrinkle throughout the day as a wider waistband tends to. I interfaced mine with a mid-weight fusible. As I did when I made shorts from this pattern I omitted the waistband overlap with hook and eye fastening in favour of running the zip right up to the top of the waistband. This is just a personal preference of mine as I've never been able to get a neat and tidy finish on the overlap but have had quite a lot of practice inserting invisible zips!

It's been quite fun reviewing a project so long after making it as I can look at it with fresh eyes and properly review the fit and quality. It is kind of weird to look back at photos I took a year ago though! Look how tanned and healthy looking I was! Definitely been working too much this year. I used to live in my skinny jeans while I was working but after a bout of lovely summer weather over the last couple of months it felt really weird to put them on for the first time the other day. Wide legs seem to be taking over my wardrobe!

Win Tickets to The Great British Sewing Bee Live!

Just a quick post today for my UK based readers (or readers further afield who might fancy a trip to London in October!). There's a new dressmaking event in town brought to us by Upper Street Events in collaboration with Love Productions who brought us The Great British Sewing Bee! The Great British Sewing Bee Live will be taking place at Excel London from 21st-24th September 2017 and there will be a whole host of things going on to entertain and inspire anyone with a passion for sewing, fashion and textiles.

It looks to have a fairly similar format to the Knitting & Stitching Show which I've had a brilliant time attending for the last few years. I always discover something knew and leave inspired to sew but as much as I'm interested in and inspired by all kinds of craft my real passion is sewing and dressmaking so I'm really excited to see an event focused purely on that. Plus of course anything to do with the Bee has my extra special interest as I was lucky enough to combine my work and my hobby and join the sewing team last series as fabric buyer!

There is a huge array of things on offer to do and see including dressmaking drop-in clinics, a catwalk and garment and vintage fashion galleries. Of course one of the main draws for me at this kind of event are the exhibitors stalls and there will be over 200 dressmaking and sewing suppliers offering up their goods. Of course it wouldn't be a GBSB event without the chance to rub shoulders with prior contestants and judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young. A visit won't be complete without attending one of the Super Theatre sessions where Jenny Eclair will be hosting two shows a day including live sewing challenges with former contestants and audience members. I'm beginning to think that a single day ticket may not be enough!

One of the things I was most impressed with when looking into the event was the variety of workshops on offer (over 250 across the four days!). They vary in length from 1-3 hours and there is pretty much something for everyone with all abilities and specialities catered for. I was really delighted to see some more advanced sessions included in their number and found plenty to interest me. I was very tempted by the fitting classes including the one on tissue fitting which is a technique I have never attempted but have also never tried machine embroidery and find the idea quite intriguing. In the end I stuck with what I love and focused the nitty gritty of sewing techniques and construction. I've got myself booked onto the Double Welt Pockets Workshop led by GBSB competitor Paul Clarke and am really looking forward to it.

The good news is for you guys that I have five pairs of tickets to give away! All you need to do to be in with a chance of winning is leave a comment below. Make sure to include your email address if it is not easily accessible on your blog profile so I can contact the lucky winners directly. You have until midnight GMT on Sunday 30th July to enter and I will announce the winners in my monthly Indie Pattern Update post on Monday. Good luck!

If you're super keen to come along and want to book yourself a ticket then make sure to use the discount code the event organisers have been so kind to offer me to share with you. Enter the code DCS at the checkout for a £1.50 discount on adult advance ticket sales and concessions. I hope to see many of you there!

Teal Linen Turia Dungarees

If you follow me on Instagram you may have noticed my quest last week for the perfect pattern to use for a pair of relaxed summer dungarees. I was torn between a few options which I liked various elements of and you guys threw a few more excellent choices into the mix! One that kept coming up as a favourite were the Pauline Alice Turia Dungarees, although the Wear Lemonade Fiona were a close second and nearly won out purely because of the name! However, I really liked the classic details of the Turias, the shape of the back bib and the width through the leg. I’ve also often had success with her patterns in the past as I’m quite petite and the proportions work quite well for me. Although the samples weren’t quite the look I was after a quick Google threw up some other blogger makes using this pattern which I adored.

I wasn’t sure on the dungaree trend when it first came about last year but over the past few months I’ve seen some really grown up and classy looks incorporating them. Combine that with the practicality of all those pockets and the fact that you can crawl, bend and run around like a toddler (which my job seems to require more than I like!) and I was sold. I actually bought McCalls 7547 back in early spring and some gorgeous grey denim to make them in but it’s been too hot for wearing that much close fitting denim in London recently and as usual I wanted to make something I could wear now! I became slightly obsessed with pinning images of summer dungarees over on Pinterest actually including a few pairs of Turias. The common features of all of them were a more slouchy relaxed leg than the slim denim pair I had been envisioning, still some element of fit through the waist to retain some femininity plus a finer softer fabric like a linen or viscose.

I tend to find a pattern I want to work with before I find fabric but on this occasion I had the fabric before the pattern. When The Fabric Store got in touch a couple of months ago to offer me some fabric I tried hard to branch out from my usual choice of their beautiful merino jerseys. I decided it was about time I tried out some of their linen and realised it was the perfect opportunity to find some for my dungarees. They have a not huge but varied range of linen in lots of colours, weights and even prints. This floral embroidered one has particularly caught my eye! It didn’t take me long to decide on this deep teal which is enough like a denim to work as a neutral with lots of the tops in my wardrobe but is still a little bit different. It’s one of their light to mid-weight linens which is great for dress making. It has a bit of structure and weight but after a wash has just the kind of flop and movement I was after.

As to be expected with a linen it does wrinkle quite badly but that works out quite nicely for this kind of relaxed, practical garment. It does fray but apart from that is great to work with and washes and presses beautifully. I kept my iron on a medium heat rather than high as it started to get a bit of a shine when too hot. The only thing I’m slightly unsure about is how sheer it might be in direct sunlight; I’ll need to get someone to check if they can see my pants before I go out and about! I’ve had this worry before with linen because it tends to have quite an open weave and in the past have underlined but I didn’t want to with these as I wanted to retain a lightweight feel without too much body. I had 2m of the linen (which you need for the length of the pieces) but would have had more than enough in the scraps to cut some bias binding or lining for the bib but more on that later.

My t-shirt is a v-neck Sewaholic Renfrew Top made in one of the new marle rib knits also from The Fabric Store. This colour is plaster and is amazing stuff. It has a nice spongy thickness to it and feels soft and dense unlike a lot of the cheaper ribbing fabrics I’ve come across on Goldhawk Road. It feels nice against the skin and has great recovery. I did manage to stretch it out when sewing the sleeve hems but have managed to steam it back into shape. I omitted the cuff and hem bands as with a couple of my previous Renfrews and used a twin needle instead which I think was the cause of the problem. The ribbing comes in three other lovely neutral shades and all of them have been added to the wish-list for my next order!

Back to the dungarees. I cut a size 38 through the bust and waist and graded out to 40 at the hips. I'm really pleased I did as I think the 38 would have been too tight across the bum. I have previously cut a straight 38 with Pauline Alice patterns (Seda Dress and Quart Jacket) but these haven’t involved fitting at the hip so I made sure to double check the finished measurements and decided I could do with the extra room. I'm pretty happy with the fit overall and they are super comfortable. I have found with my Cleo Pinafore Dress that no matter how much I shorten the straps they want to slip off the shoulders and the dress shifts around but these sit really nicely. The length through the body is just right with the straps fastened as they are. One thing to note is that I don't have all that much excess strap pulled through and I'm fairly petite so if you're tall you might want to consider lengthening the strap as a precaution.

I'd make a couple of little tweaks to the fit if I made this pattern again. The width of the leg around the thigh is on the verge of being too tight when I lift my leg so I’d add maybe just half and inch in that area. However what I do really like about this pattern is the slimmer fit around the bum and just above it giving you a feminine shape through the back. One thing to note is that the leg is a cropped length so it’s worth measuring before you cut although them hem allowance is pretty deep which gives you a bit to play with. These are hemmed at the intended length but I'm wearing them rolled up twice the depth of the hem.

I love all the little details of this pattern and the way they are enhanced with all that topstitching that I love to do! I think it adds a great professional looking touch to any garment on which it is appropriate. If you are going to do the double top-stitching as suggested I would recommend doing a couple of samples and noting the guide point on your machine for how far away the first and then second line of stitching should be away from the seam. I aligned the seam line with the inner edge of my machine foot for the first pass then lined that row of stitching up with the outer edge of the foot for the second. Nice and easy to follow. I kept mine subtle with a matching standard sew-all thread. I was so keen on keeping it subtle that I actually made a trip out to get some thread once I had the pattern cut out as I realised I didn't have any quite the right shade and a black or navy would have been too harsh.

Proportionally the shape and size of all the pockets are spot on I think and I liked that there were different placement marks for different size groups as the position of pockets can have such a dramatic effect on how flattering a pattern is. The back pockets are quite small so if I was making a larger size I might consider making them a little bigger. Despite looking great the front pockets are not as roomy as I’d hoped they might be. I can only just get my hands in and I’ve got very small hands. The front bib pocket is better suited to holding my phone.

I omitted one of the side seam zips which it seems from blog posts I've read that most people have done. I can get them on and off fairly easily with just one.The pattern calls for regular zips but I chose to go with invisible as I just love them plus my local shop didn't have the right shade of a regular. If I made proper denim pair with contrast topstitching I'd definitely like to try using an exposed metal zip and in that case would use two to make a feature of them.

I had real trouble with threading on my dungaree clips but had great fun with the hammer setting in the buttons! I ended up figuring out the ideal length of the strap and sewing them in place once the clip was threaded on as they wouldn’t fasten securely on their own. It’s a shame they’re now not adjustable but I don’t need them to be. I used Hemline ones (the brand that come in the pink packets). All the advice I could find online for threading them seemed to involve an extra bar so you could thread the strap through one more time which would have secured it. These just would not stay in place!

It's a great pattern in many respects but I wasn't sure about some of the finishing techniques. When you're going to the effort of using flat felled seams and all that lovely topstitching is seems a shame to finish the edges of the bib by just turning in once and topstitching, leaving a raw edge visible. With the amount this linen frayed that just wasn't an option for me but I wish I'd known from the start so I could think the finishing through. On this pair I just decided to overlock all the raw edges that were visible as it would match what I had done on the side seams of the legs. At least this looks neat, tidy and less homemade. Pauline does suggest using binding to finish any fraying fabrics and I'd like to look into this next time or alternatively lining both the front and back bib. In this Tessuti post Gabby has added a facing to the waistline which I think is a great idea and would work particularly well with a lined bib.

Because I really had to think through the instructions and keep looking a couple of steps ahead to figure out if that was the way I wanted to finish things I didn't find myself getting mindlessly lost in the project as I do with some. Plus it was the first time I've sewn a pair of dungarees so I had no tried and tested method to fall back on! You definitely need both the written instructions and illustrations to figure your way through this one. They're good and give you the guidance you need but there's no extra tips and tricks and you definitely need to use your own sewing know-how to achieve the best results. But I had them made in one very enjoyable day and didn’t get frustrated with any part of the process.

Despite having some qualms about the finishing I'm actually really delighted with how neatly these have turned out. All that topstitching gives a lovely crisp and clean result and the fabric is just what I wanted. They feel really ‘me’. Thanks to all of you who gave me pattern choice on Instagram, I definitely made the right decision. Let’s hope the lovely weather hangs about so I can get lots of wear out of these!

Planning a Handmade Wardrobe with Sewing Journals and Swatch Books

I haven't had all that much time for sewing in the last few months and once things slowed down I felt so bewildered by all the things I wanted to make and the growing size of my fabric stash that I wasn't sewing either. To get back into the groove of things I decided to literally go back to the drawing board, get organised and plan out my next few projects. With limited sewing time part of me has always scorned wasting any of those precious hours or planning or sketching out ideas, until last year. I put a lot of consideration into the handmade additions I made to my wardrobe last summer and found that really successful. I got so much wear out of those pieces and have been excited to get them back out again now the weather has heated up in London.

I really don't need to be buying anymore fabric so the first step was taking stock of my stash. I'm sure most of what is in there I bought with a specific plan in mind so I wanted to revaluate and see if I still wanted to make those things or put those fabrics to better use elsewhere. I keep my stash in a big basket so it's quite hard to see what I've got and a real pain to dig something out from the bottom to check how much of it. I've tried various methods for keeping tabs over the years but never been able to keep on top of any of them. Enter the 110 Creations Sewist's Swatch Book which Beth kindly sent me a copy to try out months back.

The notebook is organised with a page for each fabric in your stash and provides a template for noting down everything you might need to know in future, complete with space for a fabric swatch. The layout is well thought out and the fabric swatch square is always on the outer edge so you can reach it with a stapler. Whenever I've tried to catalogue things before I've never though about including fabric care instructions or the stretch percentage; both of which would be really useful to have to hand when contemplating a future project! There's a care symbol key and stretch percentage guide to measure against included at the front of the book to make this straightforward.

Most sections on the template include options to circle rather than being left blank to fill in. Whilst for many things I find this really useful and quick on some I find it perhaps a little too restrictive. But there is always an 'other' space for writing in your own option. The 'Content' section includes a multitude of fabric types to circle yet the types of fabric on the market nowadays are endless so that won't cover all bases. I do love that one of the options is 'Mystery' though! There are numerous pieces of fabric in my stash that I have no clue to the content of! I like that the 'Length' section doesn't state whether in yards or metres as different people have their own preference but a large proportion of the pieces in my stash are leftovers from previous projects so aren't a nice round 1 2 or 3 metre piece.

Once I got into the swing of entering things I found my own method of using the book though and it has definitely changed the accessibility of my stash, encouraging me to use it more. It is pretty time consuming to put together at first but is very quick to add individual fabrics each time you buy a new piece. Plus it's really satisfying to see all those neat and tidy pages an swatches! I can't think of a single extra thing I'd add to the template and feel like I'll never need to go rummaging through the depths of my big fabric basket again. If you feel like your stash could benefit from a good sort out and catalogue you're in luck as Beth is actually offering a 30% discount on the swatch book until Monday 17th July. Use the code SAVENOW30 at the checkout.

Now I had a rough idea of which fabrics I'd like to use for which garments the next step was making some more detailed project plans. I used the Sew Crafty Journal for this to much success last year and have got back into the groove of that. It's great for allocating patterns to fabrics, listing what notions you might need and sketching out changes you might make to the pattern. The project pages alternate with ideas and notes pages throughout the book which is a nice mixture that doesn't restrict you. I think these areas are good for loosely jotting down and roughly sketching ideas for future projects that may not be so set in stone that they need a full project page.

I haven't used the what went right/wrong and what I would do differently sections all that much as I found the categories quite broad for quite a limited space and often spilled over into the full page notes section overleaf to write freestyle instead. I have found it more useful for planning out ideas in advance rather than recording changes and decisions you made throughout the construction process. I think I'd prefer specific slots for jotting down the size I cut and any changes I made to the flat pattern plus how much fabric I used as I quite often get to writing a blog post and realise in all the excitement of starting to sew I didn't write these down which are kind of essential points I try to include in every review.

But in saying that I like that it's not too specific and gives you that freedom for creativity that you need in the planning stages. I used to just make lists of my sewing plans but I'm actually quite a visual person so being able to collect fabric scraps and sketches along with written ideas I find really motivating. I particularly like that the areas for sketching are blank so that you can draw details or just elements of a project if you wish rather than full garments on human figures all the time. I'd also like to experiment with using it as a scrapbook and sticking in some inspiration images. I was unsure about what to use the small box on the right hand project page for but now I'm looking at it again it might be nice to include a photo of the finished garment to look back on!

I think I'm still figuring out how to get the best use of this one as a planner but going through the process of filling it out and taking the time to do the drawings actually really encourages me to devote some proper thought to a project before getting happy with the scissors. I've definitely come up with some more creative ideas as a result and made little changes to a pattern to better suit me which I've only thought about as I was sketching that part of the drawing. It encourages me to see what I probably wouldn't have seen until I'd sewn that part up if you get what I mean.

Last summer's sewing plans

I feel like the fact that I am finding myself with a successful handmade wardrobe has a lot to do with the fact that I took a little step back from jumping straight on the sewing machine to actually plan; considering what I wanted to wear and projects that would fill in some gaps. The planning has really fired up my sewjo again and I'm longing for a solid few days of machine time!

A project page from 110 Creations: A Sewist's Notebook

There are a multitude of sewing planners on the market at the moment. By Hand London have just released their PDF version complete with stash log. The fact that it's printable is brilliant as you can print as many or as few of each page type as you need. I also own the 110 Creations Sewist's Notebook (above) which I like for the big A4 pages with lots of room for scribbling lots of notes! Plus the handy needle change record and pattern catalogue sections. This one has sections for noting down alterations made and notes for next time so could be great used in combination with the Sew Crafty Journal. Both Gertie and Jenny have released sketchbooks with croquis suited to their target market. Have you used this kind of journal to plan your sewing before? What do you find useful?

'Creating Couture Embellishment' by Ellen W. Miller

Any of my friends and family will be able to tell you that my love for books, especially huge coffee table tomes about the history of fashion, is verging on an obsession. Especially my Dad who has helped me move my ever increasing collection from flat to flat over the last decade! I have a huge bookcase of beautiful books covering sewing, costume and all genres of fashion. It may seem strange therefore that I don't often write sewing book reviews but in all honesty I have so many books and so little space now that it takes something really specially to get a yes when asked 'would you like a review copy?' It took me about 2 seconds to decide when Laurence King got in touch with me last month and I got my first peak at 'Creating Couture Embellishment' by Ellen W. Miller. YES PLEASE!

The book is set for release here in the UK on July 17th 2017 but is a timeless sourcebook of ideas for fabric manipulation and decoration. The author has taught extensively at Boston School of Fashion, focusing on couture construction but has also worked in theatre as a costumier, wardrobe mistress and stage hand so that really interested me! I can clearly see the influence of historical costume detail in some of the embellishments and fabric treatments.

As excited as I was for it to arrive it surpassed all my expectations when it did. I was awaiting the standard size of sewing text book but in actual fact it's a huge doorstop of a book at 400 pages. Karen from Did You Make That actually weighed hers! The morning it arrived I was on the way out of the door but stopped to have a quick flick through and ended up dragging it all the way into work with me so I could show the ladies in wardrobe how good it was. The publisher described it as a thing of beauty and it sure is.

After the initial basic tools and techniques chapter (which I actually found much more interesting than I expected as the stitches and techniques described are relevant to couture methods) the book is divided into Fabric Manipulation and Embellishment & Trimmings. These are then divided into various subcategories including pleats, tucks and ruffles in the fabric section and bias, lace and feathers in embellishment. The embellishment section doesn't just teach you how to apply it but how to make it too! One of the largest categories is hand embroidery, then followed by ribbon embroidery which I feel like might be a good place for me to start as this is something I already understand and enjoy.

My favourite chapter is the last in the book; Flowers. There are some jaw-droppingly beautiful creations in here, not least the carnations and fox gloves. I see a trip to VV Rouleaux coming on! I can't imagine being able to create something so lovely but the step by step instructions make it sound almost simple. Each technique is explained with a thorough combination of full colour photographs and clear diagrams.

The visual index is probably my favourite double page spread in the book. I'm personally much more likely to be drawn to an image and be encouraged to dive into the book than I would be by a written index. It's a great idea. Just look at all those colours, fabrics and details!

The pleating chapter fascinated me. First it takes you through how to calculate all the types of pleats you might be familiar like box pleats, knife pleats and cartridge pleats, then onto wrinkle pleating which completely blew my mind! pleats are created by compressing the fabric around various objects such as broomsticks and pipes! I particularly liked that the book also explains how to cut pattern pieces for pleated fabric and how to then sew with them. Really accessible. The clean and simple aesthetic of the book throughout really helps when trying to understand these quite complex and unusual processes. I also liked that an example of each technique is shown on a sleeve at the top of each page; it's much more inspiring to see the technique in use than a small sample.

The detailed breakdowns of the techniques and the accuracy required for, for example, these knot fastenings pictured above really appeals to me. I personally get a lot of enjoyment from making my projects 'properly' and following instructions to the letter so this kind of intricate work is right up my street. As much as I have also enjoyed experimenting with the processes of freehand drafting and draping and being a bit more free with my sewing there is something so satisfying about following things meticulously step by step. I'm very much like that with cooking too actually; I like to have a recipe and love to bake.

I haven't actually had the time to attempt any of the techniques yet and would love to block myself out a few days of staycation to do a little workshop. However, I feel like just reading through the book has totally opened my mind to the vast array of possibilities when working with fabrics and embellishment. In fact I feel a little overwhelmed with inspiration. I think my next step should be to sit down and take a look at my sewing queue and see which projects I might be able to work some of my newfound ideas into. Although many of the techniques ares special and unusual many of them are in fact very wearable and needn't be reserved for special occasion wear.

The home sewing community is very lucky to have a huge number of sewing publications on offer to us but it is such a breath of fresh air to see an in depth book released for more advanced seamstress and those of us who want to take our learning a little further. This book certainly doesn't skim over the topic but gives you all the juicy details. These are the kind of books that get me excited. I know it will delight both us home sewers and the professional costume makers I work with alike.

This beauty of a book is now occupying pride of place on my shelves and has earned the spot ten times over for the enjoyment I've already had from it. Thank you Laurence King for my already much loved copy and for motivating me to get even more creative with my future projects. For any of you looking to take your sewing up a notch or even just branch out into some new techniques make sure to add this to your wish-list.

June Indie Pattern Update!

Hi guys! I warned you that this month's post might be a little late and brief...so here I am three days late but I think I did better than I thought keeping up with the news. What can I say...I addicted to hunting down the new patterns! I've been working on three shows at once for the last few weeks and definitely haven't been as focused as usual so please feel free to add in anything I've missed and you'd like to share in the comments below. Although with the length of the list I find it hard to believe there can be more! Make sure to check out Kate and Rachel's post over at The Foldline too for a more detailed look at some of the new releases. 

Just before I plunge into the June news I wanted to bring your attention to a new campaign by the British Heart Foundation which launched on Saturday called The Big Stitch. For the whole month of July they are encouraging us to pop into our closest BHF shop and find an item to up-cycle and give a new lease of life to no matter what your level of sewing skill. I think it's a fantastic idea supporting the slow fashion movement and a brilliant charity in the process and if you upload photos of your creations you're in for the chance of winning a prize! More info on The Big Stitch can be found here. For inspiration on customising and reinventing your charity shop finds make sure to check out Sally's blog Charity Shop Chic.

New Patterns

• Opian Patterns kicked off the month with the release of two new one-piece swimsuit patterns. I'm so wishing I had a beach holiday booked as I love the simplicity of both the Jamanota and Säntis designs. The patterns are available in both French and English.
• Seamingly Smitten released the Royal Street Top which is very on trend for summer with ruffles and the ability to wear the style off the shoulder, on the shoulder or on one shoulder.
• New releases from Style Arc this month included the Roslyn Tunic Dress and the Lennie Overshirt plus the new Dimity Woven Top and Terry Tie Cardigan are July's freebie patterns with any purchase.
• The Malaga Pleated Hem Top is new from Waffle Patterns and features two neckline options, two sleeve lengths and two back length options to choose from.
• Not technically indie but still worth including for any lingerie sewing fans...Madalynne released her next three patterns in collaboration with Simplicity. She's given us a lot to play with including a strapless bra, plunge bra and knit bodysuit. 
• The new patterns released with June's issue of Seamwork Magazine were the Loretta Top and Patsy Skirt. I love the way they've used the gingham and stripes on the Patsy samples to make the most out of the panelled design.
• Hey June Handmade released the Key Largo Top which is a casual boxy woven tee with a bias cut front and option for an on trend tie front hem.
• Ohhh Lulu treated us to two new lingerie patterns with the Kate Camisole and Anouk Bodysuit. There's also a free downloadable add-on tutorial available for Anouk to turn it into a fully lined swimsuit.
• Trend Patterns launched their summer collection which is comprised of six patterns including the TPC7 Pleated Shoulder Dress, TPC8 Trench Jacket, TPC9 Drawstring Dress and TPC12 Utility Trouser plus two additions to their basics range, TPC11 Knot Front Dress and TPC10 Wide Legged Flares. If you're after unique design features and bold shapes this is the collection for you!
• After a little lull in new releases By Hand London had two new PDF pattern launches in June! The Poppy Dress and Top is their first foray into designs for knit fabrics and the relaxed style includes a box pleat detail along the raglan sleeve seam. The Orsola Dress and Skirt is an absolute stunner of a classy wrap style which I've already posted about here. I did actually test both patterns but haven't gotten around to photographing Poppy yet!
• New from On The Cutting Floor are the Alice Top, Tunic and Dress and Marsella Top and Dress patterns. I love the combo of wrap front and butterfly sleeves on the knit Marsella but am equally taken with the cut out back neckline on Alice.
• I was really excited about the new Sakura collection from Papercut Patterns and it did not disappoint! I've already made the Aomori Twist Top in a beautiful merino knit and have got my eye on the Nagoya Pants or Kobi Dress/Top next. The collection also includes the Kyoto Sweater/Tee, Kochi Kimono, Otsu Jeans, Mito Cami/Dress, Himeji Bag and Sapporo Coat which has been getting a lot of love on social media.
• The Laneway Dress is new from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. It has a distinctive 1940s silhouette with a-line skirt and collar detail which exposes a contrast facing.
• Itch to Stitch released both the Beausoliel Top & Dress and Oceanside Dress. There's a real elegance to the fit of the Beausoliel Dress variation whilst the latter has a more youthful fun to it.
• Causing a real storm of interest on social media is the new Charlie Kaftan from Closet Case Patterns. I've already seen a handful of these pop up less than a week after the release! It's a great style to showcase a bold summer weight fabric.
• A real queue jumper for me this month was the Burnside Bibs pattern from Sew House Seven. I've been eyeing up various dungaree and overall patterns with a relaxed fit to pair with some beautiful teal linen I've got and the unique details of these might be just the ticket.
• Hot Patterns released the HP1218 Weekender St Parts Tunic-Dress and Blouse pattern. They're also having a huge summer clearance sale so get over there quick!
• Ready to Sew released Joanne which is a pattern for a wide legged cropped culotte or short and has the option for a classic or 'paper bag' waistband. I really like the way the slightly curved hem mirrors the shape of the big overlapping patch pockets.
• There are two new summer patterns available over at Wardrobe By Me; the Summer Breeze Tunic and Summer Tulip Top. I like the contemporary feel of the high, slightly gathered neckline on the Tulip Top.
• New from Sew This Pattern is the Gypsy Swing Top which is just the addition my summer wardrobe needs for pairing with jeans or shorts. I've love a halter neckline and it balances the ruffle hem really nicely.
• With a similar ruffle hemline is the Designer Stitch Ella Cami Set, but this time with classic spaghetti style straps. This pattern also comes with elasticated shorts or trousers and is currently included in their sale. Now I'm really torn between the two!
• Evie La Luve released the Jamie Bodysuit & Separates. The cut out design and strap around the waist joining the two parts mean you can combine any size bra with any size pant easily. The bra portion is also available to buy separately.
• The latest pattern from Jenny over at Cashmerette is the Webster Top & Dress. The semi fitted style makes it perfect for summer whilst still flattering on curves. I love the scrappy back v neckline detail.
• I love the new Linda Wrap Dress from Just Patterns. It's a classy, slightly more advanced design with beautiful belt and collar details. I'm yet to find time to try a pattern from this fairly new company and this could be the one to tempt me.
• New from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic are the Gina Shorts; a classic wardrobe staple with jeans style details and faux cuffs. The proportions are designed to suit a petite frame.
• The PDF pattern release from Sew Over It for June was the Penny Dress. The kind of simple shirtdress that every wardrobe needs with a 1950s feel. If you're yet to tackle a shirt or shirtdress this could be a great place to start as the elasticated waist and flat collar make it straightforward to fit and sew.
• Kommatia released a pattern for Short Jeans Overalls including multiple pockets and classic dungaree straps. The shaping and piecing of the back bib is my favourite feature.
• New from Chalk and Notch is the Pony Tank and Dress; an easy to sew and wear knit top or dress with an a-line shape and curved hem. 
• I'd somehow missed that Pattern Review had been releasing a line of exclusive patterns! New in June was the Claire Wrap Dress. Designed for stable knit fabrics it's a true wardrobe classic with wide bands, close fit and collar.
• Decades of Style released the 1930s Last Resort Beach Pyjamas; such a great glamorous style! My favourite features are the v back which plunges to the waist (optional modesty panel included) and that the pattern includes the instructions for the diamond appliqué trim on hem and cuffs.
• The Chari Dress & Shirt and Amanda Shirt are new from Schnittchen. They've obviously got ruffles as on the brain as I have and have used them in two different creative ways on these designs.
• And last but by no means least the new Megan Nielsen Matilda Shirtdress is a real stunner. The combination of including a waistband, full length front placket, princess seams and yoke remind me a little of my all time favourite M6696 shirtdress pattern but the full skirt gives it a feminine twist and the patch breast pockets add a utility feel. All those details will make for a really lovely challenging sew. 

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• The Tailoress has been busy with the pattern updates this month. The new version of the Barbara Monokini includes the addition of a tie under the bust and the Jersey Bra and French Knicker PDF patterns have been improved too.
• Ohhh Lulu launched the Prism add-on for her Jasmine Bra to enable you to create a sheer mesh insert or scalloped lace insert at the centre front.
• The Fehr Trade XYT Workout Top pattern is now a layered PDF meaning you can choose to look at and print just the size(s) you want and also just the language you want too as it is now available in Dutch and French as well as English.

Sew-alongs

• Megan Nielsen has been running a sew-along for her Rowan Bodysuit and Tee focusing on the more challenging aspects of construction and including hacks for a snap crotch, scoop neck and dress version.
• Victory Patterns have just started a sew-along for their last pattern; the Jackie Dress. I'll be following along with this one as it's a style I've got my eye on for winter.
• The sew-along for By Hand London's new Orsola Dress starts on 5th July. The pattern has a few fiddly construction aspects which I'm sure a photographic tutorial will be really useful for.
• Love Notions posted a sew-along for their Rhapsody Blouse throughout June which included a dress hack and tips for inserting a lace trim which is a great addition to the boho vibe of this style.
• Jenny from Cashmerette is part way through a sew-along for her new Webster Top & Dress over on her blog. Sometimes I love a read through a sew-along as it highlights clever construction details I'd initially missed about a pattern!

Upcoming!

• As well as all her pattern updates and expansions The Tailoress has a new swimsuit pattern with cut out back coming soon!
• The next pattern from The Avid Seamstress is for a Shift Dress and will be with us on 8th July.

Other Exciting News

• Sew Over It launched their Intro to Sewing with Knit Fabrics online course earlier in the month. I tested the course which was a new experience for me and one I really enjoyed. You get patterns for and guided through the construction of both a top and a dress as part of the course and I very much recommend it for anyone new to sewing knits or anyone who wants some extra guidance or tips. 
• The Deer & Doe Belladone Dress is the next of their patterns to get the PDF treatment and is available to download now.
• Style Arc launched their new website which I love the clean simplicity of. They are now selling PDF downloads on their own site rather than through third parties and this means their free pattern of the month offer is now available with PDF purchases!
• Also with a new website launching was Grainline Studio. Their website has the same lovely minimal aesthetic but is now more cohesive with everything easy to find in one place rather than add ons to the original blog.
• By Hand London released a downloadable sewing planner including pages for project planning, stash organisation and croquis of six body types for you to sketch out ideas on. I love that it's printable so you'll never run out of the pages you need and you can keep to the pages most useful to you.

I think that's about it for the news from June. There have been a few new releases I've already spotted in the first few days of July but I'm going to save them for next month's post as usual. Here's your monthly dose of indie inspiration from the online sewing community to get you inspired at the start of a new week!

• Carolyn has been sewing up some really beautiful underwear of late and I think this Liberty print set may be my favourite. She used a MakeBra pattern and the briefs from the Watson. I love the combination of vivid print and contrast binding and straps.
• The Farrow Dress didn't grab me enough to make it onto the sewing queue when it was first released but Dixie has completely changed my mind with her beautiful textured chambray version.
• I spotted Lindsay's stunning La Sylphide Blouse on Instagram a couple of months back and have been obsessed with finding as pretty a print to make my own ever since. She also made those Ginger Jeans!
• Karen's first version (yes she'd already made two!) of the Charlie Kaftan is joyous. Great combo of fabric and style; it's a design made for Ikat!
• My eyes honed straight in on Allie's pink Papercut Adrift Dress when I opened my blog feed one morning. I'd not clocked how lovely the ruffle details are before and in that hot pink delicate rayon they are exquisite! 

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