December Indie Pattern Update!

The final Indie Pattern Update of the year is upon us and what a year of pattern releases it has been! I expected a slightly slower month of news as things slowed down for Christmas and designers took a well deserved break but there have still been a vast number of new releases and some absolute gems amongst them. I know many of you are making plans for 2018 sewing at the moment so hopefully this round up will give you some more ideas. I know I want to challenge myself next year so have got my eyes peeled for unusual and complex patterns to help me do that. What patterns are you looking out for?

New Pattern Companies!

• Coffee and Thread released their very first ladies pattern this month (they already have some children's designs) in the form of the Sirocco Top and Dress. I love the way those bell sleeves fall and would like to own multiple in sandwashed silk. Looking forward to seeing more from them.
• Pipe Dream Patterns launched with their first pattern; My Sew Called Sweater. This is a pattern for an oversized, slouchy sweater than drops off the shoulder and has options for adding ribbing. Love their sample idea in a sheer knit.
• The third new pattern company for the month is Rochad Studio who launched with the Mary Jane Coat. A loose fitting design, with raglan sleeves, patch pockets and a snuggly ribbed collar with detachable scarf. I'd love to see one of these made up in a lightweight boiled wool.

New Patterns

• Lisa Comfort launched her new magazine which included the new Sew Over It Cocoon Coat pattern. This has been a popular Sew Over It class for a while now and is currently only available with the magazine. A great winter project the start the new year with and a very manageable coat.
• The two patterns released with the December edition of Seamwork Magazine were the Erica Dress and Jill Coatigan. Both of these are great winter wardrobe staples and I'm really tempted to make up the wrap dress in a merino knit. Such a flattering style.
• New from Wear Lemonade are the Francesca Trousers. I think these kind of high waisted, wide legged trousers are going to be a big trend throughout 2018 so this pattern is high on my wishlist!
• Named Patterns released the Lahja Unisex Dressing Gown as part of their advent calendar. I love the simplicity of this; it looks like it would be fun and satisfying to put together and great to make as a gift.
• A pattern I missed last month but is definitely worthy of a mention is the Truffle Coat from Lara Sanner. Its a pattern for a raglan-sleeved coat which I love made up as a raincoat as version 1 has all those classic features with the hood, zipper placket and patch pockets. The sunshine yellow waterproof sample is a delight!
• I also managed to miss the release of the Chestnut Sweater from CocoWawa Crafts which is now also available in a mini child size. The ribbon tie across the back neckline is a gorgeous detail on a classic style. I love it made up in a fluffy pastel knit.
• Measure Twice Cut Once released the Henrietta Swimsuit which I adore the low strappy back of. I'm sure many of you have spotted on Instagram that Susan has had a truly awful December with her flat in Australia being destroyed by fire while in the UK over Christmas, on top of a very difficult year. If any of her patterns take your fancy I do urge you to make a purchase and help her to get back on her feet and replace her studio sewing equipment. Let's make 2018 a better year for her.
• Mood have continued to rapidly add to their collection of free pattern downloads. December's releases included a wide variety of designs including the Caladium Coat, D'Arcy Bralette, Dahlia Coat and Evergreen Accessories, plus the Daphne Smoking Jacket for men and even a couple of Cosplay designs in the form of Andromeda and Atlas.
• The latest release from Just Patterns is the Yasmeen Skirt. I love the glamour of the fishtail on this beautifully fitted maxi skirt and think it would make up in a whole variety of special fabrics. The clean cut allowing the fabric to shine. 
• Noodlehead released the Minimalist Wallet PDF pattern which includes mini and regular size versions, both featuring various card slots and zip-up pouches. If you'd prefer the pattern in print this is one the three patterns included in Anna's new Everyday Essentials Booklet which is all about guiding you through sewing accessories. The other two patterns included are the Wool & Wax Tote and Petal Pouch.
• The Nixie Briefs are new from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. Designed for knit fabrics the curved overlapping sides give you opportunity to play around with contrast fabrics and trims with instructions included for finishing with fold-over or lingerie elastic.
• DP Studio launched their third collection which is packed with interesting style lines and pieces that make me want to sew them just to see how they come together! The asymmetric sweatshirt would probably have more of a place in my wardrobe than most but I'm quite taken with the drama of the ruffle skirt and coat with incorporated scarf.
• The Santi Skirt is new from Designer Stitch. Its an interesting 8 gore panelled skirt which I love made up in different shades of blue denim in the sample. I'm also really taken with the options for the tied front on the waistband.
• Amongst the releases from DG Patterns in December were the Hannah Top & Dress, Roma Dress and Leah Shirt. I'm most taken with the asymmetrical gathered panel running across the front of Hannah; a contemporary take on the ruffle trend.
• There were a number of free pattern download treats released from the festive season and Tessuti's offering was the the Athina Top which is also available to buy in printed format. A lovely, simple and wearable cuffed top which might soon be making an appearance in my wardrobe!
• Another lovely free top pattern download is the Uvita Top from Itch to Stitch. Its a dropped shoulder knit top with a relaxed fit which I think would look great in a soft viscose jersey.
• Sew Over It's PDF release for December is the Full Circle Skirt. A fairy quick and simple make and an easy way to add glamour to any outfit.
• Wardrobe by Me released the men's Boxer Short pattern just in time to whip up a pair or two as Christmas gifts. They also updated their Hubert Hoodie pattern to include their increased size range and a print at copy shop option.
• I've got stacks of large-ish fabric scraps left over from recent sewing projects that I'm struggling to work out what to do with but can't bear to throw out. The new Reversible Beanie pattern from Savvy Patterns could be just the thing.
• Opian Patterns released the Rigi Jumper. A cropped or hip length jumper with batwing sleeves and the option to make with or without a centre front box pleat, I think this could be really interesting made up in chunky textured knits.
• New from Red Rabbit Mercantile is the McGregor Field Tote. I've only just discovered these practical, durable bag designs and love the utility vibe of the samples made up in waxed cottons and webbing.
• Kommatia Patterns had a few new releases this month including the Tonare twisted mini skirt (currently on sale!), the Andy turtleneck sweater with dropped shoulder and the fab Susan cropped denim jacket. Love the 80s vibe and details of the jacket!
• The Priscilla Body Con Dress is the latest release from the relatively new Rosy Pena Patterns. It looks great made up in stretch velvet and has a couple of neckline and sleeve options.
• New from Joost on FreeSewing is the Carlton Coat which is an absolute winner for me and I wish I had a man to make one for! The style is Sherlock Holmes inspired and I love how many measurements the sizing options take into account. Such a well thought out and detailed pattern considering its free!
• Schnittchen released the Marion Coat. This feels like a longer length bomber to me with the little ribbed collar and exposed centre front zip. I love this style and the addition of the rounded hem is a nice touch.
• Megan Nielsen gave us a free Christmas treat in the form of the Acaia Underwear pattern. These are a low rise bikini style which profess to be easy to cut and sew and I've already spotted a few good reports on Instagram. To get the pattern are you need to sign up to her newsletter.
• The 1225 Fast & Fabulous Glamour Poncho was new from Hot Patterns. Rather than just a simple throw on square with neck hole this has a double breasted panel inserted at the neckline with optional stand collar.
• By Hand London released the dreamy Rumana Coat. Its a super classic and timeless style which you'll be wearing for years with tailored princess seams, shoulder darts and a notched collar. The samples are beautiful and I wish I had reason/need for another coat.
• New from Style Arc is the Valentina Dress which is a lovely feminine design with pussy bow neck and high-low ruffled hem. You could have a lot of fun picking fabrics for this one as the pattern includes a slip with the suggestion that you make the dress sheer. The Emery Knit Top with puff sleeves was also new and a freebie for the month.
• Fresh Press Patterns released the Vera Knit Dress. A simple fitted knit dress with a surprise in the hem ruffle at the back. This would be great to dress up or down with different fabrics, the kind you could have multiple of in your wardrobe.
• Last but by no means least is the 271 Sunset Wrap, new from Folkwear. Its a 1940s inspired design for a shoulder wrap and I love their idea of making it up in cashmere for real luxury.

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• I'm really interested in sewing up one of Waffle Patterns' coat patterns as they are all so unique and packed with interesting details. Just launched is a free tutorial and pattern download for an interesting inside pocket with rounded welts which works with any of their coats.
• Pattern Fantastique released free downloadable instructions to combine their Aeolian Tee/Dress and Aura Skirt patterns into a beautiful dress. You can purchase both patterns as a discounted bundle if this style takes your fancy and you don't own them already. 
• Marilla Walker released a downloadable add-on (just 30p!) alongside a post with detailed construction instructions to change her recently released Isca Shirtdress into a shirt. A great way to get the most out of your pattern.
• Seamwork updated the mens Paxson Sweater pattern with an improved fit at the shoulder and neckline (which is exactly where I had problems when I made it!) and added width to the body and sleeves. A great speedy make for a loved one if you're still feeling in the mood for unselfish sewing after Christmas!

Sew-alongs

• A sew-along for the recently released Chestnut Sweater from CocoWawa Crafts is now complete and all the posts to guide you through making your own are up on their blog.

Upcoming!

• I've been easing off on Instagram over the festive season so haven't spotted much in the way of pattern sneak peaks but I did spot a gorgeous sleeve on the soon to be released Harmony Woven Top from Style Arc! Please do feel free to add in anything I may have missed in the comments below as usual.

Other Exciting News

• Emily from In The Folds launched a Kickstarter campaign to get her PDF patterns printed and available to us in paper format. Her goal figure has now been met twice over so I'm looking forward to big things from her in 2018!
• Tilly and the Buttons announced the title of her new book. 'Stretch! Make Yourself Comfortable Sewing Knit Fabrics' will be out early in March 2018.

And thats it from me for 2017. Have a wonderful evening celebrating the joys and successes of this year and welcoming in the new one whatever you may be doing. I can't wait to see what 2018 has in store! I'll leave you as usual with a bit of sewing inspiration to get your January off to a good start.

• Marie didn't seem all that keen on her Aldaia Dress which she made up in incredible pleated velvet but I love it! The fabric choice is perfect and I think the cut of it is lovely.
• I do love a green dress and Bianca's Sew Over It 1940s Wrap Dress is one of the best I've seen of late. Her fabric choice really shows off the lovely collar and waistband details and has made me look twice at the pattern. Beautifully sewn.
• How wonderfully festive does Sarica look in her beautiful red Named Olivia Wrap Dress?! Love the big bow, tulip shape of the skirt and the fit she has achieved.
• It seems I should have made festive dresses the theme of this month's round up as it appears to be all I'm drawn to! Erin's rich green velvet Highlands Wrap Dress is an absolute stunner.
• A slightly different take on the Christmas dress from Helena as she's sewing for the heat of Southern California! The print and weight of the fabric she chose for her Named Inari Dress works so well for the style and this post made me take a second look at her amazing hack of the Lourdes Jacket!

Black Tuxedo Jumpsuit

Merry Christmas guys! This is probably my last post of the year and to celebrate the festive season I thought I'd share with you the party outfit I made a couple of weeks ago. I had a Christmas party and a press night to go to and despite having a fair few handmade party outfits in my wardrobe by now I couldn't resist the excuse to make something new! My berry Ailakki Jumpsuit is my absolute go to garment for parties. Its incredibly comfortable, feels stylish and unique and I love the fact that it is trousers rather than a dress. I've worn it around most people I know and have worked with now though and as its quite a statement piece felt like I could do with another of its kind in my arsenal. Then I came across this Gina Bacconi shoulderless jumpsuit and fell a little bit in love with the cut of it and the fact that it feels like a feminine tux with the combo of matte and satin black. At £290 its a little out of my price range so what was I to do but recreate it!

At around the same time the Cloth House contacted me to see if I would like a gift voucher to spend in their recently reopened Camden Warehouse Shop. If you haven't been for a visit yet its well worth the trip. Open only on Fridays the reasonably small shop is packed with their out of season/last season fabrics at drastically reduced prices. Some for as little as £2/m! Armed with a list of projects I had in mind I hot-footed it up there one Friday afternoon and came across an ideal piece of wool suiting with a bit of stretch and a lovely weighty black satin which was a good match for the black. I can't remember off the top of my head how much either was but I know less than £10/m. I had a large chunk left over of my 2m of suiting but squeezed the collar, waistband and pocket bags out of half a metre of the satin. I love how the satin feels when I put my hands inside the pockets.

So to recreate the RTW jumpsuit I used a couple of patterns I knew worked for me plus a bit of drafting/making it up as I went along! At first I was thinking of using the trousers from the By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit as they fit really nicely around the waist and hips but ultimately decided the wide leg combined with the style of the bodice might not feel very me. I feel really happy in the pegged leg style of the Ailakki and the proportions of those trousers work well as part of a jumpsuit so I stuck with what I knew I loved. I made up the size 38 again and took 2" off length of trousers so they hit just above the ankle which seems to be most flattering. This was just taken off the hem. They do seem to fit slightly differently in this fabric as its quite a lot lighter than the triple crepe so hangs differently. I think I probably prefer the fit in the crepe as I get less wrinkles but they certainly feel very chic in suiting!

I needed a simple, sleeveless princess seamed bodice so returned to my favourite fit in the form of the Rosie Dress from Sew Over It. I cut between the size 8 and 10 with a small amount shaved off the top of the side seams for a closer fit as I did with my green party dress. This dress stays up so well without the aid of straps that I knew it would be a great choice for this shoulderless design. This version actually stays up even better and is incredibly comfortable for a strapless outfit due to the stretch in the fabric. Its snug but moves with you. I opted to self line the bodice to retain the stretch as I had plenty of fabric and am really glad I did.

The collar took a little bit of thinking through. I did at one point think I might fold in half and sew a long strip right sides together, turn it through then hand stitch it to the top of the bodice. But I decided I'd rather machine sew it where I could. To enable this I sewed the long strip wrong sides together and finished that long edge on the overlocker. Then I sandwiched the centre of the overlocked edge between the shell and lining along the front edge. I turned down and hand-stitched the overlocked edge by the width of the seam allowance along the rest of the length. This was easy to do invisibly because of the double layer of satin. I originally left the strip nice and long so I could play around with making the collar the right length; the sleeves needed to be snug enough to stay up without being so tight they restricted too much movement. It was a bit tricky but I pinned them in place on myself in the mirror. Once trimmed to the right length I finished the ends of the collar by overlocking, turning under and hand-stitching again. Then I simply slip-stitched the collar to the back neckline by hand. I'm really pleased with the finish and its nice and strong. I had to tack the end corners by the zip down by hand so that it laid nice and flat against my back when worn.

The RTW inspiration jumpsuit doesn't have a waistband but the Ailakki pattern does include a slim one which I decided to incorporate as it gave me the opportunity to use more of the contrast satin. I think I probably could have done with shaving a smidgen of length off the bodice pieces to accommodate this as the trousers sit slightly lower on me than my berry version but its certainly not noticeable as the Rosie waistline is pretty high. The decision to add a waistband actually worked in my favour as I didn't have to faff around making sure the seams of the bodice lined up with the seams and darts in the trousers...I could have still done it but was short on time and not overly bothered about it. Matching the waistband along the zip at the back was essential though as the contrast of the satin would really show that up!

As usual despite having a plan to make this for ages and having the pieces all cut out and ready to go I ended up with about a day to sew it up before one of the parties! I tried really hard not to rush myself though and am really proud of the finish I achieved. Of course I decided to make my life more difficult and add the boning in too! I use a plastic boning which comes in a fabric casing that I bought in bulk from Mood a couple of years ago and is surprisingly quick and easy to install. You simply cut pieces the length of each seam you want to sew them behind, then push back the casing to trim away a little over the width of your seam allowance from each end. I use a lighter to then melt the ends slightly so you can round them off and loose any sharp corners which might work their way through your fashion fabric. You can then sew right through each side of the casing to secure the bones to the lining. I might do a quick little tutorial with photos to explain it better if anyone is interested?

The fabrics were really lovely to work as they both responded so well to a good press. I used a size 80 microtex needle for both and washed them on a gentle 30 degree cycle in the machine. The only thing that proved tricky with the satin was cutting as it wanted to shift off grain but the slight crinkly nature of it made that a little easier as it has some grip. I interfaced the external waistband piece with a lightweight fusible but not the collar as I liked the body and weight of the satin it as it was. I also wanted to retain any natural give in the fabric to enable me to move around a little easier. I had a few people ask me if the satin was stretchy...it doesn't really have any stretch and I can't lift my arms above the shoulder without things going a bit awry but thats totally fine for a party.

The most trouble I had with the fabrics was dealing with the stretch of the suiting when it came to inserting the zip! I have often found inserting zips into stretch fabric tricky and I think what I should have done was fuse a strip of interfacing along the seam allowance to prevent it stretching out as I sewed. I had no trouble with the regular seams but the zip was a bit of a disaster and still isn't perfect. I got the top of the bodice and the waistband seams lined up first attempt but I had a weird rippling effect below the waistband. I didn't want to unpick the bodice when I'd got it aligned so well so just unpicked the bottom half and redid it, really trying not to stretch it out as I went. I shortened the zip as much as I could get away with which helped and then it took a couple of do-overs before I felt it was wearable.

The only other issue I had is the pockets which don't seem to sit as well as my first Ailakki (although can I get a high five for pockets in party-wear?!). I think this is to do with the fact that I under stitched along both the front and back openings so because of the way the trousers are constructed the rear piece wants to pull towards the back. The pocket construction of the Ailakki I actually find a little strange and did it my own way this time which is the way I've always done side seam pockets; sew the pocket bags to each leg then sew up the side seams and around the pocket bags. Despite these little issues I'm absolutely delighted with the jumpsuit and can see it getting a lot of wear. Its already had two outings and I felt so comfortable and happy in it all night. Friends who know I sew most of my clothes still couldn't believe I'd made it and though it looked like it could be part of a Reiss or French Connection collection. I feel really proud of being able to reconstruct something I'd seen and loved without there being one pattern to use and follow. Isn't it great to be able to tweak things so they suit you better?!

I think thats about enough wittering on about construction and fabrics from me, I'll leave you all to enjoy the festive season. I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas surrounded by the people you love and get some well deserved rest (and perhaps a little sewing time?!) in. Thank you all for your comments, support and encouragement of this little blog and my sewing over the last year. It really does spur me on to make each project a little better and to try new and more complicated things. Wishing you a very happy and creative 2018!

Honeycomb Merino Stoff & Stil Sports Jacket

This is a project that has been incredibly useful since I finished it a couple of weeks ago. Its been very chilly for morning runs in London! I've actually sewn a fair amount of my own activewear now but only blogged one Dunbar Top and Pacific Leggings combo as they work so well for me that basically everything has been a repeat of that.. The leggings in these pictures are my favourite pair of Sewaholic Pacific Leggings. They're sewn up in some amazing wicking fabric I got at Stonemountain & Daughter when I was in San Francisco a couple of years ago. Its nicely thick and stable and has an amazing matte, soft finish which is lovely to wear. It has fantastic recovery and these are still going strong after a couple of years of washing and wearing. In the longer length these are perfect for winter running. I've been wishing I'd bought more of the fabric at the time but I've actually just had a quick browse of their website and I can't be sure without seeing it in person but there's a chance it might be this Yoga Cloth which comes in grey, black, white and navy. It might actually be worth the international shipping to get my paws on more of it. How exciting!

Anyway, I digress from the garment this post is actually about! But actually talking about finding great activewear fabrics is very relevant to this project as the fabric is the reason this came about. Most of the sportswear appropriate fabrics I come across are shiny spandex type knits which aren't really what I like to run in and this has certainly held me back from sewing more sports clothing. Then I came across a couple of listings in the merino section of The Fabric Store website which made my eyes nearly pop out of my head; Merino activewear fabrics! I ordered this way back in the spring so unfortunately they aren't available anymore but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they'll get some more back in, at which point I'll be ordering a generous length of everything! This one in particular was listed as merino/polypropylene honeycomb jacquard. I'm assuming the blend of merino with a synthetic fibre is what makes it suitable for sportswear. It has a beautiful honeycomb design in the weave on the right side and the reverse has a slightly fluffy, fleece-like texture. Its so great to find an activewear fabric with a bit of interest to it rather than a plain solid.

Of course when it arrived I was so delighted to come across a fabric so unusual I didn't dare cut into it for about five months as I didn't want to waste it on the wrong project! I was originally thinking of making myself another pair of Pacific Leggings as I know they work and would get a lot of wear. But for some reason the fluffy back was reminding me of a running jacket I had and then I remembered I had a pattern for just that lurking in my stash which I picked up on my trip to Stoff & Stil in Denmark in January. Its pattern 25015 for a sports jacket and tights. The sample I saw was made up in more of a lightweight waterproof fabric with a crisp hand (and amazing reflective flecks in the design for night running!) but I had a feeling the design would work well in a softer fabric and luckily I was right.

The Stoff & Stil patterns are available in individual sizes and I had the small which has turned out a little roomier than I expected but I quite like it. I think the pattern is probably true to size, its just that the running jackets I already own have a closer fit to the body. I wouldn't have chosen a jacket with this relaxed fit in the shops but its actually proving great to run in and my favourite thing to wear running in the summer is a big baggy t-shirt so it shouldn't be a surprise to me! The only change I made was to cut smaller lengths of elastic for the cuffs than recommended as I have very slim wrists and hands and wanted a tight fit. I was apprehensive about the elasticated hem line as I had visions of it riding up and becoming very irritating while I ran. But the recommended length of elastic turns out to be spot on and it sits very comfortably around the hips.

I'm not going to lie, at points this was a very frustrating project due to the limited and somewhat confusing instructions. The steps are listed as brief bullet points and there are only two diagrams to go with them. To make matters even more confusing the pattern pieces have no markings apart from sparse notches like an old vintage one and the instructions are originally written in Danish and at some points I think much is lost in translation! I didn't have a problem with them when I made my Breton sweater as that was a much more straightforward garment to construct. I think I might have to stick with simpler Stoff & Stil designs from now on but I will give another pattern a go as the design and drafting is great and I'm really impressed with the RTW feel of the finished garment. Plus the fabric pattern pieces are lovely to work with!

I did have to work on this in stages and put it aside for a while when I got to a particularly frustrating point. The fact that this was my first garment of this type made me even more apprehensive as I couldn't just fall back on my tried and tested construction methods. But the lovely fabric helped me to persist! Despite the problematic instructions I did really enjoy the project in a weird way because it was a challenge and put my sewing skills and knowledge to the test. My favourite part of the design and the part I'm most proud of figuring out and getting such a clean finish on are the angled zip pockets. These are so useful and the perfect size for phone & keys. I love that you see more of the fabric inside the pocket and I can't quite believe how neat I managed to get the ends! Luckily this knit is quite stable so putting in all of the zips was pretty straightforward.

I sewed it up as I do with pretty much all knit fabrics, using a narrow zig zag on my regular machine for accuracy and finishing everything on the overlocker. The instructions just tell you as the first step to 'overlock all parts as sewing is progressing' so I thought through quite carefully when to finish my seams and did some before construction as they were quite hard to get at when assembled. I'm very pleased with the professional looking finish of the insides. I'd usually wash my merino on a delicate 30 degree cycle in the machine but this has been going in on a regular 40 degree wash as I feel like sportswear should have a good wash and its coming out fine. When constructing I'd usually use a medium heat on the iron to give merino a good press but I quickly realised the poly content of this meant I had to make do with cool.

The instructions do include instructions to add reflective piping to some of the key seams which I think is an amazing idea but I skipped that for this garment along with some of the topstitching as that seemed slightly unnecessary in a knit. Talking about extra supplies you might need the list on the back of the envelope isn't hugely helpful. It doesn't tell you how much elastic you'll need (just the width) and although the invisible zips for the pockets are included it doesn't say that you'll need a separating zip for the centre front! I waited until I got to that point in the instructions before buying mine so I could measure exactly how long it needed to be. Of course it came up at an awkward, impossible to get hold of odd number but I went with slightly shorter (24") and set it slightly higher than the hem and slightly lower than the top of the neck. I decided this was better than a stretched out centre front with a longer zip.

I've run in it a handful of times already and I forget that I've even got it on and get lost in the run so I'm counting that as a big success! The fabric in particular makes this very comfortable as it keeps me cosy at the start but regulates temperature well throughout as the wool makes it breathable. I get very warm and sticky when I run so I don't want anything that makes me feel extra sweaty! The collar does collapse a little in this knit so perhaps I should have used a slightly sturdy interfacing in this area but its fine for my purposes and its a good height and width as the zip doesn't irritate my neck. The only thing I do miss that my other running jackets have and I didn't think about beforehand are thumbholes. The jacket sits comfortably around the wrists thanks to the elasticated cuffs but I actually really like a bit of hand coverage so have been running with my hands tucked right inside! Lucky those sleeves are nice and roomy.

Making this has really fired me up to try some more challenging sportswear designs. Can't wait to see Melissa from Fehr Trade's book released early next year and I think her Surf to Summit Top or Tessellate Tee would be good patterns for me to try next. Those sleeve mitts on the Surf to Summit I've only just spotted and are particularly appealing to me as my hands get incredibly cold and sore on a long winter run! Genius.

Grey Stretch Denim McCalls 7547 Dungarees

I never thought dungarees would be a big hit in my wardrobe and even whilst making my teal linen Turias I was doubting whether I could pull them off or if I would just end up looking like an oversized toddler. However, I wore that pair at least once a week over the summer, got compliments on them every time and still have a couple of people constantly hounding me to make them a pair! I wore them as long as I could through Autumn but had to concede defeat to the plummeting temperatures about a month ago and have been really missing them as an outfit option ever since. A warmer pair was definitely needed!

I actually had plans to make a denim version before I even thought about the linen pair. I bought the McCalls 7547 pattern at the Knitting & Stitching Show at Olympia way back in the spring. I'd been looking enviously at women rocking dungarees around London and totally fell for the grown up styling and slightly seventies vibe of the flared version pictured on the pattern envelope. Finally some dungarees I could get on board with! I bought the fabric there and then at the show and was super excited to get sewing but then of course work got in the way, summer arrived and dressing head to toe in layers and denim was the last thing on my mind so all the supplies sat under my sewing table waiting patiently until about a month ago. I'm now kicking myself for not making them sooner as I LOVE them!

I definitely wanted to use something with the weight and strength of a denim but wanted to keep them fairly fitted and feminine rather than heavy, oversized and retro! I thought I'd have a hard time picking a fabric but it practically chose me as I walked around the show with pattern in hand. Higgs & Higgs had a beautiful selection of soft, yet weighty stretch denims on their stall in a mixture of classic tones and more unusual muted colours. Lucky for you guys they still have them available on their website and at the very reasonable price of £11.99/m! The grey was the obvious dungaree choice for me but I'm also very taken with mink and old rose. It has washed and sewn beautifully and the stretch makes it super comfortable to wear. As there is a generous amount of stretch I probably could have done with getting my walking foot out, particularly when attaching the pockets as things got ever so slightly stretched out of shape as it moved through the machine. However, I find it much easier to topstitch with the clear regular machine foot (I think it might be called the embroidery foot?!) as I line certain ridges/edges of the foot up with the seam line as an easy way of keeping the topstitching even. The walking foot makes it harder to see this clearly so I think the stretching is a sacrifice I'm willing to make for that!

One of the things delaying me from getting stuck in with these was the fact that I think they need a fairly good fit to look half as chic as the sample. I'm still very hesitant about fitting trousers and in fact I've had making a pair of Sew Over it Ultimate Trousers and working through their online trouser fitting course on my sewing queue for about as long as the dungarees! Perhaps becoming more confident about fitting should me my sewing resolution for the new year. I decided to cut a muslin of the trousers down to just above the knee out of the stretch denim I had left over from my Mia Jeans. This Higgs & Higgs denim would probably make a great pair of Mias come to think of it. I'm usually reluctant to do a muslin as my sewing time is so limited and precious but decided it was definitely worth it for these as I so wanted them to be a success. Even if the muslin just proved that they were fine out of the envelope the time taken would be worth it to ease my apprehension!

Usually for big 4 patterns I cut a size or two down but the more recent McCalls releases seem to fit me a lot better so I followed my lead from making the McCalls 6696 shirtdress and cut the straight size 12. My measurements actually put me between the size 12 and 14 but the 12 was definitely the right choice. Out of the envelope the fit wasn't bad but I did make a couple of tiny tweaks. I had a bit of excess fabric around the crotch so by pinching and pinning the excess fabric out along seams until it looked better I established that I needed to skim 4/8" off the front inside leg seam at the top. I was really proud of myself for being able to figure this out! It seems despite not making and fitting many trousers I feel like I do have a much better understanding of trouser fitting and where to make adjustments from reading so many blog posts. I find them fascinating! Particularly useful is Heather Lou's Ginger Jeans sew-along so I'm really excited to dive into her pants fitting basics download which she created alongside the new Sasha Pants pattern.

I probably would have spent a bit more time tweaking the fit around the crotch and bum if I was making slim fitting jeans but as dungarees have a more relaxed vibe I decided the resulting fit would do me just fine! The stretch in the denim is pretty forgiving anyway. The only other adjustments I made were to take a little length off the hem and to adjust the rear pockets. I've never been entirely happy with the placement of these pockets on my Ginger Jeans (I think they are a bit large and low for the shape of my bum) so made sure to check these in the muslin and found I had similar problems. The long length of these was quite unflattering so I took 3/4" off the bottom edge and checked the placement against the pockets on my Mia Jeans as these I love those.

I had a hard time deciding what leg style to cut and in the end resorted to an Instagram poll! It was a tightly run race but in the end the skinny leg won and I think it was definitely the right choice as that leg is much more wearable and practical for my day to day life. I have fairly short legs and definitely think I need a heel to pull off a flared leg! Having said that, the glamorous allure of the flare is too much to resist and its more than likely that I'll be making a pair of those too now I've figured out the fit. Oh and although McCalls describe it as a skinny leg I'd definitely call it more of a slim or slightly tapered cut. I actually much prefer this to a proper full on skinny.

Long time readers of this blog will probably remember that I'm a big fan of a bit of topstitching, so you can imagine how satisfying these were for me to make! I considered using a contrasting topstitching thread but then decided what I liked about the grey denim was the understated vibe, giving the completed dungarees more of a fashion feel than a practical heavy duty pair. So I used the standard grey thread I was using to sew them up and love how it looks. the grey is slightly paler so it shows up nicely up close without overwhelming the garment. The topstitching is the one thing I found a little strange about the instructions actually. You're asked to do a fair bit of topstitching around the pockets and edges of the bib but then topstitching is left out in other areas where I would expect it. I added in a row of stitching along the inside leg seam and also along the straps but think I could have done with adding in a bit more. I think it would look great along the waistband.

As well as the satisfaction of topstitching I had an excuse to wield a hammer to set in those bib buttons and the snap on the side of the waist. A button is called for in the pattern instructions rather than a snap but I didn't have any metal buttons and thought a snap would suit this utility style garment. I always make some kind of mistake with each garment I make and this fastening is it on these! I managed to attach the waistband the wrong way round so the extra flap on the end of the waistband is at the front and sits on top of the back waistband to fasten when in fact it should come from the back and slot under the front. Ah well, it doesn't look wrong! There are quite a few markings to transfer on to the waistband and I got muddled. In future I think I'll use different colours of tailors tacks to indicate different marks!

I think this may well be only my second or third time doing a lapped zip (my addiction to invisible zips may explain how that's possible when I've sewn as many things as I have!) so despite having to unpick portions of it a couple of times I'm pretty pleased with how neatly that has turned out. I used a regular dress zip from my stash but if I made these again I quite like the idea of using a proper metal jeans zip and now I understand the construction I might play around with making it an exposed one.

I'm really pleased with the finishing of the bib; I particularly love the little triangular facing on the back! A lovely little classic utility detail. Inside the trousers I overlocked where possible but followed the instructions to trim down the centre portion of the crotch seam so this edge is left raw which I find a little annoying. I think if making these again I wouldn't trim down this area and I'd overlock the raw edges of all the pattern pieces before starting to make it a little easier. When deciding on the length of the straps I opted for nice and snug as the one thing that drives me a little bit crazy about my Cleo Dress is the straps shifting about and the bib feeling loose and floppy. However, after a couple of wears I think I could do with lengthening them just a fraction as I think the waist and crotch could do with sitting a tiny bit lower.

I've worn these a few times already and they've seen me nicely through a tough week at work but I'm still undecided on the best footwear to go with them for winter. None of my boots look quite right and I've tried sparkly socks to combat the chilly ankles I get with trainers but I'm not sure I'm a glitter sock type of woman. Any advice on boots which would look good with this leg shape?! I'm determined to find something I love as the dungarees suit my lifestyle so well. They work with multiple tops in my wardrobe so I can have a lot of fun with styling. Plus they are so so great for my work with all the pockets and practicality for running about town and crawling around in fittings. Comfort is the name of the game for my professional wardrobe and the stretch in the denim of these is an added bonus in this department!

Has the irresistible urge to sew something ever pushed you out of your style comfort zone? Was it a big success as with me and this dungarees, or a wardrobe disaster?!