April Indie Pattern Update!

Does anyone else feel a little bit overwhelmed by their sewing queue at the moment? I think it happens with this change of season every year as there are so many things I want to sew for the warmer weather. No that there is any sign of that here in London this morning! The influx of beautiful new pattern releases this month sure hasn't helped. There's a lot to look through as many indie companies launched whole new collections! I'm wishing someone could give me an extra week in my life and put everything else on pause so I can just sew all the lovely new things!

New Pattern Companies!

• There was a new digital sewing magazine launched this month and along with it a new pattern! Smyly Magazine has been created by Athina and Hattie after the success of the 'Sewing Makes You Love Yourself' challenge earlier this year and the first issue focuses on women who have turned their passion for sewing into a career. Each issue will include a downloadable pattern and the first is the Samantha Dress which is a faux wrap style. 

New Patterns

• The two new patterns released with the April edition of Seamwork Magazine by Colette were the Natalie Blouse and Jenna Skirt. Both great wardrobe basics, my favourite is the boxy fit and notched collar of the classic blouse.
• DG Patterns released the Marla Jumpsuit, Top & Dress which is a semi fitted style with lovely pleated bodice detail with v-neckline and dolman sleeves.
• I love the new Ariana Woven Dress from Style Arc. It has everything I'm after in a feminine strappy summer dress with a flattering classic fitted bodice and full midi skirt. The addition of shirring at the back of the bodice for a comfortable close fit plus pockets on the skirt make this a real winner in my book. I also really like the tie detail on the sleeves of the new Miley Woven Top which was one of their freebies with any purchase in April. They also released the Meghan Jacket which would be perfect made up in a ponte knit. The design features a waterfall front and ties on the cuffs.
• The new free downloadable releases from Mood Sewciety this month included the Lotus Leggings, Morina Jumpsuit (super glamorous secret pyjamas!) and Lilium Pant. I love how the details of a classic button up shirt are exaggerated in the design of the Melia Blouse and now we've had a brief spell of summer weather in London the new Magnolia and Nyssa Dresses are catching my eye.
• Hey June Handmade released the Amalfi Dress, the carefree style of which would indeed be perfect for wafting around the Amalfi coast on a hot summer's day! It has flutter or gathered short sleeves combined with a relaxed fit and elasticated waist. 
• Ohhh Lulu released a free pattern for the Hyacinth Bralette. Constructed from just two small pieces and the perfect simple style to jazz up with a bit of trim this design could be a great stash buster for any knit scraps. Could this finally be the thing that tempts me to dip my toe into the world of sewing lingerie?!
• One of my favourite releases of the month (and one which I'll probably own by the time you read this, I have no will power!) is the Vernazza Two Piece Swimsuit from Friday Pattern Company. I love the style of the top with tie front and the high rise bottoms really appeal to me right now.
• The Sew Over It PDF pattern release of the month is the Emmeline Skirt. I love this style for spring and summer and think it would be great in a variety of fabrics. The full, high-waisted style features box pleats, a button front and big bow belt.
• New from Designer Stitch is the Kate Vintage Tea Dress. A classic, flattering fit-and-flare style with vintage inspired bodice and circular skirt. The pattern also includes a variety of cup sizes for easy fitting. 
• Love Notions released the Harmony Blouse. An effortlessly stylish design which would be best sewn up in a beautiful silk or viscose woven. The pattern includes four sleeve styles and a keyhole feature at the back of the neckline.
• Ann Normandy launched a new PDF Pant Pattern. I love that the on trend flared leg of these is created by long godets inserted in the side seam. The design also features a high waist with side zip fastening and a deep welt pocket on the hip.
• The Spring/Summer collection from Republique du Chiffon has arrived! It consists of six patterns in the form of the Yolanda Dress, Yvonne Playsuit, Jacqueline Jacket, Petula Shirt, Jeanne Blouse and Prune Dress. My favourite has surprised me as its not my usual style but I think I'd get a lot of wear out of Petula; I love the volume and that gathered back yoke.
• SBCC Patterns have been working on perfecting their latest pattern for the last two years! The Rickey Jacket is a classic blazer with either a notched or contemporary shawl collar and the proportions of the pattern are designed to suit petite ladies.
• The Billie Jacket is new from PM Patterns. It has a shoulder yoke and princess seamed cut for a slim fit and can be made in a classic single breasted style or double breasted for a moto look.
• Dessine Moi Un Patron released a new collection of three patterns. The scallop detail at the armhole and across the back of the Bloom button up Dress and Blouse is lovely and I like it as a tie front top. Cherry is a relaxed blouson jacket packed with details and Leaf is a chic dress or top that wraps or buttons at the back.
• Wardrobe by Me launched two new shirt patterns; one for women and one for men! The Jensen Mens Shirt is a classic with button front, tower plackets, stand and optional collar as well as the option to make with short or long sleeves. The Anna Shirt is very similar in style with the same variations but has slits at the cuffs on the long sleeves and is cut for female proportions.
• The fifth pattern from Afternoon is the Cosmos Bralette which they have created in collaboration with Create Hobby to celebrate the opening of their Cape Town store. The ideal beginner lingerie pattern.
• Muse is the new summer collection of patterns from Louis Antoinette, which are all available in both paper and their newly launched PDF format! I love the draped front of the Betty Dress, the waist tie of the Amanda Skirt but am most drawn to the asymmetrical style of the Elvire Top.
• Also with a new collection out is Laela Jeyne Patterns. La Femme Collection consists of four designs; the Cosette Blouse, Léa Swimsuit and the Josephine and Victoire Dresses. I particularly like the criss cross back and plunging front of the Léa which uniquely can be filled in with lace.
• New from Street Style Patterns is the 026 Bodysuit. Ideal for wearing with denim, this close fitting style can be made with short or long sleeves and has elasticated leg openings and snap fastenings.
• Rochad Studio are offering the new Madeline Cardi pattern for free to their newsletter subscribers! It is a great beginner cardigan pattern that would work in a variety of drapey knits with a waterfall front and longer lower hip length.
• The Robinson Trousers are new from Ensemble Patterns and give you two patterns in one! With six different hem variations and patterns for both stretch and woven fabrics included you'll get a very different result each time. 
• Rosy Peña Patterns released their first collection which consists of six designs that work beautifully together. The Carolina Jumpsuit is a stunner but I'm most drawn to the Bella Wrap Top; I can't resist a bell sleeve! Also included are the Luisa Trousers, Sophia Flares, Ana Top and Mila Bag. 
• Nikki from Beauté J'Adore released her second pattern download for women which is a gorgeous fashion forward Gathered Tunic design. It has a boat neck, gathered waist and high slit. I love it worn over jeans.
• Closet Case Patterns released a free pattern download to sew your own sewing machine cover! My machine has a hard cover but I was excited to see that the download also includes a pattern for a serger/coverstitch machine. Definitely going to be making one of those to jazz up my sewing space and keep the dust off.
• The Giverny Dress is the latest pattern from Itch to Stitch and wow is it a beauty! There are many elegant features to this which balance each other perfectly including a pin tucked bodice with slit neckline, wide curved waistband with optional sash and the choice of short or 3/4 length pleated cuffed sleeves.
• Megan Nielsen released two new patterns this month, one of which is an absolute cracker of a jeans pattern! The Ash Jeans include four different leg styles and I love the proportions and classic style of that back yoke and pockets. The River Dress & Top is a reversible raglan style which can be sewn in knits of wovens and has optional side seam pockets and sash belt. A really versatile wardrobe staple.
• New from Schnittchen is the Holly Jacket which is accompanied by a video sewing tutorial. Its a cropped college style jacket with ribbed hem, cuffs and neckline and also includes the option to sew with a pointed collar. I'm particularly love with the striped ribbing they've used on the teal sample, so retro! They also released the FREE Margo Skirt which can be made with or without flounces. I like how the asymmetrical ruffle continues up the centre seam!
• The Maya Linen Pants are new from Designer Stitch and free when you sign up to their newsletter! Just in time for the approaching summer these have a relaxed wide leg with rear patch pockets and a knit yoga waistband for maximum comfort!
• The last pattern company this month with a new Spring/Summer collection release is Anne Kerdilès Couture. The collection consists of three patterns; the Andria Dress, Côme Trousers and Syracuse Blouse. A few of you were after my recommendations for tapered trousers with a pleated waist when I posted my tartan ones a couple of weeks ago; the Côme Trousers could be a great choice.
• Wear Lemonade have released the Andy Dungarees which are more of a classic workwear style than their Fionas. The design features a low back, straight legs and five roomy topstitched pockets. Who needs a handbag when dungarees are in fashion hey?!
• Jily is the most recent release from Ready To Sew and is a beauty of a little boxy slightly cropped top for summer. I love the view with the tie at the centre front hem!

Pattern updates and expansions

• Grainline Studio launched the Scout Sleeve Variation Pack to accompany one of their first and still very popular patterns, the Scout Tee. The four new sleeve styles included (cuffed sleeve, petal sleeve, short and long sleeves) mean you can really get the most out of your pattern.
• As the full bicep pattern option for the recently released Montrose Top was so successful Cashmerette have just released a free downloadable full bicep sleeve pattern piece for their Harrison Shirt. Their patterns really are taking all the work out of pattern alterations for you!
• OhhhLulu released a downloadable expansion pack for the Hyacinth Bralette pattern. A total bargain for all the variety that is included! Th pack enables you to customise your bralette with lace overlays, back variations including a keyhole cut out and strapping and instructions on how to finish with fold over elastic.

Sew-alongs

• The sew-along for Cashmerette's most recent pattern, the Montrose Top, has begun over on their blog. The posts include sewing up three different versions of the top using very different fabrics with tips and tricks along the way.
• Indie Sew are running a sew-along for the Moto Sweatshirt recently released by Seamly. Its just finished up over on the Indie Sew blog so all the posts are there if you need tips with a particular stage. 
• The ladies behind Smyly Magazine will be posting a sew-along for their first pattern, the Samantha Dress on their blog. There will be a video tutorial for version 1 and a step-by-step how-to post for version 2.
• Grainline Studio are running a Make-Along in collaboration with Madder to go with their newly released Uniform - Knit & Sew book and e-book. Posts on the Grainline blog will be packed with advice and guidance for sewing up the tunic pattern. For all the knitting tips for the accompanying cardigan design check out the posts on the Making blog.
• There is a sew-along currently running on the Wardrobe By Me blog for their recently released Jensen and Anna Shirt patterns. If you've been hesitant to tackle menswear or tower plackets this could be a great excuse!
• Sew News have been running a sew-along for the Emerson Crop Pants and Shorts from True Bias. It has been a three part series with super clear step by step photos to follow.

Upcoming!

• Coming next from Fresh Press Patterns is the Leon Spring Coat. The weather in London can't seem to make up it's mind at the moment so a spring weight coat might be just what I need! They also shared a peep on Instagram at the James Pants which are designed for knit fabrics.
• I'm very excited to see what the next Closet Case Patterns design will be. They were shooting the samples a couple of weeks ago so the release must be imminent! 
• Gertie is working on the next patterns for her fairly new Charm Patterns line. From sneaky peeks on Instagram one looks to be a gorgeous 1950s inspired dress with square collar. 
• Sew Liberated are currently testing their next pattern; the Gypsum Skirt. Its going to feature two variations and deep pockets!
• It looks like the next pattern from Victory Patterns will be some form of trench coat. They are busy sewing up samples for the Ulysses Trench right now!
• Thread Theory are about to start testing their next pattern, which they describe as a quick wardrobe staple. 
• Decades of Style have a new pattern coming out on 2nd May which will be part of their Decades Everyday range. The pattern will be the first in their newly expanded size range of 32"-52" bust.
• The sneaky peak of the new Pippi Pinafore from Jennifer Lauren Handmade promises side button fastening and lots of yummy topstitching! Looking forward to the release of this later in the week.
• The next design from Ensemble Patterns will be the Perkins Shirt. They gave us a sneak peak on Instagram of a lovely keyhole and tie detail at the back of a classic collar.

Other Exciting News

• The No.12 Aalborg Dress & Blouse from How To Do Fashion is now available in paper format. This is a gorgeous 1970s inspired wrap style and the blouse variation also lends itself beautifully to 1950s styling.
• The Avid Seamstress re-launched their City Trousers pattern. They are a classic cigarette style with a narrow waistband and invisible zip at the rear. With side seam pockets and the option to add hem slits these are a true versatile classic. 
• Sew Over It launched a new online course this month; Intro to Sewing Shirts. I think this is a great subject for a course as there are so many aspects to sewing a shirt which can be challenging without further explanation when you make your first one. The course includes two patterns; the Ultimate Shirt for ladies and the Hackney Shirt for men. Sew Over It's very first menswear pattern!

As always fell free to add any releases or news I've missed in the comments below and I'll endeavour to get the post updated as soon as possible! Here's your dose of indie sewing inspiration to get you motivated to sew your way through May!

• I can't get enough of the trousers Novita has been making recently and my latest obsession are these denim Persephone Pants. I was planning to make some Lander Pants for spring but am now torn between the two patterns! 
• Emanuelle made a beautiful version of the Iris Top from Fresh Press Patterns. I love the fabric that she chose and those overlapping side seams finished with bias binding are a beautiful feature. 
• I adore this longline Sophie Bikini that Holli made and posted on the Imagine Gnats blog, Isn't that rope print swim fabric the perfect nod to nautical without being too novelty?! It makes me want to book a sunshine break immediately so I can make my own.
• Sian from Kittenish Behaviour made an incredible pair of Beach Pyjamas. The fabric she chose is also from Til The Sun Goes Down who have the most amazing vintage inspired prints which pair so well with this mid century design. 
• I adore this hack of the Winslow Culottes from Helen, particularly in my favourite shade of berry red. A pair has immediately been added to my sewing queue...in fact I may have even hunted down the fabric already! 

Brushed Cotton Berlin Skirt

After the surprise success of the trousers I shared last week I've now got a project to show you which hasn't quite lived up to the high expectations I had for it. I can't quite put my finger on what my problem with this skirt is...the fabric, the pattern, the fit. I think probably a combination of all three just being a little off. Its not a complete disaster and I've still been getting some wear out of it but I was hoping for my new favourite skirt and a wardrobe hero and didn't get it. I've got plans to tackle this pattern again though, I haven't given up on the dream and have learnt a lot from making this one.

The pattern is the Berlin Skirt from French pattern company Orageuse which I have had my eye on for some time and was actually one of my choices for the #2018makenine challenge on Instagram. A lot of the Orageuse designs appeal to me as they strike a good balance between stylish, contemporary and wearable and include some unique features. It is the first pattern I have used from this company and whilst I was impressed with the drafting and the complexity of the pattern I found myself a bit adrift with the instructions. You know sometimes when you try a new pattern company the instructions feel fairly instinctive to follow and other times they feel a bit unfamiliar and the construction doesn't seem to flow as smoothly; it was definitely the latter experience for me. I think this is often down to personal preference and their methods don't gel with my usual construction techniques. Its good to push yourself out of your comfort zone once in a while!

The fabric is one of the purchases I made in Paris and is an exquisite brushed cotton from Sacrés Coupons which was my favourite shop. Its almost like a fine moleskin but a little crispier and I imagine is a bolt end from a designer line as is most of the fabric in that particular store. I thought the crisp hand would be great to show off the 'paper-bag' shape of this skirt and really make the most of those feature pockets but after making it I think something softer with more drape would be better suited. This is a little too pokey so the skirt doesn't hang well when I start moving around. In particular the pleats open up when I walk and then stay poking out rather than folding back in on themselves which is frustrating. The nap of the exterior of the fabric also catches against itself a bit so nothing wants to fall into a natural place. It also picks up fluff like crazy! Not so great when you work in costume...I go home covered in thread! I had a 3 metre coupon and still have well over half left so perhaps I can find a project better suited to it for the rest.

One really great thing about the fabric is that it presses beautifully. That's really essential in a fabric choice for this design as you want crisp pleats and crisp edges on those pockets and the centre front split. Its all about sharp corners! I took the advice of a commenter on my post about the Sirius Sweater and tried heat-setting in my pleats with a spritz of vinegar and water mix before pressing. This certainly improved the crispness of my pleats and they are holding up well but still don't fare so well in the wash. Thanks very much to whoever provided me with that great tip!

I cut the size 38 at the waist and graded out to a 40 at the lower hip as I wanted it nice and snug at the waist and slim but not clingy around the bum. I'm fairly happy with the fit and although I had been considering sizing up next time for a more relaxed summer look I think I'll stick with this as I wouldn't want it to keep shifting about. It sits beautiful around the waist and high hip at the moment which is mainly due to the curved waistband, what a dream those things are! Definitely my favourite part of this pattern.

Looking at the pictures I'm thinking that part of my dissatisfaction with the finished article may be to do with the style not suiting my petite proportions. Midi lengths can be really tricky to pull off and I'm not quite sure I've got the balance of this one right. I took 9cm off the length and am pretty happy with where the hem hits but next time I will take this out from higher up the skirt, possibly in two parts which will mean redrawing the pleat line in. Taking the length of the hem meant I lost some of the shape. I'm 5ft3" so I expected to have to shorten it a but but 9cm does seem a lot.

Some of the phrasing of the instructions seemed a little odd and I'm wondering if something is lost in the translation from French. Only tiny things which aren't a huge problem as referring to the illustrations clarifies things; for example it says to 'pink the pocket bag' so you can turn it to the wrong side when it actually means to snip the seam allowance into the corner. I'd read through the instructions before starting so spotted the areas I was wary of and made a few changes for personal preference.

I was going to attach my belt loops once the invisible zip was attached but before the lining was turned to the inside so they were just sewn to the shell and not right through the lining too. I didn't love the idea of that stitching showing on the inside when you've gone to the effort of lining. But then I realised that wouldn't be possible because the waistband is topstitched along the lower edge to seal up the insides. When it came to it I ended up unpicking my topstitching and leaving the shell and lining hanging free from each other as it was nigh on impossible to get seams at the bottom of the waistband and waistband facing lined up so the topstitching looked really terribly uneven from the inside. I'd like to give this a go on another version though, perhaps stitching in the ditch rather than topstitching as it would be a lovely secure finish.

Speaking of belt loops my inclination is either to make the belt loops longer or the belt itself narrower as the belt at the moment can't lay flat though the loops and looks really scruffy once tied. Its worth noting that the steps to create the belt and assemble the lining aren't illustrated and there is the potential to go wrong there. Make sure you are sewing the two pieces of the belt together by the short ends so you end up with a long, narrow strip rather than short and fat! Also watch out when you are cutting your pattern pieces that you are marking the right pleat lines for the length of skirt you are making. Both the short skirt and midi length are on the same pattern pieces and the pleat lines are easy to confuse. I triple checked!

I added a couple of my own tricks to the instructions such as adding twill tape to the pocket opening seam allowances for extra strength, this style of pocket is very tempting to keep your hands in which means could potentially quite easily get stretched out. I also under-stitched along the top edge of the waistband to encourage the facing to roll to the inside.

When assembling the front lining the instructions say to sew the centre front seam to 1cm above the slit but the slit isn't actually marked on the pattern piece. By looking ahead in the instructions to see how the slit was later finished I decided to sew it to the same point as I did the front piece but this was a little low. I unpicked about 2cm to get the finishing to work. There's quite a bit of hand stitching involved in finishing the hem and centre front split but I really enjoyed this part!

The roomy pockets appealed to me but in reality and despite appearances they are not all that deep! My phone only just about gets in there and I want to be able to plunge my hands down further into them. I might add a bit of length to the pocket bag pieces next time. My real bug bear with this skirt is that the lining wants to peek out of the front slit despite it being hand-stitched down around that edge. I certainly haven't helped that with my choice of contrasting print and the drapey viscose (from my stash) is probably exacerbating the problem as it shifts about so much. A crisper choice might stay put. As a bit of a fix I might catch the lining to the shell at the hem in a few places with thread chains so it still has some movement but keeps to the shape of the shell a little better. I'm considering doing without the lining next time and I'd simply hand stitch the bottom edge of the waistband facing down.

You can still see where my topstitching was!

I'd say you want to have a little bit of confidence in your sewing skills to make this as some aspects are slightly fiddly. In general I prefer illustrated instructions like these to those with photographs; theres something about line drawings that I find easier to follow. However there are a couple of points in this where a photograph would have reassured me I'd done it right as the illustrations are all a 'wide angle' view of the whole garment rather than a close up of where you should be stitching. In particular how to finish the front slit cleanly and sew those corners at the top of the pockets. Its a little tricky to get the lining completely tucked away in this area (although you have under-stitched along the opening which helps). I was actually really chuffed with how the corners turned out...then realised they are concealed behind the front pleat anyway!

I'm in two minds about this project and think I still love the idea more than the reality. Its one of those garments that I want to wear but whenever I put it on just doesn't feel quite right. I've got a beautiful piece of paprika weighty yet soft slubbed linen in my stash which I think might better suit this style than the crisp cotton, especially unlined so I might give the pattern another whirl with some tweaks. There's plenty to think about before the next version!

Tartan Wool Ailakki Trousers

Say hello to my new favourite trousers! I'm not quite sure where the idea for these came from. They're one of those projects that fester away in the back of your brain for a long time and when you finally get around to making them then turn out to be so much better than you initially hoped!

I ordered this beautiful tartan wool suiting from The Fabric Store back in January with a pair of classic trousers in mind. My intention was initially slim fitting cigarette pants and I was thinking about using the Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers. However, I personally have a bit of a love/hate relationship with this pattern; in that I LOVE the style and idea of them on me but I have had a total nightmare trying to fit them. I've had two goes at them but each time have fallen down a rabbit hole of alterations, none of which seem to help or if the adjustment does make a positive difference it seems to have a negative effect elsewhere. I've even tried changing the crotch curve of the pattern to be that of a pattern which does work for me but to no avail. Any fitting tips and advice for this pattern would be most welcome as I am determined to conquer them at some point but perhaps I should concede that they're just not made for me. Ultimately the close fitting cut of those is better suited to woven fabrics with a little stretch anyway so not a match made in heaven with my firmly woven suiting.

I was looking online at other patterns for slim or peg-legged trousers with a high waist when I realised the cut I was envisioning already existed in my pattern stash in the form of the Named Ailakki Cross Front Jumpsuit. My berry coloured version of this pattern is one of, if not THE all time favourite thing I've made and I've since used the trouser portion of this pattern again to make my black tuxedo style jumpsuit. The tapered cut of these is beautiful and the fit of the size 38 is nigh on spot on for me straight out of the envelope, especially through the lower back and bum. I did make one change to the pattern to achieve a slightly slimmer leg. While I like the volume of the leg on the jumpsuit as it balances the fairly skimpy bodice nicely I wanted a slightly more tailored look from these. I both narrowed the leg and raised the crotch slightly by using a 1" seam allowance instead of 1cm on the inner leg seams. I was worried I had overdone it and would end up restricting my movement but I couldn't be more delighted with how this has turned out.

To make these as trousers rather than a jumpsuit was really straightforward. I cut all the trouser pattern pieces as usual and the two waistbands. Once the trousers were assembled I sewed the exterior waistband to the top then sewed the waistband facing to it along the top edge, as you do for the jumpsuit just without sandwiching the bodice between the two pieces. At this point I decided to under stitch along this top edge to keep it crisp and clean without the facing rolling out to the right side. Then I inserted the zip as usual, running the top of the teeth up to the top of the waistband. Then pressed in the raw edges of the waistband facing and stitched it all down by hand.

The waistband could do with being a fraction tighter but gives me room for a big meal! The room in the waistband is not as noticeable with the full jumpsuit as the bodice is holding it up but with a separate pair of trousers the waistband needs to be fairly snug to keep everything in place.

I've noticed with both my jumpsuits and now these that there's something a little awkward about the way the pockets sit. The pocket bags almost feel like they want to head towards the back of the garment rather than sitting nicely in front. I'd added in the step of under stitching both pocket edges on my previous versions so tried combatting the strange hang by just under-stitching the front opening and it has helped but not solved the issue. I'm now wondering if it is to do with the facing on the rear pocket bag which is actually a feature I really love. I might try making the back piece a little larger next time to see if that helps it swing forward. I actually think I'd make the pockets a bit larger in general anyway as they don't quite fully hold my phone at the moment an that is always handy.

As for the fabric it has been an absolute dream to work with and a dream to wear. It has a lovely smooth hand and is fairly fine as you would expect from a suiting but still has some substance to it. Some wool suitings are a little too flimsy for my preference, especially for trousers. This feels quite robust and like it will withstand some wear. Which is a good thing as they're certainly going to get some! I'd say it has the perfect weight and drape for a tailored trouser and these hang so well. I've been washing and handling it in the same manner I do all my merino wools; a 30 degree gentle/wool cycle in the machine, a cool to medium heat on the iron and I gave it a good steamy press before cutting to really minimise the chance of any further shrinkage. I used a size 80 microtex needle in my machine and it sewed up so smoothly.

This fabric does fray quite easily so I finished all the internal seams on the overlocker. If you are planning on making this pattern I would recommend following the advice to finish your seam allowances before assembly as it is tricky to get into some areas (for example around the pockets) afterwards. I hemmed the trousers at just above ankle length (removing an inch) but have often worn them rolled up to a slightly shorter cropped length. If I'd realised I'd do this so much beforehand I might have considered a different seam allowance finish as I'm not a big fan of seeing the overlocking exposed in the turn up. Next time I might try a flat felled seam or perhaps binding would be a nice touch.

I had 1.25m of the wool which was just about right although I could probably squeeze them out of a metre of a solid colour. I really like that the navy and green tartan combo is fairly subtle. I don't think I've got the confidence to pull off full Rod Stewart style as much as I would like to! I'll hold my hands up and admit that my pattern matching isn't fantastic. I did give it a stab by lining up the side seam notches on the same line in the tartan and this has worked to some extent but I should have cut everything out on a single layer to ensure a good match all the way around. I was simply too lazy to trace my pattern pieces off a second time! If I had I might have avoided the slight mismatch along the crotch seam and left leg. I'm kicking myself slightly for not putting a bit more effort in but at the time of cutting I didn't realise how big a success these were going to be. At least I can't really see those areas when they're on so it doesn't overly bother me!

These feel so on trend right now as well as incredibly comfortable and I have been really enjoying wearing them both dressed up for date night with heels or with scruffy sneakers for day. A simple tee tucked in the top works great for either or these and one of my many Ogden Camis also make a great pairing. I think I could definitely find use for another couple of pairs of these in solid colours. Proof of how much mileage can be had out of the patterns you already own. I'm glad I got around to making at least this pair before summer arrives (if it ever will!) as they the perfect weight, warmth and style for spring.