December Indie Pattern Update!

I hope you've had a wonderful festive season with your loved ones and are looking forward to the new year! I'm kicking it off with a bit of a change and am sorry to say that this is going to be the last Indie Pattern Update I will be writing. The indie sewing community has developed at an astonishing rate over the years I have been writing these posts...which is of course something to be celebrated! But it has left me struggling to keep up with all the news alongside an increasingly hectic work schedule and personal life and I've been finding myself with less and less time to sew and blog. As I'm travelling in January and February I won't be able to post an update so I've unfortunately decided that that is a good time to finish up. I'll definitely miss writing these and the interaction with you guys about the new designs but I will be sharing some of my favourite new releases in my Instagram Stories from time to time if you'd like to follow me there. If you're still itching for your fix of sewing pattern news The Fold Line post a great monthly round up and video on their blog and Helen (from Helen's Closet and the Love to Sew podcast) writes her fantastic Wednesday Weekly posts which include new pattern releases. Luckily there have been a plethora of stunning new releases this month so I can go out with a bang!

New Patterns

• Schnittchen released four new quick and simple patterns throughout December, each one on an advent Sunday as a festive treat for us! The Kiki Shirt was the first; a blouse with a ruffle feature around the front yoke. Second was the Lenja Coat, an unlined a-line short coat with wide lapels and diagonal seaming into which pockets are inserted. Third was the Sina Caftan Dress which features a centre front box pleat and short kimono sleeves with optional add on dramatic bishops sleeves. The Smilla Wrap Blouse was the final design and features a belt which threads through the inside of the top. I love the elegant shape of the collar and v-neckline.
• Wendy Ward from MIY Collection released the Rutland Collection E-Book. If you spotted this one before Christmas you might have made up some of these designs already as all five accessory designs included make great unisex gifts. Using no more than 0.6m of fabric each, the collection features an infinity scarf, snood, wrist warmers, a headband and waist warmer.
• I don't know how I missed these two last month but I did; Patrons les BG released two brilliant new menswear designs including a junior version of their Le Décontracté sweatshirt and hoodie pattern. The other design is L'Irrésistible; a classic blouson bomber jacket and certainly one I'll be eyeing up next time I want to sew for the men in my life.
• Amongst the new free pattern downloads from Mood Fabrics this month were the Bixa Sweatshirt, Calla Coat, Cassia Skirt, Daisy Top, Douglas Pants, Darmera Jumpsuit, Eurya Dress, Ercilla Suit, Erica Skirt and Poinsettia Dress which is a real cracker of a New Year's Eve dress sewn up in ponte knit and adorned with shimmering fringe! Their new Calypso Jacket can be sewn up in coat length or a shorter jacket length with ribbed hem. They also released the Hydrus Cosplay to celebrate the release of the latest Fantastic Beasts film.
• Issue 5 of Lisa Comfort Magazine was released and with it two new patterns from Sew Over It.  The Ivy Skirt is an asymmetrical design with faux wrap at the front and the Annie Blouse is a loose fitting style for lightweight fabrics and features a gathered scoop neckline using shirring elastic.
• Style Arc's first December release was the Brice Jumpsuit. I love this one. Designed for knits (and I'm imagining something with a little structure would be great) it has clean lines, a v-neck and tie belt. It can be made sleeved or sleeveless and also includes pattern pieces for a fitted skirt. They also released the Portia Top and Ellen Shorts which can be bought in a discounted bundle to make a great outfit. Portia is a button through cami and Ellen has an elasticated paper-bag waist with patch pockets which extend to create belt loops.
• Maternity Sewing released the Knit Infinity Dress, which can be worn pregnant or not pregnant! The straps can be tied multiple ways and will accommodate A-F cups and the pattern also includes a separate bandeau to make for extra skin coverage.
• Both the new Adrienne Blouse and Joan Trousers from Friday Pattern Company are designed for knit fabrics but on first glance I thought both were definitely woven. Hidden comfort for the win! Adrienne has beautiful billowing sleeves and Joan features wide legs and pockets. Print versions of both styles coming soon.
• If you don't know what to do with your knit fabric scraps Paper Theory have come up with a great solutions with their new Stevie Knickers! The pattern is free to download when you sign up to their newsletter and their is a full tutorial on their blog to guide you through every step of sewing them up.
• The latest addition to the Now & Then Patterns line from Til The Sun Goes Down is the All Seasons Dress & Skirt. The slim skirt with long inverted pleats is inspired by the 1930s along with the a buttoning bodice with collar. I love the angle of armholes on the sleeveless option and all the little triangular design details.
• New to download from Atacac is the /-Sweater. Their designs continue to fascinate me with their clever pattern cutting and this one is no exception. It is a asymmetrical style and the body is cut in just one piece. There is no charge to download Atacac designs but you can make a donation.
• Gertie released the next design in her Charm Patterns line. The Jane Set is inspired by jumpsuits of the 1950s and includes tonnes of options! You can make a jumpsuit, playsuit with optional sarong front or separate pants, shorts and bustier.
• The new patterns released with this month's edition of Seamwork Magazine were Rachel and Channing. The Rachel button up shirt has a spread collar and shaping created with bust darts and a centre back tuck which releases at the waist. The Channing trousers feature a mid rise, tapered leg and beautiful front pleats into the waistband.
• The new Lola Linen Trench from Fabrics Store has a beautifully elegant silhouette with back vent, flat felled seams and deep welt pockets. I love the details and cut of this!
• The last PDF pattern release of the year from Sew Over It is the Thea Dress. I love the casual elegance of this jersey style and how easy it is to wear. It has a cocoon shape, dropped shoulder and narrow sleeve and can be sewn in two lengths.
• New from Hot Patterns is the HP1243 Wong-Singh-Jones Jaipur Blouse & Tunic. This pull on style is packed with lovely details and would be effortlessly glamorous in a printed silk. It features a v-neck and open collar plus sleeves with a keyhole opening and optional cuff-link or buttoning closure.
• Straight Stitch Designs released the Eastlake Top which is a knit style with deep v-neck finished with a facing. The pattern offers multiple style options with two sleeve lengths, two cuffs, two lengths and the option to sew the back plain or with a gathered yoke.
• I love the new Hilary Top from Tessuti. It features a pleated peplum and a boat neck gathered at the shoulders along with beautiful peasant style sleeves. If I get time I'll be making one of these up for my holiday!
• Orageuse released a new collection of four beautiful detailed designs! The Épicéa Blouse has a cross over back with cut out and a long belt which ties around the hips. The Cèdre Blouson is a crisp, modern take on a classic bomber jacket with vertical pleats and a high collar. The Laurier Top has a wide v-neckline with geometric contrasting yoke. My favourite of the bunch, the Acacia Jumpsuit & Trousers, has a bib style bodice created by clever pleating and the wide leg trousers can be piped down the side seam or around the waist.
• Sew House Seven created a new pattern for Simplicity. 8790 is a hooded top & dress pattern featuring two styles of hood, the choice of raglan or dropped sleeve and optional waist tie and pockets. A great casual yet interesting basic which would be gorgeous made up in french terry.
• Delphine & Morissette launched the Clara Blouse. With a loose fit and voluminous sleeves gathering into cuffs, this has a high ruffled collar and a button and loop fastening over the shoulder which I adore!
• The last pattern of 2018 from Itch to Stitch is the Busan Top. This comfortable knit style features statement sleeves created by exaggerated narrow shoulders, volume from the shoulder pleats and elongated cuffs,
• Next in the line of children patterns from Style Arc is the Summer Swimsuit and Top. The pattern includes three styles for boys and girls, all with long sleeves for protection from the sun.
• The latest pattern from the Thrifty Stitcher, released on The Sewing Quarter earlier this month, is the Dawson Coatigan. This is a really clever, slightly tailored cocoon style. Easy to wear the interesting pockets provide detail and I love the shape of the collar created with little darts around the neck.
• Pipe Dream Patterns released the Peggy Pinafore which can be sewn up as a pinafore, dress or skirt. It features an exposed centre front zip, a fitted bodice and deep pleats around the waist give the skirt a bold shape.
• Wardrobe by Me released the Unisex PJ Pants pattern. A simple pair of pyjama bottoms with both elastic and a pull in string in the waistband casing. If you spotted this release before christmas these would have made a wonderful gift. 
• The Yvonna Yoga Pants are new from Gina Ree Designs. I love the gathered waistband detail on these which elevates them above being a boring regular pair of sweatpants.
• New from DG Patterns is the Nora Dress; a fitted faux wrap dress with a petal shape skirt, the hemline of which is emphasised with a frill. This design is suited to medium weight knits and has a modest depth of neckline compared to a lot of wrap dresses and long fitted sleeves.
• The Feel Free Raglan Shirt is the latest release from Sewera Fashion. This is one of those easy to wear basics with a unique subtle design twist which I love. In this instance the sleeves gather into the raglan shoulder seam.
• The latest addition to the House Morrighan line of lingerie patterns is the Clover Boybrief. They feature a contoured waistband and enclosed gusset and can be sewn either with fabric bands or elastic to finish.
• Pattern Union released the Sobi Belt. This is an obi-style belt which wraps and ties around the waist and can be made reversible. It would look great worn over a lot of their other designs.
• Digital Pattern Library released the Asymmetric Culottes which I absolutely adore. They have the vibe of the Japanese Pattern cutting books but look a lot more simple to construct. They have a super wide leg and wrap across the front to tie towards the side seam.

Pattern updates and expansions

• The Megan Nielsen Axel Skirt pattern is now available in curve sizes 14-30, currently in PDF format only but with two print at home options and two copyshop.
• Dessine Moi Un Patron released five of their designs as part of their first plus size collection, including sizes 48-56. These sizes are currently available in PDF only and include the Violette Blouse, Balmoral Top, Sable Jacket, Granite Sweatshirt and the Leaf Dress.
• Tessuti have also been working on expanding the size range of a number of their patterns. This month the plus size versions of the Bondi Dress, Bella Dress and Felicia Pinafore Dress were launched. 
• I AM Patterns released a free add-on for the Luna Blouse. The download includes three new flat collar shapes to give you even more mileage from the pattern.

Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses

• True Bias posted a sew-along for their beautiful Salida Skirt which was released last month. The posts guide you through every step of the process including fabric choice and sewing that front fly.
• Sew House Seven posted a sew-along for their Montavilla Muumuu which guides you through the creation of this dress with colour photographs in one post! They have a sew-along for their popular Burnside Bibs pattern coming soon too.
• Megan Nielsen posted some tutorial posts to help you with sewing their new Dawn Jeans pattern. These posts can be used in combination with the Ash Jeans sew-along to give you a full step by step of the entire jeans making process.

Upcoming!

• The Hemming's third pattern release will be trousers featuring a wide leg, deep hem and pleats into the waistband. Coming very soon! 
• The Maria Denmark 408 pattern is coming at the end of January! If you can't wait until then for this new design for knits it will be available in Danish with Sysiden on January 3rd.
• Scroop Patterns are currently testing their next pattern which will be for a pair of wide legged trousers. They are 1930s inspired but with a modern fit and construction.
• The Annie Top is soon to be released by ZigZag Designs. From a sneaky peek on Instagram it looks like it features a boat neck and the option to make sleeved or sleeveless, plus it is reversible!

Other Exciting News!

• The Deer and Doe Brume and Fumeterre Skirts are the latest pattern from their line to be released in PDF format.

Here's a final dose of indie sewing inspiration to get your new year sewing plans off to a good start. All that's left to do now is to wish you all a very happy 2019!

• Rumana's leopard print version of the Eloise Dress made me see the pattern in a whole new light. It may be making an appearance on my spring sewing list!
• Alice from Cloth Spot makes some seriously amazing things and this leopard faux fur coat is no exception. I also really enjoyed the blog post and her thoughts on dressing bravely.
• Lauren made a completely incredible coat using the Quart Coat pattern and some stunning Alexander McQueen wool which has skulls subtly woven into it. 
• I liked everything from the new Papercut Patterns collection but was probably least interested in the Pinnacle Top. Karyn has totally changed my mind with her gorgeous version. I love the texture of that fabric!
• I haven't got time to make even half the things on my wish list before heading off on holiday in a couple of weeks but at the top of the queue is a Sierra Jumpsuit, especially after seeing this beauty from Sophie.

Denim McCalls 7330 Jumpsuit

The story of this project begins with a utility style jumpsuit I spotted on the high street when I was shopping for a show a couple of months back. It is quite unusual nowadays for a RTW garment to catch my eye in the way this did but I just knew it was the kind of clothing I would wear day in, day out. I did consider buying it but when I tried it on didn't love the fit and there were a couple of things I wanted to change about it; namely the lack of hip pockets (my hands felt like they had nowhere to go!) and the elasticated waist which I never find very comfortable in a woven garment. If I didn't sew I might have bought it anyway but luckily I do and I knew I could make myself a version I loved even more!

I spent quite a lot of time looking for a similar pattern and put out a poll on Instagram for ideas before settling on McCalls 7330. Jasika Nicole actually posted a very similar hack of this pattern a couple of weeks back. Thanks for the advice if you put forward a suggestion! Since then a few more patterns along a similar line have popped up if you are looking for one; the Jean-Paul Coverall from Ready to Sew, Intrepid Boilersuit from Alice & Co and the upcoming Len Coveralls from Sugardale. The fabric I've used is this Soft Indigo Stretch Denim from Fabric Godmother. It is the perfect mid weight for this style and is wonderfully soft which works better than a crisp stiff denim would for that gathered bodice. The little bit of stretch combined with that soft finish makes it so comfortable to wear too! I actually picked this fabric in person at one of the Fabric Godmother Open Days, I was drawn to the rich indigo blue colour. The colour has maintained it's intensity when washed and didn't stain my hands at all while I was working with it which sometimes denim in colours this deep can do!

I say this is McCalls 7330 but I've actually made quite a lot of changes to the pattern to get it to look more like the inspiration. One of the bigger changes was giving it a wider leg. I used the leg pattern pieces of the Persephone Pants as a guide to the shape. I pinned my McCalls pattern pieces in place on the fabric then laid the Persephones on top, aligning the grainline, the innermost point of the crotch and the top corner of the side seam. The crotch shapes were completely different which was quite interesting, although I didn't expect them to be the same because the two styles have a very different fit. I drew with chalk around the Persephone Pants pieces straight on to my fabric to give me my new cutting line. Before cutting I measured the length of the side seam and inside leg to check the back and front still matched.

Looking at the pattern pieces for the bodice I noticed that the waistband actually sits below the natural waist on the high hip. I wanted the waist to be at my narrowest point so shortened the bodice by 1 1/4" at the lengthen/shorten line. To compensate for that and make sure the jumpsuit wasn't too short in the body I lengthened the rise of the trouser pieces by the same amount at the lengthen/shorten line. It turns out that I probably didn't need to lengthen the rise as the crotch feels quite low. I actually wish I'd remembered the fact that I usually have to take some length out of the body of big 4 patterns as I am quite short in this area. I did this on my denim McCalls 6696 shirtdress and that fits like a dream and this feels like I have too much space in the shoulder because the waistband wants to rides up. I think I should have shortened the bodice by another inch. When I can muster up enough patience I will probably unpick my lovely topstitched waistband to do that!

The inspiration jumpsuit didn't have a yoke but I really liked this feature on the pattern and the fact that it added another opportunity for topstitching (my favourite!) so kept it in. I loved the pocket detail on the inspiration garment so decided to add the little topstitched tucks to my breast pockets. I added an extra 4cm of width to my pocket pieces when I cut them so I could use 2cm for each tuck. I made and stitched down the tucks before doing anything else with the pocket pieces. I also wanted to add pocket flaps so I cut 4 rectangles at the same width as the pocket pieces (without the extra for the tucks) and at 5cm deep plus seam allowance.

I cut a tie belt for the waist but did without belt loops so I could wear it without too. The belt is simply two long rectangles of fabric stitched together, turned through and topstitched. It is 130cm long and 5cm wide plus seam allowance. I opted not to interface the tie belt as I wanted the ends to stay nice and soft and hang naturally.

Quite a lot of jumpsuits in this coverall style have a loose fit around the waist and one of the reasons I went with this pattern over the others was the inclusion of a waistband giving more shape. I think I've said before that gathering is probably my least favourite sewing technique so I wasn't delighted to see that not only is the bodice gathered into the waistband but the trousers are too. I was tempted to take this out by turning it into darts but as the inspiration garment had a gathered effect created by the elasticated waist I stuck with it. If I'd been making it in a stiffer or heavier denim it would have been a bulky disaster but this soft stuff gathers really well. In hindsight the best solution would have been darts rather than gathering in the trouser and possibly the front bodice but keeping the gathering in the back. I'd like those trousers to fit more closely around the hips, more like the style of the Persephone pants actually so perhaps I should have used the whole pattern piece from those and the bodice and pockets from this rather than just the leg shape below the hip!

For reference I cut the size S when the envelope recommended a M, the small is actually a good 2-3" below my measurements and is still fairly roomy. I find the amount of ease included in the big 4 patterns pretty exasperating, particularly when it bears no resemblance to the sample shown on the pattern envelope in terms of fit. I tend to always go down a size if not two and will check the finished garment measurements carefully or measure the pattern pieces to determine the appropriate fit.

The shape of the collar is quite round, emphasised by a fairly wide neckline for this kind of collar with stand and the front corners are quite square. I'm quite enjoying this though and I like that rather than buttoning right up to the collar there is a slight v-neck. It adds a feminine touch. The stretch in the denim does make it a little more difficult to get crisp pointed corners as it is easy to stretch things out of shape with aggressive use of a point turner! Some of mine are a little more rounded than I would like. But the denim more than makes up for this with the way it moulds and shapes so beautifully with steam and holds a nice clean edge too.

Assembling the fly felt super easy although it was a little nerve wracking stitching around the fly in such a contrasting topstitch thread! I realised afterwards that what made it feel so easy is that this pattern doesn't include a fly shield which is a bit odd. The back of the zip is completely exposed which I thick could be a little uncomfortable but it is not a close fitting style and has been fine so far. I chose to use a metal jeans zip as I thought this would look most professional against the denim but the pattern suggests a regular trouser zip so perhaps that is why there is no shield. I'm really pleased with my finishing all the way down the centre front; from the fly to the waistband overlap which closes with a hook and bar to the buttoning plackets on the bodice.

I took inspiration for my topstitching from the white on navy detailing on the workwear which is so on trend at the moment. I used Col. 01 Gutermann rPet recycled sew-all thread for topstitching, it is slightly off white as the white white felt too harsh against the indigo. I wanted contrast but wanted to feel like it belonged too. I didn't use the thicker topstitching thread as I was worried it would all get a bit too cartoon like, I prefer a subtler effect! I spent quite a lot of time deliberating where to topstitch and then which side of the seam. In a couple of places I actually topstitched both sides of the seam which I love the look of; I did the underarm, bodice side seam and inside leg but felt it was a little much down the trouser side seam too. I originally topstitched the pocket flaps on but this looked a little odd so I redid it so you can't see the stitching. I topstitched at 1/4" away from the seam which is further away than I would usually do. I think it makes it stand out more as an intentional design feature.

The wooden buttons are from my stash but I believe I originally got them in John Lewis on little cards. I was planning on using bigger buttons like the RTW inspiration but those buttons looked a bit odd on the slim plackets of the McCalls pattern. I love the combination of natural wood and denim and the pop of contrast from the white button holes too.

The inspiration jumpsuit had a cropped leg which I really loved but I've already got quite a few pairs of cropped trousers in my wardrobe and with the cold weather around the corner I decided a full length on these would probably be more practical. The length of the trousers was surprisingly on the short side when I first tried them on and I had already added about an inch when cutting as I spotted that the Persephone pieces where shorter. The pattern calls for a hem 1" deep which I would have rather done as I like a deep hem with topstitching on these styles but to get the full length I wanted I had to resort to overlocking the raw edge and turning up just half and inch. I'd love them to be even longer so I could pair the jumpsuit with wedge heels and big hoop earrings for a real seventies vibe!

Head to toe denim feels like quite a style statement but I'm in love with the look and finish of this. It is so close to the perfect jumpsuit I had in my head and I'm slightly kicking myself for skipping a muslin because I was so keen to wear it. My issues with the bodice length and amount of gathering could have been easily remedied had I done so. Let that be a lesson to us all! Thanks Josie at Fabric Godmother for making my solving my jumpsuit dilemma and making this a reality!