Saturday, 22 June 2019

Maroon Crepe Evie Bias Skirt

Hello readers, it has been a while! An extremely busy few months of long hours at work has left me with limited time to sew and often little motivation to do so. When I have been sewing I've had two quite big projects to work on (more on these soon!) which has seen my sewing output dwindle considerably. The project I'm sharing with you today is actually quite a quick make which I finished before my sewing slump but it has seen a considerable amount of wear since then!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

This is the Evie Bias Skirt from Tessuti and I'm not sure what possessed me to make it as it is quite a departure from my every day style of late! I think I kept seeing gorgeous versions on Instagram and as I've only had great experiences with Tessuti patterns previously this tempted me to give it a try. It is such an easy to wear shape and dresses up or down well too. The only slight niggle I have with it is that I don't love the bias cut over the tummy area so pick and choose my days when I feel happy wearing it!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

The fabric is this Little Square Poly Crepe from The Fabric Store...yes a polyester! I'm usually wary of buying polyester online as often it can feel quite nasty and be unpleasant to work with but I fell in love with this print when I spotted it in the New Arrivals section a few months back and I trust the quality of fabrics from The Fabric Store in general. I was very happy with it when it arrived. Yes the hand isn't as smooth or pleasant to touch as a viscose but the drape is glorious and it works for the shape of this pattern well as it retains a bit of weight. You don't want anything too fine that might hang a bit limply; although I am considering a version in silk chiffon lined with a fine crepe as I think this might have a nice frothy effect.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

At first glance it looks like a classic white polka dot print and in this colour it has a real 1940's vibe to me. However, on closer inspection the polka dots are actually little squares which gives the print a contemporary twist. I've been wearing a lot of this warm wine colour over the past season and adore it. The simple shape of the skirt is a great blank canvas to showcase beautiful fabric, although if you are considering using a print remember that it is cut on the bias so a directional print will end up on a diagonal. I love that this turned my print from a regular regimented polka dot into something a little more interesting. The bias cut means you need a little more fabric than you think for a simple looking skirt. The pattern recommends 1.65m for my size and I needed it. If you're the type of person, like me, who pretty much always assumes that pattern companies suggest a lot more fabric than really necessary and never follows the pattern cutting layout, it is worth noting that Tessuti are quite economical with their quantities.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

I have hardly sewn anything on the bias before and even then just the odd panel rather than a full garment so I was quite nervous about the pattern pieces stretching out, particularly around the waistline. I was really careful with my pattern pieces after I had cut them, keeping them laid flat. Tessuti patterns often use tear away Vilene for stabilising seams but I've never got any to hand so I switched out that step for regular stay stitching along the waistline and zip opening. I did this before I did anything else. I left the skirt to hang for a while before hemming as I expected it to drop unevenly but I had no trouble and simply hemmed it as it was without trimming anything off

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

The pattern comes with two options for finishing the waistline; either with a narrow scallop edged elastic or a bias facing. I opted for the bias facing as I've never been a huge fan of an elasticated waist and I wanted to avoid anything about this style clinging as far as possible. I really liked the method for attaching the bias tape which has you turn it over and stitch it twice to conceal the raw edges rather than fiddling around with trying to turn everything under in one swoop. On this version the skirt is fastened with an invisible zip and hook and eye at the side seam which is nice and clean.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

The hem is finished with a narrow hem although there's also instructions to create a raw hem with linen. I don't do a narrow hem very much but loved sewing this and the resulting effect. For a polyester this crepe presses and holds a crisp edge very nicely. Everything about the chosen finishing techniques for this feels delicate and classy which is something I've noticed with a lot of Tessuti patterns. I like their way of sewing.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

I cut the size 8 which is a tad larger than my waist measurement and it fits like an absolute glove. There is a little room around the waist but for me that equates to the perfect amount of wearing ease to feel comfortable in this style. The finished garment measurements indicate no ease and for me personally that is too snug. The pattern is described as being drafted to flatter the body and I have to agree. I love the cut around the waist and hips and the a-line shape has just the right amount of flare to it. The midi length trend has never seemed that wearable to me being petite; I've always wound up shortening things but for some reason in a bias cut like this I love it. It is quite a short midi but I think I've accidentally found my ideal length; I need a bit of leg on show to balance my proportions.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt in Maroon Polka Dot Polyester Crepe from The Fabric Store

This skirt paired with a Nikko Top and ankle boots has been my go-to outfit over the last few months when I want to feel a little dressed up and ladylike. I'm on the hunt now for a fabric to make a summer version in to pair with tees and pumps for day and strappy sandals by night.

2 comments:

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment letting me know what you thought about this post/make! Any hints or tips to improve my sewing are always much appreciated too!