Tencel Twill Zadie Jumpsuit

I haven't had time to blog much of late but I have been squeezing in bits and pieces of sewing when I can. I've got a few completed projects to share with you but this jumped the queue to be my final post of the year as I loved it so much after putting in the final stitches a few days ago. It seems appropriate to wrap up the year with this pattern as my first version remains a favourite in my wardrobe and is my most worn handmade garment of 2019! It is the Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory made up in a glorious sand-washed tencel twill from Patterns and Plains.

As I've previously made this pattern and reviewed it in depth here I don't have a huge amount extra to say other than that I love it just as much with sleeves and feel like I could comfortably wear this casual everyday with trainers or equally dressed up with heels. I took an inch off the length of the sleeves as they felt kind of in the middle of long and three quarter on me as they were. It feels sophisticated in that chic and understated way whilst still having an interesting contemporary cut and design details. I think it might become my go-to press night outfit! This is partly to do with the fabric choice which has the potential to feel much more glamorous than the cotton twill I used for my original version due to it's gorgeous soft texture, drape and sheen.

I'd heard good things about tencel and seen some gorgeous projects popping up on Instagram using it. However, it is actually quite hard to come by here in the UK so it wasn't until I discovered that Patterns and Plains are stocking a selection of colours that I decided to take the plunge and try it.  They stock this 'Helsinki' sand-washed twill in seven rich colours (all of which I would happily wear and fit in to my current wardrobe so you can probably expect to be seeing quite a lot more of this fabric!) and also have the 'Trieste' modal, bamboo and tencel blend which I'm tempted to try. This is the new sage green colour which I'd say is slightly less green than you might expect, in some lights more of a grey with a hint of green but I absolutely love it!

Tencel is a branded Oeko-Tex certified fibre that is made from wood pulp using environmentally friendly processes. The fibre production is more eco-friendly than cotton because it uses a 'closed-loop' process, reusing 99% of the water and solvents. Eco-friendly and a dream to work with and wear; what's not to love?! My usual go to fabric choice when sewing a garment that requires drape and movement is viscose and that is certainly more widely available, especially in prints. However, I'll certainly be putting tencel at the top of the queue from now on if I can find it in the right colour. it has the same amazing luxurious hand as a sand-washed silk (at a much more purse friendly price) combined with a weight, drape and opacity that makes it a match for so many different projects. I imagine there will be some variety in weight, weave e.t.c between different suppliers so would recommend ordering samples to see if it works for you.

I'm really pleased with my finishing on this version

This is my first project using fabric from Patterns and Plains (which I received in return for a review after receiving some samples of the tencel colour range) and I was very impressed with the customer service, speed of delivery and quality of the fabric. The price is very reasonable for an eco-friendly quality fabric and they also offer a thread matching service which is always a plus point when ordering online. It means you can get started right away when the fabric arrives! Amanda is very kindly offering all readers 20% off until midnight on New Year’s Eve excluding postage costs. Just enter the code DIARY20 at the checkout. The offer will work once per customer.

I'd expect a fabric of this weight and fluidity to have a somewhat slippery feel but the sand-washed finish makes it buttery soft, sort of similar to a peach skin. This also makes it much easier to cut and sew as the surface of the fabric has a slight grip against itself so pieces don't shift around in the same was as might a satin or chiffon. There is still a risk of pieces stretching out and distorting, especially edges cut on the bias and curves so I would make sure to follow the instructions to stay-stitch the neckline of the bodice before adding your binding. The beauty of this jumpsuit is that the wrap lays nice and flat and secure across the bust, you don't want it stretched out and wobbly.

Applying the bias around the curves of the front wrap is probably the trickiest part of making this jumpsuit (and the most time-consuming part turning through those long ties!). It's fiddly but nothing to put off an advancing beginner. If you're finding it hard I would recommend opening up the tape and stitching one side on first before folding it over and securing with a topstitch. The pattern instructions have you sandwich it over the raw edge and stitch in one go which can make it difficult to get a neat finish if you haven't had much practice with the technique. This tencel makes beautiful bias tape and I love the finished effect of the wrap.

For anyone who hasn't read my previous post and is thinking about making this jumpsuit there are a couple of things I think it is important to bear in mind. I personally think that this style looks best when the waistline and ties sit at the natural waist and accentuate that. The pattern is drafted for someone 5ft 7 tall I believe and quite a few people have noted that it seems quite long in the body. I'm 5ft 3 and shortened the bodice by 3/4" and the crotch depth by 3/4" too and this feels just about right. You do need some depth in the crotch for ease of movement.

The fluidity of this amazing fabric probably shows best in the flat photo. The way it hangs of the body and flows as you move makes this jumpsuit feel so elegant when you're wearing it. I might have to make a shorts version with short sleeves for summer in either the cinnamon or saffron colour!

Thanks to you all for reading and commenting over 2019! You really keep me inspired to sew and try new things. Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year!