White Linen In The Folds Wrap Top from Peppermint Magazine

The project I'm sharing with you today was so enjoyable to make. I don't know about you but I haven't had the concentration of late to get stuck in to an all day or even all afternoon sewing sessions. This project turned out to be the perfect antidote to feeling frustrated with that and I sewed it up across a number of half-hour/hour stints. As I've become more experienced and confident with sewing I think I've developed a tendency to dive right in and speed through things. But this pattern (despite being straightforward and not particularly taxing to construct) made me stop, think and try something new. Trying something new and enjoying the process always makes me fall a little bit in love with sewing all over again. Plus at the end of the process I've made something I'm really proud of and I think improved my techniques slightly too.

This Wrap Top Pattern is one of the impressive selection of In The Folds patterns free to download from Peppermint Magazine. I'd heard really good things about Emily's drafting and instructions and after making this I would certainly agree with them! I'm kind of gobsmacked that this is a free pattern along with so many other gorgeous and well thought out designs. I'm particularly tempted by the Wide Leg Pants. The new patterns released with the magazine are now being produced by other indie designers but most of the back catalogue are Emily's.

For my first try of this pattern I opted for a classic white linen from The Fabric Store. If you're after a good supplier of quality linen I can't recommend them enough. The range of weights, colours and yarn dyed patterns is amazing. This is their standard mid-weight linen and is a great choice for this top. It would sew up equally beautifully in a drapey fabric like a viscose crepe but I love that the line provides a bit of structure. The rumpled quality suits the wrap style I think and is already softening up so nicely with wear. It was also an absolute joy to work with.

As I've said I loved that the instructions and construction techniques really encourage you to slow down, enjoy the process and create a beautifully finished garment. I've tried to include a section of clear close up photos of the inside in particular so you can appreciate the level of finishing the instructions provide. There is no need for an overlocker for this project as french seams are instructed throughout where possible; even the armholes are french seamed! Indeed the only place I did use my overlocker was to finish the raw edge of the back neckline facing but this could easily have been turned under and stitched instead. How the facing is attached cleanly at the shoulder is a different technique to those I have used before and I love it.

I really liked that the finishing is coherent across the garment. Where you can't french seam the side seam which needs an opening for the wrap ties you are given the option to turn them under and stitch down instead (option B). This looks so smart and I think ties in with the french seams nicely. You are directed to french seam he other side seam to match the seams on the rest of the top but I used the same turn under and stitch finish as I preferred matching topstitching on both side seams.

My only niggle with the instructions is that I got a bit confused with the size of the seam allowance. It varies throughout and rather than being stated at the start says it is noted in each step. Sometimes it wasn't clear, particularly when sewing french seams. I thought this might be because you are pointed towards a 'Seam Finishes' download when sewing french seams. A great informative document but it still left me a bit worried that I was taking too big or small a seam allowance. I came to the conclusion that the french seams have a 1.2cm seam allowance TOTAL (1/2") after spotting notches on the pattern pieces marking the stitching line seam allowance size.

I am really impressed with the drafting. Everything came together just as expected. The fit is really nice too. It isn't a close fitting wrap top if that is what you are after. There is quite a bit of ease around the bust but the shoulders fit neatly and the cut of the sleeves I think really balance out the proportions. The only thing I might tweak is to shorten it ever so slightly through the body as once the wrap is tied there it feels like it rides up a little and there is slightly too much excess fabric in the back.

Looking at the sample garment I felt like the neckline was a little too high for me personally so I lowered it by an inch. I took an inch off all the way along the centre front which meant adjusting the back and back facing pieces too as it creates a wider neckline. I also continued the inch reduction all the way along the front ties to make them a little skinny as that is more aesthetically pleasing to me and I didn't want to much bulk around the waist. I was worrying while I sewed it up that this would now be too low but it has turned out spot on for me. For a wrap top I'm so impressed with how this sits across the front. I don't feel at risk of exposure at all.

Making this has definitely made me more inclined to make a purchase of an In The Folds pattern. (That is after I've sewn up my next version of this top which I've already cut out!) I've often been intrigued by the interesting style lines and clean, wearable design aesthetic. The Acton Dress really appeals to me but the Flynn Jacket has also grabbed my attention. If you've made any In The Folds patterns I'd love to hear which and what you made of them to help me make my choice!

Navy Viscose Crepe Solina Top

The project I'm sharing with you today is a bit of a sewing fail. I don't often write a project off as a fail but persist until it turns into something that I can love and wear but I don't think there is anything I can do to save this one! I'll be writing it off as a toile that taught me a lesson and moving on.

The pattern (the Solina Top from the Breaking The Pattern book from Named Clothing) is gorgeous. And the fabric (a viscose crepe in a beautiful deep navy from Atelier Brunette) is equally gorgeous. They are unfortunately not so gorgeous together. The fault is entirely mine as I didn't read through and think through the construction of this top before taking the plunge. If I had done I would have realised that the style would benefit from a fabric with a bit more body and structure than this very delicate crepe. Looking at the images in the book I presumed that the top was loose fitting and cinched in at the waist by the ties. The ties are actually stitched into fixed pleats. This is great as it all sits correctly when you are wearing it but it is much more of a fitted style than first anticipated. I would have put more thought into the fitting if I had realised.

The Atelier Brunette viscose fabrics are absolutely exquisite in their luxurious delicacy and almost luminous sheen. They are perfect for billowing romantic designs which I mistook this for with the beautiful bows around the waist and cuffs. A viscose isn't entirely the wrong choice but this design requires something with more weight and substance like a viscose twill perhaps. The back of the top is fitted with a centre back invisible zip and two closed darts. In a fabric this lightweight the area around the zip really needs interfacing; mine ended up all stretched out and as the fit of the top is quite snug there are some unsightly wrinkles and twisting going on back there. A lesson has been learned in being too hasty!

I think the bows are very nice in a fabric with drape, although this particular fabric is a little limp and I'm wondering if they might have benefited from some interfacing. They would be wonderfully dramatic in something crisp and structured! Another thing to bear in mind when working with and Atelier Brunette crepe is that it has the most beautiful lustre but it really shows up every wrinkle and fold. You also need to be careful when pressing as it shows up every mark and seam allowance imprint if you are too vigorous.

With the 'Breaking The Pattern' theme the ladies at Named are encouraging us to get creative with a bit of pattern hacking and the patterns are designed to give you the freedom to play around with your own design choices. I can't say much pattern breaking went on for this top as I pretty much followed the instructions to the letter but one choice I did make was to include the slim stand collar. I deliberated over this choice for ages and think in the end I made the wrong one as a bit more skin on show at the neck might balance the design out better on my figure. What is unusual with the collar is that it is finished with a facing rather than folded under and topstitched or slipstitched down. You end up stitching in the ditch around the collar anyway so I think I'd do without the facing if I made this again.

As you might remember me saying in the post about my jumpsuit from Wendy Ward's book, I'm not a huge fan of sewing with patterns from books but both with this project and my previous I was pleasantly surprised with how quick and easy the tracing process was. Again I'd chosen a project which was a little further along in the book so I had to do a lot of cross referencing between instructions for other patterns to make this one up. It all got a bit confusing but turned out OK when I got into the swing of things. When working from a book I generally find the projects take a bit longer, especially the prep work and getting used to how to how the book works to find the info you need. This isn't necessarily a bad thing and I'm definitely trying to slow my sewing down and enjoy each stage of the process at the moment. Maybe more sewing from books is the way to go!

I cut the size 3 (UK10/EU 38) which is spot on my measurements and the size I always cut with Named patterns. It looked like this one included a generous amount of ease so I'm quite surprised by the closeness of the fit. It isn't too small though and the fit of the sleeves and across the shoulders is spot on for me. I generally get a good fit with their patterns and the only thing I ever adjust is the length as I'm quite petite. With this top I left the sleeve length as it was (a little long) as the ties keep them sitting in the right spot and I like the slight blouson effect created by the excess length. The length of the top itself I deliberated over as it looked quite short in the book. The amount of fabric I had allowed me to lengthen the pieces by 5" from the hemline (I had 1.5m of 140cm wide fabric) but I trimmed 4.5cm of this back off once I'd tried it on. I'm still not 100% sure on the length the hemline feels a bit blunt to me and no matter what height I made it it seemed to cut my torso off in a weird spot. Proportionally I think the length of this is in general is a bit off on my body shape as the pleats don't open out over the bust quite right either. I think I need to take a little of the length out above the waist. If I'm honest with myself I had my doubts about how much I would like this style on me when I started making it but I was sucked in by how much I loved it in the book and on everyone else!

I do think this style would look much more balanced on me as a dress and if I find the right fabric I may well give it a whirl and play around with the front pleats a little. This top has served me very well as a practice run of this design...even if the fabric was a little bit too special for a practice! While I await the right fabric falling in to my lap there are plenty of other designs in the beautiful book to keep me busy; the Halla Coat is on my list to sew for next winter and I adore the Rae Pants with the front splits. I think they would be great for beach attire. I can't get enough of that chic Named Scandi style!

Ochre Viscose Twill Hannah Wrap Top

The Hannah Dress from By Hand London has been on my radar since it was released last year and has proved to be a very popular choice so far this Me Made May. I love a wrap style; so flattering and easy to wear and sew too without any buttons or zips to fiddle around with! I have had trouble previously with getting wrap necklines to sit right on me and therefore before plunging in with a dress I opted to make the top/tunic version first. The top isn't illustrated on the pattern but there is a marking for the tunic length peplum on the skirt pattern pieces which I used. This is the exact length you're looking at here.

The fabric I've used is a beautiful viscose twill from Atelier Brunette. They very kindly gifted me two lengths from their Autumn 2019 collection shortly after release. This is the 'twig' design in the ochre colour-way. FYI their new Summer 2020 collection is absolutely exquisite! I've worked with Atelier Brunette fabrics previously and the quality is sublime. They feel so luxurious. The viscose twill is very fine with a beautiful drape and buttery soft hand. All their viscose has a really elegant sheen to it. The lightweight, shifty nature of these fabrics can make them a little tricky to work with but I recommend patience, stay-stitching and lots of fine pins and the results will be worth it!

I made the UK 10 which is pretty much bang on my measurements and is the BHL size I usually make. It has come out slightly big all over which might be to do with this fine and delicate viscose stretching out a little as I worked (despite my careful handling and stay-stitching!). I sort of wish I had made one in a crisp cotton something first to get a better idea of fit but I kind of like the overall rumpled and blousy effect in this billowing viscose! It has been a while since I've made a BHL pattern and I forgot that they are drafted for a slightly broader and longer shoulder than mine. I usually end up taking their patterns up through the shoulder slightly (so shortening the distance between the shoulder and bust) for a more secure fit and think this would have made the world of difference for this top.

As I was nervous about the depth of the neckline I added about 3/4" depth to the central point (where the v is deepest. I marked this point on my pattern pieces and marked 3/4" out from there on paper stuck behind and then drew a gradual curved line out so to nothing at the shoulder seam and waistline. This drapey, fluid fabric kind of flops down over the chest so I'm not sure that the alteration has made much difference but I think in a crisper more structured fabric the neckline would be fine. I don't feel at risk of full exposure but as I move around it is a little bit too booby for me!  I will probably just add a small popper at the centre front neckline to help me feel more secure and in future versions I think my plan to take it up at the shoulder will solve this.

The long edge of the neckline is finished with a narrow bias tape facing. I only just managed to squeeze the top out of the 1.5m of fabric I had (those beautiful sleeves are fabric eaters!) so I had to use something else for the bias tape. I opted for the other fabric that Atelier Brunette had sent me; the viscose crepe in the exact same shade of navy as the twigs. I liked that the crepe had a similar weight to the twill so wouldn't effect the drape of the main fabric along the neckline. I love the contrasting pop on the inside of the garment but obviously had to be very careful when applying it so that none of it peeked out on the wrong side. I also stitched it down with navy thread in the needle and ochre thread in the bobbin so the stitching matched on both the right and wrong sides.

Speaking of thread colours I overlocked my internal seams and plumped for grey thread but don't love how it looks. I've always only kept black, white and grey overlocker thread cones as they seem to generally cover all bases between them and I don't have much storage space. But making this has made me wonder if I should add a rust/brown thread to my collection as I have been gravitating to warmer shades lately. How closely do you match your overlocker threads to your projects?

By Hand London does drama really well and these sleeves are no exception! The pattern comes with three sleeve styles; short, tulip and big bishops sleeves! They are certainly the talking point of this top. Definitely not altogether that practical (I wouldn't recommend cooking in this...trust me) but actually much easier to wear than I imagined and ever so glamourous. I love them and will definitely be using this pattern piece to add dramatic sleeves to a number of other patterns. I almost used the navy viscose for the sleeve ties as I thought it might make a nice contrast but I'm glad I stuck with the same fabric actually. I've seen people use elastic instead of the ties if that's your preference but you could also substitute in pretty ribbons for the ties so you don't have to make them. I spotted someone use organza ribbon the other day which is a lovely delicate romantic touch.

The difference with this style of wrap and a lot of others I have made is that there are two sets of ties to fasten (one at each side seam, inside on the right and outside on the left) which eliminates the hole in the side seam which one tie usually pulls through in order to wrap around the waist. I really like this but it does mean the fit is slightly less forgiving as you haven't got the flexibility of being able to just pull this a little tighter if it comes up a bit roomy. Jess from By Hand London made dress version recently for which she made the exterior ties bigger so there is a big bow on the waist which I love!

The instructions are good as I have come to expect with all By Hand London patterns. They are thorough without being overly detailed, they don't hold a beginner's hand but use good construction techniques which will leave you with a lovely finish. With it's multiple variations and hacking opportunities this is certainly a pattern I can see myself getting creative with in the future. I'm envisioning a tulip sleeved top and bishop sleeved cheesecloth dress at the moment but the inspiration seems endless...