Sunday, 10 February 2019

Leaf Green Linen Sierra Jumpsuit

When Papercut Patterns released their Geo collection a few months back I didn't know which pattern to buy first! All six are gorgeous, contemporary styles and feature interesting shapes and pattern cutting. I'd already planned what handmade additions I wanted to make to my holiday wardrobe, but I couldn't resist adding a couple of these to to queue. First up the Sierra Jumpsuit which I made the short version of but can also be made with full length trousers.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

I wanted to use a solid colour so the lovely design of the jumpsuit would be shown off and was instantly drawn to this fresh and vibrant leaf green linen/rayon chambray from The Fabric Store. The rayon in the blend gives it a slightly softer drape and smoother hand than their regular linens and the weave is slightly tighter and finer. I could not be happier with my choice to pair it with this pattern. Although you might think a fabric with a bit of weight and structure best for a jumpsuit something fairly fine is better suited to this as the bodice wants to wrap softly around the curves of the body and you don't want too much bulk around the waist.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

Whilst thinking about the weight of fabrics it is important to consider this with the lining too. I almost self lined the front bodice pieces but noticed that the pattern suggested a voile which is super lightweight. This is absolutely the right suggestion to reduce bulk and keep a soft feel across the front despite there being two layers of main fabric and two layers of lining at points. The back has an interfaced facing in the main fabric as you want a little more structure here to balance things out. In the interest of using up my stash I chose some white cotton lawn for lining the front bodice pieces which worked out great in terms of weight but on reflection it would have been better if I had used a matching green. Unless I tie the front very carefully white lining wants to peek out at the top and bottom of the wrap where the fabric folds into the tie.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

The bias binding used to finish the raw edge of the facing and front lining is a lovely touch if you enjoy beautiful insides. I considered making matching out of the left over chambray but then remembered this fun floral bias I've had in my stash for years! I only had about 1.5m for it and it has never found the right project until now. It makes me really happy every time I put it on.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

I thoroughly enjoyed this project and found myself completely absorbed in it as the design is unique and the construction method wasn't one I could second guess. I had to follow all the instructions carefully to make it work (rather than going off piste with my own preferred methods as I often do nowadays) and I really enjoyed the challenge of trying something completely new. This is something I have noticed before with Papercut Patterns and really like. They push the boundaries and their patterns often involve interesting and unusual cutting and construction.

I really liked the pocket construction. They are not put together quite like a regular side seam pocket and sit slightly in front of the seam rather than in it. I much prefer how these wear in a trouser as this construction makes the pocket bags fall to the front where thy should be. The in seam method is great for a skirt but I've noticed on my tartan Ailakki Trousers the pocket bags often go for a walk and things start to look misshapen despite bar tacks to keep things in place.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

I'm very pleased with my invisible zip and how everything matches up smoothly. The other side seam isn't quite so satisfying as I feel like the finishing around the opening in the side seam for the tie is a little messy inside. It looks great from the outside but where you have to clip the seam allowances to get everything to lay flat you end up with some messy edges and there are quite a lot of seam allowances intersecting in one area. Something I'll give some thought to next time as I'd love to make a full length version of this.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

The last couple of times I've used a Papercut pattern I've gone for a PDF download but this time I treated myself to a print copy in their Black Friday sale. It is so worth the extra expense for the beautiful packaging which includes illustrated instructions printed on to the pattern sheets in a little booklet for you to assemble yourself. The layout of their instructions mean the explanation of each step is fairly brief but I find the process broken down into small enough steps that it doesn't get confusing. If you are beginner used to indie patterns which take you step by step through inserting the zip including tips and tricks don't expect that here. I definitely don't think a pattern company should be required to do that and I think the Papercut instructions are thorough and plentiful.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

I cut the size XS and graded out to a size S at the hip. To be honest Papercut sizing doesn't particularly suit me, I fall across numerous sizes and I should have remembered that I'd probably have to do a bit of work to get the fit spot on. I sewed this up straight out of the envelope and the fit isn't fantastic but luckily because of the wrap bodice and tie around the waist it is quite a forgiving style in this respect. It is definitely wearable as it is but next time I'll probably go down a size at the bust and waist and up a size at the hip. The bodice feels quite roomy, which I think is partly due to it being too long on me. Taking a bit off the shoulder would probably sort out most issues, raising the armhole a little and probably preventing a bit of the gaping along the back neckline too. This is probably something I could go back in and do to this one when I get back to London. The waist isn't so much of a problem because of the tie but to tie it so it feels secure I have to pull it so tight that some of the bodice starts coming through the gap in the side seam. The shorts are definitely just a fraction too snug across the hip so the pockets are pulling open and there are a few drag lines on the upper seat. I should have noticed when looking at the measurements (as finished measurements are handily included) that there is quite a small amount of ease included in this area compared to a lot of other pattern companies.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Sierra Jumpsuit in Leaf Green Linen Rayon Chambray from The Fabric Store

The fit is fairly relaxed but still cut to be flattering resulting in a comfortable outfit that due to the unique design feels really trendy and stylish. I love a practical yet chic jumpsuit and want to fill my wardrobe with them! I can see me getting a lot of wear out of this one throughout London summers when I'm running around town in 30 degree but still have to turn up to a meeting looking presentable. 

9 comments:

  1. You look gorgeous! I envisioned several of these as my summer wardrobe (when not at work that is) so appreciate your timely review as I have the pattern prepped and am ready to start cutting. I had planned to ignore their pocket instructions but I've had similar challenges you've noted on pockets (which usually leads to be cutting them out) so am excited now to give theirs a go. I may have to make a pair with trousers to wear with a turtleneck since we're in the heart of winter here in Michigan USA.

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    1. Thank you very much! I'm really delighted with how this turned out and got lots of compliments on it while I was on holiday!
      I hope you enjoyed making yours and have been getting a lot of wear out of it!
      How did you find the pockets? I'm really happy with these now they've had some wear and think I'll be using this method for trouser pockets from now on!

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  2. Very cute. You did a great job on the fit. That fabric looks really comfortable.

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    1. Thanks very much! I feel like the fit could still use a little tweaking but it is good to know it doesn't look like it! Thankfully the wrap bodice is quite forgiving!

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  3. This looks gorgeous! I love the tie detail and using a plain fabric shows it off beautifully.

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    1. Thank you! I'm a big fan of plain fabrics in combination with patterns with interesting design details! Much easier to wear

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  4. Love this version! I'm busy sewing this up at the moment and wondering if the zip is even necessary?

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    1. It seems to be such a popular pattern! I hope you've enjoyed making it.
      Yes the zip is necessary to get the jumpsuit on over the hips

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  5. We are having difficulty with steps 10 (side seams. Do we neaten these single layer ?), step 16, I don't understand at all and step 17. Is it possible for you to explain how you did these ? Thank you so much :)

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I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment letting me know what you thought about this post/make! Any hints or tips to improve my sewing are always much appreciated too!