Monday, 1 April 2019

Printed Rayon Crepe Roscoe Blouse

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

I've lost my motivation for sewing and blogging since I returned from my travels. Initially partly because of jet lag and a post holiday cold and then partly because of being so busy with work. Usually when I'm so busy I'll find 30 minutes here and there to work on something but what I really needed to kickstart my sewjo again was a good chunk of sewing time. I finally managed to carve out a few hours last weekend after a little cutting time one evening in the week and luckily had picked just the project to get my creative juices flowing again.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

This Roscoe Blouse from True Bias was an absolute dream to sew. It caused me no trouble but has some interesting little details which were nice to get absorbed in. I even enjoyed my least favourite sewing task (gathering), of which this blouse has plenty! It feels like it comes together really quickly because of the lovely raglan sleeves, which are always much quicker than setting in a traditional sleeve.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store
Breeze showing off the volume and movement of the top!

This is the blouse version of the pattern, which also has a tunic and midi length. I'm planning a midi length version next which I think I'll wear belted. I love Kelli's sense of style and find it difficult to resist many of her patterns. I don't know why it has taken me so long to sew this one when it so perfectly nails that cross between easy to wear bohemian and sleek contemporary style. I cut the size 4 (which matches my bust and waist size for reference) and it does feel quite voluminous on my fairly petite frame and I'm wondering if I would have benefitted from sizing down or perhaps shortened it a little to balance out the proportions better. But I am really enjoying the slightly longer length paired with skinny jeans. It is equally as great tucked into my favourite high waisted trousers, my first pair of Megan Nielsen Flint Pants which are easily the most worn handmade garment in my wardrobe.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

The finishing techniques are well thought out and I really liked the way the neckline slit is cleaning faced to begin with and then the ties are added within the binding. This neckline slit is actually the only thing I might change on my next version as it feels quite deep on me and can be a little exposing as it moves around! I feel like I need to tie the the bow up tight to close the slit whereas I'd quite like to leave it loose or open. I can't see that anyone else has been plagued by a similar issue so it could be  because I'm quite short in the body, particularly the upper chest so next time I'll shorten the slit by an inch or so for modesty.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

The sleeve length and width of cuff is great. They have enough drama but yet don't get in the way as they finish mid forearm and the opening is big enough to push up above the elbow if needs be. I love the sleeves on my Dove Blouse but sometimes they are not the most practical! They have a habit of turning off my touch sensitive electric hob while I'm stirring a pot!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

I've never been a huge fan of stitching in the ditch which is how the bound edge of the neckline and cuffs are finished so I opted to edge-stitch my binding. I was in the mood for not pushing myself too hard and using techniques I knew I could get to turn out well! I think this still looks really neat and tidy and am pleased with the results, inside and out. If I was making myself a luxury version of this top in a delicate silk I'd definitely turn to Kelli's suggestion in the instructions to hand stitch these areas.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

My fabric is from The Fabric Store who have a gorgeous collection of viscose/rayon prints and colours at the moment. I was originally going to use this mustard part diamond print for this project. Unfortunately there wasn't enough of it left when I placed my order but I actually think this worked out for the best. While the mustard would have been glorious and very seventies (Debbie made an amazing two piece cami and skirt set out of it) I'd have to be in the right mood to wear such a dramatic bold blouse and I think this slightly more subtle print is more 'me' and be worn on a more regular basis. I was drawn to this five dot rayon crepe as my back up choice because of the unique block printed style. Each motif has a slightly uneven density of print which gives a hand painted look to the fabric but it is in fact screen printed. The navy is nice and rich and the motifs just the right size for garment sewing. I like that the colours are quite neutral and easy to wear; the finished top works so well with many other garments in my wardrobe and is going to be easy to style year round.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

I ordered 2 metres as the fabric requirements in the pattern suggested I would need it but I could have got away with less of a fabric this wide. I probably could have squeezed it out of 1m50 but would get 1m 70cm to be on the safe side. A lightweight viscose/rayon is perfect for this pattern because it is quite diaphanous and moves beautifully. The volume of this style requires a lightweight fabric with drape and movement. The gathering will look thick and puffy in anything too substantial and you want the fabric to flow around the body rather than stick out in a boxy fashion.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

I didn't realise until I had finished this how much I needed tops like this in my wardrobe. Tops which can be both dressy or casual depending on how you style them or which worked tucked into high waisted trousers and skirts or loose over a slimmer leg. I love it. I can see a summer of shorts, skirts and boho blouses coming right up!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Rayon Print from The Fabric Store

3 comments:

  1. I’m generally not a fan of hugely boofy clothes, but this has such a beautiful painterly impression on you, it looks great.

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  2. Looks really cute on you. Love that fabric. Great job.

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  3. The Roscoe is on my short list too... really have to make one this spring! I love yours!

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