January Indie Pattern Update!

I can't believe that its already time for the first of these posts for 2017. And boy is it a whopper for you. I hope you put the kettle on before you sat down and started on this one as its going to take a while! Not only has there been a huge amount going on within the independent pattern design community there have been some truly beautiful releases this month. Let's hope that this is a sign of things to come for the rest of the year. Enjoy!

New Patterns

• This month's releases with Seamwork Magazine from Colette were the Jane Crew Neck T-Shirt (a real classic) and Margo Pencil Skirt which features on trend side slits.
• Style Arc's first wave of January releases were all about tops. The patterns included the Fran Knit Top, Isabella Top, Juliet Woven Shirt and Annika Top. Later in the month they also releases the Alissa Knit Dress which features a lovely draped swag to the skirt and the Natasha Woven Pants which might be just what I need to make some cropped culottes. 
• Boho Banjo released the A Couple of Loopholes pattern. So in keeping with the unique style of the rest of her designs this is a draped dress with two clever tubes or holes at the waistline creating a sculptural effect. I'm so intrigued by the construction of this one!
• Itch to Stitch released the Paro Cardigan. Its a lovely thigh length flowing style which is super flattering because of the fitted waist, the flare being created by small pleats.
• Jenny from Cashmerette launched the Harrison Shirtdress pattern which is actually a development of her popular Harrison Shirt as there were so many requests for a similar shirtdress. I can see this being a hugely popular classic for plus sized ladies.
• New from Wear Lemonade is the Simona Blouse. I love that combination of little collar and optional pussy bow; a style I might have to try out this season.
• Wardrobe By Me had a busy month releasing not only the Daisy Dropped Shoulder Blouse for curvy sizes and the men's Bram Raglan T-Shirt but also the Aster Jersey Dress; I love the boat necked variation of this but it comes with two heights of turtleneck too.
• Sarah from OhhhLulu Lingerie released the Mina Garter Belt pattern and also the Cora Elastic Strap Garter Belt which is a tutorial on how to make five styles of garter out of elastic. If you fancy giving it a try the v shaped lace style is actually free!
• Paddleboat Studio released the Mitchell Dress and Jumpsuit. Its a wrap style, with two wide side panels which wrap to the front. I particularly like this on the jumpsuit and the wide cropped leg look.
• The Sybil Robe is the latest pattern from Greenstyle Creations. It looks to be a very versatile pattern which can be used to make a really cute robe or actually even dresses in the wrap style. I love being able to see all the tester versions on the listing.
• There were three new patterns from Opian Patterns in January; the Makalu Dress and Top (which looks great styled with a big necklace), Ortles Snood and Surimani Turban. They're all suited to beginners and I love the idea of making your own accessories too!
• Chalk and Notch released the Women's Waterfall Raglan pattern. Its a relaxed knit top or dress with a gathered peplum.
• Kommatia Patterns added a couple of new patterns to their growing collection of youthful and on trend styles. January's additions included a midi length jersey dress and the Pinafore Skirt with zip pockets; I love the shape of the back bib on this.
• Style Sew Me released the Janelle Skirt; a faux wrap, below knee style with a dramatic thigh high split! I like it sewn in a more casual fabric like the denim which looks great on the model.
• The new release from Orange Lingerie has got me wishing I had some lingerie sewing experience under my belt already. The Esplanade Bra is a longline strapless style and I have a newfound motivation to work up to sewing something that beautiful! 
• For those of you who might be interested in a bit of bag sewing Noodlehead have just released the Explorer Tote. It has lots of pockets (which is my favourite thing in a bag) yet still maintains a clean look with flap top, two sizes and optional long detachable strap.
• Hot Patterns released the HP1213 Deco Vibe Gatsby Cardigan-Jacket and Gilet. Designed for stable knits its a semi fitted wrap style packed with lovely design details including a two piece sleeve and optional faux fur collar.
• I love it when patterns have a good number of variations or ways to make them your own and the new Designer Stitch Bridget Top excels at that with seven different statement sleeves. They can be bought in sets of long or short sleeves.
• Decades of Style have just launched a trio of stunning 1920s inspired patterns; the 2005 Baltimore Dress, 2006 Sugar Coat and 2007 Isabella Dress. I am absolutely mesmerised by the way the coat moves; described as a fabric petal 'fringe' all those half circles make for a stunning effect. 
• New from Hey June Handmade is the Tallinn Sweater. It features an asymmetrical cross over front with either a cowl or turtleneck. I love the front edge trimmed with leather on the pattern sample.
• Sew Over It released their first PDF pattern of the year. The Nancy Dress is a 1960s inspired swing dress with three quarter length sleeves and lovely single button fastening at the nape of the neck. I want to live in dresses like this and will admit to already having fabric bought and pre-washed for my first one!
• Closet Case Files launched the Ebony T-Shirt & Dress Pattern. Its a basic knit top and dress with a swingy, fluid shape which would be ideally suited to using some gorgeous viscose and bamboo jerseys for!
• The Slouchy Beanie is the new Blank Slate Patterns design that can work for anyone from baby to fully grown men! I made a couple of beanie hats on new years day and they are such satisfying project when you're not in the mood to get into anything too complex or lengthy.
• See Kate Sew released her first pattern in a while that has been designed for women. The Rachel Babydoll Top/Tunic/Dress is gathered onto a flat yoke and features ruffled bell sleeves.
• One of the last releases of the month was the Wanted T-Shirt from Vanessa Pouzet. To be honest I would have thought there was nothing more a t-shirt pattern could offer as there are such a plethora of knit top patterns available online but this is a stunner that has absolutely earned a place on my wish list. That deep square neckline is super sexy. Currently only available in French.

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• Jennifer Lauren Handmade released an expansion pack to turn her Gable Top pattern into a dress. The pack includes new bodice, skirt and pocket pattern pieces to add a gathered or pleated skirt onto the close fitting knit top.
• Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic updated their Bronx Dress pattern. There are new cowl neck and elbow length sleeve options.

Sew-Alongs

• Over the course of the last month Jennifer Lauren posted a tutorial series for her Auden Cardigan pattern, thoroughly covering common fitting adjustments for this men's garment.
• Sarah from OhhhLulu has been running a fantastic sew-long over on her blog for sewing a three piece lingerie set. It's packed with tips on handling all those unusual lingerie components like elastics and lace and is set to round up in time for Valentine's Day.
• Jenny from Cashmerette posted about adding sleeves to the Harrison Shirtdress. Its not quite as straightforward as using the sleeves from the shirt pattern as the dress has been drafted with a smaller sleeveless armhole but the post guides you through how to make that work.
• To accompany their new trio of patterns Decades of Style have just started a sew-along for the Baltimore Dress. All those classic 1902s diagonal seam lines mean a lot of working on the bias so I'm sure all tips will be appreciated!  

Upcoming!

• The first release of the year from Tilly and the Buttons is named Zadie and should be with us in the next week.
• Tessuti also have a pattern on the way this week in the form of the Iris Dress. All I could tell from the Instagram sneak peak was that there's a maxi length and potential colour blocking involved!
• The next pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade will be the Juniper Cardigan. Its currently being tested.
• Pearl Red Moon over at Boho Banjo patterns has the Two Pegs Dress coming soon. Its a shift dress with squared or rounded colour blocked panels down one side and a pegged hem.
• Megan Nielsen also has a new pattern in the works called Rowan. I've loved her last two so can't wait to see this one!
• The next release from new pattern company Trend Patterns will be the first in their basics range including a pleat front trouser and top with frilled hem.
• There's a new underwired bra pattern coming from Cloth Habit soon. After the success of there Watson Bra I've got high hopes for this one and really need to get my act together and get some lingerie sewing supplies together!
• Waffle Patterns are working on a pattern for slim tapered pants with various pocket options.
• In The Folds is currently testing their next pattern; the Collins Top. It looks like next month is going to a be a big one for pattern releases too doesn't it!
• Lisa from Sew Over It gave us a fab little look at what the coming year might hold for the company on her vlog. We should be seeing their Eve Dress, Elsie Dress and 1940s Wrap Dress released as paper patterns throughout the year!
• Jenni Smith will be releasing her very first pattern in March. The Hepworth Apron is currently being taught as a class in her studio and will be available as both a PDF and paper pattern.

Other Exciting News

• Sally from Capital Chic Patterns launched a new feature on her website which I'm absolutely in love with! Called the Outfit Designer it offers up templates of all the Capital Chic patterns so you can play around with colour and even upload an image of the fabric print you are thinking of using. You can change hair style, colour and skin colour and even play around with colour blocking too!
• The Moneta Party is running until February 22nd on Instagram. Celebrating sewing with knits and in particular the Colette Moneta Dress pattern, you can win prizes for making and posting your own version!
• Sew Over It launched their PDF Club. As they are planning to release lots of PDF designs this year you can now get membership to the club which offers you early access to each new design plus 10% off. At £5 for the year including a free choice of pattern when you sign up you can't go wrong. They also have a new 'Intro to Coats' online class coming next month.
• Heather Lou from Closet Case Files launched a new online workshop called 'Sew Your Dream Jeans'. I adore both pairs of jeans I've made so far (the Ginger and Mia patterns) but I do feel like I've started on a whole new long winded adventure of making my perfect pair! Perhaps this course will help. The workshop officially launches on February 20th but is on pre-sale at 15% off now.
• The Maker's Atelier is releasing a book! Called The Essential Collection it will be released on February 9th. I'm a huge fan of their simple, well cut silhouettes so can't wait to see what patterns are included.
• In House Patterns is soon to launch the next in their line of courses on how to draft your own blocks. This one focuses on making your own Custom Stretch Knit Bodice.

Phew! That's a lot to take in and I'm sure both my sewing queue and pattern wish list have doubled in length since I started writing it! As always feel free to leave any news I may have missed in the comments below and I'll leave you with a handful of the indie sewing projects that have caught my eye in the online sewing community over the last month.

• There were Toaster Sweaters popping up all over the place in January but I think my favourite of the lots was Sara's. She combined elements of the two variations and used a lightweight knit resulting in a totally different look.
• Heather Lou's dreamy Liberty print Bolyston Bra has reignited my desire to get on with my own lingerie making. Why buy shop bought bras when you can make such beautiful ones that fit right?!
• London has been going through a bit of a cold snap and Sonja's Plaid Farrow Dress is what I want to be living in right now! Amazing pattern matching (you can't even see those pockets!) and it suits her down to the ground.
• Helen's version of the Style Arc Blaire Shirtdress is delicious! I love the fabric that she chose and the way she used the direction of those stripes to their absolutely best advantage.
• The combination of vivid floral print and the drama of the off the shoulder ruffle on MJ's Mama Daphne top is stunning. She definitely made some excellent choices with this one!

Leopard Brocade V1247 Skirt

I had such success using the berry coloured triple crepe from Remnant Kings to make my Ailakki Jumpsuit last year that when Hazel contacted me to see if I'd be interested in trying out another of their fabrics I said yes please! A quick browse of the site and this amazing leopard brocade (actually ex-River Island stock) had jumped out at me. The good news for you guys is that there's currently a 20% off store wide sale running right now! Get on it quick if you're hankering for a piece though as the sale is to make way for the new spring collection.

I was really intrigued by this fabric as it looked to have some depth and interest which I couldn't quite work out online. I wasn't disappointed when it arrived. Its quite thick and loosely woven which gives it a wonderfully unusual crinkled texture. In fact it crinkles right up in the wash and needs a good press to flatten and stretch it out into shape again! That somehow sounds like a negative thing but I love it! To make it even more exciting the black of the leopard spots has a texture like chenille. The different colours are different textures and thicknesses of yarn all woven together to create the pattern of leopard spots.

I had been thinking about making a third Rosari skirt inspired by one I'd seen on the high street (I love that pattern and honestly don't think my wardrobe could ever have too many!). However, once the fabric arrived I decided it would be better suited to Vogue 1247 which is another beloved skirt pattern of mine after making a version from this amazing embroidered raw silk a while back. The Rosari has a beautiful a-line shape which I think best suits a fabric which is going to accentuate that with a little bit of a kick. This brocade has a wonderful softness to it which really moulds to the shape of the body so I thought the cut of the 1247 would make better use of it. My favourite feature of the Vogue skirt are those deep pockets concealed in the seam running across the front and something about the slouchy texture of the brocade really works for these.

I fitted the pattern the same way as I did last time I made it; using a larger seam allowance down the sides as my version of the pattern only has the size 12 and up when I ideally need the 10. The pocket sizes and placement don't change with the size so that method works out just fine. It also means I can get the fit spot on as the side seams are one of the last steps. I needed just a metre of fabric and had plenty to spare. The panelled style of the skirt means that all the pattern pieces are fairly small.

Its a nice and challenging pattern with lots of accurate sewing required to match up all those seams and get the binding looking nice and even. The construction method and instructions are fab though so no one should find it head-scratchingly difficult. I find this pattern so satisfying to make as it ends up almost more beautiful inside than out! Theres also something really lovely about the fact that you can't rush making this one. You need to go slowly and carefully and get lost in the process of making which I love. I am particularly delighted with how neat my invisible zip turned out!

You may have noticed that as I did first time around I omitted the flap over of the waistband at the centre back. I've always found it tricky to get these spot on neat and tidy and prefer the clean finish of running the zip right up through the waistband. Perhaps I should put some effort into perfecting the other technique though! Theres a bit of hand stitching involved to get those insides looking as pretty as possible; both the waistband edge and hem are hand stitched down. I used as small a hem as I could manage (1/2") as this skirt does come up pretty short!! I forgot that I used the raw edge of the silk to create the hem on my last one and that gave me that extra little bit of length. I'm 5ft 3" so if you're taller you might want to consider adding a bit of length.

The fabric was pretty great to work with as it responded so well to steam, which being 100% polyester I was surprised about. I know some people shy away from poly fabrics as they have a reputation for being poor quality and not so nice to work with or wear, but there is a huge variety of them available which vary wildly in quality and type so don't tar them all with the same brush just yet! This particular one feels soft and gorgeous, both to handle and wear and I am glad I didn't pass up on it because of the fibre content. I'd recommend swatching polyester fabrics before purchase so you can give them a good feel. You might be surprised at some of the wonderful qualities they can have.

The lovely spongy, loose weave did mean that the fabric frayed EVERYWHERE in big chunks when cut so it was great that the pattern asks for all the seam allowances to be bound so I could keep this under control! Those chunky bits of chenille were falling out all over the place. I made my own binding from some cotton sateen in my stash. Last time I chickened out and used shop bought bias as the pattern requires so much but I bit the bullet this time as I thought the colours were so great together. Theres a richness in both the maroon and the rusty brown flecks in the leopard. I love that as many edges are bound as possible so that lovely contrasting colour runs throughout.

The brocade is a great weight for this skirt as something with less body wouldn't support the shape but you can't use anything too thick as there are a lot of intersecting seams which are made more bulky but the binding finish. It is a great choice for projects requiring a bottom weight fabric and could also work well for jackets but I'd say if you want to make something with real structure you'd need to underline it with something to give it a bit of crisp support as the nature of the weave makes this quite malleable.

I sort of surprised myself with this fabric choice as the leopard is quite bold for me but there's something subtle about the colour way and scale that makes me understand why some people class leopard print as a neutral (I'm looking at you Nicole!). I am so delighted with my decision and how I ended up using it. Its one of the most interesting fabrics I have come across in online fabric stores; the kind of thing that you might uncover in the depths of one of the stores on Goldhawk Road and know you've hit on a gem.  It can be so difficult to get hold of interesting garment appropriate fabrics sometimes, the kind of thing that RTW clothes are made of but Remnant Kings are really good at stocking this sort of thing.

Pattern Testing: Mia Jeans from Sew Over It

So it has taken a silly amount of time for me to get around to posting these jeans. But I'm actually really pleased I've left it so long as my opinion on them has changed with wear! These are the Mia Jeans from the Sew Over It My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break ebook which Lisa asked me to test at the end of the summer. I made these soon after my first pair of Ginger Jeans (which had it's benefits as the sew-along for the Gingers is so thorough I picked up lots of tips to help with these) and if I'm completely honest I didn't like them as much as the Gingers at first. But I've been surprised to find over the last couple of months that these are the jeans I've been reaching for without thinking and wearing day in day out. They are so comfortable I forget I'm wearing them. They've actually featured in a couple of blog posts already as they look great with so many of my favourite tops!

The Mia Jeans are a classic pair of stretch skinny jeans. They're just the style I like; high waist, pretty skinny leg and a slim waistband. One of my first bits of feedback to Lisa after finishing them was that they really reminded me of my favourite pair of RTW Topshop skinny jeans (the Jamie style if you're a Topshop jean fan!). They're not overly complicated or time consuming to make. The fly and the accuracy needed for the topstitching make it a good challenge of a project mixed in with the other four included in the ebook. I was much happier with the placement and size of these pockets than I was on my Gingers and will probably use the pattern piece from this pattern in future. There are no front pockets which I must admit I do miss on both a practical and aesthetic level but that does drastically reduce the time these take to make and the style feels pleasantly quite fifties pin-up without them!

The denim was provided for me for the test and is this indigo blue stretch denim from the Sew Over It online shop. Its quite soft for a denim and being 97% cotton 3% elastane has worn and washed really well. After a couple of wears the recovery isn't as great but it pings right back into shape after a wash. I would definitely use this fabric again as it is a great weight and stretch for this pattern. In comparison to the Gingers these are probably better suited to a stretcher jegging type denim while the Gingers work well with something a bit stiffer and heavier. When it came to the topstitching I went for a more subtle effect this time around using navy Gutermann topstitch thread. The thickness of it means it reads but doesn't ping out as much as a contrasting colour. After using gold for my Gingers I realised all of my RTW jeans used subtle matching topstitching thread and maybe I should have stuck with my personal preference so far!

I apologise if you can't see much of the detail in the pictures by the way; these have proven surprisingly hard to get pictures of. I've taken two sets of photos so far at quite different times of the year so you're getting a bit of both and thats the best its going to get! I do love my dark topstitching but it doesn't help to show up the details in a photo!

I cut the size 10 which matched my measurements and sewed them up with no alterations as they were kind of a wearable muslin so I could give useful tester feedback. Its tricky to do a muslin for these kind of stretch jeans in anything other than the actual fabric you'll use as different fabrics have different stretch percentages which can have quite a drastic effect on the fit from one pair to the next. No two pairs you make will probably ever fit quite the same way but the pattern helpfully enables you to adjust the fit late on in the construction process by leaving a 2.5cm seam allowance at the side seams. You can baste them together to test the fit then use a larger or smaller seam allowance as appropriate. It also recommends not cutting your waistband until you have done this so you can adjust that to match. I sewed mine up with the given 2.5cm (overlocking off the excess as you don't want that bulk in such a close fitting design) and am really delighted with the fit all over. I often have trouble with wrinkles under the bum and behind the knees but there's not much to complain about with these and that front crotch curve looks pretty good too. Kind of miraculous for 'straight from the envelope' jeans!

The only thing I'm not so delighted about with these is that they're not a brilliant example of my best sewing...as you can see from the picture of the fly above. I'm chalking most of this up to being only my second time sewing a lot of these details and my first time working with such a stretchy woven! I will say that despite being broken down into manageable steps with lots of good pictures I didn't get on with the instructions for the fly and I haven't got everything lined up quite as well as on my Gingers. The zip peeps out a little at the top and because I used a proper metal jeans zip (from the little stash I picked up for practically nothing at SIL Thread in the NYC garment district) thats quite noticeable. I'm not all that bothered though as this absolutely happens with the two pairs of RTW Topshop jeans I have too! I definitely achieved a better result than I would have had I not sewn the Gingers just before as I understood what I was trying to do and how the pieces should come together. I very much enjoyed whacking in the jeans button with a hammer but it is slightly nerve racking as you could completely mess up at the final hurdle by getting it in the wrong place!

The pattern does say to interface your waistband piece with stretch interfacing but I used woven as it was all I had to hand. If you want your waistband to be stretchy and super comfortable then you'll need to use a stretch but I quite like the secure snug feeling of a woven waistband and also think this helps things stop stretching out throughout the day. I also think interfacing your fly pieces with a woven wouldn't hurt but its definitely not essential.

It was quite a different experience to working with one of the standard Sew Over It sewing patterns as the whole design of the pattern and book is different; it's very clean and modern. The PDF itself is great as each page prints a slither of the page next to it on the border so its super simple to match up accurately. I really like the layout of the whole city break booklet and the modelled pictures interspersed throughout which are a nice change to traditional pattern instructions. The instructions are super thorough and packed with handy tips throughout. I particularly liked the tip to try using a twin needle for your topstitching rather than trying to keep two separate rows of stitching even but I do wonder how difficult that might be to manage around tight corners or places where you want to pivot rather than stop and start. There are photographs rather than illustrations to guide you, which I personally really like. When it comes to things like sewing a fly being able to see that what you've got in front of you looks just like the picture is very reassuring!

I'm dying to find the time to make another pair or two; a pair in both the navy and charcoal colours of the same denim would do nicely I reckon! I think next time I'd add to the length a little to wear with ankle boots and trainers. I love the ankle skimming, cropped look in the summer but am not a fan of those cold ankles in the winter! I'd probably also skinny up the ankles a little more for this purpose as that is the one main difference in fit between these and the RTW jeans I'd been wearing day in day out up until the point I finished these. A huge success all round.
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Merino and Boiled Wool Toaster Sweaters

My first completed project post of 2017 is actually one of my favourite pattern discoveries of last year. I didn't include these sweaters in my round up of 2016 as I hadn't shared them with you guys yet but if I had they definitely would have won a slot in the top 5! These tops are both made using the Sweater #2 variation of the Toaster Sweater pattern from Sew House Seven. It has become such a staple in my winter wardrobe and was really enjoyable to make too. The style is right up my alley with simple lines and interesting details.

I've waxed lyrical about my love for merino wool knits when I shared my Neenah Dress a couple moths ago and I used another piece of my prized stash from The Fabric Store for my first version of this top. This is a sweat-shirting rather than their standard jersey knit and I want to make everything in it now. Its loop backed and spongy and warm but still quite fine and lightweight. Unfortunately it seems the one I ordered is no longer stocked online as all I could find was this merino/polyester blend and I'm sure mine is 100% wool. I cut the size small and the only change I made was to tale 1/2" off the sleeve length and use a 1" turn up for the hem. Its snuggly and comfortable with the perfect amount of ease not to feel swamped in. Perfect to layer over pretty tops and underneath coats.

The teal version is made with this petrol boiled wool which Dragonfly Fabrics kindly offered me a chance to review. They have a huge selection of beautiful rich colours and team there were so helpful sending me samples of a variety so I could get just what I wanted. Its top quality stuff with a lovely thickness and body to it. They do now stock another slightly finer boiled wool made with viscose which I have seen a sample of and it has the most beautiful drape. I'm very tempted to make another sweater in that! I did almost have a total disaster with this one before I even got started. My merino had been coming up so well with a wash in the machine that I sort of mindlessly threw this in on a cold wool wash...and it came out smaller than it went in! I didn't notice at first as the shrinkage doesn't really affect the qualities of the fabric as boiled wool is felted up already. When I came to lay out my pattern pieces I didn't have quite enough though! I spent some serious time doing a pattern piece jigsaw puzzle and eventually worked out that I had enough if I made the sleeves shorter. A very happy accident as I absolutely adore the three quarter length sleeves on this now! I think it works really well with the more dramatic shape. This baby is going to be hand-washed from now on and I think I'll be sticking to non washable projects with boiled wool in future. It definitely hasn't put me off boiled wool though as sewing with with was such an enjoyable experience. I've just ordered some more in a beautiful mottled grey to make my mum a coat to go with her wedding outfit!

By the way the skirt in the pictures is my second Rosari Skirt from Pauline Alice. I used a fairly heavy black denim from Mood Fabrics for it and love the way that emphasises the A-line shape. Its exactly the same view as my first one but I think I'll still post about it soon as I had quite the adventure with the snaps!

I have worn the black version pretty much day in, day out since I finished it. I could not be happier with my decision to use some of my precious merino knit for it and am genuinely gutted when it has to go in the wash! I think the softer drape of the fabric plus the neutral colour makes it more versatile day to day and something about it feels so vey much more me than a chunky, more structured jumper. Having said that I am quite taken with the sculptural effect that the body of the boiled wool gives the second version and adore the colour. There's proof right here of how dramatically fabric choice can change a pattern!

My absolute favourite part of this pattern is the split side seams and the mitred corners at the hem. The method and instructions for this are fantastic and I am so delighted with the finish I have achieved. I used a twin needle for the hem on both versions although you could even get away with a normal straight stitch as the relaxed fit means this area doesn't need to stretch. Concentrating on my aim to sew slower and more carefully I marked the stitching line with tailors chalk so I knew exactly where to turn and this really paid off. I stopped and started again at each corner as you can't pivot with a twin needle and am so pleased with my crisp little corners!

The instructions are really thorough and clear with great illustrations. Its a really speedy and satisfying sew. Even with finishing the split hem it takes no longer than making a basic t-shirt but you end up with a much more interesting garment. The only thing I did differently to the instructions was to use and narrow zig zag stitch for construction and then my overlocker to give a professional looking finish to the seams, which is my preferred method for sewing knits. The pattern recommend using a double stitch which I have never tried. This involves sewing a straight stitch along the seam line and then a zig zag 1/4" away from it. The instructions say that the zig zag allows for some stretch but surely the straight stitch negates that? I guess for this relaxed style stretch isn't essential along the seams so that works out ok? Anyone else had any experience with this technique?

I've not done much stitching in the ditch on the machine before (I love a bit of hand stitching so tend to plump for that option where possible) so found stitching into the shoulder seam to secure the neckline facing down a little tricky. I decided it was easiest to do this from the right side and then if things were a little off inside it didn't matter so much! I did a much better job the second time around so practice must make perfect in this case.

There's something so chic about the shape of the neckline; its like a subtle version of a turtleneck which feels really elegant on. I actually doubted that just securing the facing at the shoulder seams would keep things sitting securely and was tempted to hand-stitch the edge down inside. It actually sits beautifully when on and the folded top edge of the neckline just needs a good press into place when it comes out of the wash. I used tailors tacks in a garish coloured thread to mark the neckline fold and stitching point for the hem vent originally. I love a tailors tack for when you want to be super accurate!

I made the other version of this pattern (they are available to purchase individually or as a combined pattern which I think is great) in an incredible striped boiled wool from Fabric Godmother (currently on sale!) to review for an article in Sew Now magazine. Here's a quick pic of that one! Although this variation was the style that initially appealed to me I'm not as much of a fan of this one as I don't like anything too bulky around my neck and I don't think the proportions suit me so well. But I do like that the wide collar sits away from the neck and I loved the slim fit, slightly cropped length and wide hem and cuff bands.

You might have heard about Project #SewMyStyle which Alex from Bluebird Fabrics is running throughout 2017 to raise awareness of the slow fashion movement and encourage people to sew their own wardrobes. There's a different pattern to sew each month and make your own and January is actually Toaster Sweater month so my timing is quite appropriate! I'm looking forward to seeing lots more of these popping up on my Instagram feed at the end of the month...and possibly even in my wardrobe! I'm pleased that I've dabbled in a bit of wool sewing this year as I haven't used it a lot before and my handmade winter wardrobe is reaping the benefits. I've now got a good amount of wool knits and boiled wool under my belt. What else would you recommend giving a try?

A Look Back Over 2016

I so enjoyed spending a couple of hours reading everyone's round ups of 2016 yesterday that I figured it was about time I got around to looking back over my own year. I feel like the last year has been really successful for me in terms of sewing and its made it really difficult for me to pick my favourite projects to share in this post! I have sewn so much (particularly over the second half of the year when I was settled into my new flat and sewing space) but I've also WORN so much handmade too. I've been much better this year at identifying patterns and fabrics which I know I will wear and will work as part of my current wardrobe and I wear something I've sewn most days now without even thinking about it. My handmade garments are definitely the most loved part of my wardrobe!

A fair bit of my sewing (including some of my most worn garments!) hasn't even made it to the blog yet so for the purposes of this little round up I'm just going to include projects I've got pictures of an reviewed. I've definitely felt more inspired to sew than blog this year which is absolutely the way I want it to be but I have at times felt frustrated by the long list of garments I've got waiting to photograph and share. I used to make sure garments were photographed and usually blogged before I wore them but I've found it much more interesting this year to write a review after something has been worn a while and I can accurately assess any problems. The thing that holds me up is taking the photographs as I really don't enjoy that part! Hopefully that is all about to change as my fantastic Uncle gave me a GorillaPod, remote and lenses for my phone which fingers crossed will make the whole process a lot less painful! Just need to get the hang of feeling comfortable in front of the camera now!

It was hard to decide and there are so many more projects that I am incredibly proud of and get a lot of wear out of, but these are my favourite five garments of the year. Other un-blogged highlights which deserve a mention are the Butterick 6385 Coat which I completed just before Christmas and can't wait to share, the Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater pattern which I have been living in recently and the Sew Over It Mia Jeans which were my second pair of jeans after my Gingers and have turned into my more popular choice.

• An easy choice, both my versions of the Sallie Jumpsuit from Closet Case Files. These basically became my uniform in the summer. They are so practical for the physical kind of work I do, kept me cool and comfortable in the heat and also kept me feeling stylish 100% of the time. The longer version has also seen me right through until the winter temperatures kicked in, styled with trainers and a cropped jumper thrown over the top. Nothing is going to stop me making more of these this year!

• It was the year of the jumpsuit for me. I was really excited to make the Ailakki Jumpsuit from Named Clothing but didn't think I'd love it half as much as I did! I couldn't be more pleased with this project which I really took my time over. Its quite a bold style so I half expected it to be one of those projects which gets a once a year wear but its had three outings in the last six months and each time I've felt fantastic. More Named patterns are high on my wish list for 2017; I've absolutely loved them this year.

• My Green Merino Neenah Dress from Seamwork Magazine has been an unexpected hit late on in the year. Its been worn almost a couple of times a week since I whipped it up in November. I have never been a fan of a high neck or a midi length so the success and comfort of this has taken me by surprise! I spent so long agonising over what to use this beautiful merino for and this project is the proof that sometimes a simple style is the best way to showcase a quality fabric.

• With two slots left in the top five this is where decisions got tough! I made my last two choices based on what I've had the most wear out of this year and my Floral Dove Blouse from Megan Nielsen has definitely been a wardrobe star! This top has solved a wardrobe quandary on countless occasions and just feels so very me. The fabric is dreamy and my ideal match for this style; it can feel casual one minute and glamorous the next. A win on all levels.

• I've made two Rosari Skirts from Pauline Alice over the course of the year and I doubt I'm going to stop there! My mustard needlecord version has been worn to death and still looks as good as the day I made it. I've since made a dark denim version which has proved an equally popular part of my wardrobe. As well as being a good style fit for me making these skirts actually taught me a lot and I went on quite the snap-setting journey trying out different tools and having wildly different levels of success!

All of these are contemporary garments with clean lines which suit my lifestyle and I feel like myself in. I can definitely learn from this when planning my sewing for the next year. Making good fabric choices has also been key and the success of all of these projects has largely depended of picking the right drape and weight of fabric. I do love the occasional fun print but it appears solids generally work best in my wardrobe. I've discovered a love for a seventies vibe and wearing strong, rich colours, although I do stray to my old favourite of black a fair bit!

Thinking about the not so successful projects there haven't been all that many total disasters this year. Here's the five projects which were not as successful as I had hoped.

• Its very unlike me to give up on a project before completion, I definitely have a determination to make things work somehow. But I gave up on my By Hand London Sophia Dress once I had installed the zip and realised the fabric choice was all wrong and the remnant I'd thought was such a bargain was actually discoloured and clung in all the wrong places.

• As much as I loved both the Named Kielo Wrap Dress pattern and this Anna Sui rayon print I had to give up on this dress after only a few wears as the fabric started disintegrating along the seam lines. I usually wash all my rayon/viscose on the delicate 30 degree cycle in the machine but I think that proved too much for this delicate crepe and that wasn't apparent after the prewash. I also trimmed down my seam allowances inside the ties quite aggressively which I think exacerbated the problem.

• My floral Colette Laurel Blouse which I made in a beautiful silk crepe from the House of Hackney sample sale was worn a couple of times but was never quite what I had hoped it would be. I was excited about the little bell shaped cuffs but once made they seemed a little bit on the small side and combined with the slim fit of the blouse didn't have the boho vibe I was after. Luckily I nailed it later in the year with the Dove Blouse and the beautiful fabric hasn't gone to waste as I had enough let over to make some pyjamas shorts!

• I've unfortunately not had any wear out of my MIY Collection Brightside Shrug. Shrugs have never been part of my wardrobe but making this has definitely opened me up to trying these out again. I think this would have been a more successful project if I had sized up for a slouchier look. I think a lightweight, drapier fabric in a neutral colour would have made this feel a little more me and it could have been worn a lot over the summer.

• My final choice is a recent project; my Tilly and the Buttons Marigold Trousers. The gabardine fabric is a fantastic match and I've had quite a bit of wear out of them around the house but am yet to find a way to style them that I want to venture out in. I really WANT to like them and quite like the look of them in photos but for some reason the style just doesn't feel like me when I'm wearing them! I'm not going to give up on this type of trouser entirely as I think perhaps a style with a no elasticated waistband and slightly less volume in the seat and crotch might work better. At least I've got one step closer to a pair that suit me in making these!

I've definitely learnt a lot from each of these projects, whether that be fabric choice or interpreting the illustrations and fit information from the pattern envelope correctly. I always think that however disappointed in a finished garment you may be, no sewing project is a waste of time as you learn so much along the way and for me most of the enjoyment is in the process!

One of the things I've been most proud of this year is how much handmade I've packed for holidays and how well planning that has worked for me. I've sewn and packed practical city clothes for NYC, summer clothes and swimwear for the South of France, activewear for Centre Parcs and warm clothes for sub-zero temperatures in Russia! I wrote a post about how I used my capsule handmade wardrobe in France and really enjoyed keeping a track of that. I'm considering writing more of this type of post in the new year as I find reading posts about the life of a handmade garment beyond the initial 'hooray I made this!' post really interesting. 

I'll be writing some more about my sewing plans for 2017 soon but in general my plan is to have more fun! Now I feel like I've really found my handmade style I think its time to get creative within that and play around with fabrics, pattern hacking and adding in trims and interesting details. I'm also taking part in the #2017makenine on Instagram as I really enjoyed it this year. I think choosing nine garments/patterns you'd really like to tackle over the course of the year is a really achievable goal and selecting mine has helped me focus my sewing ambitions for the year. Last year I really wanted to try making my first coat, jeans and bra. The bra has carried on over to this year and I'd also like to improve my trouser fitting, make my first pair of classic pyjamas and work with some more vintage patterns. 

In the coming year I also want to sew slower, take the time to think things through and also go back and perfect my mistakes. I have a lot of handmade filling my wardrobe now so I can take my time and make less but better. Work and life in London can be very demanding on my time and over the last year in particular I've found myself in a constant state of feeling overwhelmed by how much I have to do. I don't want sewing to be a part of that. Whilst I know I'll always have a never ending list of things I want to sew I'm keen for it to stay as a hobby with some spontaneity in it rather than another commitment. Now I've got a more easily accessible sewing space set up I'm tempted to try the 30 minutes a day approach rather than thinking I need a good few hours open to sew. I'll definitely be making as much time as possible for my favourite way to relax in the next year but also want to make more time to read, walk, cook and take care of myself.

My sewing is definitely a positive to take with me from 2016 and I'm looking forward to a very creative year ahead! Thank you all for the inspiration, motivation and guidance. Wishing you all a wonderful 2017!

December Indie Pattern Update!

Well here we are with the final Indie Pattern Update of 2016! I had intended on blogging some of my backlog of completed projects over the festive period but I fell into enjoying a proper break and bit of downtime. I've been indulging in reading, movie-watching, puzzling, board-gaming with the family and other non sewing related activities and I must admit it has been nice to switch off for a little while. But now I'm back and raring to go with sewing projects for the year ahead and my latest projects will be filling your feed in January instead. I always find everyone's year round up posts really inspiring and the New Year is a great opportunity to make plans so to kick start yours here's all the new releases and news from the Indie Pattern world in December.

New Pattern Companies

• Sew It With Love launched their first sewing pattern this month; the Delia Top. Its a simple semi-fitted raglan knit top with the option to add a small peplum to the hem. It looks great made up in the striped jersey they've used for one of the samples.
• Trend Patterns also launched this month with an exciting range of four patterns including a cape, bomber jacket, dress with asymmetric hem and oversized sleeve top. Owner Lucy has put her creative pattern cutting experience in the fashion industry to good use to give us really unique styles. There is 25% off until Tuesday 3rd January.
• Thanks to Francesca, who just let me know in the comments about the existence of Hana Patterns who create clean and modern minimalist designs. Their first collection consists of three patterns and I like the look of the Yono Convertible Overalls in particular!

New Patterns

• Style Arc released the Bobbi Bomber Jacket which comes in a bundle with a free pattern for a Baseball Cap (individually $18 and $10). Also released in December was the Josie Hoodie, Imogen Knit Skirt and gorgeous Rosemary Blouse with twisted neckline detail.
• The two patterns released with this month's Seamwork Magazine are the Willie Tank Dress which has on-trend tiered ruffles and the Ida Knit Dress which is a classic figure hugging style with a boat neckline. 
• A few pattern companies gave us a Christmas treat with new free patterns available to download. The first of which is Straight Stitch Designs with the Bell Town Vest which is designed to be made in faux fur.
• Also free is the new Boho Ruffle Blouse from See Kate Sew. This seventies inspired design has a deep gathered peplum and cuffs and a ruffled feature across the bust.
• Lisa from The Avid Seamstress launched the adult version of her Raglan Top & Dress pattern after much clamouring after a grown up size of her children's dress. It has a lovely swingy shape and two pocket and sleeve length options to choose from.
• Ready To Sew released the Jane Shirt a really original design which I'd love to sew up just to figure out the constriction! It has a twisted front, no side seams and lovely little round collar.
• New from Di Nuvole Di Cuori is the Olivia Dress. Its a panelled knit dress with horizontal hip pockets creating interesting opportunities for colour blocking. 
• Fehr Trade's latest activewear pattern is the Knot-Maste Yoga Set. Melissa always finds away to make sportswear designs exciting with really interesting constriction details. This time around its the semi open back of the top which is tied at the waist and the little twisted knot details at the cuffs and hems.
• Hot Patterns released two new patterns this month; the HP1211 Weekender Swingy Sweatshirt and the HP1212 Fast & Fabulous Princess-Seamed Trackpants. I love the boho feel of the sweatshirt with those wide sleeves and neckline and would never have thought to try making the style of the dress variation in a stretch fabric. I'm intrigued!
• I appear to be all about the high necklines and turtle necks this winter and Wardrobe by Me has just released a cracking classic in the form of their Trudy Turtleneck Blouse. A straightforward sew in knits with two collar heights and 5 sleeve lengths to choose from.
• Schnittchen released the the Amy Parka; I love the oversized shape, longer length and deep pockets. Their second pattern release for the month is the Betty Top which is also available in plus sizes 48-56. It has big dropped shoulders which look great sewn up in neoprene or scuba.
• New from Wear Lemonade in December was the Thelma Cape. I love so many of their designs but am yet to try a pattern out; I think I need to make that one of my resolutions for 2017! The ideal opportunity to do just that may have presented itself in the form of their Christmas freebie PDF pattern for some beautiful classic Pyjamas from Princess Tam Tam! Get me to a fabric store!
• I absolutely love the style of the new Lazo Trousers from Thread Theory; their second womenswear pattern. Its not a style I would usually be drawn to, nor am I sure they would look great on me but I think its good to try new shapes once in a while! 
• So Zo... released her Dolores Maternity Dress pattern which is adapted from her popular Dolores Batwing Top. Specifically created to be worn during the third trimester of pregnancy it still has the easy to wear batwing shape and two sleeve options. 
• Lingerie sewing is topping my list of sewing goals for 2017 and Ohhh Lulu continues to tempt me with her new releases. The Ultimate Lace Thong & Panties and Claudia Panties patterns might be the ideal way for me to dip my toe in and get to grip with finer fabrics, lace and elastics. 
• Til The Sun Goes Down released the Ritz Pleat Dress; a classic 1930s design with a bias cut skirt and beautiful bodice with pleats that drape from the shoulder. I've long been an admirer of their vintage inspired prints and authentic vintage fabrics and this design is ideal to showcase a real beauty.
• I've been having a think about projects I could use up some of my smaller scraps for. I can never bear to throw away any amount of a beautiful fabric and seem to have amassed quite a collection over the last year. The new free Kitty Sleep Mask pattern from Ohhh Lulu could be a great stash buster for my precious silks.
• In The Folds released their third free pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine. The Beach Coverup is a simple summer kaftan with split high low hem and waist ties. 
• The final free pattern offering of the month was the Harvest Apron from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. Its a little waist apron, either square or circular in shape with a gathered option. The pattern download includes full illustrated instructions. 
• Scroop Patterns released the Wonder Unders pattern which includes a slip, camisole and knickers. They are all designed to be made with knit fabrics and I'd love a slip made in silk jersey; how luxurious! 

Pattern Updates and Expansion Packs

• Sew Over It gave us a free pocket pattern piece for the popular and recently released Ultimate Pyjamas pattern. You can download the file from their blog post which includes the instructions for adding pockets to your trousers.
• By Hand London launched the updated version of the Elisalex Dress pattern which was one of their very first! It includes new bodice pattern pieces for the sleeved versions combined with new sleeve options for better fit. The skirt has also been reduced in both volume and length for a slightly subtler tulip shape. I may well give this design another whirl as I swapped out the skirt for a simple circle last time.

Sew-Alongs

• The is a sew-along coming soon from In The Folds for their gorgeous Acton Dress. This pattern is high up my wish list of summer sewing projects so I shall be keeping my eyes peeled for construction tips.
• The sew-along for the Grainline Studio Farrow Dress has just finished up over on the Grainline blog. As usual Jen has packed it with tips and techniques for achieving a professional finish. 

Upcoming!

• Cashmerette has a new pattern coming in January. Eyes peeled for this one, I'm wondering which hole in curvaceous ladies' wardrobes Jenny is going to be filling next!
• The patterns from Victoria Jones Collection are a new discovery to me, I love her range of beachwear and am definitely bookmarking these patterns for any potential future beach holidays! She is releasing a Ranch Shirt pattern in January.
• Schnittchen are looking for testers for their summer collection of patterns, most of which will be the designs that won their recent pattern design competition.
• Coming in the next few days from Pearl Red Moon at Boho Banjo will be the A Couple of Loopholes Dress. It has a really interesting sculptural skirt which I am intrigued by the construction of.
• The next Tilly and the Buttons pattern is named Zadie and we can expect its release in February! It sound like fun with the opportunity to play around with combinations of fabric.

This update seems a little lighter than it has done the last few months which I hoping is due to the independent pattern designers of the world taking a well earned break! I may have missed quite a bit during my own time off so please, as always, feel free to add in anything else you know of in the comments and I'll do my best to update the post. I'll leave you with a final bit of sewing inspiration from the blogging community. My heartfelt thanks go out to all my readers for the support you've shown me and this blog throughout 2016. Wishing you all a very Happy New Year and heres to a 2017 jam packed with sewing!

• Tasha's western inspired Ginger Jeans are jaw-droppingly awesome! I love all the little changes she made to create her dream pair of jeans; that curved back yoke is something else!
• I was really inspired by Heather Lou's leather sleeved version of her Clare Coat pattern. She has such a great eye for putting fabrics and details together to make something wearable yet o so cool.
• Jenny from Cashmerette is an absolute festive delight in her burgundy version of her Appleton Dress pattern. I love the shape of this simple wrap, especially in a bold colour and it looks great on her.
• How gorgeous is the velvet that Helen used for her Seamwork Kennedy Dress? It was actually refashioned from an old skirt and I love her decision to use a plain black chiffon for the yoke.
• I love how the texture and rich colour of the gorgeous wool Peggy chose for her Jenna Cardigan brings interest and a luxurious feel to a classic, simple style. So cosy!