November Indie Pattern Update!

Following the hug October round-up this one feels almost as big! This month designers seem to have been focusing on providing us with lots of advice for sewing their new designs with handy tutorials and sew-alongs being posted. This is one of my favourite aspects of the indie pattern design community, the support and care provided to help you make something beautiful that you'll love. I learnt to sew using indie patterns and wouldn't have progressed anywhere near as quickly without the wealth of online help that is out there. Indie designers I appreciate all the hard work and time you put into creating this content! As well as the sew-alongs many designers had big Black Friday sales. I picked up a couple of patterns I'd had my eye on, did you?

New Patterns

• Louis Antoinette Paris released the Swing Dress and Blouse which has a classic shift shape with dramatic sleeves gathered into the shoulder and cuffs plus optional patch pockets. Great to showcase a special fabric.
• New from Jennifer Lauren Handmade is the Sorrel Dress; a clean, fresh and modern take on the classic shirt-waist dress. The pattern is currently available exclusively as part of the new kickstarter campaign to fund paper versions of her patterns. The campaign was nearly fully funded within one day so we can look forward to seeing those next year!
• Folkwear released the Lindy Shirtdress which is based on a classic 1940s day dress with pleats, darts and gathers cleverly used to create shape. The design features a shawl collar and elbow length cuffed sleeves.
• Megan Nielsen released four gorgeous new designs. I've just made up the Dawn Jeans and they are stellar; designed for non-stretch denim with a high rise and four cuts to choose from. Also launched were the Wattle Skirt and Jarah Sweater, both great for improving beginners. The Floreat Dress & Top features a fun asymmetric hemline and can be made in both woven and knit fabrics.
• Ready To Sew are nailing modern day workwear chic with their new collection. Jean-Paul is a boiler-suit/coverall with a relaxed fit and lots of lovely little details. A plethora of pockets, two sleeves to choose from and a pleat across the bust and back. The second release is James - a beautiful fisherman's smock. Traditionally made from sailcloth this is a classic piece of workwear with button fastening at the neck, interesting pocket options and plenty of decorative topstitching!
• The new patterns released with the November edition of Seamwork Magazine are the Elli Henley Top and Francis Coat. This month's issue includes three hacks for the top, including how to turn it into a dress and the member bonus is an add on for the coat which includes a hood with new neckline.
• The Perrine Trousers are the latest release from Coralie Bijasson at C'est Moi Le Patron. These are a classic tapered trouser with on trend contrasting stripe down the side seam. They'd also make a nice sewing challenge with Italian front pockets and rear welt pockets.
• The new downloadable releases from Mood Fabrics this month included the Maple Culottes Avelia Bomber Jacket, Azara Top, Brya Pants, Brassia Dress and the Poplar Overalls.
• I missed it last month but the new Adley Shirt from Alice and Ann is a classic beauty for pairing with slim legged trousers. I love the relaxed fit, squared off shirt tail hem and v-shaped partial placket. 
• Also last month, new to me pattern company Made By Jack's Mum released the Heyday Dungarees. I love this relaxed fitting style, perfect for sewing in linen and this particular pair feature tie on straps and the best thing about all overalls; plenty of pockets!
• Anne Kerdilès Couture released the Taormine Blouse and and Tromsø Coat. Taormine has a tiered bodice, option to make with a ruffled collar and keyhole fastening at the back of the neck. Tromsø is a classic straight fitting coat with single welt pockets, tailored sleeves and stand collar.
• Our Lady of Leisure released the Manhattan Skirt which would be a great choice of project for any of you who love topstitching as much as I do! It is a short style with hip pockets, curved waistband and central back zip fastening.
• New from Hot Patterns are the Serape Lounging Sweater and the Metropolitan Slouchy Coatigan; both perfect for getting cosy as the temperatures drop. My favourite is Serape with its v-shaped faux wrap neckline and short grown on sleeves. 
• Papercut Patterns released their Geo collection which is packed with stunning details. The six new gorgeous designs include the Ravine Dress (bias cut with a plunging back neckline), Pinacle Top/Sweater, Sierra Jumpsuit (wrap style and straight on my wish list), Fjord Cardi, Meridian Dress and Palisade Pants (which have amazing pockets). I'm now rethinking all my sewing plans!
• New from DG Patterns is the Aida Top and Dress which is a shift style with short dolman sleeves finished with a dramatic ruffle. I love the drama of this and my favourite view is the belted dress.
• Cashmerette launched the Pembroke Dress and Tunic. Designed for knits this is a t-shirt style with three neckline options to really change up the look and two sleeve finishes. I'm particularly taken with the optional tie belt which looks great colour blocked.
• The latest My Handmade Wardrobe pattern from Crafty Sew & So is the Ready to Party Dress. A classic princess seamed party dress with two neckline styles and two skirt options. My favourite is the wrap style pencil skirt!
• Fabrics Store released the Leena Dress which is a simple a-line shift style with pockets concealed in the side seams and ruffled little cap sleeves. They also released the Anna-Rose Knife Pleated Button Up Dress. Shape is created by knife pleats into the waist from both the bodice and skirt and I love how the puff sleeves add drama to the shape.
• Designer Stitch released the Harper Pants which promise a contemporary tailoring aesthetic but with the comfort of a yoga pant! Designed for heavier knits they have two leg widths and three style options including a centre front pin tuck.
• I don't often include patterns for children in the updates but thought it was worth mentioning that Style Arc are now doing a limited number of kids designs! At the moment there are three knit styles (the Sammi Sweatshirt, Lily Leggings and Billie T-Shirt) and one woven (the Andie Dress).
• New from Sew Different is the Geo Dress. It has a relaxed batwing shape with raglan seam lines that reach all the way down to the hip, incorporating deep pockets. The style lines also provide opportunity for interesting colour blocking.
• The Sew Over It PDF pattern release of the month was the Ava Skirt. A classic, simple and versatile a-line skirt with two hem lengths.
• Pattern Fantastique released the Calyx Smock which has a seventies utilitarian vibe. It is gathered around the neck with raglan sleeves and ties at the nape of the neck with a keyhole opening.
• New from Alice & Co is the Intrepid Boiler Suit. It has lovely utilitarian features including a centre front zip fastening, classic collar and patch breast, hip and rear pockets. 
• Trend Patterns released two new designs in November. TPC21 Dropped Shoulder Coat has an oversized shape and double breasted front with large lapels. TPC22 Raglan Dress is part of their basics collection. The front neck is gathered into a high collar which ties at the back and the lovely voluminous sleeves have an elasticated cuff. 
• The Medellin Top and Cartagena Cami are both new from Itch to Stitch. Both designed for knit fabrics Medellin is a faux wrap style that works in both lighter weight and heavier knits and the cami is a wonderful basic for layering with little spaghetti straps.
• Atelier Scammit released three new designs which have dozens of variations between them! The Bonjour Skirt is a simple flared style with elasticated waist and side seam pockets. The Merci Coat has a straight cut and options to make with or without collar, with a zip or button fastening and to add an elasticated back and pocket ruffles. The Petit Choses Dress or Blouse has a bohemian feel with gathered details and optional v-neck or keyhole at the front and full or open back options.
• If you're after a handmade gift idea for children the new pattern from Carolyn & Cassie could have been released at just the right time! The Kimberley Doll includes the rag doll pattern and a full seasonal wardrobe to make for her including accessories.
• Another great Christmas gift idea is the new Serpentine Hat pattern from Elbe Textiles. This fully lined design is completely reversible and has a wide brim. I think it could be a great make for me ahead of my safari holiday in the new year!
• New from Boho Banjo by Pearl Red Moon is the Zambeesie Jacket. It is an unlined collarless style formed of many pieces to create a pat work effect. I love the idea of the decorative seam treatment, turning them to the outside and topstitching. 
• Fehr Trade released the Kinetic Tee; a loose fitting activewear top packed with interesting seaming across the front and back which look great colour blocked. The intersecting panels create cut outs on the shoulder and collar bone. 
• New from Fresh Press Patterns is the Evi Dress A lovely contemporary, flattering design with belted waist, body skimming fit and shaped hemline. My favourite aspect is the button detail around the v-shaped neckline.
• The Lemon Drop Dress and Top is the latest release from Our Lady Of Leisure. This chic and wearable little number features a boat neckline, curved hem and grown on sleeves with cuffed hems.
• Not technically a new pattern release but a great little summer top; The Hemming posted a tutorial guiding you through the process of cutting and sewing the Trudie Top. A strappy little cropped style with ruffled lower edge.
• Experimental Space released the Casey Sweater. A pull over top that is comfy to wear but packed with details that make it a lot more visually interesting. The collar with button detail and long shaped cuffs are great for playing around with contrasting fabrics. 
• I adore the new release from Tessuti and might be adding it to my holiday sewing list. The Romy Top is a square-necked top with slim straps and a slightly a-line shape. Beautiful made up in either a crisp linen or soft viscose.
• The new Salida Skirt from True Bias might be making its way into my wardrobe just as quickly! Beautiful made up in more structured fabrics to show of the shape View A is a tapered knee length style with rear slit and view B is a flared midi length. Both variations have a high waist, front fly, hip pockets and slanted yoke.
• Paper Theory released the Olya Shirt; a gorgeous contemporary twist on a classic oxford style. The front yoke conceals the opening for the hidden breast pockets and also turns into the dolman sleeve which fits into an armhole at the back for shape. A very clever design also including a midi dress version with belt.
• Dhurata Davies released the Lulu Knickers pattern. The pattern teaches knit sewing techniques and three methods of elastic application as well as offering three views; the retro high waist, a lower rise and a thong.
• New from DG Patterns are the Leslie Cardigan (a cocoon style with a circular shape and dolman sleeves) and Gabby Top and Dress; the stand out feature of which is the choice of lovely long petal or dramatic open sleeves.
• In The Folds released another free pattern download in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine. This time a really gorgeous little Playsuit with a relaxed fit, front pockets and tie-up straps.
• The Anya Basic and Tara Basic are new knit styles from Pipe Dream Patterns. Sleeveless Anya can be made as a bodysuit, top or dress and has a round neck or low cowl neck to choose from. Similarly Tara can be made as a bodysuit, sweater or dress and has long sleeves and the choice between scoop neckline or high cowl collar.
• Hey June Handmade released the Brunswick Pullover. This cosy style is packed with options such as a cowl, hood and zipped sleeved pocket plus the choice to make cropped and with optional button plackets at the hem of the side seam.
• Jimmy is one of the latest patterns from Kommatia and is a homage to the iconic white t-shirt of the 1950s...but as a bodysuit! It has a simple snap closure at the crotch and slim bands to finish the neck, arm and leg holes. Their second release this month is Vox; an oversized t-shirt dress/tunic with a 'boyfriend' style fit.
• New from Untitled Thoughts is the beautiful Matilda Wrap Dress. A classic wrap and tie around the waist style designed for knits. I think this looks amazing in a stand out fabric like the velvet used for the sample.
• I AM Patterns released a new collection; I AM Friendly consists of five designs! Charlotte is a classic pencil skirt with button front and Delphine is a straight cut jacket designed to be lined in faux fur but you can also purchase a traditional lining add on. Patricia is a relaxed sweater with dramatic bell sleeves and Perle is a chic little wrap dress with slim ruffles along the front opening, neckline and cuffs. My favourite of the bunch is Perrine, a faux wrap skirt with lovely crisp angles in the front. I can't decide if I like the mini or midi length more!
• New from Atelier Vicolo No.6 and perfect for the recent change in weather is Brunhilde. This pattern can be sewn as a jacket or coat and features a side buttoning closure, skirt that gathers into the waist seam and kimono sleeves. They also released Isidora and Berta; two skirt patterns with button fronts, one with gathered tiers and the other with box pleats.
• Sew Swimmingly released the Veronica Bralette, the perfect match for their Veronica Panty. It is a strappy halterneck style with inverted neckline and includes the option to use cut & sew foam or a mesh lining. You can also sew it with a tie back as a swim top.

Pattern updates and expansions

• Colette re-released their Laurel Dress pattern and it is now available in their full size range of 0-26. The silhouette has been slightly updated and there is a new curvy version available for sizes 18 and above.
• Victory Patterns relaunched their Lola Dress; a sweater style with princess seams and inset pockets with bands to finish neck, hem and cuffs. It is now available in print again and has a revised fit and enhanced instructions.
• Waffle Patterns released an add-on for the Bamboo Coat. This new 'mini pattern' includes a stand collar and double welt pocket with invisible zip to mix and match with the options already included with the coat.
• Aime Comme Marie posted a tutorial with downloadable pattern pieces for adding a lovely pieced v-shaped detail to their Mécano Sweater. The V runs right across the sleeves and creates the opportunity for mixing fabric colours, textures and prints; they've even used sequins for one of the samples! 
• Tuesday Stitches launched a Sleeve Expansion Pack for their Ultraviolet Tee. It includes six new options including short sleeves, cuffed sleeves, batwing sleeves and sleeves with tabs.

Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses

• Alice and Ann have been posting a sew-along for their recently released Adley Shirt pattern. it guides you through all the little details to making your project a success including achieving neat neckline binding and cuffs.
• There have been sew-alongs running over on the Megan Nielsen blog for the Jarrah Sweater and Dawn Jeans; two of her four new pattern releases this month. The sew-along for Dawn in particular is a whopper, packed with advice for creating professional looking jeans.
• Grainline Studio are running holiday gift sew-alongs for both their Stowe Bag and Dopp Kit element of their Portside Travel Set. Both designs would be wonderful handmade gifts and as I've juts got into knitting I'm considering making a Stowe for myself! 
• Ready To Sew have posted step by step tutorials for both of their new designs. Full sew-alongs for both the Jean-Paul Boilersuit and the James Fisherman's Smock can be found on the tutorials section of their website and their instructions also feature clickable links to the relevant posts.
• Designer Stitch have posted a series of tutorials on how to fit their latest release, the Harper Pants as well as advice on sewing the rear welt pockets. 

Upcoming!

• Friday Pattern Company have two new patterns coming out in early December - the Adrienne Blouse and Joan Trousers. 
• As well as the oversized unisex Cornell Shirt pattern, Elbe Textiles are currently working on a new zero waste dress pattern which I'm very intrigued by.
• Sugardale have been running a Kickstarter Campaign for their first collection of patterns. The designs all feature functional and flattering pockets. The Len Coveralls, Evelyn Overalls and Hilda Skirt make a gorgeous trio. Check out Trista's Instagram to see more.
• Maternity Sewing are a resource for all maternity and postpartum friendly patterns and are currently working on a design of their own; the Infinity Dress.
• The next release from Half Moon Atelier will be the Wrap Top Vondel, looking forward to seeing this one!
• Helen from Helen's Closet is working hard on her next new pattern. It will be a layering piece that will work well with her York Pinafore or Blackwood Cardigan.
• Common Stitch are working on their first menswear pattern!
• Made by Rae are working on their next pattern; the Rose Pants. Featuring a flat front, elasticated back waistband, high rise and wide leg these look both comfortable and chic.
• The next Charm Patterns launch from Gertie is on the way! The Jane Set promises a rockabilly vibe and lots of mix and match elements. I love the jumpsuit version she shared a peek of on Instagram.
• Bayron Handmade currently sell knitting patterns but are working on their first sewing design! Named the Phoenix Jumpsuit it looks like it will be bang on trend and perfect for layering.
• The new pattern from The Thrifty Stitcher, Dawson, is set for launch on the Sewing Quarter on Monday. I've been following the develop of this lovely pattern with feature darts on Instagram.

Other Exciting News!

• Breaking the Pattern - the new book from Named is out now! I got my hands on a copy at their London launch and have only praise for it. There are an extraordinary number of gorgeous designs included and I love the the patterns are available as PDF downloads so you don't have to trace off the layered pattern sheets at the back of the book.
• Blue Dot Patterns released their first paper patterns this month. A milestone in any indie designer's journey! Their Coffeehouse Pant and Margo Blouse are the first to be launched.
• Closet Case Patterns set up a resource library to house all their free ebooks, pattern add ons and downloadable tutorials all in one place! Newsletter subscribes receive the password to access this fantastic wealth of sewing goodies.
• The Sew House Seven Nehalem Pant & Skirt pattern is now avaiable in paper format. I was just eyeing this pattern up the other day for my holiday!
• Helen's Closet just announced they will be extending their size range into plus sizes in 2019!
• The Maven Patterns Barcelona Dress is now available in printed format. This would be great made up in a fancy fabric for the party season.

As always feel free to let me know about anything I may have missed in the comments and I'll update! The Sew Frosting challenge has certainly made my blog and Instagram feeds a delight to view this month and I've also been inspired by all the rich autumnal and festive colours popping up! Here's a few of the things that have been inspiring me to get your December sewing motivation going.

• Emanuelle's burgundy suit with oversized Amsterdam Blazer from Oraguese and the slim Clover Pants from Colette is totally inspired! So chic and modern and a lovely rich colour.
• Lori's colour blocked Blackwood Cardigan is so cool! I never would have thought to do this to this pattern and I love the combination of colours. She's also switched up the pocket construction which is really clever.
• Jasika took the Sew Frosting challenge and ran with it! She made this jumpsuit using the Winslow Culottes and strapless bodice pattern from one of Gertie's books. The fabric she's chosen makes the most incredible sculptural shape.
• Abolaji's Instagram feed is so inspiring as she gets so creative with the patterns she uses. This version of the Wiksten Kimono is no exception, dramatically lengthened and sewn up in a reversible wool knit.
• If I didn't already have a coat I adore in my wardrobe I'd be making the Opium Coat and after seeing Michelle's beautiful version I'd probably be copying and making it in a rich red! What a gorgeous job she has done.

Denim Dawn Jean Shorts

The next item of my travel wardrobe is done and dusted and it is a true staple. These denim shorts are made with the new Dawn Jeans pattern from Megan Nielsen and were an absolute joy to sew. I'd forgotten how much I love getting my teeth stuck into a challenge and a garment with so many little details and techniques to master. I used a denim which I picked up at the last Fabric Godmother open day, I believe it was this 12oz Raw Denim if my memory serves me right! I actually managed to squeeze these out of what I had left over from making a pair of Persephone Pants (still awaiting a blog post but there is a sneaky peak at the end of this post!). They don't take much fabric as lots of those little bits and pieces for pockets and fly you can squeeze in around the main pieces. This denim is nice and robust for a pair of jeans or shorts and is the kind of denim which will only get better with wear.

I got so much pleasure out of sewing all those little details particularly as the instructions are well written and thorough, making it really clear where and when to use topstitching thread or regular thread and what stitches are best. Despite the many elements to assemble I didn't find myself confused at any point. The attention to detail in the finishing is a dream, adding bar tacks for strength in various places for example. Working with such a well thought out pattern really encouraged me to do my best sewing and I found myself getting out the seam ripper to correct even slightly wobbly topstitching. It has resulted in a finish I am incredibly proud of. I don't know how I'm going to wait until January to wear them!

I cut the size 8 which is a fraction larger than my waist measurement and a fraction small on the hip which is exactly as they turned out! So true to size, I couldn’t have asked for a better starting point. I say starting point but I barely tweaked a thing. As well as the general sizing being good the proportions of the design elements (pockets, belt loops, waistband etc) are spot on. The rise and shape of the crotch curve are really comfortable for me. There are a few wrinkles on the front at the moment as these are fresh on and pretty stiff but I know these are going to soften up with wear and fit a treat. I can't wait to see how this denim wears in. I wondered if the cut of the bum flattened me out a bit but I think it is the pocket placement. I’ll move them down a fraction next time. I much prefer the size and shape of these pockets than those on my Ginger Jeans which have always felt a little large and low.

Megan does mention in her introductory posts that the pattern is drafted to be snug like a classic high waisted Mom jean so you might want to consider sizing up if you want a more relaxed fit. This is definitely true but I love the close fit around the waist and hip! The fit actually feels quite similar to the Persephones and the wide leg variation of Dawn (there are four cuts to choose from!) certainly has that vibe. The instructions recommend trying on the shorts and adjusting when it comes to the point of sewing the side seams which is what I did. I reduced the side seam allowance to 3/8”, giving me an extra inch of ease overall, as I wanted a slightly more comfortable relaxed fit for my safari adventures but if I was making jeans I probably would have stuck to 5/8”. If you're concerned about the amount of ease on these and think you might want more I'd recommend giving yourself an extra bit of seam allowance at the side seam when you cut. I'd also suggest not cutting your waistband pieces until you’ve tried the jeans on and adjusted the side seams so you can alter the length of the waistband to match this new measurement. I had already cut my waistband pieces and hand no spare fabric so had to use a much smaller seam allowance at the ends of the waistband to make it fit.

The only other alteration I made was to take 1” off the hem as the length as it was looked slightly odd on me. One of my favourite things about the shorts view of this pattern is that they are not cut super short like ALL RTW versions seem to be. I’ve never been able to buy jean shorts because I constantly feel like my butt is hanging out when I try them on or the circumference of the hem is too small a cuts of the circulation to my thighs when I sit down! No such problem with these. I love a high waist on a short short too, it seems to balance everything out.

I recently got a new sewing machine (the Brother Innov-is F420) which I'll be sharing more about soon) and it definitely copes better with topstitching thread and thick layers of denim. I didn't have too much trouble and in fact the main reason for using the seam ripper was my own error! In the instructions Megan advises that the best way to finish top-stitched seams where the start point will be visible is to pull the thread through to the back and tie a knot rather than backstitch so you don't end up with an odd thick point in your topstitching. My machine made this really easy as the button to cut the thread pulls both thread tails through to the back for you and there is also a button to sew reinforcing stitches on the spot rather than backstitch. The machine also has a bar tack function but it didn't seem to cope well in the very thick areas so I resorted to using a tight zig zag to sew mine. I love how they've turned out.

As I got further through the process without any glaring mistakes I got increasingly nervous about each step! I didn’t want to mess them up with wonky waistband topstitching or a rivet in slightly the wrong place. I almost didn’t put the rivets on the back pockets because I was so proud of the topstitched corners...in fact I left the rivet off the coin pocket for that very reason! I did take a picture of the back pockets before I installed them though so I could remember the work! Finishing a project off with a hammer is just so satisfying isn’t it?!

The only thing my machine had difficulty with was the buttonhole on the waistband. I've had this problem with every domestic machine I have tried them on, does anyone have any tips? I'm presuming it is due to the bulk of various seam allowances in this area causing the fabric to pull through unevenly. The beautiful buttonholes made by the F420 are actually my favourite thing about it but with this one everything went a little out of line at the end and I had to unpick and finish by hand. I'm hoping it will hold up. It is a shame as I was excited to be able to choose the buttonhole style with a rounded end one side and bar tack at the other for strength.

The fly instructions included in the paper pattern booklet are for a button fly but I wanted to use a zip. I loved sewing the button fly on my Persephone Pants and it is a great feature but I was after a real classic pair of denim shorts with these and to me that meant a zip. The PDF pattern includes instructions for sewing both a zip fly and exposed button fly (which I might try on jeans!) and I believe if you own a paper copy you can download these additional instructions from the website. These instructions were a slightly different method to what I have sewn before and they seemed to make more sense to me. I don't know if that is just down to experience or Megan's way with words and instructions! Topstitching the curved shape of the fly on the front before closing the crotch seam felt straightforward and I like that the method used leaves you with basting stitches to follow to get a nice shape.

I love that the pattern requirements include different lengths of zip for the different sizes. So often big four patterns list one length of zip for all and when you get to that step you realise it is too long or short. Do be careful when sewing on the waistband if your zipper is a little long, you don't want to ht any metal teeth with your needle! I choose to hand crank the machine over these points.

This was my first time using a Megan Nielsen paper pattern as opposed to a PDF and I was so impressed with the quality. The design of both the envelope and instruction booklet is fresh, clean and very clear whilst being packed with information and I really liked the robust quality of the pattern tissue. I'll be treating myself to paper versions from now on.

It is a testament to the instructions and construction method that the only point I free-styled was to finish the bottom edge of the pocket bags with french seams. This is a tip I picked up from sewing the Ginger Jeans and has stayed with me. It is so easy to do and I like the clean finish rather than overlocked edge plus it is really strong. I used some tropical print scraps I had left over from these Holly Shorts I made a couple of years back. I love a pop of interest inside my clothes!

This a complete Megan Nielsen designed outfit as I’m wearing the shorts with my second version of her Dove Blouse which I finished a while back but didn’t see the point in blogging as I made version 2 exactly the same as before! My first version of this pattern has to be one of my most worn handmade garments and I’ve repaired it a couple of times. This one is made with a silk remnant I picked up in Misan Textiles on Berwick Street in Soho and I’m hoping its going to prove as wearable as the first.

I am absolutely delighted with these, they’ve taught me a lesson in how having patience and not rushing can pay off. I had given myself a stupidly quick self imposed deadline to finish there but I’m so glad I let that go and instead focused on doing the best job I could. I'm defiantly going to make myself some full length jeans from this pattern, likely a black or charcoal tapered pair. Here’s hoping the rest of my holiday wardrobe is as much of a success!

Big Cat Cotton Hot Patterns 1237 Shirtdress

I've finished my first project for my holiday wardrobe and it is probably the one I was most excited about because of the fabric! For those of you who haven't read my handmade travel wardrobe post I'm going on a safari holiday in January so when I spotted this beautiful cotton charting with mini big cat print stocked by The Fabric Store I couldn't resist ordering it. I had in mind a crisp little sleeved shirtdress with breast pockets and all those classic safari chic details and I'm delighted with what I ended up with, although I didn't get there without a bit of a struggle.

I've been meaning to try a design from Hot Patterns for quite some time. For a long time I've been eyeing them up on the Sewbox stand at the big craft shows and been intrigued by the big strong envelopes and wearable styles packed with interesting details. Sewbox stock a huge range of these patterns along with a good selection from other independent designers. I was having a little look through these styles when I spotted Hot Patterns 1237 - the Plain & Simple Favourite Shirt, Tunic and Shirtdress and it jumped out to me as having a lot of the features I was after; a relaxed fit and breast pockets with optional flaps, long sleeves with tabs plus lots of opportunities for topstitching along the princess seams and rear yoke.

In general I really enjoyed sewing this pattern and liked the construction methods, details and drafting...it just came up really huge! Part of the trouble is entirely my fault as I had been warned that they run large so I should make a muslin. However a drought of sewing time over the summer has led to me being quite impatient recently with getting stuck into a project and as it was an oversized style I figured I could think carefully about the size I cut and adjust as I went. This approach was not right for what turned out to be a HUGE amount of ease! There is a very detailed body measurement chart on the back of the envelope but no finished measurements which would have been really useful. The patterns include an impressive range of sizes from 6-26 and I came up between the 8 and 10 so went with the smaller. I probably should have started from an even smaller size but there wasn't much smaller I could go.

The recommended seam allowance is 3/8" and I used 1/2". After basting together the side seams I ended up taking out a whopping 1.5" on the double extra out including down the underarm seam grading gradually out to nothing at the cuff. That's 6" total and it still feels pretty roomy. I then lopped 6" off the hem; bringing it above the knee really helped to balance out the size of it as it was completely overwhelming my fairly petite stature. It wasn't just the general size that felt big, every aspect of the design felt large. Sort of as if if owned a PDF copy of the pattern I would have printed everything at a much smaller scale and it would have fit better proportionally. The breast pockets were extraordinarily large and I reduced them by 2" in both width and height to leave me with a 5" x 4" rectangle instead. By that point was fed up with fiddling around to make things work and abandoned the pocket flaps! I might return to them at a later date as I like the idea of them buttoning.
The only aspect that I still feel lis a little on the large side and I haven't been able to do anything about as it is finished quite early on in the construction process is the collar. It is growing on me but I feel like I want to reduce it by a centimetre or so. Any tips?!

What was strange is that the whole thing is large apart from apart from the sleeves which are a good couple of inches short on me. Luckily I wanted to wear them rolled up and fixed with the tab feature but had I wanted to wear them long they look rather silly! The instructions tell you to sew the tab in place permanently but if you wanted the option to roll the sleeves down again you could easily do so by only fixing one end of the tab and sewing a buttonhole in the other end.

I'm used to designs from one of the big four pattern companies including a lot of ease and this felt similar to working with one of those patterns in a lot of ways. The pattern sheets are laid out similar to the big four patterns with instructions and illustrations printed on to the pattern pieces rather than a separate booklet. It felt like there was a lot less of the information included at the start of the instruction booklet than by lots of indie companies but there were cutting layouts and brief sewing tips included. I don't usually pay that information much attention nowadays but like to look them over when I am trying a pattern company for the first time.

In terms of the instructions I loved that the first steps were all about constructing the individual little bits like pockets, collar, sleeve tabs and facings so they are ready to apply to the main body further along. This is the way I usually sew. I often look ahead in the instructions and batch sew any bits like this. It is not only really satisfying to have all these bits ready when you need them but I also feel speeds me up as you can pin lots of little bits, then sew lots of little bits, then press lots of little bits rather than moving from station to station repeatedly.

I would recommend sewing another shirt with more detailed instructions or researching shirt sewing techniques before tackling this pattern. The construction method is excellent but each step of the instructions is only explained fairly briefly and relies on you having some sewing knowledge. I don't think there is anything wrong with that and the pattern certainly provides you with everything you need but lot of indie sewing patterns have instructions so detailed you can basically learn to sew from them so be warned if you are a beginner, you will need to do a bit of extra research to achieve the best finish.

Pay attention to both the illustrations and the written instructions and look them over more than once. They don't include a lot of information but it is important to look at the stitching lines and where to clip etc. The yoke is cleanly finished but there is no mention of when and how to finish seams which is weird as if you don't you can end up with raw edges under the pocket flaps, along the major seams and raw facings. Having said that there are some great tips included, such as to sew both your patch pocket pieces together, press and the unpick to give you two perfectly even pocket shapes.

I particularly liked the method for constructing and finishing the sleeve plackets. So quick and neat. The sleeves are two piece which is a lovely feature and gave me scope for more topstitching! I also love the curved shirt-tail hem shape but would recommend making that hem as narrow as you can to help you deal with easing it around those tight curves.

There is no topstitching included in the instructions as the pattern is designed to have a clean look but I added in lots of it! Partly because that was the look I was after and partly because I just love doing it. I used the same standard white sew-all thread I was using for the constructiosn and did most seams as a faux flat fell by overlocking the allowances together and pressing to one side before top-stitching. This was rather than pressing them open which the instructions recommend for most seams.

I'm wondering if the extra ease would bother me less in a softer, drapier fabric. The crisp finish of this cotton does give the dress some body and in something like a silk crepe or viscose challis it might hang closer to the body. As it is I'm enjoying styling it with a belt at the moment but I'm sure I'll be wearing it without and will appreciate all the extra room around the body in the heat!

The crisp finish of the cotton is actually what I like about it most. It is a very fine cotton (I will probably make myself a little cotton lawn slip to wear underneath this for modesty) but it has a really wonderful natural texture in the weave with you might be able to make out in some of the close up photos. Despite the crisp hand it is soft and smooth against the skin. It was delightful to work with as it holds such a lovely crease or clean edge when pressed. It made all of those little shirt details such a pleasure to construct. I didn't attempt any pattern matching as the big cats are so randomly placed but part way through construction I wondered if I should have as there are a lot of seam-lines going on with all those separate elements which has equalled lots of dissected cats!

I used a lightweight woven cotton interfacing for the collar, cuffs and sleeve tabs. I wouldn't recommend interfacing the facing on this style as you want the front to hang nice and softly. As the cotton is so fine when you have two layers of the cotton together the big cats from underneath show through and I thought this might look a bit messy and chaotic so I cut the inside yoke from some plain white cotton lawn and underlined my breast pocket pieces with the same. I did consider cutting the front facing pieces from the same but then realised they are turned back to form part of the collar so stuck with the big cats both there and under the collar. I got a bit stuck with what direction to cut the collar piece in as cutting it on the recommended cross grain would have meant cats standing on their heads and tails at the front. In the end I cut it along the grain so at least on one side the cats are standing up. The cuff pieces I cut on the cross grain so the cats faced the same way as they did on the sleeves.

The buttons I think really pull the look together and I'm pleased I went with a darker choice. I love the natural wooden finish of these. I randomly had a couple of them in my button box which I must have sampled and not used for a show at work at some point but liked them so much for this project I put them in my purse to see if I could track down some more on my travels somehow. Luckily I found them again easily in John Lewis and they had just enough for my project! The pattern doesn't include any guidance for the placement or spacing of your buttons so that was quite interesting to figure out! I wasn't sure how far to overlap the centre front or how high the first button should be so I just went with what I felt looked right. The pattern calls for 8 buttons to fasten the dress but I've used 9, despite shortening it quite a bit so I'd recommend purchasing a few spare buttons. As my sleeves are permanently rolled up I didn't use the four recommended for the cuffs, just two on the tabs to finish them off.

Thanks to Susan at Sewbox for giving me the opportunity to try out a Hot Patterns design. I'll certainly be giving another a try in future as the drafting and construction are great and they have such a wide selection of styles but I'll be sure to make a thorough muslin next time! I'm keen to make up one a more fitted style as I'm unsure how much of the size issue was due to the ease included in their drafting as standard and how much was down to the fact that this is an oversized style.

Bottle Green Corduroy Jenny Overalls (with detachable bib!)

I'm really excited to share this project with you today. I finished these overalls a week ago and have already worn them three times; the sign of a successful garment! Sarah from Like Sew Amazing offered me some fabric from her online store to try and this beautiful bottle green corduroy was an obvious choice for me the second I saw it. Corduroy is everywhere on the high street at the moment and perfect for this time of year, particularly in rich autumnal hues like this. Sarah also has a wine, purple and some beautiful floral prints on warm, dark bases in stock at the moment. I was really happy with the fabric when it arrived. It has a nice sheen like a cotton velvet and is quite chunky with a wale of 8. The wale is the number of ridges in an inch and 8 is quite low. Something like a needlecord would have a much higher wale closer to twenty. Despite the width of the wale the fabric itself is not overly thick and is beautifully soft. Some corduroys can be a little stiff.

I was initially going to make Lander or Persephone pants but then Heather Lou very generously sent me a copy of the Jenny Overalls along with the Fiona Sun-dress and I couldn't get the idea of bottle green corduroy overalls out of my head. I've already got two versions of the Turia Dungarees, a more fitted McCalls style and the Cleo Pinafore in my wardrobe so really questioned whether making another pair would be a waste. Then I recalled seeing an amazing version shared on Instagram; Mia made hers with a detachable bib! I could make trousers with the option to turn them into overalls if I feel like it. I'm so glad I did make them as I definitely need this particular pair of dungarees in my life! To me they feel really of the 1940s but styled like this with a turtleneck or my new striped tee a few people have commented that they have a great seventies vibe too.

This was quite a big project but enjoyed every step of putting it together. I thought I couldn't learn anything new from making more dungarees but these feel completely different to those I have tried before and the making of them was too. What I love about Closet Case Patterns designs is that they usually involve a number of interesting construction techniques, some of which I haven't tried before and they all combine to make a beautifully finished garment which is built to last. I feel like time and thought has been put into the best techniques, both in terms of aesthetic and practicality. For example the lapped zip running down into the pocket at the side seam of these trousers and the little shaped waistband tab which fastens with a button.

I did get a little confused with the lapped zip instructions but it turned out beautifully. I was finishing the insides of my trousers on the overlocker and found it quite tricky to finish the side seams on there after the zip was inserted. I'd recommend finishing the side seams once you've got the pocket pieces in place but before you put in the zip if you're overlocking. You'll be left with a fair bit of seam allowance in this area but I think I'd prefer that than a messy finish. The pattern comes with the option to sew a zip either side of the waist to make it easier to get in and out. I only needed one and have plenty of room. If you're struggling with the lapped zip this post is very helpful and covers the pocket construction too which I think is really great by the way. I like the corduroy facings, large size of the pocket bags and finishing them with french seams. As suggested in the instructions I added a lightweight twill tape to the seam allowances of the pocket openings to help prevent them stretching out with time. For my pocket bags I used some Liberty Tana Lawn in Queue for the Zoo which I had left over from a shirt I made for my stepdad. I like that Closet Case patterns always instruct you to use the wrong side inside the pockets so you can see the fabric in all it's glory when your put them on.

I cut the size 8 mainly as it matched my hip size. The 8 is an inch big on the bust and waist for me but I the bust isn't particularly important with this style and the extra room at the waist came in useful when adding the detachable bib. I adore the fit. They feel totally different to any dungarees I've made before and are certainly more winter appropriate. I love the neat little fitted waist, flaring out into wide trousers and the close fit of the bib along with the shape of it and the pocket. These elements make this garment feel a bit more elegant, feminine and sophisticated than the other overalls in my wardrobe. Plus they are just so snug and comfortable! I was a bit apprehensive about the width of the leg when I first looked at the pattern pieces but now they are made I adore it. A bit of a departure from my usual style but it hasn't taken me long to get used to it. I took a whopping 4" off the leg to keep them at floor length on me (I'm 5ft 3" for reference). Now I've worn them a little bit with different shoes I feel like perhaps 3.5" would have been better. I may go back in and give myself a bit more length but I'm a bit worried that the stitching line and pressed edge won't come out of the corduroy now.

My absolute favourite thing about the project is the detachable bib. Mia does share how to do this hack on her Instagram Stories but I didn't realise beforehand so made up my own version which is actually the opposite way round; my buttons are attached to the waistband and buttonholes are in the bib. It is pretty quick and simple to do and if you want to do it this way you'll want quite small flat buttons so they don't add too much bulk at the waist. I luckily had six of just the right colour and size in my stash. When cutting my bib pieces I simply added an extra 1.5" to the bottom to give me that much extra depth to tuck into the waistband and add fastenings to. I also did this to the front pocket pieces. I then cut a strip the same length as the width of the bib and 2" wide. I pressed one long edge under then sewed the remaining raw edges to the bottom of the bib, right sides together. I trimmed the seam allowances, turned it through to the right side and topstitched in place giving a cleanly finished extension to add the buttonholes to. If anyone is interested in more details let me know and I could do a quick tutorial!

Obviously the end of the straps need fastening to the waistband at the back. To do this I just finished the ends by turning under twice and stitching, then sewing buttonholes in the straps and attaching buttons inside the waistband just above the rear darts. If I did this again I'd finish the bottom of the straps in the same way as the bib instead so that these button holes are through two layers of fabric and a little more robust. After a day of wear these start to pull out of shape. A little interfacing in the buttonhole area could be beneficial too.

If you're going to attach your bib with buttons and your fabric is thick I'd recommend giving yourself a little extra ease than usual at the waist. You end up with a couple more layers of fabric plus the buttons inside there when the bib is attached. Worth it as buttons are the easiest and most secure way to fasten your bib. Adding the buttons meant I could spend more time playing with the automatic buttonhole feature on my new machine too. It makes my day every time and I'm looking forward to showing you more about the machine soon. There are some short videos in the stories highlights on my Instagram profile for the time being.

I followed this detailed post when attaching the buckles and sliders to the straps as I have never used buckles with sliders before and was very confused! I'm very excited to be able to adjust the strap length now though rather than have them sewn down! I trimmed a good couple of inches off the length of the straps once they were attached so I didn't have too much excess flapping about at the shoulders. I used the Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls Hardware Kit and love how the matt antique brass looks against the bottle green cord. I only have the Prym tools for applying jeans buttons which these particularly ones didn't fit so I just whacked them in with a hammer! They are good quality and nice and sturdy.

If I'd been making them in denim or a twill I might have gone with more of a workwear look with a lot of topstitching. But with this lovely rich corduroy I kept the topstitching minimal as, particularly on the trousers, I wanted a clean contemporary look. I didn't include the optional faux fly front or topstitching around the pocket bags and openings and I chose to slipstitch the interior of the waistband down by hand rather than topstitching. I did machine stitch the hem as I love how deep it is and wanted to emphasise that. This corduroy is quite soft so the depth of the hem really helps hold the shape of the trousers out wide at the bottom.

As with my Ginger Jeans I find the rear patch pockets to be a little on the large side. That bothers me less with the style of these trousers; I think the width of the leg balances them out. But I might reduce them slightly if I make them again. I used the pocket placement as marked on the pattern and think this is about right on me. I like that they are a little low to suit this style.

The only disadvantage of nice soft corduroy such as this is that areas like the knees do start to sag after a bit of wear and I feel like this ruins the line of the wide trousers a little. It pings right back into shape after a wash or nice steamy press though. The other thing I would recommend is overlocking the raw edges of the fabric before pre-washing or finishing them in some way. When I got it out of the machine there was a crazy amount of bottle green fluff all over the place! I felt like I was cleaning it up for days. It was pretty messy to work with throughout the whole process and as I sew in my bedroom I was quite relieved to to finish purely so that I could give everything a good clean!

Aside from this the fabric was dreamy to sew with and is even nicer to wear. The trickiest thing about working with corduroy, as with velvet, is that it is easy to damage the pile of the fabric when pressing. It was certainly the case with this corduroy that if I pressed too hard along a seam line or hem the pile would permanently flatten. Also if I applied heat directly to the right side of the fabric it would create an unwanted sheen along seam allowances and edges. I wanted to use a nice hot iron as this corduroy is 100% cotton and responded well to pressing and shaping so I opted to use a press cloth when necessary. To prevent damage to the pile of the fabric I pressed the corduroy from the wrong side as much as possible and against another piece of the fabric so the pile wasn't being squashed onto the ironing board. You can get special velvet boards for this purpose which have lots of little 'needles' poking up but I don't have one and they are quite expensive. I find using another piece of the fabric works just as well. Now I have finished the garment I am still pressing the fabric against itself and from the wrong side as much as possible.

I know I'm going to wear these to death this winter. They look great paired with so many of the tops in my wardrobe and I can get double wear out of them as trousers one day and dungarees the next! Thanks so much to Sarah at Like Sew Amazing and Heather Lou at Closet Case Patterns for giving me the means and inspiration to make this winter wardrobe winner.