Sunday, 7 April 2019

Paprika Linen Palisade Shorts

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

One of my most worn pieces in my handmade holiday wardrobe, certainly whilst I was in Africa, I didn't have time to document before I left. They are another design from the Papercut Patterns' new collection and are again effortlessly wearable but a unique style with interesting design details. These are the Palisade Shorts which can also be made as tapered trousers. I've had this heavyweight paprika linen from The Fabric Store in my stash since last summer as I originally had them in mind for a pair of shorts using the True Bias Lander Pants pattern or possibly the Tessuti Esther Shorts but once I saw this new release I couldn't resist.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

I really put these shorts through their paces whilst travelling and I ran out of time to get them photographed beforehand so what you're seeing here is far from new! They've had a few hard washes a tumble dries in shared laundry facilities at campsites in Africa which isn't usually how I care for my linen and that combined with wearing on long hikes and dusty safari drives in the heat of the sun has really started to wear the linen in. It is faded and softened in spots and I love how it is showing its age. All my previous makes in linen from The Fabric Store have retained their rich colours well so I'm putting the slight fade of these down to the strenuous wear and rigorous laundry.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

At first glance these could appear to be a very simple pair of elasticated waist shorts but on closer inspection they have lots of well thought out features. Firstly, the faux fly. It would have been easy to eliminate this feature on these shorts and just go for a flat centre front seam, or even just topstitch the shape of a fly on the front as it serves no practical purpose. But I like that a fly is actually semi-constructed so you have a fold of fabric as you would covering a regular fly. It adds interest and a slightly more professional looking finish plus is more interesting to construct.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

Secondly I really like that the elastic and therefore ruched portion of the waistband only runs around the back and sides and the front of the shorts is kept flat. Much more flattering, particularly when using a potentially bulky bottom weight fabric. The only thing I'd do differently construction wise next time is to sew a line of stitching through the centre of the elastic from end to end to prevent it from twisting and folding, which this width of elastic really wants to do when left free inside a casing like this. It was a bit of a nightmare to sort out when it came out of the tumble dryer.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

What I love about Papercut designs is that the design details often have a practical function; like these INCREDIBLE pockets! Nearly every sewist I know loves a pocket and these shorts have huge ones the full width of the side panel. Not only are the pocket bags very generous in size but they are in fact two pockets in one. The criss cross of layers visible on the outside create two separate bags. Wonderful for keeping things safe while on safari let me tell you, but panic did ensue a couple of times when my hand couldn't locate my phone when I reached in...and it was in the other pocket bag!

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

So lets talk about the screamingly obvious thing about the fit of these when you look at the front on photo...they're pretty baggy in the crotch area! I believe they're designed to be worn higher on the waist I think but they don't feel quite right there. I could tighten the elastic to they sit more snuggly but I think it is the bulk of the gathering that makes me want to push them down on my hips. To wear them like this I could do with shortening the front crotch a bit, the back rise is fine. The volume in this area means they are potentially erring on the nappy-like side of things, especially when I sit down and all that room in the front crotch becomes even more obvious. However, having said that, on holiday I didn't really care so much about how they looked but did care a lot about how comfortable they were and I think the fact that they were worn so regularly speaks for itself.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

After my experience with the Sierra Jumpsuit coming up a little small on the lower half I cut the size S and graded out to between the S and M at the hip to give myself a little extra wiggle room across the seat. I don't think I really needed the extra space in this style and the waist came out a little large, as to be expected as the measurement suggested I was closer to the XS in this area. It was easily rectified by tightening the elastic slightly.

Diary of a Chain Stitcher: Papercut Patterns Palisade Shorts in Paprika Heavyweight Linen from The Fabric Store

Another great project that I really enjoyed making from Papercut Patterns. I think now I'm not working to a deadline I could definitely benefit from making a toile of their styles to get the fit just right and remembering that they tend to come up a little long on 5ft3 me.  After two projects I'm still not quite done with their Geo collection though; I've got my eye on the Meridian Dress next! 

4 comments:

  1. I love that colour so much! I’ve just cut out a pair of Palisade trousers, hope they turn into a staple like yours have :)

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  2. I've cut out my second version of the pants, they are so comfortable. I've seen some good versions of the meridian dress too ;o)

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  3. If there are any seams in the elastic portion of the waistband, you could "stitch in the ditch" to keep the elastic from twisting.

    Your review has me looking at this pattern more closely! I wondered if those were double pockets. They look very, very wearable.

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  4. These are gorgeous! I love the colour of the fabric and the pattern is great, I love the pockets.

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