September Indie Pattern Update!

The change in season seems to have kickstarted the indie sewing pattern community into overdrive with new releases; I've got a whopper of a post for you this month! I recommend grabbing a cup of tea before you start. Get ready to open approximately 1000 browser tabs and to increase your new season sewing plans ten fold. After compiling this I can't wait to tackle my fabric stash and get back on my machine!

New Pattern Companies

• The Hemming launched with two gorgeous patterns! The Adelia Dress with it's relaxed fit and button front has particularly piqued my interest and I wish it was still summer here so I could waft around in linen versions of this all day. The Polly Top is an off the shoulder design with ribbon drawstrings and a rolled hem finish.
• Experimental Space have been producing knitting patterns for a while but this month released their very first sewing pattern! The Evelyn Blouse is available in both paper and PDF format. It is a pretty a classic style with stand collar, v-neckline and sleeves finished with vented cuffs.
• Digital Pattern Library launched with their very first pattern; the Belted Sweater. I love the drama of this super comfortable and wearable design. It has a statement belt which wraps twice around the waist and ties kimono style as well as pleated long sleeves.

New Patterns

• The two patterns released with this month's edition of Seamwork Magazine were the Bo Top and Callahan Pants. The top is a great little boxy blank canvas for woven fabrics that would look very different made up in light or heavyweight fabrics and I love the pin tucks running down the front and back of the trouser legs combined with rear patch pockets.
• Sarah Kirsten released the Clematis Tote. It is a paperless design, so the pattern instructions guide you through drawing out your pattern pieces on to fabric then sewing up. It is a lovely simple unlined design assembled with french seams for a clean and sturdy finish.
• New from Schnittchen is the Joy Dress. An elegant style with one sided lapel and option to make sleeveless, with a short sleeve or more cut away tank style shoulder. The insertion of the bodice into the skirt pieces looks really interesting, one of those designs that I want to sew to see how it is put together! 
• The Picasso Top & Pants are new from The Sewing Workshop. The pants are a lantern shape with tapered bottom panels and the top features square inset sleeves and seaming perfect for colour blocking. I'm interested in making this for the overlapping seam technique included in the instructions!
• The Women's Sierra Peplum, Mini, Maxi and Romper is the latest release from Made for Mermaids. Designed for knits, this pattern has a lot of options to play with including sleeved or sleeveless and side cut outs in the bodice. A girls version is also available.
• New from Style Arc this month was the McKenzie Set. The Woven Pants have a classy cut and flared leg but the Blazer is the real star of the show for me. Longline, boxy and double breasted this is super on trend. The Almy Woven Top was the new one of the freebies for the month and features a cute combo on button front and neckline flounce.
• Closet Case Patterns released the Amy Jumpsuit which I downloaded and started cutting straight away! It is a minimalist style with wide cropped legs, a flattering v neck front and back and optional tie belt. I can see myself living in this kind of thing! The pattern is designed for wovens and is available as a PDF download only.
• The Quincy Dress is new from Jennifer Lauren Handmade; a classic shirtwaist style with drawstring around the waist and pockets neatly integrated into the panelled skirt. All the skirt, sleeve and bodice pattern pieces for this design can be mix and matched with her Mayberry Dress!
• French Navy Now released the Morningside Dress & Shirt. This is a relaxed popover style with partial front placket that looks effortlessly wearable for work or pleasure. I'm particularly taken with the little flounce sleeves!
• The Leone Coat is the latest release from Fresh Press Patterns and is a lovely unlined collarless design with feature pocket panels across the front. Minimal yet interesting; my favourite kind of pattern!
• Ohhh Lulu released the Hunter Mid-Rise Boy Leg Panties. The top edge is finished with fold-over elastic and they also have the option to add a triangular insert at the front which looks great in contrasting mesh. There's a video tutorial to guide you through sewing this feature. They also released Tundra which is slightly different to their usual patterns as there are no pieces to cut and sew, just measurements and instructions. The design is a sexy adjustable elastic strap cage bralette and panty/garter which looks great layered other some of their other designs.
• Elbe Textiles have been working on some new menswear designs, the first of which is the gorgeous Essendon Bomber Jacket. I'm now running through a list in my head of all the men I know to figure out who I can find an excuse to sew one for! A real wardrobe classic with ribbed neck, hem and cuffs and welt pockets in the front. They also posted instructions for making a Zero-Waste 'Kimono' which I'm definitely going to be trying out!
• While I'm on the fascinating subject of zero-waste patterns, this month I discovered Milan AV-JC whose beautiful designs are all zero-waste. This month they released their Karma Trench in English which is designed specifically to be sewn in faux-suede or another fabric which doesn't fray. I love the drama of it and the pocket detail.
• Mood's new free pattern downloads this month included the Xeranthemum Dress, Xylosma Dress, Yarrow Dress and the Zinnia Jacket which I really love as statement piece for Autumn and Winter. They also released the Fang Cosplay and additional gloves and belt to go with it.
• Itch to Stitch released the Petaluma Faux Wrap Dress which is a flattering feminine style with petal shaped hem and three sleeve options. The wrap style is lovely and the bonus with this one is that you don't have to worry about it loosening up over the day as it has a centre back zip fastening!
• Colette released their first Colette X Seamwork designs which are available to Seamwork Magazine members for just one Seamwork credit! The designs combine the simple lines of Seamwork patterns with the feminine details of Colette. The Nora is a sweater-dress that is a great base for playing around with interesting knit fabrics like the laces in the samples. I'm particularly taken with Elaine which are slim pants or culottes. The notched back waistband, triangular rear welt pocket flaps and split hems are all great little details.
• Sew Over It released the Cora Top PDF pattern. I'm definitely going to be downloading this one as it looks like such a satisfying to sew and wearable project. It has a relaxed fit and pleat details at both the front and back and comes with the option to lengthen into a kaftan style dress.
• New from Designer Stitch is the Chelsea Cardigan. Best suited to showcase drapey fabrics this is the perfect transitional garment. I particularly like the longer 'high calf' length.
• The Bingley Boxer Shorts are the latest release from Measure Twice Cut Once. A classic boxer with workable button fly and designed for both men and women, these are an adaption of their popular Darcy Boxer pattern but with a covered elastic waistband. Susan has also given the website a bit of makeover so go take a look!
• Sew DIY released the Ali Sweatshirt. This is a sporty, casual design with some great little details like the dolman sleeves combined with a back yoke and guidance for topstitching the visible sleeve seams. There are two variations for sleeve length and neckline shape.
• One of my favourite releases of the month is the 23+ Pockets pattern from Waffle Patterns. This pattern download includes an assortment of fun and functional pocket designs all with fully illustrated instructions. These can be applied to any of your sewing projects but would be particularly great of any of their lovely coats.
• Issue 3 of Lisa Comfort magazine is out now and with it the beautiful Heidi Dress pattern! This wrap style has a real seventies vibe with loose sleeves and a skirt and bodice that gather into the waistband. It ties inside and out for security and can be made as a top or maxi dress with hem frill too.
• Kommatia Patterns launched the Alice T-Shirt Dress. This has a semi-fitted silhouette that follows the curves of the body without clinging and looks great belted too.
• I AM Patterns released the I AM Unique collection. Luna is a button back blouse with a large pointed collar and Magdala is a dress or blouse with dramatic tiers of ruffles. Gaia is my personal favourite, a simple v-neck cami with wide straps gathered into 'links' at the shoulders.
• Studio Faro released the Boat Neck Tee. A real classic to add to your pattern collection this is best suited to four-way stretch knits. It has a slim fit and three quarter length sleeves and the neck band can be sewn as an inside or outside binding. 
• Pipe Dream Patterns had two new releases this month! Firstly the Brooke Cami Dress, which is a strappy wrap style with optional flounces. The finish is fully bias bound so you can play around with contrast fabrics or sew as a simple cami too. The second surprise release was the Willow Overalls. They have both chino fit and wide leg options and are beginner friendly with straps that tie to the bib and rear patch pockets.
• New from Itch to Stitch is the Aveiro Cardigan; a much requested v-neck style designed to be worn open. There are four bodice lengths including a rounded bolero shape and four sleeve options to mix and match.
• Cashmerette launched the Chilton Trench Coat; a curvy and plus size classic single breasted coat. The design includes all the traditional details you'd expect on a trench including storm flaps, epaulettes, cuff latches and pockets. There are two views in different lengths. 
• New from Wardrobe By Me are the Hepburn Pants. Features include a high waist with belt loops, zip fly, rear welt pockets and two hem widths to choose from. They have a slight menswear vibe as you'd expect for a pattern named after the iconic Kathryn. 
• The Madison Cardigan is the latest release from Style Sew Me. A dramatic and stylish design with long length and curved waterfall front, this pattern is designed for heavier knits. I think it could be a great match for some double sided merino double knit I've just sampled from The Fabric Store. It would be amazing to see a pop of contesting colour inside.
• The Maker's Atelier released the Relaxed Drawstring Dress. The drawstring waist adds gentle shape and the full length wide sleeves are finished with cuffs. The pattern comes with options for a deep round neckline or turtleneck.
• New from Tessuti are the Chiara Pants. A really classic wide leg design that is sure to become a wardrobe staple; these have a subtle flared hem, front and back darts and a side zipper opening as well as a stitcher down facing to finish the waist.
• There is a new collection of three patterns available from Liesl and Co. The Hollywood Trousers are a classic pair of fitted trousers with 'menswear style pocket stays' for smooth front which I'm very intrigued by! The Neighbourhood Sweatshirt & Hoodie is a classic wardrobe staple which has been cleverly thought out. My pick of the bunch is the Afternoon Tea Blouse which features a inset panel across the chest and sleeves forming a chevron at the side. This looks great in lace but I love the ruffle sample too. I'm also intrigued by the lack of shoulder seam!
• The Assembly Line released the elegant V-Neck Dress pattern. It has a slightly a-line shape with optional belt and the choice to make sleeveless or with three-quarter length sleeves. My favourite feature is the v-shaped neckline which continues up into a graceful collar at the back of the neck.
• Swim Style launched the next pattern in their collection of separates. The Vera Bandeau Bikini Top is a simple bandage style with bust pleats for shape and a removable cup lining. It comes with the option to add skinny tie shoulder straps.
• Sew Swimmingly are a new pattern company discovery for me and I've added most of their designs to my holiday sewing queue! In September they released the Lucy One-Piece which has a smooth, flattering and clean finish and the Sabrina Pant which has two coverage options and knots at the sides.
• Louis Antoinette released their Autumn/Winter Collection. There are two dress patterns; Omsk is fitted style with piping to highlight the design features and ruffles around the armholes and Oural has a soft bodice and more structured skirt with curved panels to enhance the hourglass shape. I love this made up in contrasting textures.
• The London Shirt is new from The Sewing Workshop. Oversized with a swing back, I love the shape created by the diagonal side seams which end in vents and the dropped three-quester length sleeves with folded cuffs really compliment the style.
• Friday Pattern Company released the Hughes Dress. The shape of this button up dress with it's scoop neck and button front has a bit of nineties vibe. I like that it includes process seams and am particularly taken with the optional back lacing.
• New to download from Free Sewing are the mens Shin Swim Trunks. They are a close fitting style trunk with seven different pattern options and making use of three body measurements to achieve the perfect fit.

Pattern updates and expansions

• Carolyn & Cassie released a second version of their popular first design, the Perth Dress in a larger size range. This new pattern is for sizes 46-54.
• Pauline Alice re-released their Ninot Jacket pattern. The new version has a larger size range and a new mid-thigh length variation with round neckline. They've also chosen to simplify the construction a little by reducing the number of pattern pieces and replacing the bound buttonholes with machine-made. If you already own the pattern you can follow the instructions at the end of this post to receive an update.
• Megan Nielsen has started a Pattern of the Month feature and part of this sees the release of a bonus variation. This month is the Harper Shorts and newsletter subscribers can download free pattern pieces or you can follow the drafting instructions online to transform them into a lovely pair of wide leg pants!

Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses

• Also as part of her new Pattern of the Month feature Megan Nielsen has been running a sew-along for Harper Shorts & Skort. It includes tips for sewing both variations.
• Fresh Press Patterns are just starting the sew-along for their new Leone Coat. This is going to include guidance on how to add a lining if you fancy taking your project a step further. 
• Sew DIY are running a sew-along for their new Ali Sweatshirt. This will be great to follow if you are new to working with sweat shirting or knit fabrics in general.
• The Sewing Workshop are part way through a sew-along for the new London Shirt on their ThreadWEAR 301 blog. It is packed with tips and tricks to make your stylish project a success. 

Upcoming!

• Paprika Patterns are currently testing a maternity version of their Amber Trousers. These have a v-shaped yoke, perfect for a growing bump and two leg styles.
• Elbe Textiles have some new designs coming soon including the unisex Fremantle Pants which they are currently testing and will have a mid rise, elasticated waist and tapered leg with three lengths. 
• Named's sewing book will be officially published on 15th November. You can preorder Breaking the Pattern: A modern way to sew on Amazon now. I am SO excited to see more of this and what delicious clean-cut Scandi designs are inside!
• Deer & Doe have two new patterns coming in October which promise to be demanding and rewarding designs. I've had a sneaky peak at one and it is definitely something to look forward to!
• After the release of Sapphire last month, there will be a new Pin-Up Girls bra pattern coming soon from Bra-Makers Supply named Amethyst.
• The next pattern from the The Avid Seamstress is due to be released on 5th October. I'm looking forward to checking out The Blouse at the Knitting & Stitching Show mid next month!
• Thread Theory are working on their next pattern and from a sneak peak on Instagram I've deduced that it could be mens jeans! Definitely a huge gap in the indie sewing market.
• Coming later this week from Afternoon Patterns are the Heron Culottes! I'm loving this style in my wardrobe at the moment so can't wait to see these.
• Also releasing next week are the Orchid Midi from Chalk & Notch and the Parasol Jumpsuit and Trousers from Ensemble Patterns. They have collaborated so the patterns can be mixed together giving you three bodice options, four bottoms and two waistbands just to start.

Other Exciting News!

• Unfortunately Vesta Patterns are closing down and as a result are having a 70% off sale on all their paper patterns.
• Style Arc are now selling multi-size paper and PDF patterns through their website! A selection of 150 of their designs are now available in this format and will be great news for those of you that need to grade between sizes. PDF patterns also now come with print shop as well as the standard print at home files.
• The Kickstarter campaign for new pattern company Selkie Patterns launched this month and is already 100% funded! They have some exciting additional stretch goals coming soon. Their first pattern is London and will be a sweet blouse or dress with keyhole neckline and full skirt. They are also offering exclusive hand-painted fabric prints of the London skyline.
• Gertie has a third book coming out in April next year! Named 'Gertie Sews Jiffy Dresses' it is a modern guide to vintage stitch-and-wear patterns which you can sew in a day. Keep your eyes on her Instagram and blog for more details coming soon.

Phew! Well done for making it to the end of that! I don't feel like I can have missed much this month but as always feel free to add in to the comments anything that has slipped through the net. To finish up here's a few projects from the sewing community that have been inspiring my sewing this month!

• Anna made an amazing refashioned version of the Hadley Top from a few pairs of jeans! Such a great idea to use this pattern as a blank canvas to piece together all those different colours and shades of denim and beautifully executed.
• Susan did brilliant things with the Simple Sew Cocoon Jacket pattern. I absolutely love the inspired choice of white top-stitching on indigo blue denim. Workwear chic at it's finest!
• Linda's version of the Isca Shirt Dress  features amazing pattern placement making the most of the check and style lines. Am so motivated to work creatively with checks and stripes now!
• Mie's Style Arc Como Set really made me look twice at these patterns and their clever cutting and construction. She doesn't love it as an outfit but I think it's fab! I adore the fabric she chose for the cardigan in particular.
• I adore Elena's version of the Named Helmi Shirtdress, she's made me look twice at this pattern. Her choice of a solid, neutral colour organic cotton is spot on and I like the change to a gathered skirt.

A Quick Ogden Cami Hack

The Ogden Cami from True Bias is a stalwart of many a handmade wardrobe and as well as making it up in multiple colours, prints and fabrics there is plenty of mileage to be had out of the design with some simple pattern hacking too. What I did to this version was super simple and quick but transforms the look of the top. When you've got as many versions of this pattern in your wardrobe as I do making some of them look at least a little different to the others is a must!

After my successful and straightforward hack of adding a faux button placket to the Ogden Cami last time I decided to get a little bit more creative and change the neckline this time. This was actually possibly even more simple than the button placket to do but makes more of a dramatic difference! The high square neckline on camisoles seems to be quite popular in RTW at the moment and gives off a bit of a nineties vibe. I think it is quite an elegant shape, especially paired with the slightly flared bodice shape of the Ogden. There are a few camisole patterns around you can use to achieve this but when you've got a cami pattern you love, why not adapt it slightly for the required effect?

To achieve this look I simply put paper behind the back and front pattern pieces and drew a straight line between the highest points of the neckline where the straps meet the body. Make sure to do the same to your facing pieces too. When it came to sewing it was even quicker than usual as you've eliminated part of the stay stitching and attaching the straps is slightly less fiddly. You do want to take care that they sit right at the outermost edge of the neckline though so you don't end up with a weird step. The edge of the armhole should continue smoothly up along the edge of the strap. Also make sure to under stitch across the straight neckline to help create a sharp finish.

The fabric I used was a couple of remnants of Atelier Brunette viscose crepe in the off white colour which I picked up from Guthrie & Ghani at the Knitting & Stitching Show in the spring. They were two tiny pieces at about half and metre and a quarter of a metre of the full width! I'd first encountered this beautiful fabric in the Atelier Brunette store in Paris when I visited in February and fell in love with it a little bit. It is soft, lightweight and diaphanous without being sheer and has a gorgeous sheen to that slightly textured right side, so lovely it almost glows. It is gorgeous to work with, apart from being a little shifty as most viscose is, and even nicer to wear with that lovely cool feeling against the skin. It isn't particularly cheap at around £17.50/m but certainly worth it for the quality. The only thing that stopped me buying it in Paris was being overwhelmed by the choice of colours, which you can see in all their glory here.

I stood at the G&G stand for ages trying to work out if I could squeeze the main pieces onto the half metre and the facing on to a quarter! In the end I couldn't bear to leave the fabric behind at half price. When it came to cutting out the pieces I realised the answer to my dilemma was 'not quite' and I had to shorten the main pieces slightly to fit. I actually completely adore this length though and may shorten all future camis to match! Its still long enough to tuck into my high waisted skirts and trousers but sits really nicely over a pair of mid-rise jeans too. I'm wearing it here with my Mia Jeans from the Sew Over It City Break eBook.

The fabric is a great match for the pattern and makes for a gorgeous soft cami. A totally different feel to the one I made up in cotton lawn. The only thing I don't like about the fabric is that in this light colour it is not 100% opaque, which isn't a problem for a relaxed top but it does mean that you can see the edge of the facing through it where two layers of the fabric give a denser colour and then that finishes. It isn't so bad in pictures but in real life it really bothers me and so this top has unfortunately not had a lot of wear. I don't think you'd have this problem with the darker colours though and I'm definitely considering investing in some more for some breezy bohemian tops and dresses.

I think this hack needs a bit of perfecting but its certainly wearable as it is. To get the neckline sitting where I wanted it to I shortened the straps a little more than I do usually and this has made it a tad snug under the arm holes and possibly reduced the overall length of the top a little more. The armhole situation is bearable and doesn't look bad (although is slightly more obvious across the back) but I would like to make another to rectify the issue. To do this I think I will add a bit of height to the neckline rather than dropping the armholes as this will probably be more straightforward. An extra 3/4" should do it and to keep the slightly cropped effect I'll have to take the same off the hem. When making another I'd like to either use a more opaque fabric or something very fine to change the facing into a full lining and avoid the line of the facing hem across the bust.

Each Ogden Cami I make feels so different to the others and mainly because of variety in fabric choice rather than hacking but I'm delighted to be able to push my use of this pattern a little further. If you're new to pattern hacking then this is a great pattern to start with as the simple shape and clean lines provide a good blank canvas with little in the way of darts and additional seam lines to complicate things. I don't think I'm done with this one yet! I'm thinking straps that tie on top of the shoulder for the next version. Have you got any other ideas?