October Indie Pattern Update!

Happy Halloween everyone! The end of October already. The indie sewing community has certainly been embracing the changing season; this month's update includes more new pattern releases than ever before! I've been eagerly eyeing up the new designs for my winter wardrobe and my travel sewing plans which I discussed here on the blog last week. The colder weather has hit London and it is the perfect time to stay indoors, stay cosy and spend some quality time with your sewing machine!

New Patterns

• Thread Theory released two patterns for men's jeans! The Fulford Jeans have a classic regular cut and straight leg with a fairly high rise and the Quadra Jeans have a more modern slim fit with a slightly tapered leg and have a moderately low rise. If you're struggling to decide which is the right pattern for you they wrote a very handy post about the differences between the two patterns to help you choose.
• New from Seamwork are the Dani Pinafore and Tacara Dress. I fell in love with the clean lines and deep v-neck of Dani and sewed one up straight away. It is exactly what my winter wardrobe needs layered over merino Nikko tops. Tacara would be great in merino jersey, the drape would suit the cocoon shape and fitted drop sleeves.
• To celebrate New York Comic Con and halloween this month Mood released a couple of new cosplay patterns. The Helios is their version of a star-lord jacket to be made in faux leather or twill and Galatea is a ladies style designed for stretch fabrics which looks amazing made up in their shiny performance spandex. The seventies vibes of the Cherry Jumpsuit are definitely tempting me. They also released the Aspen Ensemble, Ash Pants, Alder Top, Blackthorn Coat, Dogwood Ensemble, Elm Jacket and Hazel Coat.
• The Carlsson Sweater is new from Style Arc. I love the style lines of this. It has an extended shoulder line and rounded yoke as well as an angled hip band and diagonal seams. You can buy it in a discounted bundle with their popular Joni Track Pant. They also released the Venice Knit Dress which has a cocoon shape, angled seams and slit pockets. Their new freebie of the month with any purchase was the Iris Woven Dress; a simple sleeveless shift dress with a slight cocoon shape and patch pockets.
• The new collection of two patterns from Deer and Doe is a knock out! I adore the drama of the maxi length variation of the Magnolia Dress combined with plunging neckline and big sleeves. It also comes with a variation much more wearable on a day to day basis. The origami welt pockets on the Opium Coat are such a lovely detail on this beautiful swing style. 
• Ensemble Patterns and Chalk & Notch have worked together with their latest releases, the Parasol Jumpsuit & Trousers and the Orchid Midi Dress. Elements of both patterns can be mix and matched together and you can buy them together as a bundle. I love the feature pockets on the thigh of the trousers and wrap front of the dress and am excited to see this kind of collaboration between pattern designers.
• Making Patterns Fly released the Mangas Dress which is a mini tunic style designed to be made in knits. As well as large patch pockets the main feature of this design is the dropped sleeves which are extra long to be worn ruched up the arm.
• New from Coralie Bijasson at C'est Moi Le Patron is the Eliane T-Shirt and Dress. This knit design features a twist front and deep v-neckline and cap be sewn with or without sleeves.
• The Heron Culottes are the latest release from Afternoon Patterns. These are bang on trend with their high waist and wide leg. The shape is created by inverted box pleats a the waist and they have an invisible zip and button closure on the side.
• Kommatia Patterns released the Beatnik Dress. A bodycon stretch style, this features a mock turtleneck and cap sleeves and looks great on all the testers. I think it could be particular good in a classic black.
• CocoWawa Crafts released the ideal snuggly pattern to make as we head towards winter in the northern hemisphere. The Pumpkin Cardigan and Cardi Dress has a simple scoop neckline of two depths, two lengths, two pocket styles and a flat band or hem ruffle to choose from as well as the option to make sleeveless. 
• The Blouse is the latest addition to the The Avid Seamstress collection of classic and timeless designs. It has a loose fit, elegant slim stand collar and three quarter length sleeves with elasticated cuffs giving shape. A great choice for anyone looking to make their first blouse.
• Hot Patterns released two new patterns this month. The loose fitting cocoon shape of Beatnick Sweatshirt created by darts at the hemline combined with the wide funnel neck has a real retro feel. It would look great combined with the slim fit of the new City Slicker Pull-On Pants. These come with the option to add stirrups too. 
• Patrons les BG released The Bold. A classic underwear set for men, the patterns consists of a tank style vest and stretch trunks. A wardrobe essential and perhaps a great gift to make if you are starting to think about festive sewing. I had the pleasure of meeting them at the Knitting & Stitching Show and was really impressed by their patterns!
• The Hayden Sleeveless Blazer Dress is new from Fabrics Store. A great little wrap style with lapel detail this would be great for layering. As well as worn closed as a dress it could be left to hang open as a vest. They also released the Celine Pull On Jumpsuit which also features a wrap front, Jules Pleated Shorts and Aiko Ombre Maxi Dress which is designed to be made in two tones of linen. Love the front pockets on this. They post a handy tutorial for each of their patterns which is great for a bit of extra guidance.
• There's a new baby arriving in my family soon and I'm excited about the excuse to sew some tiny clothes! I'm taken with the new Poppy & Jazz patterns from Lisa Comfort. The Pansy Dress and Clover Reversible Trousers are both quick to make a super practical. I love that this new release also includes a dog coat!
• The new super basic Tank Top pattern from Halfmoon Atelier is free to download for newsletter subscribers! With a simple scoop neck and body skimming fit this is a handmade wardrobe staple and a great stash buster too. 
• DG Patterns released the Rebecca Top & Dress which is a fit and flare style knit design. I love the cowl neck and the pattern also offers two sleeve lengths to choose from.
• New from Elbe Textiles are the Fremantle Pants which are a unisex design with subtle shaping from rear darts and a tapered leg. They have front and back pockets and an elasticated waist with drawstring. They look great made up in natural fibres such as linen and cotton.
• The Screwdriver Top is the latest release from Our Lady Of Leisure. I love the drama of the sleeves with those origami folds and big bow which fastens the wrap bodice. Looking forward to the challenge of sewing this one up!  
• Helen's Closet released the Elliot Sweater & Tee which has two sweater views (one with a cropped length and one with a high-low split hem) and a classic t-shirt view. Perfect for the changing season and quick to make with those raglan sleeves.
• Tessuti released the Evie Bias Skirt. I could definitely do with one of these in my wardrobe. I love the chic midi length style in satin and can see it layered with fluffy jumpers, tights and boots in winter. I've not sewn much on the bias so would love to use Tessuti's tips to make this.
• The Citrus Leggings are new from Tuesday Stitches and come with the option to sew with a flat side panel or gathered detail along either the side seam or front and back seams from the knee down to the ankle. All the seam lines would make them great for colour blocking too.
• Athina Kakou launched two new patterns in October. The Rachel Jumpsuit & Trousers has a slight 'modern overalls feel and those clean lines and wide legs which I am so drawn to at the moment. The Nikki Cardigan has two lengths, a wrap front and optional self fabric belt with loops.
• New from Merchant & Mills are the TN31 Parka and The Costermonger which is a market tote bag turned backpack with leather straps. The coat is a relaxed interpretation of the classic fish tail parka with a drawstring waist and ribbed bomber style collar which I love. It can be made lined or unlined and is a perfect match for their oilskin and outdoor fabrics. 
• Hey June Handmade released the Kendrick Overalls. I love these! The two views provide the option to make either with a high waisted, wide leg cropped trouser or high waisted fitted skirt. The bodice pieces are like super wide straps complete with bust darts for shaping.
• The new Babydoll Dress pattern from Simple Sew is currently available exclusively with this issue of Sew Now Magazine. It has a sixties vibe with a button back and gentle bell shaped sleeves.
• The Mystic Bra is the latest release from Orange Lingerie. This is a smooth, seamless t-shirt bra style with foam cups and underwire. The frameless design can be adapted to fasten in front. If you enjoy sewing lingerie this is a must have style for your wardrobe!
• Another bra pattern released this month is the Amethyst from Pin Up Girls at Bra Maker's Supply. It has foam cups and great lift and uses lace edging along the cups and band for a professional look.
• October's PDF pattern release from Sew Over It is the Jesse Coatigan. An unlined jacket with shawl collar, dropped shoulder and deep pockets this would be great made up in either a snuggly knit or wool woven. They also released their popular Coco Jacket PDF as a paper pattern. Inspired by the classic Chanel boucle tweed jacket this cropped style features princess seams, a two piece sleeve, full lining and optional braiding. A true timeless garment.
• New from Tilly & The Buttons are the Nora Top and Ness Skirt. Nora is a quick and easy modern take on the sweater with high neck or neck band and boxy shape with dropped shoulders. Ness is a classic straight fly front skirt with shaped waistband and curved back yoke. I particularly like the below knee version with front hem split.
• Sew Style Me released the Nikki Blazer, a collarless tailored style. I love the shaping of this with the princess seams, neat nipped in waist and pointed peplum. A really clever, slimming design.
• The new Merlo Field Tee from Sew House Seven has caught my eye as a great wearable basic with interesting details. I'd love to make it up in two colours of merino to layer under dungarees and pinafores in the colder months.
• Republique du Chiffon launched an absolutely gorgeous collection of six designs for the new season. My personal favourites are the Leonard Coat and the Debbie Dress made up in velvet for festive parties just like the sample. It has that effortlessly which French vibe to it. I'm also quite taken with the unusual Yeta Blouson Jacket which combines a classic notched collar with ribbed cuffs and hem. The collection also includes the Zelie Blouse, Jocelyne Dress and Louis Trousers. Currently avaiable in French only but English versions are coming very soon.
• The Thrifty Stitcher released her third print pattern for Sewing Quarter in the form of the Melissa Breton Tee. This is a wonderful basic to have multiple of in your wardrobe and would be particularly made up in a think knit with classic stripe. blog series of hacks and tips 
• Itch to Stitch released the Montana Shirt. If you're looking for a classic button up women's shirt to make this looks like a great pattern. It features flat felled seams, tower sleeve plackets and a yoke constructed with the burrito method for a professional finish. I love the option to make it with a tie front too!
• New from Sew Swimmingly is the Veronica Panty pattern which is the first in their SewSexy collection of lingerie. They are a low rise knicker with a cheeky fit and cut out detail at the rear of the waistline.
• Rosy Pena launched a new collection of seven designs! The FW18 Classic Collection consists of the Sarah Cami/Slip (for soft knit fabrics), the Mariah Blouse/Dress (with beautiful trumpet sleeves), the Juanita Jumpsuit (palazzo style), Olga Cardigan (with classic v-neck), Krystal Coat/Duster (with waterfall front), Gina Culotte (great in structured or drapey fabrics) and the Rosalinda Top/Dress (with mock roll-neck & deep armholes). My favourite of these is Juanita; I need a wrap style jumpsuit in my wardrobe pronto!
• The Eli Monster released the Danser Skirt which is a quick to make half circle skirt. It has a slim 1" waistband and fastens with a zip.
• New from DG Patterns is the Gilliane Cardigan and Raven Pyjamas Set. The cardigan is a loose fitting style with open front in two lengths with optional patch pockets. The pyjamas have multiple options for sleeve length, leg length and also the option to sew as a shirtdress style nightie. They also released the Rebecca Top and Dress which is a fit and flare knit style with cowl neckline.
• I missed this last month but The School of Making from Alabama Chanin have been releasing a number of their designs as stand alone paper patterns. My highlights include the Ezra Coat, the Wrap Dress, Factory Dress and Car Coat but make sure to check out the full range here.
• Alina Sewing & Design Co. released the Fulton Sweater Blazer which is an open front knit jacket in two lengths with a slim but not tailored fit. A great layering piece. My favourite elements of the design are the contemporary twist on a notched collar and the contrast facing inside the cuffs which is exposed when sleeves are rolled up.
• New from Swim Style is the Reversible String Bikini pattern. This is a classic bikini with halter neck tie and side ties on the briefs. Definitely a contender for my holiday wardrobe, technically two bikinis in one!
• iKatee Couture are a French company who make gorgeous sewing patterns for children and have just launched their first designs for women! Ida and Louise Mum are the grown up versions of two of their popular girls blouse designs. Both feature sweet ruffle and gathering details. The PDFs are available now with paper soon to follow.
• Wardrobe By Me added two new designs to their menswear collection. There's a classic Men's Tank Top with bound neckline and armholes and stretch Men's Boxer Briefs which can be made with either a double front lined crotch or fly crotch.

Pattern updates and expansions

• Tessuti have updated their incredibly popular Mandy Boat Tee to include a range of four sizes from XXS-XXL! They've also added the option fo making with three quarter length or full length sleeves and have improved the neckline shape. And it is still free to download! 
• Named released an add on for the Anni Building Block pattern they launched earlier this year. The original pattern already included three different bottom options and endless design combinations but now you can download the Anni Wrap Skirt for even more variety.
• True Bias re-released the Emerson Pant and Short pattern. It is now available in both printed and PDF format and has a new high rise option in addition to the original mid-rise.
• The Wardrobe By Me Komi Kimono Jacket has been updated to include more style options and an extended size range. 

Sew-alongs, Tutorials and Online Courses

• Also as part of her new Pattern of the Month feature Megan Nielsen has been posting a series of tutorials for her Karri Dress which includes tips for how to incorporate your fabric scraps into the garment and also add piping.
• Thread Theory are running a men's jeans sew-along which covers all the essential steps to sewing a classic pair of jeans and applies to both of their new jeans patterns.
• The Dreamstress has been running a sew-along for the Scroop Patterns Otari Hoodie. The posts guide you in choosing your fabric right through to the finishing details and will include some pattern hacks too.
• The Thrifty Stitcher will be posting a blog series of hacks and tips for making the most out of her new Breton Tee pattern. Head on over to her blog to check it out.
• The Sewing Workshop are running a sew-along on their blog for their recently released Picasso Top & Pants. The posts cover sewing up both elements of the outfit and include helpful tips on sewing that lovely pieced front of the top accurately. 

Upcoming!

• Melissa from Fehr Trade is currently testing her next activewear pattern.
• Next up in the new SewSexy line from Sew Swimmingly is the Veronica Bralette following on from the panty pattern which was recently released. I love the unusual neckline on this design.
• I've just made the Persephone Pants and am about as in love with them as the rest of the sewing community seem to be so I am excited to see that Anna Allen is currently working on new patterns for slim leg pants and jeans.
• Pipe Dream Patterns are currently testing the Tara Basics and Anya Basics patterns. Each a collection of knit styles with a variety of necklines, sleeves, bodies, dresses and tops between them.
• Elbe Textiles is working on a pattern for a unisex, oversized shirt with dropped shoulder.
• Emily from In The Folds is currently testing her next two patterns. They are both jackets and you can find a bit more information about them on her blog. They will be released alongside another pattern which was tested earlier this year.
• Ann Normandy is set to release The Shorts sewing pattern soon.
• You Made My Day Patterns are working on a funnel neck coat pattern just in time for the onset of the cold weather. A sneaky peak on Instagram shows a cute little pocket detail.
• The Sorrel Dress will be the next release from Jennifer Lauren Handmade and should be with us later this week. She also hinted at paper patterns coming soon too! 
• Ready To Sew have a new collection coming soon.
• Alice & Co Patterns are working on their next design - the Intrepid Boiler-suit. There have been some great tester versions popping up on Instagram!

Other Exciting News!

• Unfortunately Smyly Magazine is no more but the good news is the patterns are still available as part of Athina Kakou's range. Currently available as PDF downloads are Sheona, Abi, Lisa, and Samantha.

And to finish up, here's your monthly dose of indie sewing inspiration! Happy sewing!

• Jasika's striped linen In The Folds Peppermint Jumpsuit hacked to have a wrap front.
• I love the longer length of Karen's second Myosotis Dress. Florals on dark viscose bases are perfect for this time of year.
• Boots & Cats Katryna twist dress - mash up of Sew Easy In A Twist pattern and Plantain Tee
• Chloe's Ulysses Trench is astonishing! She used both sides of an Atelier Brunette jacquard to create this amazing shimmering creation.
• Zoe's Burnside Bibs are possibly my favourite so far. I've been resisting making myself a pair as I feel like my wardrobe has enough overalls but when I saw these in the flesh at the Fabric Godmother open day last month I was powerless to resist!

Striped MIY Collection T-Shirt from Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking

I feel like I've been on the hunt for my ideal t-shirt pattern for the entire time I've been sewing and it is a subject I've returned to a couple of times here on the blog. It may seem like a simple garment but finding the right pairing of fabric and pattern and getting the cut and fit just so for your body shape can be really tricky. I hadn't been entirely satisfied with any of my handmade tees before and find myself falling back on old RTW favourites which are looking quite worn now. That is until I discovered this MIY Collection pattern and hit upon success.

Wendy Ward has recently released some of the designs from her first book 'The Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking' as stand alone PDF patterns. When she offered one to me to try I snapped up the T-Shirt pattern as I thought it was about time I tried a tee from a different designer. This is a less structured style than those I have sewn before and actually than in my wardrobe. To be honest I thought I would prefer a more fitted style with a deeper neckline but I gave it a whirl and think I have accidentally discovered just what I was looking for!

I went a little bit nuts for this striking striped jersey when I spotted it on the Girl Charlee Instagram months ago and they very kindly sent me a length to play with. I adore the seventies feel of the vivid colours and retro stripe design. It has taken me a shamefully long time to get around to finding the right pattern for it and sewing it up. But it has been worth the wait as this simple style really showcases the stripe and beautiful colours. It is lightweight but opaque and the rayon content gives it a lovely drape. I've found with some fine jerseys that they have a weird slightly grainy texture and are easy to stretch out of shape permanently but this has a gorgeously smooth soft hand and a bouncy stretch. Perfect for a little tee.

The sizing on this pattern (and I think with the other patterns from the book) is quite generic with just three sizes covering busts from 31.5" to 40". I absolutely don't think there needs to be more detailed sizing on a knit style like this. My bust and waist measurements actually fell just between the small and medium sizes but I opted to cut the small based on the finished measurements. I figured 2" of ease around the bust on a t-shirt, even that has a relaxed fit, would be plenty. I'm very happy with the fit of this, it has the perfect amount of ease and length for me. I am sometimes concerned about fine, very stretchy knits like this clinging and showing all the lumps and bumps but this skims the body really nicely. I am getting a couple of drag lines around the bust but I think that's more to do with the way this fabric hangs on the body than anything being too small.

It has a similar amount of ease around the body to the Pattern Fantastique Equinox which is the last t-shirt pattern I made. But I feel like my Equinox tees shift around on the body in a weird way throughout the day so I'm constantly fiddling with them. Not the case with this one. I prefer the cut of this, particularly the bateau neckline. It is perhaps a fraction wide on me as a hint of bra strap peaks out. I have quite small shoulders so may rectify this next time by taking a small wedge out of the centre front of the pattern piece. Here's a photo with hair up so you can really see that lovely neckline shape!

Of course when working with knit fabrics, even when using exactly the same pattern, in exactly the same size with the same construction techniques the result can be completely different in one fabric to another. I adore this pattern in a lightweight drapey knit like this but I'm not sure I'd like it in a more structured knit. It would be quite boxy and that isn't a particularly flattering or comfortable shape on my body type. I've certainly noticed that I wear my lightweight grey Equinox Tee a lot more than the heavier white cotton jersey version.

I was initially unsure about the lack of neckband; the neckline is simply turned back and stitched (I did this with a twin needle). I've come to quite enjoy sewing neckbands now I've done quite a few a love that finish, particularly a nice skinny one. However simply hemming this edge is much better for the bateau shape as it would be difficult to set a band into that tight corner on each shoulder without distorting the shape. This finish also suits the relaxed style of the tee.

My favourite thing about this design is the sleeve. I've always been a fan of a small cap proportional on me and this one sits really well. Even in a fine knit like this it holds its shape well as the entire sleeve piece is doubled back on itself rather than hemmed. It makes for a lovely clean finish and a much better defined edge in a lightweight fabric.

A big part of making this top was of course the stripe matching, made even more complicated by the fact that this fabric was very shifty to cut out and work with! What did make the job a little easier is that you're only contending with two pattern pieces. One for the front and back bodice and one for the sleeves! I cut the front by cutting one half, drawing onto the pattern piece where the stripes were then flipping the pattern piece along the centre line to cut the other half. I used the stripes drawn on the pattern to line up the piece when cutting the back. The sleeves I didn't attempt to match with the body in any way but made sure to cut two that matched. I used lots of pins when assembling and am delighted with how that turned out.

I thought the instructions were great, with nice clear illustrations. They're laid out slightly differently to what many of us may be used to and each point is fairly brief but there is a tonne of information about sewing with knits and relevant techniques included before you even get to the step by step method. I think a lot of the information has probably come from the book the pattern originated from which is a real bonus. I particularly enjoyed the additional instructions for hacking your pattern to do some colour blocking by adding a vertical c/front or back seam or alternatively a diagonal or horizontal seam. A great way to push beginners on to get creative with their sewing.

I've taken the photos with the tee untucked over skinny jeans so you can see the cut of the whole thing but my favourite way to wear it at the moment is tucked into high waisted trousers like these; really making the most of that seventies vibe. It is also great for layering under overalls/dungarees. These trousers are my new Persephone pants...blog post on these coming soon!

I think my wardrobe could probably do with some slightly more fitted tees and different necklines but this is certainly a winner in the relaxed style category. I think a number of these made up in lightweight viscose or linen jerseys are going to be great in South Africa and the Philippines; those fabrics will feel cool against the skin and the loose fit won't cling in the heat.

Planning a Handmade Travel Wardrobe

I've got two separate sewing queues going on at the moment. As well as the change in weather inspiring new sewing plans I've been thinking about warmer climates as I'm heading to South Africa and the Philippines in January and February! I'm incredibly excited about it as it is the kind of trip I've wanted to do for a long time. My boyfriend and I will be in South Africa for a month and are going to be travelling around and spending a fair bit of time on safari in Krueger National Park so practical clothing is key. We are then heading to the Philippines for two weeks for a wedding so although warm weather clothing is still appropriate there will be a lot of beach time and party time too so this is going to require a slightly different wardrobe. I will have two days back in the UK between trips to do bit of a wardrobe swap!

I hit briefly on the topic of slow sewing in my last post and am trying to put this into practice with my travel wardrobe too. I don't want to take vast quantities of clothing with me so I've been giving what garments, patterns and fabrics will be really useful some serious thought. I've tried to make use of fabrics in my stash as much as possible and am pleased to say it should be vastly depleted by the time I've made all this! Of course there are garments I've already made that will certainly be coming with me; my short Sallie Jumpsuit (heroine of my warm weather wardrobe!), checked linen Flint Shorts and burnt orange Erin Skirt to name just a few. I don't think I'm quite there yet with the plan but this is my starting point. I'd really love your suggestions on what other garments and patterns you think would be good to include.

For South Africa I'm thinking about comfortable, practical clothing in natural fibres to keep me cool in the heat. Muted tones of lighter colours and some designs which provide me with coverage from the sun and mosquitos. I'll be taking some of these things along to the Philippines too but would like to add in some more vibrant colours, more beachwear and some more dressed up outfits for the evening and wedding.

First up The Fabric Store added this amazing big cat cotton shirting to their online selection a few weeks back and I pounced on it straight away! I'm not usually one for novelty print but wearing little big cats whilst looking for big cats on safari? I'm in! I'm going to use it to make a shirtdress using Hot Patterns 1237. I had a rummage through their designs on the Sew Box stand at the Knitting & Stitching Show and was really impressed by the quality and detail in the styles. The fabric is nice and light and breathable so I'm going to make it with long sleeves for coverage. I'm looking forward to sewing this one up.

There's a few Halfmoon Atelier designs I've got my eye on, the first of which is the Tofo Jumpsuit. I think it will be great to throw on on really hot days when I need to get about easily and will be great over swimwear. I've got a length of this beautiful ikat from The Fabric Store to make it in.

A project that I didn't get around to making this summer but definitely want to get done before holiday is a Tessuti Bondi Dress in this pine green linen I've had stashed away. The colour is a little richer in reality than the photo. This is such a great easy to wear design that I think will be really comfortable in linen and I've been keen to try out another Tessuti pattern since I made my Oslo coat.

I'd like to make a couple of pairs of shorts and have selected some paprika linen from my stash (its the heavyweight linen from The Fabric Store) and some denim left over from my Cleo Pinafore for these. I was thinking about the shorts variation of either the Lander or Persephone Pants but a pattern soon to be released has since caught my attention so I'll have to keep that pattern choice secret for now!

To go with the shorts and some of my existing skirts and linen trousers I want to work on my collection of handmade t-shirts. I'm still on a quest to find my ultimate t-shirt/casual top patterns and would like to use designs which have a bit of interest to them. At the moment the contenders are the MIY Collection t-shirt pattern, Common Stitch Sparrow Tee, Named Selja Knot Tee and Style Arc Como Top. I also think a couple of basic tanks using the pattern just released by Halfmoon Atelier could be useful. Fabric wise I loved the milano viscose jersey from Fabric Godmother when I visited their open day last month and they have it in some lovely warm, neutral colours. I prefer my tees to have a little drape and viscose will be lovely and cool in the heat.

For coverage I'd love to make some kind of lightweight kimono to throw on over anything. I'd love your pattern suggestions for this! I'd like it to work thrown over shorts and tees on safari but also over bikinis on the beach. I've been looking at this zero-waste tutorial from Elbe Textiles but think maybe I want something a little more detailed than that. Perhaps something that can wrap and become a dress? Fabric-wise I'm also undecided but am quite drawn to this lovely printed double georgette.

Of course I'm going to require an assortment of swimwear and I'm excited about this as there have been so many great swim patterns being released lately. I've got a Halfmoon Atelier Wells Bay Bikini cut out but haven't decided on which other patterns to use yet. I've been looking at designs from Swim Style and Sew Swimmingly and considering the Vernazza Two Piece from Friday Pattern Company and the Greenstyle Creations North Shore Swimsuit. I've got a little stash of Liberty swim fabric squirrelled away and ready to turn into something special.

This amazing fabric I picked up in Misan West on Goldhawk Road. Its actually a cotton but has the drape and smooth hand of a silk or viscose. Amazing! I'm just going to hem it and possibly shape it a little to use as a sarong.

For the wedding I'm torn between making a Named Anni Jumpsuit (the variation with the short sleeves, trousers and cut out neckline) in one of these beautiful plain double viscose crepes from Fabrics Galore or a Closet Case Patterns Amy Jumpsuit in a dramatic print. I think both would be lovely and cool and just the right amount of dressed up for a tropical wedding. Perhaps I should make both and the other can be worn as evening wear?!

I've had a small piece of this amazing vibrant jacquard in my stash forever and am thinking to turn it into either a pencil skirt or little pair of dressy shorts to wear on a night out in the Philippines, what do you think?

I've been looking at more designs from Elbe Textiles and Common Stitch but can't settle on any further additions yet. Perhaps I should get on with this lot and see how much time I have left! Do you guys have any suggestions?

Plaid Linen/Cotton Dani Dress

I finished this dress just yesterday and couldn't wait to share it with you all! This is a project which started with the fabric which is unusual for me as I don't tend to buy fabric without a specific project in mind. But I couldn't resist the texture and colouring of this linen/cotton plaid from The Fabric Store last time I ordered! They have had some beautiful checks and stripes in stock recently. When I chose it I actually had in mind a relaxed pair of overalls or a jumpsuit for winter layering like this beauty from Common Stitch but I was hesitant about how confident I would feel wearing that much plaid! Then the Dani Dress was released with this month's issue of Seamwork Magazine and I knew there was a place for that in my wardrobe!

I've actually had some real sewing time over the last couple of weeks and despite the urge to rush through the queue of ideas that has been building up in my brain over the last few months I've tried to take #slowfashionoctober to heart, make considered choices and take my time over each project to ensure it turns out just the way I want it. The sustainability of my sewing and whether I really need to be sewing more and MORE clothes has been on my mind a lot recently. I sew mainly for the pleasure of sewing rather than the garment at the end of it and don't want to spend any less time doing it as I get so much out of it. But I think what I can do is put more thought and time into garments and the techniques I use to whittle out those projects which I won't end up wearing as much because they didn't turn out quite the way I hoped.

Anyway, I could write a whole post about that and may do in future, but my point is that on this project I did slow down and introduce some more time consuming techniques and details and not only am I delighted with the result but I feel like I really got back to enjoying the process of making something. I've been so busy this year that I think when I have sewn I've almost rushed through with my mind on what the next project is going to be! It was lovely to be absorbed in the present moment for a change.

When I ordered the fabric I thought it would be fun to try out some of The Fabric Store's pre-made bias binding which they offer in linen and selected Liberty prints, so ordered some in navy to match.  (I also took advantage of their thread matching service for the merino which was fantastic!) I was thinking I could use the bias binding to edge overall straps or pockets but when I changed my plan to the dress I rethought. I used it to add flat piping along the neckline and armholes and omitted the lining of the dress so I could use the bias to finish the raw edges of the facings and pocket bags. I love how both of these things have turned out, I almost want to wear the dress inside out! The dark piped edge gives definition to that lovely deep neckline and lifts the whole dress. It has been a while since I have lavished so much attention and time on my interior finish but it is so worthwhile. I think having an overlocker has made me lazy!

I think I've particularly shied away from a bound finish as it can be so time consuming and fiddly. But not having to make the binding myself was so enjoyable. I'll definitely be ordering more for future projects. It was a dream to work with as the pressed edges are so crisp and easy to follow. To use the binding for piping and reduce bulk in the seam, I pressed the two outside folds of the binding open so I just had a long strip pressed in half along the length. As the binding is 3/4" like this and I was using a 5/8" seam allowance I could line up the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the neckline/armhole and be left with a nice and even 1/8" of piping showing.

The other thing that really forced me to slow down with this dress was attempting to pattern match that plaid. It was a particularly tricky one to match as it is not symmetrical. It is more like a repeat pattern of squares with various lines running through them. I concentrated on getting the darker lines in the check to run right the way down the dress and for the pattern to match across the bodice and am delighted with how this has turned out. It isn't perfect in a few places but is hard to spot! The one place it was a bit of a disaster is down one of the skirt seams which I am frustrated by. I got impatient and cut those pieces on the fold instead of tracing them out and cutting flat. At the beginning of the project I don't think I had yet found my slow sewing groove!

The crisp linen/cotton blend has a slightly slub and lovely crisp hand which works well to show off the shape and clean lines of this dress but it does rumple the second I move in it! I really like the subtlety and depth of the check created by the yarn dyed weave and the rusty brown colour running through it. In the same order as this plaid was a piece of paprika merino and when they arrived folded up next to each other I loved the way the merino picked out this rusty stripe. I decided to make a top to layer under the dress out of the merino and this is my first True Bias Nikko Top with sleeves. I love it possibly even more than the sleeveless version and have also made one in black as they are going to be so great for layering underneath overalls and dresses through the colder months. I cut the size 4 of this, grading out to a 6 at the hips and am happy with the fit especially through the shoulder. I could possibly do with a little less length in the sleeve but like to be cosy!

As much as I am delighted with the finished dress I didn't think all that much of the instructions and some of the construction methods. At some stages the illustrations didn't match what the garment looked like in front of you and just served to confuse matters rather than clarify what you were doing. The instructions and illustrations for the pockets I found quite confusing in particular. They're put together in a different way to how I have sewn side seam pockets before but once I figured it out I did really like the technique and the fact that the bags are sewn into the waist seam so they stay nice and flat inside the skirt.

The pocket openings are quite small and neat but the bags are nice and roomy which is just what I like! The pattern instructs you to press the skirt side seams open but I chose to press them closed as it created a smoother finish on the outside where the pocket bags meet the side seam. My seam allowances are bulkier than they would usually be because of the bound edges. There is no fastening to contend with as this slips straight on over the head. The trickiest part of the construction is the neckline and getting that point nice and sharp, I made this even harder for myself by including the piping! I would recommend finishing your seam allowances before sewing the seams (with the exception of the skirt side seams and waistband as it makes it easier to access everything. I sewed everything by machine with the exception of tacking down the facings by hand at the shoulders, side seams and centre front to help everything lay flat. The under stitching and a good press really helps with this anyway.

This style took me a bit of wearing around the house to get used to as it has a lot of ease and I'm used to more fitted dress styles, particularly around the waist. But now I'm really enjoying it as a layering piece. The pattern description does suggest that it can be worn on its own but with a neckline plunging that low there's no way I'm wearing this without a top underneath! It is also quite a short style, worth bearing in mind if you're taller. I'm 5ft 3" and wouldn't want to go much shorter as not a lot of bending can be done! I was worried about fitting the neckline but I went with it and it actually sits quite well. I wouldn't be happy if it was a dress but for a pinafore it feels right. I cut the size 4 for reference.

I'm not sure I'll be making another of these, although I am slightly tempted by the pattern suggestion of faux suede! It would be interesting and fun but this design does require nice crisp pressed edges which could be a challenge with that particular fabric. Have you been doing any slow sewing this month? What are your favourite time consuming techniques?