Floral Viscose Shelby Dress

The True Bias Shelby Dress pattern has been on my radar for a while. I love the nineties grungy vibes! However, it took until last month for it to get made and find a place in my wardrobe as I had a hard time finding the fabric I wanted.

I really wanted a viscose, the drape of which would make the most of the movement in that full panelled skirt. I also wanted a print rather than a solid but didn't want anything too twee and girly as the Shelby style is already quite feminine. Viscose prints I want to wear are very hard to come by! I mulled over a fair few from Fabric Godmother (who do stock a really good selection of viscose and rayon including their own vintage inspired prints) before stumbling upon just the thing on the Guthrie & Ghani stand at The Stitch Festival. This was only at the end of February but the thought of being at a big crowded event like that such a short time ago seems so surreal to me now.

I had initially thought I wouldn't want a floral but I feel in love with the deep, rich colours of this print when I spotted it on the shelf. Unfortunately I can't see it on their website so it must have sold out. It is a viscose twill and what is particularly nice about it is the weight and opacity. I'm always a little hesitant about buying rayon or viscose online as some (particularly crepes) can be really quite flimsy and sheer. I prefer a bit of body to my viscose and think some weight really adds to the beautiful movement. It was so nice to be able to look at this one in person at the show. It a joy to sew with this fabric and it is even more delightful to wear. It is cool and smooth against the skin and swishes about dramatically. I machine washed it on a 30 degree gentle cycle and so far it hasn't faded or pilled at all and it presses really well with a medium iron. I used a microtex 70 needle to sew this and it moved through the machine without much shifting about. It is worth taking your time cutting viscose and making sure everything is laid out flat and on grain as it is easy to end up with some misshapen pattern pieces.

I cut the size 4 and it feels comfortably roomy, if perhaps just slightly too roomy across the shoulders. This might have to do with my fabric choice as viscose and rayons fabrics are quite delicate and do tend to stretch out a bit as you sew but the finished garment measurements do indicate a fair bit of ease. If making again I might size down to a 2. To prevent stretching I was careful to stay-stitch the neckline and press only with an up and down movement of my iron rather than side to side. I cut the ankle length version and as I'm quite short I envisioned taking quite a chunk off the hem to make it more of a midi length but once it was sewn up I loved it just as it was.

This dress is a bit of a fabric eater but no where near as much as the fabric requirements chart suggests. My memory is a little hazy but I believe I bought 3m of this fabric and managed to squeeze it out. I used a lightweight fusible interfacing on the facings and the buttons are some beautiful shell ones from my stash. My mum (and absolute hero nursing on the wards at the moment) bought them for me years ago and as she's a big fan of Peaky Blinders I'm sure she'll be pleased that they have been used on such an appropriately named dress.

The dress is formed of eight long panels which flare out into the skirt with a facing to finish the centre front opening. There is no waist seam but shaping is provided by a tie in the back which is inserted between the back and side back panels. When I was looking at inspiration for this dress I spotted a really interesting hack on the True Bias blog for a lace up back and opted to add that in. It was really quick and fun to do and I love the finished look - although it is quite difficult to see in a photograph when sewn in this print! You make the ties as usual but join them into one long separate tie. Then you make six little rouleau loops which you insert into the side back seams instead of the ties. I centred one of the loops on the notch marking where to attach the ties, and one above and one below this. I think this is a little lower than where Kelli placed them on her sew-along version.

There are two styles of sleeve to choose from, a classic short sleeve or a cap sleeve with a curvier bottom edge. I went for the cap sleeve but slightly wish I'd gone with the traditional version as I think it better suits that 90s grunge feel.

I added two slits by leaving the bottom of the seams between the centre front and side front panels open below the knee. I think I could have actually made these slits a little bit longer to match the length of the opening beneath the last button at the centre front. To finish the slits nicely I sewed the seam, backstitching a few times at the top of the slit for strength. I finished the seam allowances on the overlocker then pressed the seams open before topstitching around the edge of the slit to secure the seam allowances down. To add strength at the top of the slit where it might pull as I walk I added a bar tack.

As I've come to expect with True Bias patterns it was a really enjoyable sew and I had no problems whatsoever with the pattern or instructions. Everything comes together just as it should and I didn't change anything about the construction methods. The pattern comes with the option to make it into a romper and I'd love to make a short romper version for summer; cute and practical! 

Houndstooth Fibre Mood Jasmin Trousers

After my last post reviewing a project made from a sewing book I've got something else a little out of the ordinary from me today; a project from a sewing magazine! These are the Jasmin Trousers from the latest edition of Fibre Mood. Each edition of the magazine contains around 14-15 sewing and knitting patterns, some with multiple variations. When browsing through those included with issue 9 the Jasmin Trousers jumped out as effortlessly chic and wearable and also interesting to sew with that paper-bag style waist and belt.

From afar they look like a solid purple/grey colour but they are in fact made with a black, red and ivory houndstooth wool suiting from The New Craft House. My original plan was to use some pale pink linen but I was worried that the wrinkly, rumpled nature of linen wouldn't suit this paperboy style. I felt like it needed something a little sleeker with a tighter structure that would hold the shape well. Then I remembered this suiting which I've been eyeing up for ages! I was considering buying some to make some BHL Jackie Trousers (and realised that it IS in fact the fabric used for one of their samples!) and also really loved Rosie's version of the Utu Pinafore made up in it. Luckily they are still shipping during the pandemic and had some left in stock. All of the fabric at The New Craft House is deadstock (left over from collections by local designers) so you can shop knowing you're doing your bit for the planet too.

I would call this a medium weight suiting fabric as it has thickness and some body but it still retains a nice drape and movement. It is beautiful quality. I washed it in the machine on a gentle 30 degree cycle and pressed it with a medium iron and it has come out lovely and smooth. I did fin using a clapper beneficial to get nice flat seams as the fabric has a bit of bounce to it. I'd already assembled my PDF pattern and was therefore able to figure out that you need much less fabric than the instructions suggest if you are making one of the smaller sizes. I managed to get these out of 1.5m of 160cm wide fabric. I added interfacing to the top edge of the front and back pattern pieces which is folded down to make a facing along the waistline. I felt like that paperboy waist could benefit from a bit of structure to create nice crips pleats. If you need to do that too depends slightly on your fabric choice. I also interfaced one side of the belt to help that retain a nice shape and not go too floppy.

I initially got on really well with the pattern (apart from the measurements all being supplied in cm which always throws me off a little!). I really liked the layout of the instructions and preparation information. It was all very clear. I thought the instructions were thorough without being overwhelmingly so. I think they've got them just right. I particularly liked the use of colour in the illustrations to make it really clear what was the right and left front when assembling the fly and where the interfacing goes. On the pattern pieces themselves there are different shaped notches in different places which I've never seen before and is an interesting technique to avoid confusion. V-shaped notches, single notches and double notches.

The only thing I did find confusing about the pattern pieces themselves is the marking of the seam allowance, so you have a line marking the stitching line and a line marking the raw edge. Once you've got all the sizes overlaid that is a lot of lines and notches to get muddled between! I've never used pattern pieces to check the size of seam allowance, always used the instructions so this seams a little unnecessary. The markings for the tailors tacks were also a little hard to identify for the different sizes but I managed to figure it out! EDIT - I've just been informed that it is possible to print just the size you need using the layers feature of the pattern download and you can remove the extra seam allowance line too if you like. You will need to use Adobe Acrobat Reader to do this which I didn't!

 I did feel like some of the marking points referred to in the instructions were missing from the pattern pieces (in particular for the fly and on the front pieces for the pockets) and would be interested to know if anyone else found this too? EDIT - the pattern has now been amended to include the missing markings. Also on the list of supplies there is a snap but no mention of applying it in the instructions that I could see. I presumed this is for the waist above the zip as it felt like it needed something to hold it closed there.

As I discussed in my last post I haven't made many garments from books because I find tracing off patterns from the overlapping and very confusing pattern sheets very confusing! It is the same with sewing magazines. However, the beauty of Fibre Mood is that all their patterns are available to download and print off as PDFs too! I'm sure the process of assembling the PDF takes just as long if not longer than tracing but the more familiar PDF process just feels easier to me. The option to buy the PDF of the pattern is great if you don't want the full magazine and some patterns are available in paper format too!

I cut the size 10 and then took a little more out of the back darts to make the waist more of an 8. If you're going to take the waist in like this I'd be hesitant about taking in too much as the fly zip is quite short and so you might struggle to get the waist over your bum to put them on! Speaking of the fly, I found the method a little confusing as it was unfamiliar and you have the facing to deal with and the result isn't perfect but wearable. I had to use a purple zip as that was all I had and lockdown means no zip shopping for me!

Every time I've tried out a paper-bag style waist before it has felt quite bulky and unflattering but the waist of this is nice and controlled and they feel really chic. The instructions have you hand tack the pleats and darts down along the waistline after you have pressed them to one side so everything sits as it should. I didn't get on with the instructions for the pockets at all and am not particularly happy with the finishing of them. This fabric frays quite a lot which made these fiddly bits even more frustrating. I resorted to hand tacking my pocket bags in place too to get them to sit correctly when the trousers are worn. There's also a little bit of hand stitching involved in the fly and turn ups, all well worth the effort to get a beautifully finished garment. If I make these again I'll probably shorten the belt by about six inches or so and possibly take a little off the length for a more cropped look. I might also rethink some of the construction techniques and do my own thing with the pockets or omit them altogether.

There's something about this combination of red and black houndstooth and the gold d-rings paired with this style of trouser that says 1980s power dressing to me! Never thought I'd want that in my wardrobe but I love it! The d-rings I ordered from Stoff & Stil (along with some upholstery fabric of which they have a beautiful selection!) who are also still shipping as usual during the pandemic. The package took about a week to come from Denmark which I thought was pretty great. I chose to use a red thread to match the red in the houndstooth as weirdly this was the colour which blended in best.

The t-shirt I'm wearing I've never blogged about despite having sewn the pattern up multiple times now! It is the Basic InstincT from Sasha at Secondo Piano and has become my absolute go-to t-shirt pattern. It ticks so many boxes for me after years of trying out tee patterns and failing to find one I really loved. The slim but not fitted cut, crew neck and neat little short sleeves are all winners for me.

Ruby really wanted to get involved in this photoshoot haha!

The making of these trousers was not all plain sailing and there were points when I got a little frustrated at not being able to achieve the finish I would like but the end result was worth it. They are a beautifully cut pair of trousers, they fit lovely around the waist and seat and hang really nicely. I think they'd be really cute cut off into shorts. I will definitely be trying more Fibre Mood patterns, purely for the pattern cutting! In this fabric they have a slightly masculine tailoring, Katherine Hepburn vibe which I am really enjoying dressed down with a t-shirt and trainers like this. The neat fit at the waist and generous cut around the hips and legs is SO comfortable. These are going to be so useful for work when practicality and comfort are key but I also need to look professional and presentable.

Caramel Twill Kim Jumpsuit from 'Sewing Basics for Every Body'

The project I'm sharing with you today is from Wendy Ward's new book 'Sewing Basics for Every Body', published by CICO Books. It is a beautiful book of clean, modern garments packed with interesting design details. It includes 5 patterns for core basics providing 20 different garments - although with the variety of options on offer I think you could make a lot more! I think what I love most about it is that all the garments are unisex and are modelled by both men and women in the garment photos. It is so wonderful to see this kind of inclusivity and it is a refreshing way to look at garment design and sewing. Why do garments need to be gendered? Clothes are for 'Every Body' as Wendy says in the title and we are all free to make our own fashion choices and style them how we like.

TNT Patterns

I needed a little break from sewing up scrubs for the NHS (if you'd like to volunteer your time to do so too then please take a look at the For the Love of Scrubs group on Facebook to find the co-ordinator for your area and more information) so turned to my ultimate sewing palette cleanser, the Ogden Cami from True Bias. It might seem a little nuts to take a break from sewing with more sewing but I just felt like I needed to sew something that wasn't scrubs for a moment and a quick and satisfying project which I'd made multiple times before fit the bill perfectly.

As I was sewing it up I was listening to the recent Love To Sew Podcast episode about TNT patterns and it got me thinking about what other patterns I turn to again and again. Either because they are so versatile, get worn so much or are a great blank canvas for pattern hacking. I'm sure many of you like me are turning to both fabric and pattern stashes for inspiration at the moment while we can't get out and about to shop and may be working with a reduced income. So I thought I'd share these trusty pattern favourites with you in the hope that you'll share yours too and perhaps in dong so inspire me to revisit some patterns I already own.

Tops

As I've already mentioned the Ogden Cami from True Bias is a pattern I've turned to again and again. I've lost track of the number of these tops I've made. It works out great in so many different fabrics. I used leftover linen from my Cielo Top for my most recent version but I've also used rayon, silk, velvet and cotton broderie. I've also lengthened the pattern into a dress and hacked it to have a square neckline and centre front button placket. I can sew one up including cutting in about an hour and a half so whenever I need a quick boost to the sewing mojo this is an ideal candidate.

Also from True Bias, the Nikko Top and Dress is my winter wardrobe staple. It has a lovely neat, modern fit with a perfectly proportioned turtleneck and again can be sewn up in an hour or so. I've made a couple of sleeveless versions, plus a sleeveless dress but my most worn garments are the long sleeved tops sewn up in merino jersey or a ribbed cotton knit (seen below with the Evie Bias Skirt).

Another winter wardrobe staple is the Mandy Boat Tee from Tessuti. It took me a while to get around to sewing up this popular free pattern download as I've never felt quite comfortable in loose fitting tops like this. But the slim sleeves and boat neck of this perfectly balance the amount of fabric around the body and it has become a firm favourite in my wardrobe.

The Emmeline Tee from Little Tailoress is a pattern I first made years ago but have found myself sporadically returning too time and time again. My first versions were made up in solid and patterned silks but my most worn version is in baby pink rayon. I recently used this pattern as a base for the hand sewn beaded overlay of my bridesmaids dress, simply cropping it and tweaking the construction to work with the fabric. I have another version planned with buttons and loops fastening across the shoulder seam.

Trousers

The Flint Trousers from Megan Nielsen are my all time favourite trouser pattern. The first pair of these I made were in a plain black thick but soft twill and I still live in them three years later. They see me through all seasons and seem to pair so well with multiple items in my wardrobe. They are so comfortable yet I always feel put together and somewhat stylish while wearing them. The checked linen shorts I've made from this pattern (pictured above with the Ogden Cami) are a summer favourite and I also made a chambray pair of the trousers which got cut off into shorts when I spilled ink on them! I most make another pair of the trousers to replace them.

Also from Megan Nielsen (her trousers just seem to work for me!) the Dawn Jeans have become my go to jeans pattern. I love the classic high rise and all the traditional jeans details. The fit is fantastic and the instructions are just as good. Plus the pattern includes four variations of leg styles. I've made shorts and straight leg jeans so far and have a pair of cropped wide leg cut out and ready to sew. Also on the wish list are a pair in heavy coloured linen.

Jumpsuits/Dresses

The Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory kind of surprises me as an entry on this list as I think of it as less of a 'basics' pattern than some of the others. I guess the uniqueness of the design makes me think of it as something you wouldn't necessarily want to make over and over again yet I can't get enough of these in my wardrobe! My first version in striped blue cotton was hands down my most worn garment of the year last year and I recently made a sleeved version in tencel twill which has a completely different vibe. I'm currently working on one in a gorgeous burnt orange silk/linen blend and have plans to make a short version for summer.

I've made the Turia Dungarees from Pauline Alice twice and whilst I don't see myself making them again (how many pairs of dungarees do I really need in my wardrobe?!) these two get endless amounts of wear in the summer months. They are so practical and comfortable, especially made up in linen and for me they are just the right amount of relaxed.

It is interesting to me that no dress patterns really sprang to mind as TNT patterns for this post. I definitely think the dresses section of my wardrobe needs more work! My pink knit version of the Inari Tee Dress from Named Clothing is one of my favourite dresses and is very easy to wear. I think this could be a good candidate for repeat makes! The Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress and Sewaholic Lonsdale Dress are also designs I've made more than one of.

Skirts

Just the one pattern for this category as I find myself wearing trousers and jump-suits more and more often over the last couple of years. The Evie Bias Skirt from Tessuti was an absolute winner for me the first time I made it. It is chic and simple and so easy to dress up or down and carry through the season with layering. I've made one in a burgundy polkadot crepe and another in a bold floral stain back crepe so far but there will definitely be more in the future.

Layering

I found this category quite tricky as there are SO many outerwear patterns I just adore but have only made once as they are quite lengthy, fabric and notions heavy projects which you don't really need more than one of in your wardrobe. What I do need a lot of though are sweaters and cardigans!

I have worn my black merino sweat shirting version of the Toaster Sweater #2 from Sew House Seven so much it is completely falling apart. My maroon version actually did fall apart and I recently replaced it with a warm coffee coloured marl merino double knit. These are all I need sweater-wise all year round.

I've made the MIY Collection Longley Cardigan a couple of times for myself but also a couple of times for others too! This is a great pattern to make for other people as the sizes are fairly broad (I think just S-XL covering a number of dress sizes each) and you don't need to be pernickety about fit. It is a great basic but still interesting with that waterfall front. My favourite spring/summer outfit is actually a pair of Flint Trousers, with an Ogden Cami and a Longley Cardigan layered on top.

Sportswear

I haven't made a huge amount of sportwear but I absolutely adore the Sewaholic Pacific Leggings and have made at least four pairs of them now! My first pair were made over four years ago and with a few repairs are still going strong now. The waistband sits really comfortably and they suit all kind of activities. I've made the long length and the cropped but am yet to get particularly creative with the colour blocking opportunities those style lines provide...perhaps that should be next on the list!

I've really enjoyed thinking this through and mulling over pattern hacks and fabric combinations to fill gaps in my wardrobe. When a pattern works for you why make anything else?! Thanks for the inspiration Helen and Caroline...a fair few of my choices were on your lists too! Are any of my choices on your list too? I'd love to know what your TNT patterns are.